Thank you. But times change so it's on my CZ now.
The TRG got new clothes:
Just had to try.
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TRG appreciation thread - Part III
- Thread starter CerebralDistortion
- Start date
The TRG got new clothes:
Just had to try.
Love these old rifles, think they were a little
Under appreciated. I want the folder I just wait til the moment when I can handle swallowing almost 1000 bucks for the krg
Question for you…who’s front NV rail are you using in this photo? Factory backbone or did you swap for KRG? Thanks.
That’s a old photo but it was a krg bridge on a factory backbone
Thank you ! I’m slowly going back to that general setup. Probly going to buy another m7xi. They just look right on a trg
That is a badass rig! You like the s5 ? I had the 3-18 and it didn’t agree with my eyes
Recently added an ASE SL7i. Didnt shoot it yet, looking forward to it though.
The more i shoot my TRGs, the more i drift away from my AIs. If i had to make a choice right now i'd go with the TRGs. The ergonomics fit me far better than the thumbhole stock of the AI. Honestly expected it to be vice versa in the beginning.
The more i shoot my TRGs, the more i drift away from my AIs. If i had to make a choice right now i'd go with the TRGs. The ergonomics fit me far better than the thumbhole stock of the AI. Honestly expected it to be vice versa in the beginning.
I very much prefer the grip on my AT to that of the AE/AW so it get where you’re coming from.
Just to add some life to this thread...
Latest trip to the range. Zeroing at 100 m and two fast (sub 30 sec) 5 shot groups.
Latest trip to the range. Zeroing at 100 m and two fast (sub 30 sec) 5 shot groups.
Just to add to the spice here....Beretta contradicting itself....
Action screws on my A1 were finger tight or less so I tried doing the ridiculous 133inlb and the screw stretched and cracked at 80. Tried to get replacement screws and that's the response I got. Picked up 3 from tractor supply and torqued to 65 and will test the accuracy this weekend with they're own trg 175gr ammo.
Action screws on my A1 were finger tight or less so I tried doing the ridiculous 133inlb and the screw stretched and cracked at 80. Tried to get replacement screws and that's the response I got. Picked up 3 from tractor supply and torqued to 65 and will test the accuracy this weekend with they're own trg 175gr ammo.
Yeah there’s no way a bolt that size is taking that torque, I don’t care what grade of steel it is haha. I’ve always just snugged by hand with a screw driver . Never had mine come loose.
No way m6 "quality hardware" snaps in half under these loads.
Note that alternative and/or low-quality installation hardware has potentially much lower load ratings. If something has snapped its likely not original/10.9 spec parts. ETA - this includes substitution of stainless steel scews, which even when good quality, are typically a downgrade in tensile strength vs the 10.9 spec.
Other potential issues to rule out would be out of spec torque-wrench, or incorrect thread condition, etc.
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Yeah that’s recommend max torque before failure in that thread lol. There is no need to go over 60-70 inch lbs I don’t give a shit what they say. I don’t belive they even had a spec in the old models manual. They was an older thread about it in here someplace.
There was and I referred to that thread and they were also told 133inlb but most torqued to 45-65. I don't believe hand tight is enough but 133 sounded insane. I attempted 133 only because the book called it out and Beretta told another member the same spec. Trying to eliminate all things Beretta can throw at me before I try and send it in for accuracy issues. I'm putting money on the screws tightness though. We'll see Saturday.
Yeah I get that, and it’s just my opinion but I think it sounds crazy for a m6 bolt even with the supposed grade the fasteners are. Who knows maybe I’m the moron
Oh no don't get it wrong I completely agree with you lol. Spread across 3 action screws even 65 is more than enough.
There is virtually zero chance a 10.9 m6 is going to snap-in-half at 15nm.
A out of spec or mis-dialed clicker-type torque wrench would do it pretty easily tho.
I've never seen a 10.9 screw on any of my TRGs. Maybe the A1 is different?
Anyway. If the screw broke, I hope you're good to go.
Anyway. If the screw broke, I hope you're good to go.
I'll post the pic I plan to email Beretta.
@CerebralDistortion thankfully I was able to back the screw out and no receiver threads damaged. I have good enough sense/ feel to know when I bolt is about to let go and saved it enough to not lose it completely.
You can see the crack a little better in the second pic and you can definitely see the stretch compared to a normal one.
As for the torque wrench I'm not going to pretend it's high dollar BUT I do take it into work and test it side by side with a snap on digital on a low end and high end of the rating a few times a year. It's never been close to 1ftlb off and maxing out at 80inlb, even if it was 1ftlb off is still under the 133inlb.
As for the torque wrench I'm not going to pretend it's high dollar BUT I do take it into work and test it side by side with a snap on digital on a low end and high end of the rating a few times a year. It's never been close to 1ftlb off and maxing out at 80inlb, even if it was 1ftlb off is still under the 133inlb.
Is there a "head stamp"(?) any kind of markings on the screw head?
Also. Standard torque for a 8.8 M6 screw is 10 Nm, ~7.4 foot pounds.
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None. Replaced it with a 12.9 grade (on left). On the right is the sako bolt.
Well:
Watched that video, had a hard time keeping the boner down… so hot
The Sako .300WM load is interesting - 175gr Scenar-L at almost 3,200fps!Rapid fire with a 300 WM gets the barrel hot...
The Finns must used capped scopes, and don't want to used hold overs.
Are there different M10 forends? Saw someone mentioning you could get them with the same forend as the A1 series.
