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Building the Perfect Reloading Room
- Thread starter sirhrmechanic
- Start date
Yeah, I use the silicon ones. I forget exactly which, but I've had a couple sets over the years. You need enough/the right size to suspend the weight of your granite and scale setup.
There are also vibration stabilizing tables but those are a bit overkill IME.
Got my bench, cabinets and most shelves sorted. Mounting press and vice today, will post some pics later. One thing I haven't quite resolved is where to store all the spare barrels I have. They used to just sit on a table in my reloading room but that's not gonna work here. Was thinking of making a specific cabinet for them, anyone do anything similar? Have a bout a dozen barrels, most are 26" long.
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Make a barrel rack for them. Kind of like a wine rack but you don't need to have a slight tilt or diamond shaped openings.
I've always wanted to do a barrel drawer below the bench with a rack inside, but I've only got a couple spares so they just sit in the corner of a safe. Not my photo, but maybe how I’ll do the next bench
Some pics from when I started to how it is now:
Pics are outta order for some reason. Still need to add a 4th cabinet to the left of the 3 on the wall and have a shelving unit I'm gonna put on the wall to the left of the bench. Gonna build a few more shelves as well. Still moving more stuff here and trying to cull and organize my shit...
Pics are outta order for some reason. Still need to add a 4th cabinet to the left of the 3 on the wall and have a shelving unit I'm gonna put on the wall to the left of the bench. Gonna build a few more shelves as well. Still moving more stuff here and trying to cull and organize my shit...
Spoke with the inspector again, he told me that he told the permit office to release it. I called the permit office, they claimed to not have it, then 5 minutes after that phone call they call back and miraculously “find it”….
Permit submitted and sent to the power company. Should be any day now
I have 3 reloading rooms... my favorite bench is the Bridgeport mill, in the garage, the table is adjustable for height. Has quick change aluminum plates on many presses.
Really stout, you can stand on the loading press handle for sizing, if needed, easy sizing even for 50BMG.
Really stout, you can stand on the loading press handle for sizing, if needed, easy sizing even for 50BMG.
Here is my humble addition. Moved into the house a few year ago and finally got around to a proper setup. I've added some more wall art since these pics but haven't taken any new pics.
I don't know about perfect, but I just had my room re-done. Its well lit and quite functional. The two things I like best are the numerous lumens from the LED panels and the sink. I don't have to drag my Ultrasonic around the house to empty and fill it anymore.
The door has a combination lock and there is a ammo storage closet where I keep my numerous ammo cans.
I even managed to squeeze in my Tig welding station.
Front angle
Reverse Angle
The door has a combination lock and there is a ammo storage closet where I keep my numerous ammo cans.
I even managed to squeeze in my Tig welding station.
Front angle
Reverse Angle
It’s a beaut! Good job!I don't know about perfect, but I just had my room re-done. Its well lit and quite functional. The two things I like best are the numerous lumens from the LED panels and the sink. I don't have to drag my Ultrasonic around the house to empty and fill it anymore.
The door has a combination lock and there is a ammo storage closet where I keep my numerous ammo cans.
I even managed to squeeze in my Tig welding station.
Front angle
Reverse Angle
Just now saw this. This is also a thing of beauty! Good job!Here is my humble addition. Moved into the house a few year ago and finally got around to a proper setup. I've added some more wall art since these pics but haven't taken any new pics.
One of three...Mine is not quite as beautiful but very functional...
This is by far, my best reloading room of three, as all rifle building, chambering, threading, parts making, is done here along with reloading...and quick change mounts on the Bridgeport mill which usually has two presses with adjustable height.
Just completed 700 510 Whisper cases from magnum cases.
The plastic bucket helps with the chip control problem when milling off all that brass.
Neck turning chips in the lathe chip pan.
It's always dirty and messy, just cleaned enough to do the next project.
Like this newly purchased Rem 700 in 300 WM rifle, ...I only want the action, the rest is discarded.
This is by far, my best reloading room of three, as all rifle building, chambering, threading, parts making, is done here along with reloading...and quick change mounts on the Bridgeport mill which usually has two presses with adjustable height.
Just completed 700 510 Whisper cases from magnum cases.
The plastic bucket helps with the chip control problem when milling off all that brass.
Neck turning chips in the lathe chip pan.
It's always dirty and messy, just cleaned enough to do the next project.
Like this newly purchased Rem 700 in 300 WM rifle, ...I only want the action, the rest is discarded.
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Ive been tossing the idea of tinkering with a 510 or 50 Goblin. Where are you sourcing your 338 cases?
The .510 Whisper is the most fun you'll have with subsonic loads or plinking for fun...or high velocity loads with 5000 ft/lbs of energy with light bullets made for the 50 Alaska type rds.
