Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
My apologies, I assumed the more comments I made the higher the chances of someone seeing it and being able to help me would go up. I won't make any more... Thank you for the feedback and reply.Your comment didn't get lost in the noise, we all know that you're looking for the scope! You have 6 posts on this site, and 4 of those 6 post are you posting that you're looking for a scope. You even posted that twice in this thread and posted in 2 other threads. We get it, you're looking for a scope!
That's about as kindly as I'll put it, since you're new here. Other accounts have been locked or banned for spamming the tech sections of this post for WTB and WTS posts like yours. Just be thankful that a mod hasn't seen your posts and locked your account or whatever by now. Don't take this personally, the people who frequent this section of the forum (and other sections) are sick of people trying to post WTB and WTS outside of the PX area. If you think I'm being harsh, just imagine having to write this same post every few weeks (assuming that the mods haven't first banned the person). I'm providing you with advice below, I suggest that you use it.
If you're truly here to learn, then start asking questions in the relevant topic threads. There's many people on this site, myself included, that will do our absolute best to help you out. But first you need to stop making these WTB (want to buy) posts all over this section of the forum. Also, the guys who hang out in this section usually check every single thread for new posts, because this is the stuff that interests us. So, if we've seen one of your posts, then we've seen them all, and someone would have contacted you by now if they could help. Spamming this section is only going to turn people off and that will only work against you.
Here's a link to the PX on this forum, where you will make all of your buy/sell/trade posts:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forums/firearms-buy-sell-trade/
So, please stop posting your WTB ads in this secton of the forum, use the PX. Also, this site hammers people for making posts like yours outside the PX area because it's not just annoying, but it's also against site rules and tons of people try to sidestep the part where they need to pay to use the PX. The forum owner and the moderators do an amazing job keeping this site running and adding content for paid members. Buying a "supporter" account for $20 per month is a very small price to pay to have exclusive access to what's possibly the best forum PX on the internet! The money also goes to making the site better, covers the site costs, and pays for the content that's exclusive to paid memberships.
With that said, and the assumption that you aren't going to make any more WTB posts for that scope outside of the PX area, what M40 information can I help you with? Post questions here or in their relevant threads, and we'll start helping you out.
I personally wipe mine down with Boiled Linseed Oil every few years. I've always had good luck with it.I do have a question, I don't know if this has been discussed here or not... My newly acquired M40 is the first wooden stock rifle I have ever owned, I have cleaned the bolt, barrel etc. I have not cleaned the stock yet, I don't want to damage the wood. What do you all recommend on treating the wood with that won't damage it in the long run?
It does. I pull all metal off the stock and then put a coat on it and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Then wipe off any excess.Thank you for the reply. I appreciate it. I will give that a try, I'm assuming a little of that goes along way.
Do you know what action screws were originally on the M40? My SSA came with allen head screws, it appears the Chuck Mawhinney batch of rifles came with flathead screws. I recently had to do some stock work, what are the torque specs? I don't want to over/under torque, since the stock is wood I'm assuming 30-40?Your comment didn't get lost in the noise, we all know that you're looking for the scope! You have 6 posts on this site, and 4 of those 6 post are you posting that you're looking for a scope. You even posted that twice in this thread and posted in 2 other threads. We get it, you're looking for a scope!
That's about as kindly as I'll put it, since you're new here. Other accounts have been locked or banned for spamming the tech sections of this post for WTB and WTS posts like yours. Just be thankful that a mod hasn't seen your posts and locked your account or whatever by now. Don't take this personally, the people who frequent this section of the forum (and other sections) are sick of people trying to post WTB and WTS outside of the PX area. If you think I'm being harsh, just imagine having to write this same post every few weeks (assuming that the mods haven't first banned the person). I'm providing you with advice below, I suggest that you use it.
If you're truly here to learn, then start asking questions in the relevant topic threads. There's many people on this site, myself included, that will do our absolute best to help you out. But first you need to stop making these WTB (want to buy) posts all over this section of the forum. Also, the guys who hang out in this section usually check every single thread for new posts, because this is the stuff that interests us. So, if we've seen one of your posts, then we've seen them all, and someone would have contacted you by now if they could help. Spamming this section is only going to turn people off and that will only work against you.
