Springfield Armory 1911 DS Prodigy

#201
Charmingmander said:
As someone who has owned and shot a few 1911s over the years but not handled a 2011 I have to ask since I never see it talked about; isn't the grip insanely thick/wide compared to say a Glock? Maybe it's just how they always appear in photos/video.
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So, you can just go look and check this, if it is actually a concern.

But, your 1911, depending upon the grip panels you use can be 1.1 to 1.3 or so inches wide.

For comparison, Wilson Combats SFX9 "2011" is 1.15", their EDC X9 "2011" is noted at 1.4", but that 1.4" is at the widest point (Safeties), which is also why, at times, you may see an sfx9 listed as the same, the actual grip width is about 1.25" on the EDC which has grip panels like a 1911.

Staccato CS is noted as 1.2" and I believe the P is 1.3"

So, the grip width on a 2011 can be fat, can also be decently thin, but similar to the 1911s you've had and the different options for them, same with many guns, CZs for example, thin grip panels will obviously be narrower than if you run lok palm swell grips. Even stippling of a poly gun can have quite an affect if one desires.

The difference in 2011 vs 1911 then, because the overall grip width at the widest point is similar, is that a 2011 is fatter for more of the grip. The 1911 frame width is only .7 something for the grip, so the widest point is really only at the peak of your grip scales, it then narrows to the front and back towards that .7 territory. 2011s aren't necessarily fatter at max thickness but are thicker for more of the total 360 degrees of the grip.


Anyways, you can then of course take those numbers and compare them to your favorite poly guns, whether Glock or HK or whatever.
 
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#202
Wolf762x51 said:
Just picked up mine today. Unfortunately this one made it 50 rpunds before it became a single-shot. That being said I did go straight to the range from the shop, "dry" from the factory. Oh well, I guess well see 🤷‍♂️
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I had read about people having first time range issues before getting mine. Mostly due to the frame to slide fit being rather tight and the cerakote finish. When I got mine I lubed and then spent a evening working the slide. If you do this you will see a lot of cerakote dribble out the back of the slide with the oil as you work the parts in. Good luck
 
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#203
chillywig said:
I had read about people having first time range issues before getting mine. Mostly due to the frame to slide fit being rather tight and the cerakote finish. When I got mine I lubed and then spent a evening working the slide. If you do this you will see a lot of cerakote dribble out the back of the slide with the oil as you work the parts in. Good luck
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Thanks! Im hoping for the best.
 
#204
chillywig said:
I had read about people having first time range issues before getting mine. Mostly due to the frame to slide fit being rather tight and the cerakote finish. When I got mine I lubed and then spent a evening working the slide. If you do this you will see a lot of cerakote dribble out the back of the slide with the oil as you work the parts in. Good luck
Click to expand...
I went to the range today and again made it through a mag or two before it started not going into battery. Took it down, scrubbed and lubed everything and put it back together. Runs like a champ now.
 
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#205
chillywig said:
I had read about people having first time range issues before getting mine. Mostly due to the frame to slide fit being rather tight and the cerakote finish. When I got mine I lubed and then spent a evening working the slide. If you do this you will see a lot of cerakote dribble out the back of the slide with the oil as you work the parts in. Good luck
Click to expand...

^This right here was my experience. I’d heard plenty of reviews saying the action needed to be cycled a good bit when new.

When I picked mine up, I felt a slight grittiness when working the slide. I cleaned it, oiled the rails and then cycled and dry fired while watching tv one evening. Got a bunch of dirty(cerakote) oil dribbling out the rear of the slide. Do a couple hundred cycles, wipe clean, re oil, repeat. Mine smoothed out nicely and has run flawlessly over almost 1k rounds.

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I also bought a Bul double stack but haven’t even shot it yet. It is buttery smooth out of the box though. There’s a definite difference in fit and finish over the Springfield.

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#207
padom said:
I just picked up a new Prodigy 5". Ordered a tool less guide rod.

Trigger isn't the greatest. Feels gritty. I'll put some rounds through it and see if it smooths itself out but an EGW Ignition Kit looks to be on the shortlist
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I did the EGW internals on mine and it fixed all my issues. Watch the video Atlas Gunworks did on tuning your sear spring, that improved my trigger a lot in addition to the EGW stuff.
 
