Should I re-tool my suppressor mount system? If so, what should I go with?

BuildingConceptsllc

BuildingConceptsllc

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    • Nov 13, 2020
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    #1
    I now have a decent amount of cans and almost all are on the YHM phantom mount set up. They lock up well and if you know how to adjust the bottom spring loaded part on the brake they all lock up fully with zero movement, so not an issue there as some have had complaints about....

    That said, at this point, I won't be swapping them around much. The plan is to not swap at all, so I'm trying to decide if I want to:

    1 . Direct thread all or most(only concern here is carbon build up and getting them off for cleaning, my crown , ect)

    2. Switch to a new mount and brake set up. (Pretty much gonna cost me $1.5-2k

    3. Direct thread most AND switch mounts on some others where it makes sense.

    4. Just get a few more phantom hub mounts and call it a day.

    It looks like the Q stuff or Reardon with cherry bomb brake is ideal as I always shoot suppressed. I'm not concerned about having a good brake other than what it could do for me when the suppressor is on it.(ie take the abuse, help suppressor, ect)

    Thanks
     
    #2
    Well, I guess I’ll go first. And take this for what this is from a hunter and occasional fun range day shooter. Several of my firearms have their own suppressor (with a Plan B). And have a Cherry Bomb mount. It makes it easy to remove and reset for rifle cleaning, return to zero is always consistent, and sometimes I like to swap suppressors around on different rifles just cause. And the CB/Plan B makes this easy too. I have not had any lock up issues with the CB in a suppressor. Actually the opposite problem of trying to get one off a host rifle after slathering the threads with Rocksett while mounting. Cannot speak for the Reardon although they seem to get good reviews.
     
    #3
    BamaSE said:
    Well, I guess I’ll go first. And take this for what this is from a hunter and occasional fun range day shooter. Several of my firearms have their own suppressor (with a Plan B). And have a Cherry Bomb mount. It makes it easy to remove and reset for rifle cleaning, return to zero is always consistent, and sometimes I like to swap suppressors around on different rifles just cause. And the CB/Plan B makes this easy too. I have not had any lock up issues with the CB in a suppressor. Actually the opposite problem of trying to get one off a host rifle after slathering the threads with Rocksett while mounting. Cannot speak for the Reardon although they seem to get good reviews.
    Click to expand...
    Thank you for the reply. With the yhm, : it's heavy, and on some, in order toget it locked in perfectly, you have to adjust spring loaded collar, which gets it locked up tight, but also can make it difficult to remove and just kind of a pain to do. That's probably my main issues with the yhm and I hate to further invest into it if there is better and no downside to getting the better system, which is also lighter
     
    #4
    There’s about a 3 oz diff in weight and about an inch difference in length between the YHM phantom and the Rearden/cherry bomb systems. I made the switch for most of my guns, but I have 2 that still wear the phantom brakes. The only real down side to the Rearden/Q stuff is the cost of entry. $1500 on mounts and adapters is a pretty big pull to swallow.


    1724468537535.jpeg

    1724468565029.jpeg

    1724468613825.jpeg


    BTW, how do you adjust the phantom collars for lock up? That would eliminate my biggest complaint with their system. Thanks.
     
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    #6
    hlee said:
    There’s about a 3 oz diff in weight and about an inch difference in length between the YHM phantom and the Rearden/cherry bomb systems. I made the switch for most of my guns, but I have 2 that still wear the phantom brakes. The only real down side to the Rearden/Q stuff is the cost of entry. $1500 on mounts and adapters is a pretty big pull to swallow.


    View attachment 8486517
    View attachment 8486518
    View attachment 8486519

    BTW, how do you adjust the phantom collars for lock up? That would eliminate my biggest complaint with their system. Thanks.
    Click to expand...
    You turn the can pretty hard and when the teeth get point to point you can use a flat head or tip of knife ect and stick it in the joint there and move the collar just enough that it will go to the next tooth, making it lock up really tight for the ones you need it to. So you are adjusting that collar on the brake more so than the mount
     
    #9
    hlee said:
    There’s about a 3 oz diff in weight and about an inch difference in length between the YHM phantom and the Rearden/cherry bomb systems. I made the switch for most of my guns, but I have 2 that still wear the phantom brakes. The only real down side to the Rearden/Q stuff is the cost of entry. $1500 on mounts and adapters is a pretty big pull to swallow.


