cz manners 457 rebarrel contour

[Cody S]

I'm looking at ordering the cz in a manners and replacing the barrel with a 22" for prs. what contour should I go with for balance purposes? a few inches in front of mag well ideally.
heavily considering 1.1 straight, but m24 might be better looking imo.
reciever will be threaded prior so not worried about flex.
TIA

 

[Emerson0311]

That short you will need a heavy contour for balance.

 

[oldrifleman]

Either MTU or 1.25 straight. I like the taper, but either works your butt stock plus action/scope will all be behind the fulcrum so weight is needed out front.

 

[1911Shootist]

I’d go for 24” by 1.10-1.18” straight. Both of mine are in ACC chassis, which are a little butt heavy, but even the 1.1 needed a little weight (1+ lb) added. I haven’t laid hands on the CZ TCS, but if it’s like the centerfire TCS, you’ll want the extra weight out front in the barrel.

 

[021411]

Just know that you will more than likely have to modify your chassis/stock to accommodate 1.25” straight tubes on the CZ.

 

[Cody S]

I’d go for 24” by 1.10-1.18” straight. Both of mine are in ACC chassis, which are a little butt heavy, but even the 1.1 needed a little weight (1+ lb) added. I haven’t laid hands on the CZ TCS, but if it’s like the centerfire TCS, you’ll want the extra weight out front in the barrel.

you think the 24" will shoot the long range and midas + at full speed?
a 24" barrel would make this a lot easier for sure.

 

[Cody S]

Just know that you will more than likely have to modify your chassis/stock to accommodate 1.25” straight tubes on the CZ.

what do you think the max I can go with without getting into too much trouble?
sounds like the hiders are saying go 24" strsight and as wide as I can so now I need to figure out how wide that is before I order my barrel.
I'd like to do a 1.18" straight now after reading these thoughts and hope that's chonky enough to stabilize.

 

[Kadams1563]

Most of the rimfire shooter that are competing at a high level seem to run 24” straight.

Modacam has 200 barrels on order and every single one of them is a 1.2 straight.

 

[1911Shootist]

you think the 24" will shoot the long range and midas + at full speed?
a 24" barrel would make this a lot easier for sure.

Can’t say for sure, but the weight will be far more beneficial than the tiny velocity difference between 22 & 24” if there even is any.

 

[Defender32]

24" 1.1" diameter and you will be good. You will probably need a weighted Arca Rail once your optic is mounted and such. It al depends on how your setup is.

23" - 25" you will not see a difference in speed that matters. What you will see is your SD & ES start to settle down and stabilize out. If you have a round that has a little more powder in it (HOT) it will not be nearly as hot when it exits a 23 + inch barrel. I have tested poor ES & SD SK Standard + from 18" to 25" and it started to settle out once I got into my 23" barrel. The groups got a little better as it reduced how far out the flyers were. It still wasn't great ammo, but it was good enough to shoot matches with if needed. I watched all the shots and numbers on my FX True Ballistics chronograph to prove it. It was very interesting to see.

 

[beetroot]

24" 1.1" diameter and you will be good. You will probably need a weighted Arca Rail once your optic is mounted and such. It al depends on how your setup is.

23" - 25" you will not see a difference in speed that matters. What you will see is your SD & ES start to settle down and stabilize out. If you have a round that has a little more powder in it (HOT) it will not be nearly as hot when it exits a 23 + inch barrel. I have tested poor ES & SD SK Standard + from 18" to 25" and it started to settle out once I got into my 23" barrel. The groups got a little better as it reduced how far out the flyers were. It still wasn't great ammo, but it was good enough to shoot matches with if needed. I watched all the shots and numbers on my FX True Ballistics chronograph to prove it. It was very interesting to see.

The ES stabilization is the reason I have gone for a 25.5" barrel. I haven't got enough data yet to see if it actually is more consistent than my factory 16" barrel (Tikka) but it definitely shoots better than my Tikka.

Ith CCI standard I'm actually getting 1 or 2 shots in 50 that are a good 80fps slower than the rest, if you exclude these "fliers" the ES is actually pretty reasonable.
The first box I put the through the new barrel had 4 or 5 of these slow shots, after a few hundred rounds it's now only 1 or 2 per 50.

 

[beetroot]

As for weight I say go as heavy as possible, especially if it's possible to put some weights in the butt.