Here's where I purchased some of the 338 Lapua mag brass.
But found a better deal with 300 Norma brass pull downs, at American Reloading.
I made mine from the above Rem 700 in 300 WM action $540 out the door for a new complete rifle,... fitted a 338 Lapua Mag bolt to the Rem 700 action, and chambered the McGowen 10 twist .510 barrel, I purchased 2 blanks with fast twists the other is 6.5 twist 338 for the 8.6 Blackout project. Modified a MDT 3.715" mag to fit the alum chassis.
Huge subsonic 1100 fps, 1002 gr bullets only lose 180 fps from 0 to 1000 yds, and arrive with 2000 ft/lbs at 1000 yds.
At just 1200 fps to 1450 fps the 620 gr APIT start to penetrate through 3/8" AR 500 armor plate at 100 yds...and detonate on targets at like pieces of 2×4 wood sending them skyward with a flash and loud bang.
There is absolutely nothing like the .510 Whisper, I have the 300 Blk, the 338 Blk, the 450 Bushmaster.
Stop thinking about it and build yourself a .510 Whisper.
It would be great for sub hunters, .510 350 gr handgun copper bullets expand at 900 fps, I ran them at 2450 fps and fairly cheap or 750 gr to 900 gr copper expanding bullets.
I used my finish reamer to make the cartridge gauge, and to make the brass go- gauge... a gunsmith will be happy to build ya one...but doing it yourself saves1/2 to 2/3 the cost, and no waiting.
If it were popular Starline could make brass for it. The fun factor is very high.
Cheap military pull downs around 45 cents ea.
I resize them, so it's actually fairly cheap to plink away.
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This looks like whole bunch of fun. How's the recoil on one of these?
The recoil is easy and all day shooting with 650 gr subs, APITS...but going to 750 gr ATIPs at 1500 fps one definitely notices the difference. Even the 350 gr at 2450 fps isn't bad, but the really heavy bullets reaching 1500 fps are not what I'd consider all day enjoyment. It takes alot more powder to move 100 fps with these heavy bullets and recoil will double.
These are fired cases, most were fired in one day, about 150 in this box... quite a few were supers like this 50 gr load...and with the heavy bullet it starts to become an elephant rifle...but no where near my 416 Rigby, and these can be shot from the prone.
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I'm horrible about taking photos while doing a project. I had a 6x20 room made that was going to be filled with dirt when they built my house. It has 8 foot ceilings, poured walls, and a concrete roof. So I studded it up, used some of the leftover banged up drywall from our build and went to town. Installed 5 canned led lights and three outlets. I have some cabinets that were messed up in shipping that I'm going to place where the white paint is then butcher block the top. I plan on putting a storage rack on the other side to hold all the bigger items like hunting gear and gun cases.
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Consider a vault door on the entry you would have a good safe room.
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Yup. It was the footings for the house and the entry way that they were going to just fill with dirt then cap with concrete. I thought that was a waste of space so when we set the form, we sectioned off the door port. Then built the walls and roof, rebarred the crap out of it then poured concrete for the entry way.
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Harry,
Measure all of the things you think you want to mount. Find a sort of average.
Then, you will want to mount your things to a plate or board that is then attached to the T-track.
By finding an average, you won't have one plate be waaaay too big or one waaaay too small. But the plates (or piece of plywood or whatever) can then have a universal mounting distance to the T-track. Plan so that the big thing isn't overhanging too much and the small thing isn't too far inboard.
EDIT: if you have small things, you can mount 2 on one mount and just turn that mount 180 degrees. Actually, you could do a square of the T-track mounts and even mount 4 things on one mount.
Search: 339 results found for "T-track"
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DRB
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Harry,
Measure all of the things you think you want to mount. Find a sort of average.
Then, you will want to mount your things to a plate or board that is then attached to the T-track.
By finding an average, you won't have one plate be waaaay too big or one waaaay too small. But the plates (or piece of plywood or whatever) can then have a universal mounting distance to the T-track. Plan so that the big thing isn't overhanging too much and the small thing isn't too far inboard.
EDIT: if you have small things, you can mount 2 on one mount and just turn that mount 180 degrees. Actually, you could do a square of the T-track mounts and even mount 4 things on one mount.
Search: 339 results found for "T-track"
Whether you're a seasoned artisan or a novice enthusiast, shop Woodcraft for expert advice, unbeatable prices, superior brands, and a woodworking experience like no other. Explore our vast selection of premium wood, tools, and accessories, meticulously curated to fuel your passion for creating...
DRB
I guess you have to router it in?
Will that work in plywood? My reloading bench is 3/4" birch plywood, unfinished.
