I recently joined a range that goes out to 1 mile. Im putting together a 300WM build to shoot at that distance and it needs an optic. Im sure this is a debated topic, but Im interested to hear the experiences and reasoning from everyone on their preference of max magnification at that range.
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How much magnification for 1 mile?
- Thread starter KitShickers
- Start date
Lots of different opinions will come out, no doubt. It also depends on conditions, if you have someone spotting for you or you have to do it yourself, etc. It doesn't take a lot of mag to SHOOT a target at a mile, but if you're self-spotting you need more mag, and most importantly, excellent resolution.
For me, I'm self-spotting most of the time. I mostly have everything set on 25X at that distance, even the NF 7-35 and SB 6-36. The SB 5-25s also stay on 25X. All of them have excellent resolution, so it works pretty well for me. A cheaper scope with similar mag but poor resolution would not be up to the task.
This is just what works for me, in the conditions I shoot in (Southeast, green hayfields).
I've kind of come to the opinion that the lower-cost end of the "buy once, cry once" ELR optics is the NF 7-35 ATACR. Going up in cost from there are the SBs, ZCOs, and TTs (and a few others), all very capable and with even better glass and other features, but the NF at least performs at a level that it could never be blamed for holding you back, costing you a target, etc. It's a great place to start if cost is a concern (still expensive, but somewhat, to much less so than the others). It is very popular in ELR comps, and seems to hold its own if match results are any indication. That said, I still prefer my SBs, but they cost more, and the NF has performed well enough I don't see it as a handicap.
For me, I'm self-spotting most of the time. I mostly have everything set on 25X at that distance, even the NF 7-35 and SB 6-36. The SB 5-25s also stay on 25X. All of them have excellent resolution, so it works pretty well for me. A cheaper scope with similar mag but poor resolution would not be up to the task.
This is just what works for me, in the conditions I shoot in (Southeast, green hayfields).
I've kind of come to the opinion that the lower-cost end of the "buy once, cry once" ELR optics is the NF 7-35 ATACR. Going up in cost from there are the SBs, ZCOs, and TTs (and a few others), all very capable and with even better glass and other features, but the NF at least performs at a level that it could never be blamed for holding you back, costing you a target, etc. It's a great place to start if cost is a concern (still expensive, but somewhat, to much less so than the others). It is very popular in ELR comps, and seems to hold its own if match results are any indication. That said, I still prefer my SBs, but they cost more, and the NF has performed well enough I don't see it as a handicap.
I wouldn't bother with magnification over about 25x. You will almost never get to use more than that without mirage making the target dance. I have a NF 12-42x benchrest scope that I've used at 42x once. Pretty sure I've had it for 20 years now.
-Alex
-Alex
Its all about the mirage. No mirage 60 x. With mirage may be limited to like 15 x 
Most of the guys at my one mile range use camera system's to spot the hits. About the only way to do it
Most of the guys at my one mile range use camera system's to spot the hits. About the only way to do it
Its all about the mirage. No mirage 60 x. With mirage may be limited to like 15 x
Most of the guys at my one mile range use camera system's to spot the hits. About the only way to do it
Yeah, but we have to shoot through an atmosphere of soup.
Can't wait for some cooler weather.
When you say camera sys, do you mean a camera with a long telephoto lens and some sort of monitor/ipad? Or is there something specific for long range shooting?Its all about the mirage. No mirage 60 x. With mirage may be limited to like 15 x
Most of the guys at my one mile range use camera system's to spot the hits. About the only way to do it
Cameras with network links over long ranges. This is only 2400ish yards but they should be fine out to 10 miles or so. You can't really just stick a long zoom on a camera and call it done because they are hit with the same mirage issues that anything else is subject to.
Scopes with larger max magnification have lower internal adjustment ranges. The stars aligning to let you shoot at 35x is going to happen way less often then you needing more dial.
-Alex
Scopes with larger max magnification have lower internal adjustment ranges. The stars aligning to let you shoot at 35x is going to happen way less often then you needing more dial.
