@snake31, we might be crossing wires here and I’m not trying to be difficult. McMillan never made bottom metals to my knowledge. What bottom metal was the McMillan stock inletted for? What bottom metal do you have on hand?m40a1 mcmillan stock.
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@snake31, we might be crossing wires here and I’m not trying to be difficult. McMillan never made bottom metals to my knowledge. What bottom metal was the McMillan stock inletted for? What bottom metal do you have on hand?m40a1 mcmillan stock.
How flush is the bottom metal to the stock when you fit it in there?yea i was just piddling around just to get an idea as to what it would look like with the action screwed in to the stock. i havent had mine built yet as im still waiting for the lugged scope mount before i send her off to be built. and thats when i realized that the screws weren't able to reach the action threads. so maybe thats the issue..it needs to be professionally inletted before it will screw in right.
Probably just needs longer bolts or they possibly packed the wrong ones with it
I will have to pull my A1 apart to measure themdo you know what length of screw is needed for the front and back?
Since it’s not any true clone correct stock
You got that backwards, HomeSkillet. The FBI rifles were in M70 contour McMillan stocks, not HTG’s.It is clone correct for an FBI-M40A1. They still used Unertl and were built by the 2112 for them. This picture isnt the correct stock but they do exist.
View attachment 8490187
Edit here a better one
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Appreciate this....been looking for one. ThanksI saw that yesterday. I tried to add it to my cart and got an error message. Then it was gone from the listing page when I refreshed.
I’m glad someone else noticed it. I thought I might have seen a mirage. These Smear Stocks do funny things to a man’s mind. I did snag the HTG Urban Smear on Saturday. Since it’s not any true clone correct stock, I can just build it out with my excess M40xx parts pile.
There is/was an M40A3 MOD1 also. It had the deep hook in the buttstock. Not my thing, but it seemed like an odd variation.
View attachment 8490165
ETA: I just checked McM site. That’s a new one. So that’s two this week.
I saw that yesterday. I tried to add it to my cart and got an error message. Then it was gone from the listing page when I refreshed.
I’m glad someone else noticed it. I thought I might have seen a mirage. These Smear Stocks do funny things to a man’s mind. I did snag the HTG Urban Smear on Saturday. Since it’s not any true clone correct stock, I can just build it out with my excess M40xx parts pile.
There is/was an M40A3 MOD1 also. It had the deep hook in the buttstock. Not my thing, but it seemed like an odd variation
View attachment 8490165
ETA: I just checked McM site. That’s a new one. So that’s two this week.
I just listed a M40A1 smear in the Accessories for sale section if anyone is lookingIf anyone is looking there's a big hook A4 for DD Ross bottom metal on McMillan's site right now, plus a couple inletted for M5 DBMs as well
Now to just start collecting all the DD Ross access. Lol.
That’s been a while back lolThanks again gents! Snagged that A4 for my early A3 build. It'll go along with the contract barrel I got from Stevo. Seems like eons ago.
Stupid question. How does the model 70 floorplate mate up to the 700 action? Do the bolt holes align?
The floorplate is shortened and cut to fit the distance between the front stock screw hole and the front of the M70 trigger guard (since the M70 bottom metal and M70 trigger guard are 2 separate pieces). The M70 trigger guard also needs to be shortened and fit to size. You also need an escutcheon embedded in the stock for the front screw on the M70 trigger guard. The back screw of the M70 trigger guard uses the rear M700 stock screw hole, and the front of the M70 bottom metal uses the front M700 stock screw hole.Stupid question. How does the model 70 floorplate mate up to the 700 action? Do the bolt holes align?
Made cleaning easier with all the crud we would drag it through and pack into it, enabled unloading without repeated chambering and clearing right along with clearing a jam was actually possible, and a piece of rigger’s tape made it not pop open on accident anyhow. That was standard field prep for the rifle right along with a taped cat eye on the objective lens and taping up the muzzle.I've never understood why they didn't go for an ADL solution on the M40A1.
"Bulletproof" and impossible to open the foorplate by accident.