    View attachment 8486517
    View attachment 8486518
    View attachment 8486519

    BTW, how do you adjust the phantom collars for lock up? That would eliminate my biggest complaint with their system. Thanks.
    Click to expand...
    That's good info. 3oz isn't a ton but it's not nothing hanging off there either. Not sure it's enough on its own to warrant a change either
     
    #10
    I have 2 7.62 Phantoms, SS and Ti. All but 1 of my rifles that have a threaded barrel have a YHM f/h. (The 1 exception is a Henry 45-70 that has a thread-on Hybrid 46.) I've never seen a reason to use anything other than YHM mounts. They lock up tight, price isn't bad, and I have no complaints about accuracy. I have at least 1/2 a dozen extra.
     
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    #11
    Usually solved through a combination. Autos get X bolts get Y some special cases get direct thread.

    I’m going through this myself and have a good bit of Area 419 ecosystem for sale (with HUB suppressor adapter) as I rejigger what I’m doing. I think for most uses the A419 Hellfire or Sidewinder systems are hard to pass up.
     
    #12
    Well I ended up ordering 3 of the Cyclone Mini brakes(titanium) (SD Tactical Arms) and 3 of the taper mounts (also Ti). I may regret the titanium but I figure with both brake and mount being Ti then maybe it will work out. This is just for 3 bolt guns and then I'm going to just stick with the yhm on the AR's for now. There's more of the AR's and with these new mounts I will have some extra yhm set ups to put wherever I want
     
    #15
    The Area 419 suppressor mounts are good to go and I have not had any issues with them coming loose. I was already invested in the Hellfire muzzle brakes so it made sense for me to with the Area 419 suppressor mounts.
     
    #16
    A419. Rokset(tiny bit, like 2 drops) and the supressor adapter. Blue loctite with hellfire adapter. Left hand thread makes the supressor never back off. I've been very happy. Have 3 cans in jail, all will be getting a419 system.
     
    #17
    Dead air keymo for semi autos. Direct thread or reardon for everything else.

    I have the A419 system as well but don’t use it anymore as my suppressors do double duty. I didn’t want A419 brakes on my AR’s.
     
    #18
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    You turn the can pretty hard and when the teeth get point to point you can use a flat head or tip of knife ect and stick it in the joint there and move the collar just enough that it will go to the next tooth, making it lock up really tight for the ones you need it to. So you are adjusting that collar on the brake more so than the mount
    Click to expand...
    Ok, cool. This is what I do, and I have a set of flat-jaw pliers that make it pretty easy. And, I found that a light coat of motor oil on the taper of the mount can get you that last little bit of turn necessary to lock up on the next tooth. But, I have one combination that- no matter the effort- will back off just a bit but the collar just won’t click over to the next tooth. This, and having a pile of unused cherry bomb brakes (another story), lead me to Rearden…
     
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    #19
    I’m late to the party but I like the DA Xeno mounts. Taper and left hand threads. Works good from my use. Torque the mount to can and muzzle device to barrel, then a good firm hand tight when screwing the can to the host. I haven’t done any crazy mag dumps to test for hard use however, but hasn’t walked with rapid carbine shots or 10 round strings at a PRS match though.
     
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    #22
    In your situation I would probably just DT what I could, and swap over to a mounting system of your choice where it makes sense to do so.

    I personally like the Rearden stuff. The Plan B pattern is very simple and elegant, and the taper does work to keep carbon out of the mounting threads. There's no secondary retention, which would be a consideration for some applications.

    Lots of different options, all with their pros and cons.
     
    #23
    kthomas said:
    In your situation I would probably just DT what I could, and swap over to a mounting system of your choice where it makes sense to do so.

    I personally like the Rearden stuff. The Plan B pattern is very simple and elegant, and the taper does work to keep carbon out of the mounting threads. There's no secondary retention, which would be a consideration for some applications.