Here's a link to the PX on this forum, where you will make all of your buy/sell/trade posts:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forums/firearms-buy-sell-trade/
So, please stop posting your WTB ads in this secton of the forum, use the PX. Also, this site hammers people for making posts like yours outside the PX area because it's not just annoying, but it's also against site rules and tons of people try to sidestep the part where they need to pay to use the PX. The forum owner and the moderators do an amazing job keeping this site running and adding content for paid members. Buying a "supporter" account for $20 per month is a very small price to pay to have exclusive access to what's possibly the best forum PX on the internet! The money also goes to making the site better, covers the site costs, and pays for the content that's exclusive to paid memberships.
With that said, and the assumption that you aren't going to make any more WTB posts for that scope outside of the PX area, what M40 information can I help you with? Post questions here or in their relevant threads, and we'll start helping you out.
Looks great, and I'm very happy to hear that this thread has been helpful! Did you ever consider doing the left rail cut to your receiver? I always ask people what they think about this cut, and whether or not they'll do it for their M40 build. It's one of those very small details that only an M40 super nerd would actually know, so it's not a necessary cut unless you're building the most detailed M40 clone possible.Relief cut (as Per Raven's dimensions) and black oxided. This post has been a wealth of knowledge. Thanks.
Thanks USMCSGT0331. After reading your earlier post about doing the relief cut, as a minimum, I decided that I'd just do this cut. Might consider the others on the next build.Looks great, and I'm very happy to hear that this thread has been helpful! Did you ever consider doing the left rail cut to your receiver? I always ask people what they think about this cut, and whether or not they'll do it for their M40 build. It's one of those very small details that only an M40 super nerd would actually know, so it's not a necessary cut unless you're building the most detailed M40 clone possible.
Thanks USMCSGT0331. After reading your earlier post about doing the relief cut, as a minimum, I decided that I'd just do this cut. Might consider the others on the next build.
Appreciate you. This is the first machining that I've done on a Remington 700 (and it was on a 6 digit receiver). I am fortunate to have an Uncle that has a lathe and milling machine. I was initially scared to do this cut but he was there supervising and it turned out Ok. I used the measurements that Raven provided in another post and used this photo as a reference.Thanks for the feedback! This specific cut has always been an area of discussion in M40 clone building. The left rail cut can be pretty tricky to do, and it's quite understandable that a lot of people don't want to risk cutting it wrong or potentially ruining their receiver if anything happens. It's VERY common for M40 cloners to just disregard this cut entirely, and it's usually due to the risks involved or the extra gunsmithing fee (and sometimes it's because the clone builder isn't even aware the left rail cut exists on original USMC M40's). I know people who do their own gunsmithing, and they flat out refuse to attempt this cut on their receivers due to the risk involved. It's too back that Raven isn't building rifles anymore, he mastered the left rail cut and could probably do it blindfolded!
We strive to build extremely accurate clones, but sometimes the extra risk and/or cost might be a little too much to handle. In my opinion (whatever little that's worth), omitting the left rail cut is one of those decisions that I think is perfectly acceptable for general M40 clone building. If you want to make the most historically accurate M40 clone possible, then you'll want to do this cut. For most clone builds, the left rail cut isn't a necessity and it's something that a very knowledgeable person would have to really look at to see if the cut is there or not, so it's not something that will blatantly stand out.
If you guys have ever seen clone threads on other forums, people can get pretty bitchy about what's clone correct and for them there's only one way to do things. I think @capthook's post is a good topic for discussion, because our community recognizes the fact that there's leniency in the different levels of clone building and that you can still build an absolutely amazing M40 clone while mitigating cost and risks.
Got a web link you can attach?Just passing this on. I have no stake here.
For anyone looking to go with the Badger M40 repro base and rings, SWFA has a quantity listed, BIN on the auction Bay site. I looked on their website and didn’t see them there. I called SWFA to confirm that they are actually selling on the bay, since it is a new vendor with only 6 feedback. The woman on the phone said they just started selling there.
I’m not sure if these are dead stock or BO is making them again. In any case, if you’ve been looking for a set, here they are.