#208
Wolf762x51 said:
I did the EGW internals on mine and it fixed all my issues. Watch the video Atlas Gunworks did on tuning your sear spring, that improved my trigger a lot in addition to the EGW stuff.
Click to expand...

Yep, I watched the Atlas tuning video last night. Gonna put 200rd or so through this new gun then tune and install EGW parts.

I tore it down to clean and lube before taking it out.
 
#209
Just finished doing a complete disassemble, clean and lube. Wiped every single part down, re-lubed and put the gun back together. A lot of debris and black crud in the gun.

The slide feels a ton better. Nice and smooth now. Trigger feels much better. Not where I want it to much better than it did out of the box.
 
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#210
Seems like the Prodigy would make a great donor double stack 1911. Cheap enough you can still spend a few hundred dollars with a really good 1911 smith working it over if you want, still be under $2000, but replace various parts and get a really nice reliability/trigger job etc.
 
#211
ToddM said:
Seems like the Prodigy would make a great donor double stack 1911. Cheap enough you can still spend a few hundred dollars with a really good 1911 smith working it over if you want, still be under $2000, but replace various parts and get a really nice reliability/trigger job etc.
Click to expand...
Only to get beaten by a guy with a $1200 Shadow
 
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#212
Possibly, but I've never seen a stock Shadow, everyone runs off to Cajun/BS/CZ Custom to drop $500 in parts to swap out before they even shoot them. :ROFLMAO: I agree though you have to have a soft spot for the 1911/2011 these days to bother running one in most games or even carry.
 
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#215
I got a prodigy about two months ago. I have put about 400 rounds through it trouble free. I did clean prior to first shoot. The trigger seems good enough to me, but then I am not a 1911/2011 bobo.
 
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#216
Redlion said:
I got a prodigy about two months ago. I have put about 400 rounds through it trouble free. I did clean prior to first shoot. The trigger seems good enough to me, but then I am not a 1911/2011 bobo.
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My first 2011.. but I have multiple 1911s, a few donors with custom parts, barrels, trigger job all fit and tuned by a smith. This trigger doesn't come close to any of them..

My Springfield TRP 1911 trigger that hasn't been touched is a LOT better than this.

Either way, I really like this Prodigy and will swap parts and have some smith work done till this trigger is where I want it..no big deal.
 
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#217
padom said:
My first 2011.. but I have multiple 1911s, a few donors with custom parts, barrels, trigger job all fit and tuned by a smith. This trigger doesn't come close to any of them..

My Springfield TRP 1911 trigger that hasn't been touched is a LOT better than this.

Either way, I really like this Prodigy and will swap parts and have some smith work done till this trigger is where I want it..no big deal.
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I would like to hear your review after do some work. I have a Springfield EMP 3 that has been a great little gun. I carry it fairly often.
 
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#218
I got a 4.25 prodigy to shoot USPSA limited optics. I have changed about everything on it to turn it into exactly what I wanted. I have had and still do have custom competition 2011s but there is something to be said about building up something for yourself.

The EGW ignition kit, 17lb main spring and red dirt trigger I could have just about dropped in and not tweaked at all and have a fantastic trigger. I did have to get a dawson extended firing pin for 100% ignition. 18# main spring did the same but pushed my trigger pull up above 2lbs.
 

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#219
chillywig said:
I got a 4.25 prodigy to shoot USPSA limited optics. I have changed about everything on it to turn it into exactly what I wanted. I have had and still do have custom competition 2011s but there is something to be said about building up something for yourself.

The EGW ignition kit, 17lb main spring and red dirt trigger I could have just about dropped in and not tweaked at all and have a fantastic trigger. I did have to get a dawson extended firing pin for 100% ignition. 18# main spring did the same but pushed my trigger pull up above 2lbs.
Click to expand...

Great info.

I got the EGW ignition kit with the 19# main spring because I read of ignition issueeiwith 17# on some primers/ammo.

If the 100% fix to get an awesome trigger is the 17# main spring with a Dawson extended firing pin maybe I'll just go that route.
 
