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Bergara B14R Issues & Solutions
- Thread starter 357Max
- Start date
First time I have seen them. I have always used the factory 10 and carry a spare but do have an L3i that I have been using but it is tricky adjusting it for flawless function so not using it in the matches.
It's pictured in post #1 on this thread along with the mod I did to it.
As for fitting the KRG, the problem is this is a double sided mag so that can create a problem with some bottom metal. The AICS style mag is wider at the rear so the second/bottom side is reversed i.e. wide side forward & that may hit the front of the magwell.
I had to mill out the front of my Manners mini chassis bottom metal to accept the Macbros mag.
Great info, thanks. Man that’s bad news on the manners bottom metal. I was going to buy one of the mags and try to make it work in the Bravo chassis and if it wouldn’t, use it in my Manners PRS-1. But I don’t want to mill my manners bottom metal.
After trying l3i extensions (trash) and the l3i 14rd mag which i like and with tuning and velcro on the front works fine. I've found the best combination is a standard mag with the mkm extensions and velcro on the front of the mag works really well. And this is with a krg bravo chassis with the aluminum forend.
So after attempting to use my carbon barreled action with a KRG Bravo and the KRG arca rail, like everyone else I was buttstock heavy and had feeding issues. I had a spare adjustable weight Area 419 arca rail laying around so I went to work. I ordered this:
Amazon product ASIN B01F80VXJS
I turned the arca rail around backwards and found I could mount it with three MLOK attachment points. I took the rear most weight out of the Area 419 rail. After mounting the rail I cut the bar stock and attached it as shown. If I could do it over I would have cut the bar stock in half and only bolted on two pieces that stuck out closer to the end of the barrel instead of three even with the end of the arca rail. It is much better balanced now though.
I’m hoping the Gray Ops bag stop I also added fixes the feeding issues. I also added Velcro to the L3 mag and the factory mag. Not sure how much that is actually helping. I’ll find out tomorrow.
Amazon product ASIN B01F80VXJS
I turned the arca rail around backwards and found I could mount it with three MLOK attachment points. I took the rear most weight out of the Area 419 rail. After mounting the rail I cut the bar stock and attached it as shown. If I could do it over I would have cut the bar stock in half and only bolted on two pieces that stuck out closer to the end of the barrel instead of three even with the end of the arca rail. It is much better balanced now though.
I’m hoping the Gray Ops bag stop I also added fixes the feeding issues. I also added Velcro to the L3 mag and the factory mag. Not sure how much that is actually helping. I’ll find out tomorrow.
Attachments
Hey guys
Found another potential solution for the weak spring under the case tensioner.
A Glock firing pin safety spring (L in photo, Detent spring middle, Stock spring R) fits nicely and ads 2-3 coils of tension and in limited testing has eliminated the empty case being released too early.
Being in the land down under, for most of us over here a Glock safety spring is far easier to get than a AR takedown detent spring.
Give it a crack and see what you think, it’s solved the issue for me in the few hundred I’ve shot since installing.
cheers
Jackson
Found another potential solution for the weak spring under the case tensioner.
A Glock firing pin safety spring (L in photo, Detent spring middle, Stock spring R) fits nicely and ads 2-3 coils of tension and in limited testing has eliminated the empty case being released too early.
Being in the land down under, for most of us over here a Glock safety spring is far easier to get than a AR takedown detent spring.
Give it a crack and see what you think, it’s solved the issue for me in the few hundred I’ve shot since installing.
cheers
Jackson
Just put this B14r together to replace a T1x. First couple range trips it wouldn't feed the last 3-4 rounds out of either mag, even after adjusting the mag well and catch position several times.
After reading through this thread I decided to do the feed ramp mod, so far 250 rounds with no failures and zero detriment to function. My mag well is loose enough for mags to be drop free, and I can even pull down on a seated mag and it still feeds. Highly recommend it, and appreciate all the information in this thread.
Has anyone had issues running theirs in an XLR chassis? Mine is having really bad failure to eject issues. Changing ammo does not help. I seem to have narrowed it down to the magazine. If I single feed it, it will eject fine. But with the magazine inserted the failure to eject probability is pretty high. I’m wondering if an adjustable mag latch would offer some help by lowering the magazine.
Can't you use a trigger pull scale on the left and right side extractor fingers? It might require that you form a loop
with some fine wire or strong carpet thread but why estimate the spring tension.
with some fine wire or strong carpet thread but why estimate the spring tension.
In post #212, I had meant that you may be able to make a loop, find a way to stabilize your bolt, put the loop around your
extractor fingers one at a time and pull on them using your trigger scale until they run out of motion. They should hit
a point where the scale starts to make an abrupt increase in weight when the finger runs out of travel.
extractor fingers one at a time and pull on them using your trigger scale until they run out of motion. They should hit
a point where the scale starts to make an abrupt increase in weight when the finger runs out of travel.
So just to confirm the spring on the inside (left if you’re standing behind the gun looking down range) is weaker than the outside? My gun came with equal weight springs, but the upgraded kit Bergara sent me had two different weights. I installed the stiffer spring on the left side but I think that’s wrong based on your comment and a conversion I just had with a rep at Bergara who sent me the video they use as a reference.
I hope people realize that I'm, attempting to aid them in solving there rifle problems.