Greg
P.S. They’re about $175 shipped, depending on your state tax scenario.
It was great talking to you, I really appreciate the wonderful conversation! The McMillan marked barrel is something completely new to M40 collecting and cloning, that has never seen by any of us historians/collectors/cloners before! I just checked my CMP M40's and unfortunately none of mine have an awesome McMillan marked barrel. Barrel companies stamp the barrel's information on the end of the barrel because the ends are supposed to be cut off.I recently purchased an m40 from the CMP. It seems to have started this life in an unknown service probably the Air Force and then later transferred to the army. The army base is transferred to was the JFK training facility for the special forces. From there I understand once I got the freedom of information act back, it started out with the MP company and then ended up with two other organizations at fort Bragg I would like to find out some more information from anyone who was stationed there. I'm also including some pictures of the rifle, and two pictures of inside the chamber I do believe that is McMillan barrels if someone can get a better shot let me know or someone knows about McMillan barrels.
Special thanks to Ryan for the information and the call back Great info.
Hey Ryan! Yes that is a great find/grab that he got.When making a barrel blank, there's usually some runout at each end, so a short piece of both ends are typically discarded so that the heart of the blank can be used for the finished barrel. Since the McMillan stamp can still be seen, that means the gunsmith who built the rifle didn't remove anything from the rear part of the barrel blank. This probably isn't a big deal, even if there was some runout because the chamber reamer cuts out the bore at the rear portion of the barrel. @Frank Green will have to tell us more about this stuff, since he's our resident barrel expert! Thanks in advance, Frank!
Nice score!I recently purchased an m40 from the CMP. It seems to have started this life in an unknown service probably the Air Force and then later transferred to the army. The army base is transferred to was the JFK training facility for the special forces. From there I understand once I got the freedom of information act back, it started out with the MP company and then ended up with two other organizations at fort Bragg I would like to find out some more information from anyone who was stationed there. I'm also including some pictures of the rifle, and two pictures of inside the chamber I do believe that is McMillan barrels if someone can get a better shot let me know or someone knows about McMillan barrels.
Special thanks to Ryan for the information and the call back Great info.
Thanks for the pic’s and measurements!I've included a couple of pictures with measurements on the barrel that I have if anyone has any information please let me know.
Is the original M40 Nam era barrels more consistent as far as contours?Thanks for the pic’s and measurements!
So everyone can see… even though there was a drawing/contour spec with tolerances… the barrels dimensions that I’m seeing are really all over the place.
His barrels breech diameter is 1.2” but the other two originals measured under that.
Same for the muzzle diameter. His barrel measures .757”. The drawing calls out .875” +.050”/-.030”. His is really under those dimensions/tolerances.
So just because you buy a M40a1 rifle and someone says the barrel isn’t original because of the contour doesn’t match the print…doesn’t mean that the barrel isn’t an original M40a1 barrel. Seems it comes down to who the manufacture of the barrels where at a given time and what the USMC accepted and or how it was fit up to the gun.
I even witnessed a 28” or 29” blank being fit up to a rifle and how the 2112 was doing the work did effect what the muzzle diameter was going to be in how much / where he cut it off as well when doing the muzzle crown work.
We’ve also made / quoted barrels and where given dimensions over the phone or email and never given a print. Makes you wonder if someone on the other end was changing what they wanted vs what a drawing shown.
Another thing to take into consideration is that @[email protected]'s CMP Army M40 isn't an actual M40A1. The M40A1's are a very specific USMC rifle that was built by 2112 armorers at the RTE/PWS shop. The CMP Army M40's with the McMillan smear stocks aren't M40A1's. They weren't USMC rifles, they weren't built by 2112 armorers, and they have different specifications when compared to actual USMC M40A1's (as can be seen in the barrel measurement photos in the previous posts). The CMP Army M40's can be compared to USMC M40A1's, but please keep in mind that they are completely different rifles. Just because it has a CMP HTG stock doesn't mean that they are the same type of rifle. So, that will easily explain the differences between the barrels on these Army M40's and the USMC M40A1's.Thanks for the pic’s and measurements!