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#221
I have had. 4.25” for about a year. First 700 rounds I had 7 failures to go into battery. Each in a “dirty” pistol. Relubing put back to running. After 700-750 I polished the disconnect ramp, the feed ramp and the chamber mouth with JB. Ran another 700 problem free. At 1500 my daughter had another failure to go into battery. Like every other failure, bullet was sitting partially in the chamber. Just had to tap the rear of the slide to go into battery.

I have since ordered and have (uninstalled )the Atlas recoil spring tuner kit, main spring and firing pin spring. IMO, the ceracoat post fitting and the 9# recoil spring are the culprit to most issues, however every one of my 7 mag springs are twisted and some have (had) the follower dragging. I replaced these all with Atlas higher power mag springs and follower kits.

I’ve had no ignition or extraction issues yet. Overall. For an off the shelf 1911, it’s been a decent pistol. For someone expecting a Glock, you’re going to be disappointed, but if you go into a match with a clean and lubed pistol and clean mags it’ll run 250-300 rounds reliably. At least mine will. One failure in 750 isn’t bad IMO, but I wouldn’t carry it.

One day I might go with the EGW internals, but to me, the trigger. Etc is fine. If I go that route, I’m having the pistol stripped and nitrited in black. They should have black oxided this pistol. IMO, that would have solved a shit load of the initial issues and reliability problems that earned this pistol a mixed reputation.

Edit. I have the Atlas guide rod as well. I just don’t that the two piece wouldn’t unscrew in the field.
 
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#222
Interesting read from the Enos link above the fact they are using a Ti firing pin, probably as others have concluded to improve drop safety and reduce firing pin inertia. The downside of course is that the firing pin also won't hit as hard, and it's tip is certainly going to deform faster than a steel counterpart. I'd bet people could go with lighter mainsprings if they swapped to a steel firing pin and still get reliable ignition than you can get away with on a Ti firing pin. I suppose the Ti firing pin speeds lock-time a bit, but I doubt that matters in this discipline.

If they Cerakote'd the spring guide rod that's just a horrible idea, it's a sticky coating. Personally I think Cerakote is a shit coating that's only popular because it's cheap, easy to apply, and comes in a ton of colors. It does an okay job of corrosion protection, but it's thick and soft as far as coatings go. It's okay on a guns exterior, but should never ever be used on any parts that rotate/slide etc.
 
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#223
Well, I probably should have just shot my new Prodigy before buying anything for it then decided. hahaha.

I dry fired it 1000x or so since I bought it. I took it out to the range today and put 300rd or so through it shooting 90% my 124gr Extreme HP/4.0gr Titegroup load and 10% Blazer Brass 115gr factory ammo.

Mixed HS Cleaned 9mm brass
CCI SPP
124gr Xtreme HP
4.0gr Titegroup
1.135" COAL

All rounds were run on my 1050/Ammobot. Brass was all processed on a dedicated brass processing toolhead deprimed, swagged, sized. Then all brass was run on a dedicated loading toolhead with a Mighty Armory flare die, Redding Micrometer seating die and Mighty Armory crimp die.

I loaded the first 20rd mag with the 124gr Xtreme HP handloads and I had 2 Failure to Feeds. Very first round out the mag stabbed straight into the feed ramp and didnt slide up it into the chamber. I pulled the slide back a hair and let it go and it went in the chamber and fired fine. The next 3 fed and fired fine, the 5th round same thing, stabbed straight into the feed ramp. I again pulled the slide back and let go and it fed into the chamber this time. Next 15rd in the mag fed and fired fine.

After the 2 FTF in that first 5rds through the gun, never had another problem for the next 280rds. Every round fed, fired and ejected perfectly after that first 5rds.

I am extremely happy with my purchase. The gun is super smooth shooting and very accurate with my handloads.

I have a bunch of parts coming this week. Ill start replacing parts 1 at a time and seeing how the gun runs and feels. The trigger has definitely smoothed out from when I first got it but its still got a little gritty feel from the wall until the trigger breaks.
 
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#225
Alright, some updates for anyone that is following or cares on the new Prodigy progress and testing.

So after putting 298 problem free rounds through it the other day as mentioned in my previous post, I brought it back to the shop and tore it down.

After cleaning everything I had a pretty good trigger that was breaking around 3.75Lbs on my trigger pull gauge. Still had the slightest ever grit feeling at the wall but was way better after lots of dry fire and cleaning.

