cz manners 457 rebarrel contour

barrel contour 22" length

  • Total voters
    12
Cody S

Cody S

Needmoor Creedmoor
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
Mar 3, 2017
839
478
Hazard, Kentucky
#1
I'm looking at ordering the cz in a manners and replacing the barrel with a 22" for prs. what contour should I go with for balance purposes? a few inches in front of mag well ideally.
heavily considering 1.1 straight, but m24 might be better looking imo.
reciever will be threaded prior so not worried about flex.
TIA
 
Last edited:
#4
I’d go for 24” by 1.10-1.18” straight. Both of mine are in ACC chassis, which are a little butt heavy, but even the 1.1 needed a little weight (1+ lb) added. I haven’t laid hands on the CZ TCS, but if it’s like the centerfire TCS, you’ll want the extra weight out front in the barrel.
 
#6
1911Shootist said:
I’d go for 24” by 1.10-1.18” straight. Both of mine are in ACC chassis, which are a little butt heavy, but even the 1.1 needed a little weight (1+ lb) added. I haven’t laid hands on the CZ TCS, but if it’s like the centerfire TCS, you’ll want the extra weight out front in the barrel.
Click to expand...
you think the 24" will shoot the long range and midas + at full speed?
a 24" barrel would make this a lot easier for sure.
 
Last edited:
#7
021411 said:
Just know that you will more than likely have to modify your chassis/stock to accommodate 1.25” straight tubes on the CZ.
Click to expand...
what do you think the max I can go with without getting into too much trouble?
sounds like the hiders are saying go 24" strsight and as wide as I can so now I need to figure out how wide that is before I order my barrel.
I'd like to do a 1.18" straight now after reading these thoughts and hope that's chonky enough to stabilize.
 
#10
24" 1.1" diameter and you will be good. You will probably need a weighted Arca Rail once your optic is mounted and such. It al depends on how your setup is.

23" - 25" you will not see a difference in speed that matters. What you will see is your SD & ES start to settle down and stabilize out. If you have a round that has a little more powder in it (HOT) it will not be nearly as hot when it exits a 23 + inch barrel. I have tested poor ES & SD SK Standard + from 18" to 25" and it started to settle out once I got into my 23" barrel. The groups got a little better as it reduced how far out the flyers were. It still wasn't great ammo, but it was good enough to shoot matches with if needed. I watched all the shots and numbers on my FX True Ballistics chronograph to prove it. It was very interesting to see.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobby1028 and Emerson0311
#11
Defender32 said:
24" 1.1" diameter and you will be good. You will probably need a weighted Arca Rail once your optic is mounted and such. It al depends on how your setup is.

23" - 25" you will not see a difference in speed that matters. What you will see is your SD & ES start to settle down and stabilize out. If you have a round that has a little more powder in it (HOT) it will not be nearly as hot when it exits a 23 + inch barrel. I have tested poor ES & SD SK Standard + from 18" to 25" and it started to settle out once I got into my 23" barrel. The groups got a little better as it reduced how far out the flyers were. It still wasn't great ammo, but it was good enough to shoot matches with if needed. I watched all the shots and numbers on my FX True Ballistics chronograph to prove it. It was very interesting to see.
Click to expand...
The ES stabilization is the reason I have gone for a 25.5" barrel. I haven't got enough data yet to see if it actually is more consistent than my factory 16" barrel (Tikka) but it definitely shoots better than my Tikka.

Ith CCI standard I'm actually getting 1 or 2 shots in 50 that are a good 80fps slower than the rest, if you exclude these "fliers" the ES is actually pretty reasonable.
The first box I put the through the new barrel had 4 or 5 of these slow shots, after a few hundred rounds it's now only 1 or 2 per 50.
 
#12
As for weight I say go as heavy as possible, especially if it's possible to put some weights in the butt.

Getting weight out front (for balance) is a lot harder than doing weight in the rear, so better off to be muzzle heavy and add rear weight if needed.
 