Yes, router a dado. You will want to double that 3/4" plywood just because you will want to attach the T-tracks securely using screws. The bottom of your groove will leave in the neighborhood of only 1/4". You could use CDX as the bottom layer, glued (use a glue trowel) and screwed together. Hide the screws by going from the bottom layer into the top layer. Avoid screws where you will be routing the groove. Have the track in hand before you decide to route a groove too deep or not deep enough.
Butcher block counter top stuff isn't super expensive. I'm looking at several sites online. Here is one with "seconds". I'm thinking more of the lighter colored woods.
Why are you considering rails you are building a reloading room not a carpenter shop No offense but I see very little opportunity to use rails in your application.
Well in the situation of what works for me, I don't like clutter the more you mount the more space you give up and the more clutter. the picture in your reply is a perfect example of that. No offense happy holidays.
These T-track systems are the shit if the guy has only a small area to work with.
Need to use a pattern makers vice? Take the press off and install that vice.
All of the parts and pieces can be stored on wall shelves or in a locker.
Need to use a pattern makers vice? Take the press off and install that vice.
All of the parts and pieces can be stored on wall shelves or in a locker.
i decided to use t-nut and not a track system as so powder doesn't get in there. now there are a bunch of holes in my work top.
Meh...it's a work bench.
I made one out of a thick walnut slab one time. The slab was about 4" thick and I left the live edge on the side close to me. I'd never do that again. Then I sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and then I used a 50/50 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits and let it sit about 3 days and then I sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and them I used a 50/50 mix of tung oil again. Let that dry about 3-4 days and hand sanded with 500 grit. Applied another layer of 50/50 and let that dry. Again. Again. Again. Again. Again. Again. Finally I used just my callouses to rub in a layer of oil.
It was beautiful! The wood was free so I only had some sandpaper, mineral spirits and tung oil and labor into it.
Then I drilled a big hole to install a big vise.
And I used a hammer to knock stuff loose on it.
And I dripped hot solder on it.
That was about 45 years ago and I might not use that slab as a workbench now but the point is, it was a workbench. Use it. And if you get the little holes or track or whatever filled with sawdust or gunpowder or whatever....there is this new invention out. It sucks.
EDIT: If you ever lose important stuff, like a detent spring or a set screw that is so tiny you barely found a key for it, when you go to suck, use a pantyhose over the orifice. If you don't have your own, just ask around.
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it is a workbench as you state as "work" is the main part, but those holes where thing fall into can be a pita. i usually cover the whole bench with a thin roll of rubber or some sort of mat that easily rolled back up. hopefully when i get to build my "ultimate" area i have the room to keep things in place and not need to switch thing around or need to remove for more work area. having an island would help for all sorts of better work area is in the thought process. for a work top i like bamboo, but might do birch or hickory?
Moth balls or ammonia smelly stuff.another thing is hopefully keep all cats away!
I prefer cats remain outdoors looking for pack rats and copperheads.
I have an ex-wife that loved her damned cat. I would find it on the counter where food prep would happen and lose my cool. She had a squirt gun, obviously ineffective. One day, after she left for work, I used little pieces of clear packing tape, laid down sticky side up. Some were as long as a foot. I used up what was left in the roll and booby trapped everywhere I didn't want the damned cat. I get home and can tell right away the booby trap had worked...lots of tape missing. I looked for the cat for about 10 seconds and then came to my senses. I gathered up all of the tape. She came home about an hour later and wondered where the cat was. i told her what I had done and she was mortified. She found the cat behind the clothes dryer. I had to move the dryer, she got that cat and then started pulling off the tape. The cat wasn't happy and didn't cooperate. I found it all very humorous but I didn't get laid that night.
You know what else that cat did? It NEVER got on the counter again.
You know what else that cat did? It NEVER got on the counter again.
i'm not necessarily a cat person, but do enjoy how funny they are and the wife and kids like them, but we don't like the in the house or where we eat or have food. every once in awhile we do let some in the house as long as the cats behave. they've killed many snakes and rodents the last 2 years, so we are happy about that! 1 kitten killed a rat bigger than it was.
As opposed to my cat, which we're pretty sure brings the freaking mice *into* the house and turns them loose
I heavily considered tracks but ultimately decided on using flush mount QC plates from inline Fab. I can swap stuff out easily if I want to and don't have the tracks in the way of my other stuff nor the junk that constantly falls into them. Much easier to keep clean. However, I had room to have 4 of those plates and even another spot i could easily put one. If I had less bench space tracks would probably be the way I went with it.
I found these pull outs to be pretty handy too.
I found these pull outs to be pretty handy too.
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That ex's cat had LOTS more tape on it than yours, stuck to it's paws, tail, head, all over. Plus it was alone without help for 8.5 hours. Try many more pieces of tape and watch the reaction.
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