Last night, I Started adjusting the sear spring per the Atlas video. I had it adjusted down to around 2.75lb and felt really good, still had that little bit of gritty pull when you started pulling from the wall and before the hammer fell. Couldnt get rid of that no matter what I did but it was honestly a pretty darn nice trigger if I couldnt do anything else.

My EGW ignition kit, mainsprint, tooless guide rod, atlas trigger package and Dawson firing pin came today.

I tore it back down, installed the Atlas trigger and bow, got that tuned where I wanted it, installed the EGW ignition kit and tuned the sear spring that came in the kit.

WOW is all i can say. Grit is gonna, nice short take up before hitting the wall, trigger breaks at the wall like a candy cane. No more grit and additional travel before breaking like the factory ignition parts. Also, it measures dead on 2lb trigger tested 15+ times in a row on my Timney trigger pull weight gauge.

I am very happy with the gun now, the 2lb trigger pull, Atlas trigger and the way it breaks is excellent. Never thought these parts would get it feeling like this without sending to a smith to work the trigger. Really like the feel of the Atlas trigger too compared to the factory trigger shoe.

Also, life is SO MUCH BETTER with a tooless guide rod. I actually realized I ordered 2 by mistake. I have the Atlas tooless guide rod installed with the factory spring currently. I have the EGW toolless guide rod assembly with their spring and all I have not installed yet. Ill test both setups at the range and see which one I like best.

I have not installed the 19# mainspring that came in the EGW ignition kit or the Dawson extended steel firing pin. Ill decide if I need/want to do that after I get some rounds through it as it sits configured today.
 
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#226
padom said:
Alright, some updates for anyone that is following or cares on the new Prodigy progress and testing.

So after putting 298 problem free rounds through it the other day as mentioned in my previous post, I brought it back to the shop and tore it down.

After cleaning everything I had a pretty good trigger that was breaking around 3.75Lbs on my trigger pull gauge. Still had the slightest ever grit feeling at the wall but was way better after lots of dry fire and cleaning.

Last night, I Started adjusting the sear spring per the Atlas video. I had it adjusted down to around 2.75lb and felt really good, still had that little bit of gritty pull when you started pulling from the wall and before the hammer fell. Couldnt get rid of that no matter what I did but it was honestly a pretty darn nice trigger if I couldnt do anything else.

My EGW ignition kit, mainsprint, tooless guide rod, atlas trigger package and Dawson firing pin came today.

I tore it back down, installed the Atlas trigger and bow, got that tuned where I wanted it, installed the EGW ignition kit and tuned the sear spring that came in the kit.

WOW is all i can say. Grit is gonna, nice short take up before hitting the wall, trigger breaks at the wall like a candy cane. No more grit and additional travel before breaking like the factory ignition parts. Also, it measures dead on 2lb trigger tested 15+ times in a row on my Timney trigger pull weight gauge.

I am very happy with the gun now, the 2lb trigger pull, Atlas trigger and the way it breaks is excellent. Never thought these parts would get it feeling like this without sending to a smith to work the trigger. Really like the feel of the Atlas trigger too compared to the factory trigger shoe.

Also, life is SO MUCH BETTER with a tooless guide rod. I actually realized I ordered 2 by mistake. I have the Atlas tooless guide rod installed with the factory spring currently. I have the EGW toolless guide rod assembly with their spring and all I have not installed yet. Ill test both setups at the range and see which one I like best.

I have not installed the 19# mainspring that came in the EGW ignition kit or the Dawson extended steel firing pin. Ill decide if I need/want to do that after I get some rounds through it as it sits configured today.
Click to expand...
If you want to donate your spare for my YouTube review let me know 😂
 
#227
Charmingmander said:
As someone who has owned and shot a few 1911s over the years but not handled a 2011 I have to ask since I never see it talked about; isn't the grip insanely thick/wide compared to say a Glock? Maybe it's just how they always appear in photos/video.
Click to expand...

No. The prodigy has the best feeling grip of all 2011s. It’s like it was made for my hand. It has a round front strap, the Staccato has a more square front strap. Prodigy feels way better.
 
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#228
padom said:
Alright, some updates for anyone that is following or cares on the new Prodigy progress and testing.