-Alex
its a little camera that goes on a small tripod carefully positioned to the side of the target. it then transmits video to your iPad or cell phone. Works really well and is not that expensive compared to a really good "spotting" scope. "spotting scope" AKA mirage intensifier
I almost always end up between 15-20x when shooting. You end up with way to much mirage at high power.
I have heard of guys using a Nikon P1000 and recording video that way.
I have heard of guys using a Nikon P1000 and recording video that way.
getting a drone to spot hits can be done also if no downrange access is available.
you could also just have flashers installed and leave them on the targets and kind of half ass spot the hits with the help of the flashers. Caldwell makes one for $29 that works great. Jut put a few on target and leave them.
If you want something that tells you when you hit the target, the frame or the ground in front of the target, they are great lol...
-Alex
lol. Use both and keep TOF, especially with additional shooters on same target. You may also be able to differentiate your unique splash pattern by weight, caliber, or composition.
As pointed out here, there should be many factors at play in your decision making process:
Optical Clarity/Resolution - obviously not all optical elements are made the same. A Vortex Venom, Strike Eagle, Viper PST, and Razor are not all going to perform the same at 25x. When it comes to the optics, you will ultimately get what you pay for.
Quality of Adjustment - as with the optical element, not all windage and elevation mechanisms will perform the same. The longer the distance you are shooting, the more critical the precision and repeatability of those adjustments.
Range of Adjustment - if you don't go beyond a mile, this may not be as much of an issue, but you have to make sure that you have enough elevation adjustment left after zeroing to be able to dial to that distance. This can be addressed through the use of a canted base.
Budget - you are looking at a range of hundreds of dollars to thousands of dollars, and that will ultimately be the deciding the factor unless you have an unlimited budget.
When you are shooting beyond a 1,000 yards, you will find anything and everything being used from 25x to 60x.
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2018/07/05/what-the-pros-use-king-2-miles-edition
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2018/08/05/extreme-long-range-tips-optics-mounts
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2020/09/05/best-elr-scope-and-scope-mount-and-rings
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2024/06/10/best-long-range-scope-reticle-what-the-pros-use
Last but not least, is this rifle and scope combination specifically being put together to make consistent hits at 1 mile? If it is, it would not be built the same way that one would be built to shoot inside of 1,000 yards. You can take many off the shelf components and build something that will shoot relatively well out to 1,000 yards. However when you stretch that distance to 1 mile, and add that extra 760 yards, then things change drastically!
Optical Clarity/Resolution - obviously not all optical elements are made the same. A Vortex Venom, Strike Eagle, Viper PST, and Razor are not all going to perform the same at 25x. When it comes to the optics, you will ultimately get what you pay for.
Quality of Adjustment - as with the optical element, not all windage and elevation mechanisms will perform the same. The longer the distance you are shooting, the more critical the precision and repeatability of those adjustments.
Range of Adjustment - if you don't go beyond a mile, this may not be as much of an issue, but you have to make sure that you have enough elevation adjustment left after zeroing to be able to dial to that distance. This can be addressed through the use of a canted base.
Budget - you are looking at a range of hundreds of dollars to thousands of dollars, and that will ultimately be the deciding the factor unless you have an unlimited budget.
When you are shooting beyond a 1,000 yards, you will find anything and everything being used from 25x to 60x.
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2018/07/05/what-the-pros-use-king-2-miles-edition
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2018/08/05/extreme-long-range-tips-optics-mounts
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2020/09/05/best-elr-scope-and-scope-mount-and-rings
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2024/06/10/best-long-range-scope-reticle-what-the-pros-use
Last but not least, is this rifle and scope combination specifically being put together to make consistent hits at 1 mile? If it is, it would not be built the same way that one would be built to shoot inside of 1,000 yards. You can take many off the shelf components and build something that will shoot relatively well out to 1,000 yards. However when you stretch that distance to 1 mile, and add that extra 760 yards, then things change drastically!
It would be well worth a conversation with the range owner to see if they would allow you to install these. That would be with the understanding that you would purchase them and leave them for everyone to use. Having a flasher on the target could save you a lot of frustration, and with the price having come down to $30, it would be well worth the investment.