I prefer information that is quantifiable. As far as my "extractor and ejector", from memory, by feel, there was no
discernable difference.
When I see people with problems or guessing at something, my mind automatically jumps into solution mode.
IE: what can the average guys do, given the tools that he has on hand, or he can easily obtain? Trigger pull gage and
carpet thread from Walmart to create a loop. Or fishing line, bread twist tie, etc. Something less than about .030" dia.
I had an early steel barrel B14R with the square cuts in the bolt area and never had any issue with it. It even shot better
than my V22.
If I still had the rifle, I would measure the springs and the depth of hole to see if there was any difference in spring
rate or pre-load.
I have actually been looking at buying a replacement for my old B14R. This time I would try a Bix and Andy because I wasn't
happy with the Jewel. B&A has a 700 trigger with a very light weight that I would like to try. It also has a moveable shoe.
Regards
I prefer information that is quantifiable. As far as my "extractor and ejector", from memory, by feel, there was no
discernable difference.
When I see people with problems or guessing at something, my mind automatically jumps into solution mode.
IE: what can the average guys do, given the tools that he has on hand, or he can easily obtain? Trigger pull gage and
carpet thread from Walmart to create a loop. Or fishing line, bread twist tie, etc. Something less than about .030" dia.
I had an early steel barrel B14R with the square cuts in the bolt area and never had any issue with it. It even shot better
than my V22.
If I still had the rifle, I would measure the springs and the depth of hole to see if there was any difference in spring
rate or pre-load.
I have actually been looking at buying a replacement for my old B14R. This time I would try a Bix and Andy because I wasn't
happy with the Jewel. B&A has a 700 trigger with a very light weight that I would like to try. It also has a moveable shoe.
Regards
Attachments
From the Bergara manual, it looks like the original springs are the same since they are both called out as #32974.
That leads me to believe that the inner finger has a shorter lever arm behind the pivot point than the right hand,
( port side ) finger has. That would allow the use of the same spring while producing a different force at the finger
contact points.
Without having instructions, it may be simplest to determine the two springs locations by experimentation.
It only takes under five minutes to swap out the springs. Without instructions, you can't possibly know
what Bergers intent was for the different spring rates.
I would start by putting the stiffer spring on the right-hand extractor claw since that seems to be the norm.
I suspect that you would have an idea in the first ten rounds.
That leads me to believe that the inner finger has a shorter lever arm behind the pivot point than the right hand,
( port side ) finger has. That would allow the use of the same spring while producing a different force at the finger
contact points.
Without having instructions, it may be simplest to determine the two springs locations by experimentation.
It only takes under five minutes to swap out the springs. Without instructions, you can't possibly know
what Bergers intent was for the different spring rates.
I would start by putting the stiffer spring on the right-hand extractor claw since that seems to be the norm.
I suspect that you would have an idea in the first ten rounds.
I used a twist tie and trigger pull gauge. Just feeling with finger pressure they are about the same. Pull gauge show both about 2 lbs. But the left a few oz lighter. I got left side exactor at 1lb 12oz. Right side extractor at 2lb 2oz. To the best of my memory all factory parts with maybe 5k rounds through the gun
Easiest fix is to install a butane lighter spring inside the original spring, cut to same length, and reinstall the tensionor (left side) on a right hand rifle looking from butt, opposite on LH model.
Problem is OEM doesn't hold case tight enough to bolt face and fall off easily. Easy way to tell is to place a fired case in the bolt held in your hand, see how little it takes to remove. Then do the spring mod and try again. Noticeable difference, case held tight enough so when finally hitting ejector imparts proper direction out the ejection port.
This also eliminates having to operate the bolt with excessive speed or muscle to eject consistently out of the port.
I have done 7 rifles this way, mine and others, all with positive results.
I have posted this numerous times, on numerous threads, on numerous forums, so this will be the final time.
The other issue is mag height with certain aftermarket chassis. Some allow the case head to hit the top of the magazine causing premature release from the bolt face. This can be seen with the naked eye by observing case extraction, slowly moving the bolt rearward. Any contact with anything other than the ejector needs to be corrected.
Good shooting
Problem is OEM doesn't hold case tight enough to bolt face and fall off easily. Easy way to tell is to place a fired case in the bolt held in your hand, see how little it takes to remove. Then do the spring mod and try again. Noticeable difference, case held tight enough so when finally hitting ejector imparts proper direction out the ejection port.
This also eliminates having to operate the bolt with excessive speed or muscle to eject consistently out of the port.
I have done 7 rifles this way, mine and others, all with positive results.
I have posted this numerous times, on numerous threads, on numerous forums, so this will be the final time.
The other issue is mag height with certain aftermarket chassis. Some allow the case head to hit the top of the magazine causing premature release from the bolt face. This can be seen with the naked eye by observing case extraction, slowly moving the bolt rearward. Any contact with anything other than the ejector needs to be corrected.
Good shooting
My B14-R is an early steel model and there are 3 springs of similar length and outside diameter, but different thickness of wire and obviously different compression weights. I swapped mine around so the lightest was on the firing pin (return spring), medium on the bolt release side (tensioner spring), and heaviest on the bolt handle side (extractor spring). This cured all of my failures to eject. I have not altered magazines, peened the ejector, or altered the gun other than dropping it into the BMP chassis and mounting a scope. 4 seasons of monthly matches on the original 2 magazines.
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