So after putting 298 problem free rounds through it the other day as mentioned in my previous post, I brought it back to the shop and tore it down.

After cleaning everything I had a pretty good trigger that was breaking around 3.75Lbs on my trigger pull gauge. Still had the slightest ever grit feeling at the wall but was way better after lots of dry fire and cleaning.

Last night, I Started adjusting the sear spring per the Atlas video. I had it adjusted down to around 2.75lb and felt really good, still had that little bit of gritty pull when you started pulling from the wall and before the hammer fell. Couldnt get rid of that no matter what I did but it was honestly a pretty darn nice trigger if I couldnt do anything else.

My EGW ignition kit, mainsprint, tooless guide rod, atlas trigger package and Dawson firing pin came today.

I tore it back down, installed the Atlas trigger and bow, got that tuned where I wanted it, installed the EGW ignition kit and tuned the sear spring that came in the kit.

WOW is all i can say. Grit is gonna, nice short take up before hitting the wall, trigger breaks at the wall like a candy cane. No more grit and additional travel before breaking like the factory ignition parts. Also, it measures dead on 2lb trigger tested 15+ times in a row on my Timney trigger pull weight gauge.

I am very happy with the gun now, the 2lb trigger pull, Atlas trigger and the way it breaks is excellent. Never thought these parts would get it feeling like this without sending to a smith to work the trigger. Really like the feel of the Atlas trigger too compared to the factory trigger shoe.

Also, life is SO MUCH BETTER with a tooless guide rod. I actually realized I ordered 2 by mistake. I have the Atlas tooless guide rod installed with the factory spring currently. I have the EGW toolless guide rod assembly with their spring and all I have not installed yet. Ill test both setups at the range and see which one I like best.

I have not installed the 19# mainspring that came in the EGW ignition kit or the Dawson extended steel firing pin. Ill decide if I need/want to do that after I get some rounds through it as it sits configured today.
Click to expand...


Get some dummy rounds, whether snapcaps or something you make yourself.

Load them in a magazine, lock slide back, insert magazine and drop the slide, don't rack it, drop the slide on the dummy round.

Do this about 100 times to make sure you don't have hammer follow with that light pull.

You get hammer follow and that thing can turn into a full auto mess in a hurry.


So just check it with some dummy rounds. Drop the slide don't rack it, you can do that too, after, just make sure the hammer doesn't follow on slide drop.
 
#229
calling4life said:
Get some dummy rounds, whether snapcaps or something you make yourself.

Load them in a magazine, lock slide back, insert magazine and drop the slide, don't rack it, drop the slide on the dummy round.

Do this about 100 times to make sure you don't have hammer follow with that light pull.

You get hammer follow and that thing can turn into a full auto mess in a hurry.


So just check it with some dummy rounds. Drop the slide don't rack it, you can do that too, after, just make sure the hammer doesn't follow on slide drop.
Click to expand...

Yep, Ive been testing that a ton already. I had to make adjustments to not get hammer follow. As it sits, everything is perfect but will keep testing
 
#230
Something else to consider is the over travel. Very good friend and rifle /pistol builder took his over travel a tiny bit too short and the slide coming forward was enough force to fire pistol if he was still in the wall. His split times were fucking amazing 🤣
 
#231
I just dropped the slide another 50+ times and hammer never fell. Trigger pull still sits right at 2lbs.

I did have an issue with the EGW disconnector not fitting in the hole. That was easily fixed with with fine grit sandpaper. Ive read others having this issue and EGW stating they come oversized to be fit to each gun. It literally took a minute to get it freely moving in and out of the hole.

Last issue I had was with the EGW disconnector holding the slide back when you fired and held trigger to the rear. The EGW disconnector sticks up too high and the slide wont slide over it. Another easy fix by sanding it down and polishing it so the slide moves right over it like the stock disconnector.

My Holosun plate came and its installed. Im ready for range session #2 to put 500 or so rounds through it and see how it performs.
 