Getting weight out front (for balance) is a lot harder than doing weight in the rear, so better off to be muzzle heavy and add rear weight if needed.

 

[Cody S]

I went with a mullerworks barrel. 24" 1.15 diameter.
probably going to get the threaded black laminate stock one and rebarrel it for prs use.
fwiw mullerworks has cut rifled rimfire blanks for order if you email them.

think this stock will be suitable for prs to learn if I add an arca rail and a small cheek riser if needed?
not positive it'll balance but I think it'll be there, maybe I'll drill some big holes if needed.
I heard a rumor that a company I like is releasing a chassis soon enough so I'm going for a cheap stock that I can use for a short duration while I wait on that chassis.

 

[beetroot]

I went with a mullerworks barrel. 24" 1.15 diameter.
probably going to get the threaded black laminate stock one and rebarrel it for prs use.
fwiw mullerworks has cut rifled rimfire blanks for order if you email them.

think this stock will be suitable for prs to learn if I add an arca rail and a small cheek riser if needed?
not positive it'll balance but I think it'll be there, maybe I'll drill some big holes if needed.
I heard a rumor that a company I like is releasing a chassis soon enough so I'm going for a cheap stock that I can use for a short duration while I wait on that chassis.

100%. You could likely pillar bed that rifle and be competitive against anyone.

Wood is great in that it's easy to work with, and easy to repair if you need to fill hole you drilled in the wrong place.
It's also cheap enough you won't be scared to "accessorize" it.

For a stop gap/entry into competitions its a great starting point.

 

[Cody S]

100%. You could likely pillar bed that rifle and be competitive against anyone.

Wood is great in that it's easy to work with, and easy to repair if you need to fill hole you drilled in the wrong place.
It's also cheap enough you won't be scared to "accessorize" it.

For a stop gap/entry into competitions its a great starting point.

I tried my first stop gap project rifle, my savage b22 precision in a match yesterday. didn't do great, didn't do awful.
any cz that feeds well and can hold a 12 round mag would for sure have bumped me into the top 10.
savage centerfire rifles are fine for learners. the b22 precision is most certainly not.

 

[beetroot]

I tried my first stop gap project rifle, my savage b22 precision in a match yesterday. didn't do great, didn't do awful.
any cz that feeds well and can hold a 12 round mag would for sure have bumped me into the top 10.
savage centerfire rifles are fine for learners. the b22 precision is most certainly not.

I remember that thread and suggesting a Savage might be a poor choice. Almost every Savage I've seen at a match is a POS, I think it's the right choice to just part ways with it than spend time and money trying to fix it.

Honestly reliability is probably the most important factor for PRS (if you want to win) and a CZ 457 is probably the best rifle in this regard.

I'm a Tikka guy but if I had to start again I'd go CZ over my T1x.

 

[Mark_Dorman]

+1 on the 1.180 straight. That'll match the diameter of your action and offer the most weight for balance. We have a 24 inch 1.180 on order from L3i, but according to my calculations it should be the right amount of weight to balance it the rifle nicely. My brother's CZ (factory VMTR 20.5 inch barrel) needs an extra 1.5 lbs out front to balance currently. Because barrels have the weight distributed evenly it should be enough out front. My calculations say the new barrel will be ~3.5 lbs of total increased weight. He also has the Area 419 weighted rail on there currently.

Current setup. The ADM PRC Gravity block and clamp weigh ~1.25 lbs. It just manages to balance as it is and weighs 13 lbs without the weight on there.

 

[Cody S]

I remember that thread and suggesting a Savage might be a poor choice. Almost every Savage I've seen at a match is a POS, I think it's the right choice to just part ways with it than spend time and money trying to fix it.

Honestly reliability is probably the most important factor for PRS (if you want to win) and a CZ 457 is probably the best rifle in this regard.

I'm a Tikka guy but if I had to start again I'd go CZ over my T1x.

to be fair, I ended up making the savage reliable enough, but it's really not super accurate either.
it was a fun toy for 500$ and I got to try a couple rimfire matches to see if I liked it before dropping 3k on a rifle which I did in the end anyway lol.
I didn't think 22s could be accurate enough to be up my alley but I was very wrong.
also I ended up with the mdt premier gen 2. decent value plus no wait times. I would have bought the elite or vanquish and still will if they ever release it.