#13
I went with a mullerworks barrel. 24" 1.15 diameter.
probably going to get the threaded black laminate stock one and rebarrel it for prs use.
fwiw mullerworks has cut rifled rimfire blanks for order if you email them.

think this stock will be suitable for prs to learn if I add an arca rail and a small cheek riser if needed?
not positive it'll balance but I think it'll be there, maybe I'll drill some big holes if needed.
I heard a rumor that a company I like is releasing a chassis soon enough so I'm going for a cheap stock that I can use for a short duration while I wait on that chassis.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240728_224158_Samsung Internet.jpg
    Screenshot_20240728_224158_Samsung Internet.jpg
    104.1 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
#14
Cody S said:
I went with a mullerworks barrel. 24" 1.15 diameter.
probably going to get the threaded black laminate stock one and rebarrel it for prs use.
fwiw mullerworks has cut rifled rimfire blanks for order if you email them.

think this stock will be suitable for prs to learn if I add an arca rail and a small cheek riser if needed?
not positive it'll balance but I think it'll be there, maybe I'll drill some big holes if needed.
I heard a rumor that a company I like is releasing a chassis soon enough so I'm going for a cheap stock that I can use for a short duration while I wait on that chassis.
Click to expand...
100%. You could likely pillar bed that rifle and be competitive against anyone.

Wood is great in that it's easy to work with, and easy to repair if you need to fill hole you drilled in the wrong place.
It's also cheap enough you won't be scared to "accessorize" it.

For a stop gap/entry into competitions its a great starting point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cody S
#15
beetroot said:
100%. You could likely pillar bed that rifle and be competitive against anyone.

Wood is great in that it's easy to work with, and easy to repair if you need to fill hole you drilled in the wrong place.
It's also cheap enough you won't be scared to "accessorize" it.

For a stop gap/entry into competitions its a great starting point.
Click to expand...
I tried my first stop gap project rifle, my savage b22 precision in a match yesterday. didn't do great, didn't do awful.
any cz that feeds well and can hold a 12 round mag would for sure have bumped me into the top 10.
savage centerfire rifles are fine for learners. the b22 precision is most certainly not.
 
  • Like
Reactions: beetroot
#16
Cody S said:
I tried my first stop gap project rifle, my savage b22 precision in a match yesterday. didn't do great, didn't do awful.
any cz that feeds well and can hold a 12 round mag would for sure have bumped me into the top 10.
savage centerfire rifles are fine for learners. the b22 precision is most certainly not.
Click to expand...
I remember that thread and suggesting a Savage might be a poor choice. Almost every Savage I've seen at a match is a POS, I think it's the right choice to just part ways with it than spend time and money trying to fix it.

Honestly reliability is probably the most important factor for PRS (if you want to win) and a CZ 457 is probably the best rifle in this regard.

I'm a Tikka guy but if I had to start again I'd go CZ over my T1x.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Emerson0311
#17
+1 on the 1.180 straight. That'll match the diameter of your action and offer the most weight for balance. We have a 24 inch 1.180 on order from L3i, but according to my calculations it should be the right amount of weight to balance it the rifle nicely. My brother's CZ (factory VMTR 20.5 inch barrel) needs an extra 1.5 lbs out front to balance currently. Because barrels have the weight distributed evenly it should be enough out front. My calculations say the new barrel will be ~3.5 lbs of total increased weight. He also has the Area 419 weighted rail on there currently.

Current setup. The ADM PRC Gravity block and clamp weigh ~1.25 lbs. It just manages to balance as it is and weighs 13 lbs without the weight on there.
1722276200862.png
 
#18
beetroot said:
I remember that thread and suggesting a Savage might be a poor choice. Almost every Savage I've seen at a match is a POS, I think it's the right choice to just part ways with it than spend time and money trying to fix it.

Honestly reliability is probably the most important factor for PRS (if you want to win) and a CZ 457 is probably the best rifle in this regard.

I'm a Tikka guy but if I had to start again I'd go CZ over my T1x.
Click to expand...
to be fair, I ended up making the savage reliable enough, but it's really not super accurate either.
it was a fun toy for 500$ and I got to try a couple rimfire matches to see if I liked it before dropping 3k on a rifle which I did in the end anyway lol.
I didn't think 22s could be accurate enough to be up my alley but I was very wrong.
also I ended up with the mdt premier gen 2. decent value plus no wait times. I would have bought the elite or vanquish and still will if they ever release it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mark_Dorman
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mark_Dorman
New CZ 457 24" 1.180 Match Barrel from L3i
Replies
43
Views
2K
Mechdesigner
Mechdesigner
Mark_Dorman
How to get the CZ 457 Manners TCS Stock
Replies
21
Views
2K
Cody S
Cody S
climbing1
I get by with a little help from my friends...
Replies
0
Views
193
climbing1
climbing1
CR2 Dude
Accessories WTS Brand New Manners Stock w/ Mini-chassis
Replies
6
Views
899
Spd37
S
I
Beating a dead horse: another rimfire in an L96 airsoft stock
Replies
15
Views
3K
Salinas
Salinas
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts