I know vudoo owners with the same issues and same solutions as listed here. Ultimately these are challenges when using a magazine system not designed for rimfire.
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I bought a complete rifle and it functions perfectly in the HMR stock. However, I tried mine in a MPA BA comp chassis for about 3 weeks without issue - zero problems with mag lock up, feed, extraction etc. What I did learn in those 3 weeks shooting a chassis - is no matter how cool a chassis looks, how practical, functional, adjustable, etc - I do not mesh well with a chassis and they are not for me.I guess I missed the fine print in Bergara's advertising. They shouldn't be selling these as barreled actions only if they only work in their stocks. If I would have known that I would have just bought a complete rifle.
I had a feeding issue with mine which is a HMR stock. I tinkered with the mag and that solved it.Not really a fair comparison then. The issues with the Bergara and feeding are almost all to do with aftermarket stocks and chassis. If you want to fix your feeding issues without doing any custom work, buy an HMR stock and give it a go.
UPDATE: I got the new firing pin today - 11 days since they sent it. It was any easy install and I went to the range to check functioning - all was OK. I'm now dry firing on spent cases - I don't have any commercial dummy rounds and this seems to work well.Well, I've learned my lesson, seen the light, I have. I shall use snap caps or at least old cases for dry fire hence forth. Went to he range this morning and nothing...crickets.... no pew, pew.
Got home and used @acesandeights YouTube video to see how to disassemble the bolt and found a broken firing pin. Called Bergara repair and they are sending one out.
Thank you @acesandeights for the video - very helpful.
View attachment 7664170
I saw one other person post on here that they broke a firing pin from dry fire. Cant remember which thread.UPDATE: I got the new firing pin today - 11 days since they sent it. It was any easy install and I went to the range to check functioning - all was OK. I'm now dry firing on spent cases - I don't have any commercial dummy rounds and this seems to work well.
Any one else have a firing pin break related possibly to dry fries? I didn't dry fire excessively - I didn't think I did anyway.
I broke my firing pin after about 1500 live rounds and probably close to 5000 dry fires. I was aware it may happen and it did. Bergara had a new pin to me in 3 days.I saw one other person post on here that they broke a firing pin from dry fire. Cant remember which thread.
For what it's worth I just past 2000 rounds since the mods I outlined on here with not a single failure.
Been feeding it RWS 50, Center X, SK match, SK long range, Eley 10x, Norma Tac, & occasionally Velociters when I'm screwing around at 400 on steel.
Just got a form 1 Quiet Bore titanium kit, so that's my next project on the B14r.
Your barking up the wrong tree.On another issue. The heavy firing pen spring causing heavy trigger pull weight. Could a slightly lighter spring help provide better trigger pull without greatly reduced reliability? If so, where might one get such a spring?
Not looking for a 1.5lb trigger. Looking for a lighter pull. The rifle basix trigger out of my 700 ran 10oz in the Remington, will not go under 1.5 in the b14r. Also will not adjust as crisp in the B14r. Really want that 1# or less crisp trigger. Seems to be a crapshoot with the heavy firing pen spring.Your barking up the wrong tree.
Adjust the stock trigger all the way down or change the trigger to any rem 700 style that floats your boat.
First thing I did was remove the stock trigger & put in a Huber 1.5# 2 stage. Perfect for me.
TT Diamond should get you there. Can't speak from experience to confirm though.Not looking for a 1.5lb trigger. Looking for a lighter pull. The rifle basix trigger out of my 700 ran 10oz in the Remington, will not go under 1.5 in the b14r. Also will not adjust as crisp in the B14r. Really want that 1# or less crisp trigger. Seems to be a crapshoot with the heavy firing pen spring.
Put a TT Diamond 2-stage in mine and it will get down to 16oz but that's all she wrote. Not sure if it's the sear height issue as addressed by the Bix and Andy unit or the strength of the striker spring but I just run it at 20oz (so I don't have the second stage maxed out on clicks) and roll with it. I will say that the firing pin damn near mashes the rim flat on my rifle and a little less "oomph" wouldn't be a bad thing for the sake of a lighter trigger pull but that is just my opinion. Maybe a reduced power striker spring will appear on the aftermarket someday...TT Diamond should get you there. Can't speak from experience to confirm though.
I just think trying to lighten striker spring would cause nothing but problems.
How did this end up working out? I am having slight mag tilt from the front and need a good fix!Thought I'd add to the collection of hacks and tips related to the magazine issue with aftermarket stocks. I'm running a KRG Bravo.
Inspiration came from another poster using a soldering iron to stipple their magazines. I cut a small 1" square of grip tape I had laying around and put it on my magazine. Was doing ammo testing at the club yesterday and ran about a dozen magazine changes (same mag) through my B14r and only had one hiccup. I had to play with the length and location a few times with the tape to get it pretty close, but otherwise I'm happy with it and will continue to test it out. I have another extended mag catch from KRG, but haven't gotten around to trying to make that work. View attachment 7666479
Ok I’ve put about 150 rds through the Begara in the ACC chassis and with the TT Diamond trigger with zero issues. Looks a little weird with the barrel being shorter than the forend but it shoots good.
View attachment 7730269
After $20.00 for the tap and spring plunger, my factory Bergara trigger has an adjustable sear engagement and an 11 oz. weight.I'm at 1.75 oz with a Jewell... Everything else is completely stock. I tried some stuff with the stock trigger, but could not get below 2 lbs without taking it apart.
357MAX,The firing pin spring is stout, but it's really a firing rod spring. The striker is heavy as hell.
My Huber is delivering 1.5# total pull as it should.
I did polish the sear surface after cutting it & that may have made a difference.
Zero FTF's in 2500 rounds & since reliability improvement was really the topic of the thread. I should leave it there.
Since it's my thread I'll veer off track a little.
My gun is shooting very well. I just put a G2 Razor on with a combined 40moa mount + rail & started playing at 500Y (22.9 mils with SK HV match). I've got 28 mils elevation available. I'm going to try my hand at a 22 ELR comp next month that goes to 510y
Been playing with tuners of my own design & version #2 is showing some real promise. Next time at range I'm going to try to get some data on the tuner @200 & 300y.
If I get bored this winter I'll wack the valve stem off a titanium valve and make an ultra light striker assembly out of my spare.
I'm perfectly happy with the 1.5# Huber & I doubt the juice is worth the squeeze, but there's only one way to find out.
Obviously I like tinkering but modding the striker assembly is pretty low on my priority list.
I've said it before, but as reminder Bergara doesn't sell parts. Remember that before you start modding parts that can't be replaced.
A reduced power spring can be sourced, but first it will require an accurate measurement of the stock spring rate, seat pressure, open pressure, free length, stack length, od, id, & wire diameter.
View attachment 7695038
Is there more info on this mod here? I would love to try duplicate your 11 ounce trigger pull.After $20.00 for the tap and spring plunger, my factory Bergara trigger has an adjustable sear engagement and an 11 oz. weight.
The photo is not my trigger. The work can be done without taking the trigger apart. Since I had the stuff, I also added an over travel
screw as well.
It worked fine for a little while, but the adhesive didn't last very long and it eventually came off.How did this end up working out? I am having slight mag tilt from the front and need a good fix!
Thanks. I searched your posts after asking the question and found out a lot of what I needed to know. The additional detail you gave above is even more help. Thank you.
Shawn,Snipes81,
I don't have any mag tilt issue, but I have some .001,.003 and .005 full hard SS sheet with PSA backing.
Id 'be happy to send you some to try. Whatever you try, I would put a radius on it's leading edge.
A shim with a nice looking horizontal line on your mag is the worst way to have it.
You may also consider painting the shim edge with clear enamel finger nail polish.
You could even wrap the shim so it adheres to the right, rear and left side. A "U" shape.
I also have some PTFE or UHMW with some aggressive adhesive. DO you know how thick your shim needs
to be?? From post #57, it looks like his needed at least .010" since he's using texture tap.
I may consider SS or UHMW shim on the btm metal instead of shimming all of your mags once you have established
your required thickness.
Have you done my trigger mod? You should !
Shawn
I haven’t messed with it yet. I have a TT trigger in it now and I was going to steal it for a centerfire build, but found another TT on the shelf so I can use that instead.MilSpecOkie,
How did your trigger mod work out?? Did you achieve eleven ounces?
Why don’t you use some epoxy on the back of the magazine. You can get golf club epoxy that dries black if that bothers you. Build it up and then file it down until it fits as needed. If it doesn’t work you can completely sand it off.Shawn,
I don't know how thick of a shim I would need. I appreciate your generous offer. I'll most likely try to get the extended mag catch release installed / adjusted to see if that will address it. I purchased it a while ago, but was hoping to not have to mess with it.
WRG to your trigger mod, I swapped out the factory trigger with one of the TT Diamonds and am happy with that route.
Mainly because I'd like to fix it once and not have to fool with it for each magazine down the road. If I can get it to work at the rifle level that's my preference after trying to "hack" it already once. I do like your idea in the event I need a fallback plan.Why don’t you use some epoxy on the back of the magazine. You can get golf club epoxy that dries black if that bothers you. Build it up and then file it down until it fits as needed. If it doesn’t work you can completely sand it off.
@357Max Thanks for the initial write up. I had seen this post prior to buying the B14R. Over this past Saturday I shot a PRS Rimfire match and put about 72 rounds (out of 80) down the tube in addition to 180 or so prior to the match zeroing, plinking, and verifying dope. Zero issues.
Today at the range I started to get intermittent extraction issues where the brass would pop off from the claw prematurely. I chalked it up to being dirty. Regardless I performed the assist spring mod when I got home. Tension feels just like the extractor claw now. While I’m at it I guess I’ll ramp the mag lips as well.
Tension before:
Tension after:
Yeah mine was shaving bullets initially unless the mag was in it's happy place. After the feed ramp mod (post #1), it's like Mikey, & eats anything.My B14R is sending the lot of SK LR I have out at 1107 fps avg. I tried a lot of Tenex that is labeled 1070 and it’s also around 1100-ish. The feeding on the Tenex however is hot garbage.
Nothing new but the mod took a few seconds to do with a Dremel. Another solution for a mag.
View attachment 7792649
See the pic I attached? The back edge of the mag by the ejector needed to relieved until it fit. Didn’t take much and doesn’t take but a few seconds with a fine sanding drum on a Dremel. If you have a Vudoo mag lying around you’ll see what I mean.What did you have to mod to make the Vudoo mag work?