#232
The basic problem with 2011 and other polymer pistols is the inadequate 9mm cartridge.
It seems as if the FBI and everyone else has forgotten about the ‘Miami Massacre’!
I have two Wilson EDC’s that i am going to sell. Great pistols but 9mm only.
I have totally switched to 357 SIG and the SIG 40cal I had previously purchased.
For high cap, I have taken a SIG P320 upper/barrel in 357 SIG, Wilson combat lower and SIG M18 FCU to get the best of all worlds in high cap with a manual safety.
I also have SIG P229’s, SIG P226’s in 40SIG, SIG P239 357 SIG and G31 and G33 for a pocket pistol.
-Richard
 

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#233
Budrichard said:
The basic problem with 2011 and other polymer pistols is the inadequate 9mm cartridge.
It seems as if the FBI and everyone else has forgotten about the ‘Miami Massacre’!
I have two Wilson EDC’s that i am going to sell. Great pistols but 9mm only.
I have totally switched to 357 SIG and the SIG 40cal I had previously purchased.
For high cap, I have taken a SIG P320 upper/barrel in 357 SIG, Wilson combat lower and SIG M18 FCU to get the best of all worlds in high cap with a manual safety.
I also have SIG P229’s, SIG P226’s in 40SIG, SIG P239 357 SIG and G31 and G33 for a pocket pistol.
-Richard
Click to expand...

Uh, ok. and what does this have to do with the Prodigy? This is a Springfield DS Prodigy thread.....
 
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#235
ToddM said:
Seems like the Prodigy would make a great donor double stack 1911. Cheap enough you can still spend a few hundred dollars with a really good 1911 smith working it over if you want, still be under $2000, but replace various parts and get a really nice reliability/trigger job etc.
Click to expand...
This...

The prodigy is a solid entry level 2011 that can be built up to run with guns that cost significantly more than a compete prodigy with optic. I recently found a used 5 inch model for around 1100 bucks. I traded in a old glock 30 I got from a old roommate for rent and walked out with the prodigy for around 900 bucks.

Coming from a glock, the prodigy is light years smoother than what I am used to and I have no dropping 500 bucks or so to address some of the factory deficiencies
 
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#242
Well, my son and I took the Prodigy out for the 2nd time today. First time with all the new parts.

Ran smooth as hell and trigger is WOW! Honestly, I may adjust the trigger a tad heavier but we will see.

Not a single hiccup, malfunction, nothing. We put about 400rd through it. 124gr Xtreme HP and Titegroup run on my automated 1050. I fucking love this pistol.
 
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#243
My 4.25” prodigy has run really well to date, not a 100%, but I still don’t have a huge round count on it. I’d have to go back and look at my posts, but if I recall, the failures I had were with a fairly dirty action so I just keep it clean. I know for a fact that my 1000 reps of dry fire and slide cycling prior to ever shooting it, definitely got a lot of cerakote out and smoothed things out immensely. Now I want the tan 5” model.

On another note, I have a full size 1911 that I’d love a qualified person to possibly do a little trigger tuning to. I don’t think that’s part of skill level. Anyone around WV that I can trust with that?
 
#244
So my first issue with this Prodigy and its minor but annoying. Pulled the pistol out of my range bag last night to clean and put back in the safe after yesterday's session and notificed the fiber optic filament was completely gone on the front sight. It fell out of the front sight while shooting yesterday.

My son was the last one to shoot it and we were using the Holosun 507c the entire time so we didn't notice it on the range. Little disappointing but not the end of the world. Looks like Springfield cut a corner here to save money vs using a closed front site with the fiber optic filament inside like most other high end pistols..

I called up Springfield and they were quick to answer and immediately said they were sending out 2 green and 2 red new fiber optic filaments so they did handle the problem quickly.

Doing a quick search on the internet, I found lots of complaints about this very issue that many have had with their Prodigy in the first month.

The way this filament is installed on the Prodigy, the filament is cut to length and pushed through the 2 holes on the front site then you burn and mushroom the 2 ends to make a knob or mushroom so it cant fall out either end. Not a design I like but we will see. Happens again after I replace it Im putting new sights on it.




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#245
padom said:
So my first issue with this Prodigy and its minor but annoying. Pulled the pistol out of my range bag last night to clean and put back in the safe after yesterday's session and notificed the fiber optic filament was completely gone on the front sight. It fell out of the front sight while shooting yesterday.

