Does it taper with suppressors?
I think this thread is about suppressors, no?
Interesting. Please tell me more here? I might just invest in them for this.
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Should I re-tool my suppressor mount system? If so, what should I go with?
- Thread starter BuildingConceptsllc
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- qd mount suppressor mount
I think this thread is about suppressors, no?
Interesting. Please tell me more here? I might just invest in them for this.
Yeah but we are talking silencers and they mate up on the square shoulders between adaptors.
So your taper crusade is just as fucking stupid in this thread as anyone else’s.
Spicy take - I only mentioned the taper part as one difference over direct thread, even if it is on muzzle brakes.
I don’t care what you use the 419 is awesome and has some pros and cons over direct.
That said it’s among my personal favorite two attachment methods
My TacOps changed my mind on direct thread. It fits very tight, is concentric, and has never backed off. In fact, when you snap tighten it that last bit it’s feels just as snug as any small taper can out there.
If you’re not moving the can, such as the case with my TacOps, DT is an easy solution for me to recommend assuming they all fit together like this. Your HUB DT adapter and rando muzzle thread may not fit together the same way though.
My TacOps works great as well. No issues there.
I've had other rifles however that couldn't even keep a muzzle brake tight.
Shitty tolerance threads are not problem with the DT suppressor solution, rather a defective muzzle job no?
Agreed, but you are relying on those tight tolerances in order for that solution to work. Tight threads and really square shoulders are required for DT to work correctly.
Different mounting options mitigate that to a degree.
And this is my concern about direct threading cans. It just doesn't seem like I'd want to have any issue be directly on my crown if there is any problem, not to mention coming loose like you said.
YHM SRX thread/taper brakes is what I'll begin going with.
Figured I'd mention such, just as an option to look at is all.
Suppressors need to be Hub compatible for the SrX adapters.
Figured I'd mention such, just as an option to look at is all.
Suppressors need to be Hub compatible for the SrX adapters.
If your shit can’t hold a muzzle device tight the solution doesn’t matter.
If your shit can’t hold a muzzle device tight the solution doesn’t matter.
Rockset?
Yeah I looked at those too. Since I currently have so many extra yhm mounts and brakes I have been testing the pairs to get the ones that work together well. After removing 3 of the set ups to direct thread (though they won't stay that way and will get a mount once I get what I ordered wrong corrected) , I have enough mounts and brakes to see which ones lock up together perfectly so, after that I may just leave them alone on the AR's.
Side note: in trying to remove another mount from an R6 can, I put it in the ultra sonic with simple green and I removed a bunch of the cerakote. So don't do that guys. My buddy can kote it for me for free or super cheap since he does it about every day anyway so no biggie. I still haven't gotten that mount off but I'm gonna put the can in my barrel vise and see if I can get it off.
HUB to both Tilt Bbl Pistol and Rifle Interface?
Suppressor is both Intermediate (300 Supers, 5.56, 308) and Handgun (9mm) rated. It also has a HUB interface. Does there exist a HUB adapter that will adapt to 9mm tilting barrel handgun (piston, I dont think there is another system that works in this app), and also adapt to non-tilting barrel...
www.snipershide.com
Might want to read this one first lol
HUB to both Tilt Bbl Pistol and Rifle Interface?
Suppressor is both Intermediate (300 Supers, 5.56, 308) and Handgun (9mm) rated. It also has a HUB interface. Does there exist a HUB adapter that will adapt to 9mm tilting barrel handgun (piston, I dont think there is another system that works in this app), and also adapt to non-tilting barrel...
www.snipershide.com
As prev mentioned, my experience is that DT works great on bolt guns. Reubenski was a fan of DT too. If you let the threads get a little dirty it helps (not gritty, just not surgerically clean).
However, I have had cans walk off DT on ARs.
Currently have a Surefire and TBAC Dominus SR system in jail…so nonetheless the siren song of secondary retention has lured me to the rocky shoals of sadness and financial ruin lol
Yeah I know. I spent over $ 500 on 3 mounts and 3 brakes (all Ti) and I ordered the wrong brakes I guess that don't work with the mounts so now I've got to swap them.HUB to both Tilt Bbl Pistol and Rifle Interface?
Suppressor is both Intermediate (300 Supers, 5.56, 308) and Handgun (9mm) rated. It also has a HUB interface. Does there exist a HUB adapter that will adapt to 9mm tilting barrel handgun (piston, I dont think there is another system that works in this app), and also adapt to non-tilting barrel...
Might want to read this one first lol
HUB to both Tilt Bbl Pistol and Rifle Interface?
Suppressor is both Intermediate (300 Supers, 5.56, 308) and Handgun (9mm) rated. It also has a HUB interface. Does there exist a HUB adapter that will adapt to 9mm tilting barrel handgun (piston, I dont think there is another system that works in this app), and also adapt to non-tilting barrel...