    Lots of different options, all with their pros and cons.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns
     
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    #24
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns
    Click to expand...

    With some proper maintenance this shouldn't be an issue. Even Rearden mounts need to be cleaned periodically, so it really doesn't matter if you go DT or another mounting system, none will be completely maintenance free.

    Clean the threads every 300 rounds or so and you shouldn't experience any issues with DT.
     
    #25
    kthomas said:
    With some proper maintenance this shouldn't be an issue. Even Rearden mounts need to be cleaned periodically, so it really doesn't matter if you go DT or another mounting system, none will be completely maintenance free.

    Clean the threads every 300 rounds or so and you shouldn't experience any issues with DT.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah that's probably what I should do at least on some.
     
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    #26
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    I now have a decent amount of cans and almost all are on the YHM phantom mount set up. They lock up well and if you know how to adjust the bottom spring loaded part on the brake they all lock up fully with zero movement, so not an issue there as some have had complaints about....

    That said, at this point, I won't be swapping them around much. The plan is to not swap at all, so I'm trying to decide if I want to:

    1 . Direct thread all or most(only concern here is carbon build up and getting them off for cleaning, my crown , ect)

    2. Switch to a new mount and brake set up. (Pretty much gonna cost me $1.5-2k

    3. Direct thread most AND switch mounts on some others where it makes sense.

    4. Just get a few more phantom hub mounts and call it a day.

    It looks like the Q stuff or Reardon with cherry bomb brake is ideal as I always shoot suppressed. I'm not concerned about having a good brake other than what it could do for me when the suppressor is on it.(ie take the abuse, help suppressor, ect)

    Thanks
    Click to expand...
    If I was to redo all mine (which I'm not far from probably doing, because KeyMo is heavy as fuck, and the brakes are long, and I prefer just to have a tapered LH thread with no brake on the end system... I'd probably go with the titanium Area 419 Hellfire system. But to retool for mine would cost me a good $3K+... Might just start with the bolt actions, and a couple cans, then just order a few mounts and adapters at at time...
     
    #27
    FuhQ said:
    If I was to redo all mine (which I'm not far from probably doing, because KeyMo is heavy as fuck, and the brakes are long, and I prefer just to have a tapered LH thread with no brake on the end system... I'd probably go with the titanium Area 419 Hellfire system. But to retool for mine would cost me a good $3K+... Might just start with the bolt actions, and a couple cans, then just order a few mounts and adapters at at time...
    Click to expand...
    Yeah I'm trying out these Titanium brakes and Titanium taper mounts from SD Tactical Arms and see how that goes. They look good but if not, they will work with any other B mount set up and I will likely move to Rearden and cherry bombs
     
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    #28
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    Yeah I'm trying out these Titanium brakes and Titanium taper mounts from SD Tactical Arms and see how that goes. They look good but if not, they will work with any other B mount set up and I will likely move to Rearden and cherry bombs
    Click to expand...

    One word of caution in regards to the Cherry bombs: they don't have any external wrench flats, so if they get stuck in the suppressor you are hooped.

    All the Rearden stuff has external wrench flats.
     
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    #29
    kthomas said:
    One word of caution in regards to the Cherry bombs: they don't have any external wrench flats, so if they get stuck in the suppressor you are hooped.

    All the Rearden stuff has external wrench flats.
    Click to expand...
    Hmmm. I didn't realize that. Yeah that's gonna be a deal breaker there. Gonna have to have a flat on it or socket end or something.

    I just like the cherry bomb because it seems like it would work the best for only being used with a Suppressor. I don't care about it being a brake, for me it's a sacrificial initial blast containment qd mount only. Thanks for the heads up there
     
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    #30
    Here’s another data point. I had a rifle at the range today; Q cherry bomb brake and Rearden Atlas mount. I had hand tightened the can onto the brake before shooting. Towards the end of the session, the suppressor was toasty, not glowing or smoking but definitely too hot to touch. Anyway, I wanted to remove it, but it wasn’t budging. Two hands on can (with a Silencer shop silencer removal tool pot holder thingy), stock between legs, red face, the whole works. It was on there. I said “fuck it, I don’t need to know the poi shift” and shot some more before heading home. Once home, and with the can cool, I gave it a go at removing the can again. It came off easily. And, in the pic below you can see how well the taper does at keeping fouling out of the threads. I have read that if you shoot enough, the carbon that builds up in front of the taper will carbon lock the supressor, but I haven’t experienced that.

