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Poll - What mid-range price AR-15?
- Thread starter USAF Ret
- Start date
Only thing is it won't chamber my reloads. Besides that, it runs like a champ. But, as a reloader, that is a showstopper. I am looking at a 223 Wylde to give me a bit more tolerance.
Where are the rounds sticking in the chamber? Assuming you already have a 5.56 chamber, going to 223 Wylde isn't going to do what you want.
They are jamming in the chamber and not fully seating. The brass had been sized, trimmed, and chamferred. It is specific to the rifle, but it is the one I have for my defense rifle. I have a 223 Wylde in a hunting rifle and they chamber perfectly. Now, that being said, I might be able to get another 5.56 and it do fine, but the 223 Wylde is more forgiving in tolerance. So, I am getting another rifle strictly for defense, but in 223 Wylde and a pinned and welded 14.5" barrel with a suppressor host. So, there are other reasons besides that.
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Have you compared chamber prints of Wylde and 5.56 side by side? Assuming both are properly machined Wylde isn't any looser in any meaningful way. You have a rifle specific problem, not tied to the chambering.
I have not. I would need to take it to a gunsmith and spend more than the rifle is probably worth. Excuse to upgrade, anyway. It will be a backup and I will just shoot factory ammo from it.
I read up and see where the 223 Wylde does not really help with chambering, so it is probably just an issue with that rifle. I am not sure why, but would need a smith to look at it. I have cleaned the crap out of the chamber and still will not take a handload. I also put a pretty decent crimp on it to ensure it wasn't getting caught on the edge of the case.
Are you using brass that was fire formed to that chamber? If not, you might have a bulge at the base of the case that might need a small based die to fix it.
That was what I was going to try next is the brass that I had already shot, but got sidetracked with other projects. Also, this upgrade is part of me really upgrading my entire collection. I spent a lot of time sale and deal buying stuff just because it was a good price vs. something that I really wanted.
May I inquire as to what you're reloading ?. Powder.bullet ,charge . When You state it won't chamber ,why is that , Casing isn't properly resized ?, OAL is wrong ? . Need details to correct the problem .
The .223 Wylde chamber. The chamber is made with the external dimensions and leade angle found in the military 5.56×45mm NATO cartridge and the 0.2240 in (5.69 mm) freebore diameter found in the civilian SAAMI.
The .223 Wylde chamber is used by rifle manufacturers who sell "National Match" configuration AR-15 rifles, barrels and upper receivers.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.223_Wylde_chamber
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Powder is TAC. 55 grain BT and 62 grain Speer. Neither would chamber. OAL was correct and cases has been sized, trimmed and chamfered. My 223 Wylde at them like there was no tomorrow and my buddy's PSA did as well. So, it seems something specific to the rifle chamber itself.
Basically, when releasing the bolt, the round would not fully seat and it would jam into the chamber. Each time I had to remove the round with a cleaning rod. It did this with multiple rounds in both 55 and 62.
I do and the brass fit no problem. Like I said, they ran fine in two rifles so I don't think it was an issue with the loads. It is an issue with the rifle. Unfortunately, I am probably a little bit more green than other reloaders in troubleshooting issues like that. I just set up the equipment per specs and do all of the step and works out 99% of the time.
Are you using a small base die?
For the AR pattern you should use a small base die.
I don't own any Hornady dies so I do not know if their full length die is a small base die.
Their are full length 223 dies out their that are not small base.
I see you own a comparator but do you own a case gauge for .223?
Does the problem rifle chamber factory loads?
I have a case gauge, yes. I use it and the loads checked out. The problem rifle runs factory loads fine.
If it runs factory loads fine...there is something in your reloading process that is not up to spec.
How far are you bumping your headspace back?
Like I said, I am just setting the die up per factory specs. The cases checked out and ran through two other rifles, so IDK about setting the headspace back.
Sounds lke you need to need pick up a head space comparator
Hornaday makes a kit for around $25 (?)
That way you will have an exact number on your caliper to shoot for.
Just ordered a set. Much thanks again. Hopefully I can fix the issue, but I am still getting a new rifle. Haha.
Was hoping I could DM you, but looks like I don't have access. Are you on LRH by chance?
The shoulder of your cases is NOT bumped back enough . Factory specs don't mean shit , especially in a semi auto . I bump ALL My cartridges shoulders back for full auto or semi 0.004" MINIMUM UNDER chamber measurement . Accuracy is Just fine BR guns want 0.001" but Semi auto's aren't BR guns normally .
The Comparator is 100% essential tool for reloading accurately . You can also use your chamber but comparator is easier method .
Setting up a Die isn't full proof , NOR is FL re sizing just once in MANY instances .
Case in Point : I do a hell of a lot of reloading and have been at it #58 years . Some time back a Buddy with Military connections gave Me 750-K ,7.62X51 cases . I knew they came off a chopper door slinger and it required ME resizing #3-4 times while turning the case in the plate aka shell holder 90 degrees each stroke . Before they would drop into a case gauge . MY take was that M134 or M 60 D had worn chamber or heated to excessive expansion and thus case specs were off the chart . Normally I wouldn't have fooled with them but they were LC cases and WORTH the effort .
IF You don't have a case Gauge I suggest getting one ,it instantly shows you WHERE problems are including chewed rims . Sometimes the extractor can tear or distort a rim and one plays hell getting it to chamber . Case gauge drop in it goes so shall YOUR chamber .
I don't know what LRH is. Long range hunters?
I am going to be out of pocket for the next month so I wont be much help for now.
One can most certainly use a small base sizing Die but it's not necessary . The Last 0.2870" from the base up give or take a few 0.0001's NEVER resizes NO matter how one adjusts their Dies. Decades back I ask several major manufacturers why their area encompassed by My calipers were so small in relation to actual chamber dimensions . Only 3 bothered answering .
F.N. Belgium , Norma and Lapua . NATO specs are made smaller ,as Ammo MUST fit chambers regardless of Country addressed .
Generally speaking from what I've measured 0.004-06 smaller Diameter in the caliper zone photo .
I was also informed Ammunition manufacturers use special DIes which are noticeably SMALLER dimension .
The very Best Dies one can purchase WON'T size back to Ammunition factory Die specs .
F.N. Belgium , Norma and Lapua . NATO specs are made smaller ,as Ammo MUST fit chambers regardless of Country addressed .
Generally speaking from what I've measured 0.004-06 smaller Diameter in the caliper zone photo .
I was also informed Ammunition manufacturers use special DIes which are noticeably SMALLER dimension .
The very Best Dies one can purchase WON'T size back to Ammunition factory Die specs .
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