Just asking because i would like to use the sako bipod and noticed an adapter on the TRG 62 A1 Video. It looked better than the one from finnaccuracy. Seems like its from Sako maybe.
Just asking because i would like to use the sako bipod and noticed an adapter on the TRG 62 A1 Video. It looked better than the one from finnaccuracy. Seems like its from Sako maybe.
There are. Not sure which is standard nowadays, but I was under the assumption that the current M10's ship with a M-Lok fore-end.
The adapter on the video is indeed made by Sako and attaches to M-Lok vs. picatinny with the FA one. Don't know the part number but should be this one.
Pre-13 TRG22’s have a different trigger. They could be adjusted to a point where the seat was damaged. The post 13 TRG cannot be adjusted a light to prevent this damage. I’m not aware of any other changes.
There are slight differences in earlier model bolt handles. Really early 22’s had a thinner bolt handle as well.
I’m not sure what the difference is better a 22 and 21.
There are slight differences in earlier model bolt handles. Really early 22’s had a thinner bolt handle as well.
I’m not sure what the difference is better a 22 and 21.
I was looking at the difference between the 21 and 22 just yesterday.
Looks like it’s mostly just cosmetic differences in the rear of the chassis (cheek pieces) and the magazine floor plate tabs (magazines are interchangeable but the 22 mags side tabs foul of the forend so either need to be cut off or the forend mag well opened up slightly).
The early 21s actions have a different shaped tang but seems like the chassis backbone is the exact same.
So in theory the KRG chassis should fit any model TRG 21/22.
Think there were more changes on the trg42 vs trg22 in 2013. Iirc the 42 added dual ejectors and faster twisted barrels.
RE changes on the different model series, here's a quick recap on the changes between and within 21/41 and 22/42. The list is not fully comprehensive and I have not included the variations in the magazines/ITRS's/back bones/folding stocks etc. The sources used are numerous and dubious, so I'll edit if someone spots something incorrect.
Changes within the 21/41-series:
Changes within the 21/41-series:
- Early on the receiver had a square tang, different geometry on the sides of the receiver and the bolt release and gas went hole were on the left side of the receiver
- The backbone came up higher on the receiver with the early ones
- The 22/42 rear stock has less drop at the heel thus needing a different cheek pad also
- Grip angle is more vertical
- Front stock has cutouts at the rear to accommodate the new magazine
- The green stock also reportedly had different material/density than the early black ones
- The magazine has studs at both sides to help with handling
- The magazine release has slightly more clearance to function more reliably when dirty
- Receiver has grooves cut on top to accept recoil stops for scope mounts
- Bolt handle was altered slightly
- Barrel has M18x1 muzzle threads as standard from the factory instead of groove for clamp on muzzle brake
- Barrel has a groove behind the muzzle threads to accommodate the new front sight
- Three chamber thread on muzzle brake instead of the two chamber clamp on
- New design on the iron sights
- New design on bipod (old was PH-style)
- Trigger guard has a groove at the back to allow rear stock removal without removing the trigger (could be on that this came along earlier)
- Field serviceable firing pin design (there’s some mixed information whether it came already in the 21/41 --> 22/42 transition)
- Six threaded holes on the top of the receiver instead of four (later seventh added) and two additional recoil pin holes
- Steel insert on the backbone for the bipod to lock on
- A third hole added in the front of the backbone for ITRS attachment
- Two different bipod designs (narrower one and a “dropped“ one) to accommodate the ITRS without interference with the bipod
- Faster twist rate on the 338LM 12” --> 10” (“post ‘13”)
- Two ejectors on the 42 (“post ‘13”)
- New trigger with less adjustable but allegedly more robust design, new trigger and safety blades and an aluminum trigger guard (“post ‘13”)
- Softer butt pad (“post ‘13”)
- Bolt handle design has changed at least twice
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Got another m7xi shorty just in time for deer season !
Ready for rattle can. This is the final configuration of my classic TRG 22.
PMII 3-12x50
ITRS rail for night vision
Spuhr Mount
ASE Utra SL7i
Went back and forth concerning adding more height to my cheek piece since i am unable to remove the bolt that way.
Tried it today and almost all my reticle jump dryfire problems i only had with the TRG disappeared. They were very few but i noticed them, beside neck fatigue.
Incredible what 2 small plastic pieces can do for your handling. 70 Euro...wtf, in the end it was worth it. Only had the big spacer before.
My go to gun for comps and hunting. Pretty much doing everything with that setup.
PMII 3-12x50
ITRS rail for night vision
Spuhr Mount
ASE Utra SL7i
Went back and forth concerning adding more height to my cheek piece since i am unable to remove the bolt that way.
Tried it today and almost all my reticle jump dryfire problems i only had with the TRG disappeared. They were very few but i noticed them, beside neck fatigue.
Incredible what 2 small plastic pieces can do for your handling. 70 Euro...wtf, in the end it was worth it. Only had the big spacer before.
My go to gun for comps and hunting. Pretty much doing everything with that setup.
Fellow planted tank enthusiasts i see!
3-12 isan excellent choice. Myfavorite scope ever.
The few cash that is left after shooting runs into aquascapes and shrimps
The 3-12x50 has the best eyebox for me up to this day. Phenomenal glas!
What surprises me is the fact, that most TRGs i see even in military use dont even use a single spacer. Makes me wonder if my shooting position is weird or i am missing something...
