I wouldn't trust the Barloc or switchlug. They're too many individual pieces with small locking parts. Those are exactly the types Wind Gypsy was talking about being vulnerable to barrel impacts. And frankly they're completely unnecessary. I have 7 switch barrel rifles and a wall of barrels. One is an AI. The other four are traditional actions and rifles that I've adapted to the role by just cutting AI prefit style barrel flats into. Screw the barrel into the assembled rifle by hand, put a crescent wrench (or torque wrench if you want to be a Timmy Try Hard) on the flat, grip the rifle with your legs/knees and give it one oogadooga. I am 6'3" and weigh 240lbs. I have to work out for my job 5 days a week. I have found I can apply 40-50ft/lbs with a manly oogadooga. That's it. Reverse to remove the barrel. No Barloc, switchknuckle, grub screw nonsense. Just torque the barrel on. I've tested 20, 30, and 40 ft lbs. Zero difference in accuracy. The barrel doesn't know the difference between those torque weights. I've even shot it hand tight - no difference. I don't even bother with a torque wrench anymore, I just use a crescent wrench.
I have this setup on 2 x TL3'S, 2 x Origins, a Tikka T3, and a RIMX. They all behave the same. I write the zero offsets down on the outside of my gun box and dial the offset. I order custom closed cell foam inserts from mycasebuilder.com with an extra barrel channel cut. This allows me to carry a second barrel to the range and I can swap barrels in less than a minute. Not a brag; literally under 60 secs. I found the RTZ to be better than the average shooters ability to maintain the same zero from day to day, position to position. I stole this idea from a compact sniper rifle proof of concept. See the Surgeon CSR as a reference. Same deal. I'm sure they stole.it.from someone else. Everyone thinks a switch barrels rifle needs to be some complicated magic gadget. We're just torquing barrels on here. We just figured out how to do it without a vise.