    IMG_6384.jpeg
     
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    #31
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    Hmmm. I didn't realize that. Yeah that's gonna be a deal breaker there. Gonna have to have a flat on it or socket end or something.

    I just like the cherry bomb because it seems like it would work the best for only being used with a Suppressor. I don't care about it being a brake, for me it's a sacrificial initial blast containment qd mount only. Thanks for the heads up there
    Click to expand...
    Unless you are using a Q can, the lack of wrench flats is a non issue. In the event that you stick a mount in the adapter, spin the adapter off the can. The cherry bomb has a point for a socket built into the front.

    IMG_6385.jpeg

    But, if you ARE using a Q can, yeah the lack of wrench flats on the brake is a pita if it gets stuck in the can.
     
    #32
    hlee said:
    Here’s another data point. I had a rifle at the range today; Q cherry bomb brake and Rearden Atlas mount. I had hand tightened the can onto the brake before shooting. Towards the end of the session, the suppressor was toasty, not glowing or smoking but definitely too hot to touch. Anyway, I wanted to remove it, but it wasn’t budging. Two hands on can (with a Silencer shop silencer removal tool pot holder thingy), stock between legs, red face, the whole works. It was on there. I said “fuck it, I don’t need to know the poi shift” and shot some more before heading home. Once home, and with the can cool, I gave it a go at removing the can again. It came off easily. And, in the pic below you can see how well the taper does at keeping fouling out of the threads. I have read that if you shoot enough, the carbon that builds up in front of the taper will carbon lock the supressor, but I haven’t experienced that.

    View attachment 8489787
    Click to expand...
    I'm sure it would as would any interface without cleaning at some point. It does look like it did a great job of keeping the crud off the threads of the brake
     
    #33
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns
    Click to expand...
    You will always get carbon on the crown. My DT suppressor is my favorite setup actually, though to be fair it lives on that gun. Stays tight with class 3a thread fitment and just some minor carbon buildup on on or two threads closest to the crown after a couple hundred rounds.
     
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    #34
    TheOE800 said:
    You will always get carbon on the crown. My DT suppressor is my favorite setup actually, though to be fair it lives on that gun. Stays tight with class 3a thread fitment and just some minor carbon buildup on on or two threads closest to the crown after a couple hundred rounds.
    Click to expand...
    Do you put blue or red lock tite or antisieze on it?
     
    #37
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    Yeah, I'd like to direct thread but I always kind of wonder if it's going to cause me issues with carbon building up on the crown and/or if it will get locked on the barrel with carbon???? I've never direct threaded one before but that would be ideal on the bolt guns
    Click to expand...
    I have all DT, and have two cans in jail. One Surefire and one TBAC Dominus SR.

    Never had issues with DT on bolt guns, but nonetheless I heeded the siren song of secondary-retention…on bolt guns, at least, it’ll probably end in stuck cans and expensive tears (in the form of muzzle brakes) lol.

    I’ve read to always remove your can after a shoot due to the carbon inside the can attracting water vapor, which may slowly corrode your crown or bore. Seems to be more of an issue in humid areas. No idea if true.

    I can’t fit my long suppressed bolt actions in my safe anyway. I have noticed cans being harder than expected to remove after a shoot, and I can only imagine it just gets harder and harder if you leave ‘em on.

    The Surefire is going on an AR as I’ve had DT cans start to back off on them. I swear I’ve had DT cans occasionally back off on bolt actions, but can’t remember the last time that happened. I don’t often clean the threads on can nor barrel, so perhaps slightly dirty threads help in this regard? I do lube threads if I think they need it.

    Pro-tip: lube only the female threads if you want less mess.

