Silencer grease and threadlock

1-I use high temp nickel based anti seize on adapters, caps, etc. Never an issue with loosening or taking them apart.

2-The Vibra-Tite is intended to be removable but still hold tight. Never used it.

3-No direct mount in use. Well actually, yes-the Area 419 which uses a left hand thread, never loosens on mine.

cjviva said:

1. would copper anti seize or ceramic brake lube work as grease from the stuff I use on cars.

Click to expand...

Best practice would be to use nickle, being a titanium part on stainless threads. I use loctite LB 771, just a thin coat straight to the supressor threads.

cjviva said:

2. Would using threadlocker cause the silencer hard to take off for transportation If I plan to take it off after shooting.

Click to expand...

Yes. I don't have a direct thread can, but I would not use threadlocker on the can/brake or can/barrel interface... 243 has a cure time, so you'd have put it on the barrel before heading out and that just wouldn't work for me. No experience with vibra-tight.

This for anti-seize can threads

For endcap and mid-body threads I use nickel anti-seize. For direct threaded cans I use Lok-Cease 20/20, which you can get at Griffin:

Lok-Cease doesn’t get everywhere like anti-seize does and works well on muzzle threads so the can doesn’t carbon lock onto your gun. After I went through the little jars, I bought a big jug of it at McMaster, part #9438K1. “Food Industry Antiseize”. Same stuff.

I have had both the Lol-Cease AND nickle stuff fail on other suppressor threads, meaning I can’t unscrew endcaps etc. but never had a can carbon lock onto the muzzle.

Two tips:
1) Frank Green of Bartlein says to remove your suppressor after storing the gun, as moisture in the suppressor and the crown is not good… corrosion over time. Also, over time chunks of extremely hard carbon will fall out of the suppressor and into your bore (found this out!).

2) if you add the grease to the female part only, you make less of a mess when screwing parts together.