We shoot out in the desert. 25X scopes. Limited mirage is helpful. No mirage, we know the wind will be a challenge. We started at 1000, then 1500 then some smart elbow said why not a mile? 1000 yard target is a 20 inch gong. 1500 is 24x30. Mile is 30x30. We are shooting 338 LM. Spotting is feasible with a good Spotting scope. A drone is also used. DJI Mini 3 Pro. Mile shots are only feasible on calm clear days. Else call an air strike.
I've had mine out in the field for almost 3 months now and they are still working perfectly.
Flash Bang AR500 Steel Target Hit Indicator | Caldwell
Flash Bang AR500 Steel Target Hit Indicator
www.caldwellshooting.com
The flash bangs can be seen in FL sun no problem. The caldwell ones work great and i have seen them on sale for as little as $20
Never only 1/4 inch of the flasher sticks out the edge. Place them on the top side of target and all the splatter goes down away from them. Especially at one mile
we've yet to shoot one also. it'd be possible if you had an edge hit. We were able to knock them off once with the 375's at 1500 and we've got some pretty heavy plates. 33xc knocked off the one at 1000 but it's just velcro, they were both sitting right below the target when we went out there.
I was considering using silicone to glue them on then you just have to bring the little allen key to change the batteries on the target when they do eventually die.
You really need to get them installed. At prs matches they put 2 on each of the longer targets. Its so cool when they go off
This is pretty much where I set my scopes for 1 - 1.25 mile shots on my 300 PRC. I prefer to keep it out as much as possible, but where I can still see impacts on the steel. I've got a ZCO 527 on my 300 PRC and it never goes to full mag unless I'm helping someone else spot and I'm too lazy to stand up and go to the spotting scope
Long Shot camera system. The camera and its WiFi go down rage near the target. Then you connect with a mobile device
I've been mulling over getting this system. I've been out once with someone who had one and it was pretty cool. My only issue is packing yet another piece of equipment to load up and manage.
A couple weeks ago I loaded up my Jeep with all my ELR stuff, two friends with a few rifles between them, and a little off-road safety gear and went out to the Eastern Slopes of the Sierras. The cabin was filled to the top, and my shocks were bottoming out on deeper ruts. I know the Long Shot isn't all that big, but...
Do these need to be on swingers, or do they work on silhouettes/fixed plates?
they velcro right on the back of the target and stick out the side or even better the top about 1/4 inch. works great on any target
I don’t have that one handy at the moment, but this is one of 4 HIT indicators out of the five I had out for a match, lol.
Or the guts of it anyway. The case was shot clean off.Now I use two per target. Odds being what they are. Funny though that last match I had two on each target and not one was hit.
The HIT unit is the Hornady one. The problem I've encountered with them is depending how you attach them they sit proud of the target face and spall takes them out, they don't last long unless you space them back behind the target face.I don’t have that one handy at the moment, but this is one of 4 HIT indicators out of the five I had out for a match, lol.
Now I use two per target. Odds being what they are. Funny though that last match I had two on each target and not one was hit.
The caldwell units attach to the back of the target and do not sit proud so spall wont take them out, there is still the chance of putting a bullet through it. I've seen a couple that got shot at a rimfire match and the LED's that were not directly hit still worked.
That is true about the differences, but for my matches here I whipped up a quick fix for that the night before the first time I used them. It looks like crap because I just used a skil saw and a couple old pieces of 1x2 and 2x3, but it works well to keep spall off the HIT indicators.
The ones I’ve lost have all been direct hits, odds being what they are.
I have a couple of the HIT indicators. Currently have only used them to 550 yards. The steel targets at this range are on hangers made of rebar (2 vertical, one horizontal). I took a couple of 3 ft pieces of EMT and used some hose clamps to attach those to the uprights, then put the HIT indicators on them, well above and to the side of the gong. This worked fine. The vibrations apparently easily transmit through all the steel.
We actually had 2 targets hanging on a wood frame and it would transmit through the wood and set off the other flasher
They are very sensitive. So much so that I won’t even put two targets next to each other at distance for a .22 match as the spall from a target 3 feet away on its own post will set off the light on the other target.