My son was the last one to shoot it and we were using the Holosun 507c the entire time so we didn't notice it on the range. Little disappointing but not the end of the world. Looks like Springfield cut a corner here to save money vs using a closed front site with the fiber optic filament inside like most other high end pistols..

I called up Springfield and they were quick to answer and immediately said they were sending out 2 green and 2 red new fiber optic filaments so they did handle the problem quickly.

Doing a quick search on the internet, I found lots of complaints about this very issue that many have had with their Prodigy in the first month.

The way this filament is installed on the Prodigy, the filament is cut to length and pushed through the 2 holes on the front site then you burn and mushroom the 2 ends to make a knob or mushroom so it cant fall out either end. Not a design I like but we will see. Happens again after I replace it Im putting new sights on it.




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Did Stevie Wonder cut that slot for the filament?
 
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#246
Seems like they are perhaps cutting corners on not getting the ends "smooshed" well. I know on Archery and Shotgun sights it can be a problem as well. I suppose it's also possible the sight is too close to the muzzle and the melting the end of the fiber. Most of the ones I've seen space the front sight back just that 1/8-1/4" from the end of the slide. At least they sent you some parts, better than the shit shows I've gone through with Beretta and Burris lately. I might lay a little super glue down on the bed of the sight when you replace it.
 
#247
ToddM said:
Seems like they are perhaps cutting corners on not getting the ends "smooshed" well. I know on Archery and Shotgun sights it can be a problem as well. I suppose it's also possible the sight is too close to the muzzle and the melting the end of the fiber. Most of the ones I've seen space the front sight back just that 1/8-1/4" from the end of the slide. At least they sent you some parts, better than the shit shows I've gone through with Beretta and Burris lately. I might lay a little super glue down on the bed of the sight when you replace it.
Click to expand...

Funny you say that, I asked the customer support rep the exact same question. "Do you think its heating up where the mushroom is getting soft and thats why it fell it"?? He said no thats not happening, someone went too fast and didnt ensure the mushroom was big enough and its easy to overlook because its so small....

Well, I could believe this on a very small percentage but with all the reports of the exact issue online reported by many, its either heating up and melting and falling out OR the QC of this step before leaving the factory is non-existent.....
 
#248
padom said:
So my first issue with this Prodigy and its minor but annoying. Pulled the pistol out of my range bag last night to clean and put back in the safe after yesterday's session and notificed the fiber optic filament was completely gone on the front sight. It fell out of the front sight while shooting yesterday.

My son was the last one to shoot it and we were using the Holosun 507c the entire time so we didn't notice it on the range. Little disappointing but not the end of the world. Looks like Springfield cut a corner here to save money vs using a closed front site with the fiber optic filament inside like most other high end pistols..

I called up Springfield and they were quick to answer and immediately said they were sending out 2 green and 2 red new fiber optic filaments so they did handle the problem quickly.

Doing a quick search on the internet, I found lots of complaints about this very issue that many have had with their Prodigy in the first month.

The way this filament is installed on the Prodigy, the filament is cut to length and pushed through the 2 holes on the front site then you burn and mushroom the 2 ends to make a knob or mushroom so it cant fall out either end. Not a design I like but we will see. Happens again after I replace it Im putting new sights on it.




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Click to expand...

That is the most common type of FO front sight. Melt one end of the fiber before sliding it through the sight, from the rear toward the muzzle. Pull the fiber tight, clip it slightly long with side cutters, and then melt the end into a round bulb that contacts the sight. Don't smash the melted end into the sight, allow it to melt into a bulb that touches the sight blade. The greater the material melted the longer the fiber will last. It may take a couple of tries but once you get the hang of it you'll have really durable fiber optic fibers.
 
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#249
#250
Cascade Hemi said:
That is the most common type of FO front sight. Melt one end of the fiber before sliding it through the sight, from the rear toward the muzzle. Pull the fiber tight, clip it slightly long with side cutters, and then melt the end into a round bulb that contacts the sight. Don't smash the melted end into the sight, allow it to melt into a bulb that touches the sight blade. The greater the material melted the longer the fiber will last. It may take a couple of tries but once you get the hang of it you'll have really durable fiber optic fibers.
Click to expand...

I am aware on how to install it. The issue is the widespread reports of new Prodigy owners reporting their factory installed filament falling out in the first month or less of owning it...
 
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