As prev mentioned, my experience is that DT works great on bolt guns. Reubenski was a fan of DT too. If you let the threads get a little dirty it helps (not gritty, just not surgerically clean).
However, I have had cans walk off DT on ARs.
Currently have a Surefire and TBAC Dominus SR system in jail…so nonetheless the siren song of secondary retention has lured me to the rocky shoals of sadness and financial ruin lol
If your shit can’t hold a muzzle device tight the solution doesn’t matter.
Yes and no. There's a bit more nuance to it then just that.
So, in swapping around my stuff I ended up with one mount and brake for a 1/2 thread, that wouldn't quite get to where I could move the spring ring and make it sit into the notch tight enough to not have some movement.
So what I did was chucked up thr brake in a drill with a bolt and nuts, and filed down the taper edge that the brake contacts and stops again, just a little. That allowed the brake to go into the mount more. It was enough, to allow me to get the ring to clip in in the next slot and get solid lock up with zero wiggle. Might want to give it a try if you have one that has that issue.
If you do go DT, I found this technique to work to limit cans backing off.
Don’t spin them on like James Bond, all one hand only etc. Gotta put some ooopmh into it.
Place buttstock between feet while standing, scope away from you. Don’t want to accidentally torque the scope or mount between your muscular thighs lol.
Spin can on. After it stops, back off a little (1/4 turn?) and grab can with both hands. Lock elbows. Quickly rotate upper body to “snap” can on.
I find I can impart greater force this way than using raw grip strength alone.
I have also used the “shoot five and then retighten” method. It works, but is sort of a pain to remember. Plus, my range doesn’t like guns pointing up while in hand. Too many holes in the roof lol.
Don’t spin them on like James Bond, all one hand only etc. Gotta put some ooopmh into it.
Place buttstock between feet while standing, scope away from you. Don’t want to accidentally torque the scope or mount between your muscular thighs lol.
Spin can on. After it stops, back off a little (1/4 turn?) and grab can with both hands. Lock elbows. Quickly rotate upper body to “snap” can on.
I find I can impart greater force this way than using raw grip strength alone.
I have also used the “shoot five and then retighten” method. It works, but is sort of a pain to remember. Plus, my range doesn’t like guns pointing up while in hand. Too many holes in the roof lol.
I think I'm gonna end up using these Ti mounts and brakes from SD Tactical, I just need to swap out the brake because I accidentally got the wrong style but I think they will swap them for me and then that's what I will use on the bolt gun. Basically a hub mount and a cherry bomb looking brake with a socket end
I do that same technique though for my cans DT and my qd action barrels. It works. I would likely use high temp red lock tight too though . It has worked well for me
I think the “lock elbows” bit is the key.
Great minds…lol. However, my mind is near mush. Great mush minds think alike?
Also going to red Loctite the brakes on for my new setups, whenever they are approved. I’ll prob love one or both the mounts so much I’ll prematurely ditch all my DT. Then, thousands later, I’ll find that I’m carbon-locking the shit out of all of them
and mourn for DT!I guess, with Surefire, I can just shoot them off
but I’ve seen gas leak out of their mounts. I hear it’s the Warcomp brakes that tend to be the issue but I’m not using those
Good luck with your choice(s)!
You will carbon lock any Surefire. The Warcomp fastest as it’s the leakiest, but I’ve had to shoot them off my braked carbines too.I guess, with Surefire, I can just shoot them off
YOU LISTEN WELL, BROTHER!
You and I shall launch these pitiful human Quieters of Lead off our mighty Mjölnir! TOGETHER BROTHER!!!
Prob more like this
I'm a little surprised that xeno hasn't taken off more than it has. The rearden stuff has a cult following on some other sites, and I'm sure its fine, but why not go with LH threads?
I get dead air had the big fuck show with the S5, but everything else they've done has been fine I think. Bad timing with that and the xeno, I guess.
Either way, for something that checks all the buzzword boxes like length, weight, taper, etc., seems like the xeno does that. The LH thread gives it a leg up over the other stuff IMO.
I get dead air had the big fuck show with the S5, but everything else they've done has been fine I think. Bad timing with that and the xeno, I guess.
Either way, for something that checks all the buzzword boxes like length, weight, taper, etc., seems like the xeno does that. The LH thread gives it a leg up over the other stuff IMO.
Yeah it does seem like it's great but Dead Air has been awful, and I'm a huge fan. I have 3 Nomads because they are such great cans. That said, the S5 is not the only issues DA has had and the worst of it is how they have handled their very loyal customers. Their warranty handling has been terrible. The Customer Service is the biggest issue any suppressor maker can have. With what all it takes to get a Suppressor and the cost involved, ANY issue needs to be handled quickly and done well and they did just the opposite with many folks
On my TI most of my mounts lock up tight. With my SS most don't and I tighten it down then back off one click. I can't say I have had any repeatability issues with either suppressor or method. My head says I like the way the TI can locks up better. My target says it doesn't make any diffrence.
