Tikka T1X

The rifle is shooting well. the LW barrel was worth the price.
This lot of Hornady 17gr VMAX is shooting 2734fps with an SD of 30.9fps.
 

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Hello, I recently transferred my Tikka T3x UPR into an MDT Oryx chassis. I did this with the thought that I can then use the UPR stock for the T1x. I'm wondering if I need a T1x trigger guard assembly because the T1x barreled action will not fit in the UPR stock when I try to lock down the trigger guard assembly. One action screw will tighten but prevent engagement with the other action screw. Is the T3x UPR stock incompatible with the T1x? Thanks.
 
Hello, I recently transferred my Tikka T3x UPR into an MDT Oryx chassis. I did this with the thought that I can then use the UPR stock for the T1x. I'm wondering if I need a T1x trigger guard assembly because the T1x barreled action will not fit in the UPR stock when I try to lock down the trigger guard assembly. One action screw will tighten but prevent engagement with the other action screw. Is the T3x UPR stock incompatible with the T1x? Thanks.
Following. I was under the impression that it was a direct swap out
 
Following. I was under the impression that it was a direct swap out
That is what I thought. I tried it again today. The action fits w/o the trigger guard assembly. Although there are no sticking points, once the assembly is snug, only 1 screw will seat. There's probably some user error involved but it's not like I expected. The T3x slipped easily into the Oryx chassis, though my POI dropped 1 foot at 550 so it needs to be re-zeroed.
 
That is what I thought. I tried it again today. The action fits w/o the trigger guard assembly. Although there are no sticking points, once the assembly is snug, only 1 screw will seat. There's probably some user error involved but it's not like I expected. The T3x slipped easily into the Oryx chassis, though my POI dropped 1 foot at 550 so it needs to be re-zeroed.
Is it something that you can capture in a photo or two?

Also, it is possible that somebody in the Tikka T3 Thread might have an idea https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/
 
That is what I thought. I tried it again today. The action fits w/o the trigger guard assembly. Although there are no sticking points, once the assembly is snug, only 1 screw will seat. There's probably some user error involved but it's not like I expected. The T3x slipped easily into the Oryx chassis, though my POI dropped 1 foot at 550 so it needs to be re-zeroed.
T1X floorplate normally has the same footprint as the T3 Lite/Hunter/Varmint etc. The UPR stock uses the CTR magsystem /footprint or? These will not match up. I guess rear action screw will go in front one won't? I only worked on a UPR stock once, never had one of my own.
Peter from PSE about T3/T1Xmagazine systems. Maybe you find an answer.


edi
 
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Well, pulled the trigger on one, finally. Bought the standard bolt ons, had a xray from a t3 laying around, got a timney trigger. First impressions with wolf target match were alright. Wasnt a great grouping rifle for a while. Maybe 200 rounds? All of a sudden it started to make 1 ragged hole at 50 yards right before a match. Took second. Lol.

Had an issue with the factory mag, feeding into the bottom of the chamber. Other two are fine. Guy at the match had a 15 round ND mag, all metal and seemed to work great. Ordered 2, they are expensive, like 80 bucks each, but damn are they sweet!!!!
20240306_183929.jpg
 
T1X floorplate normally has the same footprint as the T3 Lite/Hunter/Varmint etc. The UPR stock uses the CTR magsystem /footprint or? These will not match up. I guess rear action screw will go in front one won't? I only worked on a UPR stock once, never had one of my own.
Peter from PSE about T3/T1Xmagazine systems. Maybe you find an answer.


edi

Of course.... The UPR does use the CTR mag system.

I just noticed that T1X is also sold with the UPR stock. At least in Finland it is. At a quick glance, the trigger guard on that is a different shape.
 
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Of course.... The UPR does use the CTR mag system.

I just noticed that T1X is also sold with the UPR stock. At least in Finland it is. At a quick glance, the trigger guard on that is a different shape.
So two options with the UPR T1X, either stock has a different inlet which means new stock moulds or floorplate is made with the CTR footprint which means new floorplate mould (or 3d print). I often throw the T1X into my CTR stocks and had these made by a friend in alu.
This E-Tac stock normally runs Atlasworx CTR AICS or orig CTR mag systems.

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edi
 
I saw that they list wooden grip, butt plate and cheek rest. Looks as if the wood kit is out of stock, though.
Has anybody used the lightweight chassis from Grey Birch Manufacturing Inc?

I saw that it was mentioned 2 years ago, but there was no more.
For what it's worth. I have my VQ 10/22 Lightweight with a 16.5" carbon barrel in the Grey Birch chassis. The key word for the chassis is Lightweight, with a March 1.5-15 scope (22 oz) the total weigh is 7 lb 6 oz. The chassis is 2 oz more than the original laminated thumb hole stock from VQ. that I liked a lot but I wanted the M-Lok rail and adjustability. It is a very nice chassis, well made and fits my VQ precisely. In no way does it compare to my PDC Custom chassis for my Vudoo. If you want slim and lightweight with adjustability, it fits well.
 