    Since I unscrew the can after each shoot, I get to inspect the crown a lot. It’s easy to clean with a q-tip and solvent. Of course, at my rate of removal I see negligible crown carbon build up, just a dusting. I always expect a bunch of carbon on the crown but there’s always barely anything there.

    However, I do clean the bore after each shoot, usually so maybe that’s a factor? Although…I didn’t used to do that and I don’t remember any significant carbon crown buildup then.

    The muzzle face has more carbon on it. But that doesn’t matter with my “unscrewing schedule” lol. I occasionally clean it mostly off.

    I think you’ll have the same amount of carbon buildup on the muzzle face/crown using a brake + suppressor combo. And with a brake in the way (and probably red locktited on), I imagine it’ll be harder to access the crown in in order to clean it anyway.

    So why the hell did I buy the TBAC? Surefire, yeah, for the unscrewing-can AR, but TBAC for the bolts?

    If I’m honest, first-world problems.
    1. I kinda don’t like the (small) length of time that it takes to unscrew a DT can. I was jealous of vids showing 1-2-3 etc turns and pop! it’s off.
    2. I have way more guns than suppressors, so there have been situations where I’ve played “musical chairs” with my cans.
    But like I alluded to earlier, that hot, fast, and crazy secondary-retention chick will probably be awesome to bang for a while…and then the tears start 💰😢 💦
     
    Last edited:
    #39
    I've tried a number of different hub mounts and thus far I really like the Griffin Dual-lok. It has the same benefits of plan B (or A) while also having a secondary lock that will not ever come loose. There's also a bunch of different brakes, comps, FH's that work with it which is nice.
     
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    #40
    pinkhair said:
    I've tried a number of different hub mounts and thus far I really like the Griffin Dual-lok. It has the same benefits of plan B (or A) while also having a secondary lock that will not ever come loose. There's also a bunch of different brakes, comps, FH's that work with it which is nice.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah that does look like a good set up. Of course it would be pretty expensive for .e to switch over everything to it but that might be a good option for the ar's if I move on from thr yhm mounts
     
    #43
    Wall_Element said:
    that's the same thing.

    Your barrel presumably has a 90 degree shoulder on standard thread, you add an adpater which also has a 90 degree shoulder with a left hand therad.

    So basically direct thread on top of direct thread with two 90 degree shoulders.
    Click to expand...

    Some simple reading would help you understand that’s incorrect. 419 is a taper system.

    www.area419.com

    Hellfire Universal Adapter

    Hellfire Universal Adapter
    www.area419.com www.area419.com
     
    #44
    Maurygold said:
    Some simple reading would help you understand that’s incorrect. 419 is a taper system.

    www.area419.com

    Hellfire Universal Adapter

    Hellfire Universal Adapter
    www.area419.com www.area419.com
    Click to expand...
    I am aware how these are marketed.

    The reality, however, is that they are simply direct thread with 90 degree shoulders for the supressor mounts.

    https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ounts-do-not-actually-use-the-tapers.7097480/

    It really is unfortunate how vague and unclear this is. Many have been misled.
     
    #45
    Only the brake uses the taper, but I don’t think I ever had a can come loose or off center using A419 production of the last two years.
     
    #46
    Wall_Element said:
    I am aware how these are marketed.

    The reality, however, is that they are simply direct thread with 90 degree shoulders for the supressor mounts.

    https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ounts-do-not-actually-use-the-tapers.7097480/

    It really is unfortunate how vague and unclear this is. Many have been misled.
    Click to expand...

    Honestly no one cares about your 419 crusade. And all you did was link me to a thread of people also telling you they don’t care about your annoying fake crusade and they all agree how awesome 419 is.

    The 419 system has been outstanding for tons of people and many have personally experienced some convenience over the direct thread (why they spend money to use it)
     
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    #47
    Maurygold said:
    Honestly no one cares about your 419 crusade. And all you did was link me to a thread of people also telling you they don’t care about your annoying fake crusade and they all agree how awesome 419 is.

    The 419 system has been outstanding for tons of people and many have personally experienced some convenience over the direct thread (why they spend money to use it
    Click to expand...

    Okay.

    Maurygold said:
    419 is a taper system.
    Click to expand...

    Is it?
     
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