@Redmanss gave a great answer above, the floorplate is absolutely necessary at minimum for a military bolt action sniper rifle. The ADL is just a trigger guard, so it's far more difficult to do all the stuff Redmanss discusses above. Additionally, the Corps didn't use the Remington BDL bottom metal because it's aluminum and they needed steel bottom metal (lessons learned from Vietnam). There weren't many options for the Corps, but since they have in-house (RTE shop) 2112 armorers, they did have the ability to purchase COTS items and modify them as they saw fit.I've never understood why they didn't go for an ADL solution on the M40A1.
"Bulletproof" and impossible to open the foorplate by accident.
Glad that worked for you. Having a hinged floor plate worked great for us, and we opened it all the time to clean our rifle and empty the magazine post mission. We Marines love simple, but we also love versatile and even though a fixed floor plate is cheap and sturdy, we splurged a bit and went hinged.Well, I used an "ADL" rifle, based on a M98 Mauser action, for many years in the Norwegian NG.
The foorplate on these were never opened.
My thoughts are that anything that can be kept away from Murphy is a good thing. Even a missing rigger's tape.
I guess you must have known someone to get that done that fast! Lol.
Thank you for your first person, in the action, view of how shit works.Made cleaning easier with all the crud we would drag it through and pack into it, enabled unloading without repeated chambering and clearing right along with clearing a jam was actually possible, and a piece of rigger’s tape made it not pop open on accident anyhow. That was standard field prep for the rifle right along with a taped cat eye on the objective lens and taping up the muzzle.
I know a few! LOL!I guess you must have known someone to get that done that fast! Lol.
My build I did the 5R rifling and 1-10 twist.Frank,
You might have mentioned it already, but this thread is 10 pages. Did you use your 5R or conventional rifling? What twist? I know it’s not a matter of accuracy on target, I’ve read your site and posts about 5R and conventional. I guess what I mean is do you need traditional rifling and twist to compete in vintage sniper matches. I know a lot of members shoot in those. Clone/replica building can come down to the unseen details for many. For me, I’ll take the best potential accuracy with the correct barrel contour. I’ll have too much money invested not seek best performance.
Besides, if I can say, “This is the same barrel Frank Green uses,” I’ll feel like I have some range cred.
Thanks,
Greg
Doesn't surprise me Greg!Thank you for the thorough answer and insight.
I suppose rifling could be considered internal fluting, so that works for me.
I have been in Army supply for 15 years, full time National Guard. Government acquisition is a weird place. The things we see in FEDLOG are pretty funny sometimes. When it comes to extras, the non issued, cool to have stuff, I think vendors get creative when they apply for an NSN. It’s probably to get their stuff ordered at the unit level without raising a flag.
For example, when Oakley M Frames were the cool eyewear, the FEDLOG description was, FaceShield, Industrial. We could order any time we wanted because no one up the funding chain would question safety gear. Automatic knives were another. Knife, Boy Scout was one, and the Benchmade Triage is a Rescue Tool. I also always ordered an odd number so it looked like I had a specific need, and wasn’t bulk ordering Cool-Guy knives and flashlights for the Joes.
Greg
Also even on other prints/drawings... the mil spec might just say 5 groove but in fact they mean 5R. It just didn't get spelled out that way on the drawing. I've got mil drawings for 6.5's, 30 and 338cal barrels that show it that way. It's a typo on the drawing.Frank,
You might have mentioned it already, but this thread is 10 pages. Did you use your 5R or conventional rifling? What twist? I know it’s not a matter of accuracy on target, I’ve read your site and posts about 5R and conventional. I guess what I mean is do you need traditional rifling and twist to compete in vintage sniper matches. I know a lot of members shoot in those. Clone/replica building can come down to the unseen details for many. For me, I’ll take the best potential accuracy with the correct barrel contour. I’ll have too much money invested not seek best performance.
Besides, if I can say, “This is the same barrel Frank Green uses,” I’ll feel like I have some range cred.
Thanks,
Greg