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Oh no, I had no idea this Grey Birch chassis existed and now I have to figure out a way to get one to me in Europe. 😂

Seriously, it checks all the boxes for me. If they would make one for the T3x with CTR mags too so I could have matching ergonomics I would be over the moon.
 
I finally have my T1x setup for my daughter (9 y/o) and she loves it. Dropped it in a KRG Bravo and put a Bushnell Match Pro 6-24 on it. The range we go to has a "lead bullets only" area that has various targets from 7-50 yds away. With this in mind, what distance would be recommended to zero the scope at? I was thinking 25yds would be about right and she wouldn't need to make any scope adjustments. She is just starting out so I am more concerned with teaching her proper shooting mechanics and not worrying about scope adjustments yet. Currently shooting Lapua Center-X and haven't really tested anything else.

Thanks,

T
 
I finally have my T1x setup for my daughter (9 y/o) and she loves it. Dropped it in a KRG Bravo and put a Bushnell Match Pro 6-24 on it. The range we go to has a "lead bullets only" area that has various targets from 7-50 yds away. With this in mind, what distance would be recommended to zero the scope at? I was thinking 25yds would be about right and she wouldn't need to make any scope adjustments. She is just starting out so I am more concerned with teaching her proper shooting mechanics and not worrying about scope adjustments yet. Currently shooting Lapua Center-X and haven't really tested anything else.

Thanks,

T
25 and 50 will be almost identical zeros. She can practice hold overs at 75 and farther. Kids are really sharp, especially when you explain holdovers for various ranges with a drawing of the reticle. She will probably get it right away.
 
I finally have my T1x setup for my daughter (9 y/o) and she loves it. Dropped it in a KRG Bravo and put a Bushnell Match Pro 6-24 on it. The range we go to has a "lead bullets only" area that has various targets from 7-50 yds away. With this in mind, what distance would be recommended to zero the scope at? I was thinking 25yds would be about right and she wouldn't need to make any scope adjustments. She is just starting out so I am more concerned with teaching her proper shooting mechanics and not worrying about scope adjustments yet. Currently shooting Lapua Center-X and haven't really tested anything else.

Thanks,

T
Frank @Lowlight and Jacob Bynum talk zero ranges for 22lr on this podcast episode. I think they said if you zero at 36 yards everything else is a dial up.
Its a good listen.
 
I zero at 30m (33yards).
For the same reason above, never need to dial down. When I ran the numbers with my rifle 30m was the best distance, but I imagine 36yards would be much the same.
 
Well, pulled the trigger on one, finally. Bought the standard bolt ons, had a xray from a t3 laying around, got a timney trigger. First impressions with wolf target match were alright. Wasnt a great grouping rifle for a while. Maybe 200 rounds? All of a sudden it started to make 1 ragged hole at 50 yards right before a match. Took second. Lol.

Had an issue with the factory mag, feeding into the bottom of the chamber. Other two are fine. Guy at the match had a 15 round ND mag, all metal and seemed to work great. Ordered 2, they are expensive, like 80 bucks each, but damn are they sweet!!!!View attachment 8366574

What mag is that?
I have had some problems with my factory mag and I am looking for some additional/replacement mags.
Of course I lost one of my mags at my first NRL22 match.
 
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What mag is that?
I have had some problems with my factory mag and I am looking for some additional/replacement mags.
Of course I lost one of my mags at my first NRL22 match.
ND. but i have an issue with these as well as factory. Its the gun, or should i say the plastic magwell. My mags need to seat up a hair more. The bullet sits too low unless i am pushing my mags up hard. Its usually the first few bullets, then its fine, 98% of the time.

I got a metal magazine catch, hope.it fixes it, otherwise ill have my gunsmith take a look at it.
 
AFAIK Brownells was selling the Mountain Tactical T1X mag catch... Brownells shows out of stock and Mountain Tactical no longer shows them on the site... Anarchy Outdoors seems to have a plastic extended catch for sale.
Yes, that was the one. I put myself on the notify list and a month later it emailed me and i bought it.
 
Does anyone have a factory 20” barrel they may have taken off to with something a little heavier that they want to get rid of? I want to try swapping out my 16.5 for a 20”
You might ask Gary Eliseo since he rebarrels T1Xs, he might have OEM barrels that were swapped for Shilen rachets

[email protected]
 
Small issue I am having with my .22. Occasionally when the rounds are feeding out of certain magazines they sit almost horizontal without the slight angle needed to feed into the chamber. With my factory mags sometimes I can hook my fingernail on the rim and pull it back or bang it on the stock and it sorts itself out. With my NDR 15 round mag when it does it I usually have to a take a round or two out.

I'm shooting CCI Standard Velocity so maybe not the best feeding ammo. I pulled apart one of the mags to see if I could clean it, didn't help.

Has anyone else encountered this? Can a person adjust the position of the mag well or anything like that?