So everyone can see… even though there was a drawing/contour spec with tolerances… the barrels dimensions that I’m seeing are really all over the place.
His barrels breech diameter is 1.2” but the other two originals measured under that.
Same for the muzzle diameter. His barrel measures .757”. The drawing calls out .875” +.050”/-.030”. His is really under those dimensions/tolerances.
So just because you buy a M40a1 rifle and someone says the barrel isn’t original because of the contour doesn’t match the print…doesn’t mean that the barrel isn’t an original M40a1 barrel. Seems it comes down to who the manufacture of the barrels where at a given time and what the USMC accepted and or how it was fit up to the gun.
I even witnessed a 28” or 29” blank being fit up to a rifle and how the 2112 was doing the work did effect what the muzzle diameter was going to be in how much / where he cut it off as well when doing the muzzle crown work.
We’ve also made / quoted barrels and where given dimensions over the phone or email and never given a print. Makes you wonder if someone on the other end was changing what they wanted vs what a drawing shown.
The original USMC M40 barrels are made in the Remington varmint special profile. Remington had exact specifications for these M40 barrels, and they were the only manufacturer/builder for the original USMC M40's. So the 1966 Vietnam War era USMC M40 barrel contour weren't "more consistent," all of these barrels were literally the exact same (except for some markings).Is the original M40 Nam era barrels more consistent as far as contours?
If Gunny was here, and at the range, he would sign that "BFD"Yep, your right... these old outdated rifles just can't shoot as good as a modern rifle.
View attachment 8383991
Those are consecutive 3 shot groups at 100 yards.
DW
I to have shot a couple of older Remington Varmint Rifles,,, very accurate rifles…. I put some fur in the truck with those…. All good times!!!️I used to shoot those old Remington 700 BDL Varmint Specials, In various calibers, back in the late sixties til the eighties.
Those factory Remington hammer forged barrels were quite accurate, for me.
Shot a very tiny group at the rifle club, with a .222 Rem Varmint, but not in competition, like a world record, but it didn't count.
Beat the Navy sniper team with one in competition, 3-9X scope, before I quit club competition, ...forever, and went to LR varmint shooting.
Those hammer forged Rem factory varmint barrels were pretty good. One could easily hit the head/ chest vital zone from 800 to 1000 yds, with one. These were walnut stocks just like the 40X.
I later used the HS Precision stocks, and have data on round count and accuracy, from old notes.
Factory 308 Rem 700 26" police sniper special...7000 rds on barrel, 100 yd check for accuracy 3 shot groups, .364", .187", .105" & .303" for an average of .239"
1000yds 3 into 3.75".
6900 rds at 1000 yds 3 into 2.422"
5000rds 3 into 1.708" and 5 into 6.140".
Killed a quail 1st shot at 1002 yds that flew in behind the target, as I was letting the barrel cool after a 25 shot string. All factory except a Jewel trigger, and an up graded Leupold 3-10X Mark 4 M3 USMC 3/4 Mil Dot with 20 MOA Badger Ordance steel bases and rings....with good eyesight back in the day this was good for 1400yds.
Put it all together, USMC sniper manual, Precision Shooting Magazine, the Varmint Hunters Club, and came up with my own system, for LR shooting with these old Rem 700 Varmint rifles.
Back in the day 3 shot group, cold bore first shot, no scope power higher than 10X,
rifle Remington 700 Varmint 308 Win, that was the killing combo.
Funny, today it's all changed, speciality cartridges, high power scopes, fast twist precision barrels, more precise high BC match bullets, and tons of electronic gagets.
But when ya "own" an area, especially inside 1000yds none of that's needed... As an enemy, you'd be dead before you could read the information on your Kestrel...old school.
Thanks brother. Appreciate you@capthook
Looks great! There’s just something about that M40 look. A clone either has it or it doesn’t. Yours definitely has it.
They were built for a purpose and just happened to be pleasing to the eye. The M40’s layout may fit the Divine Ratio. A mathematical formula that shows up in nature, art, and design. Like a ‘32 Ford, the scale, balance and proportions are just right.
Anyway, great build. I’m jumpstarted to get moving on one of mine.
Greg