Maggie’s The Woodchuck and Firewood Hoarders Thread

#3,251
Lawless said:
Leak what and where?
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Fuel and oil. I haven't actually checked where exactly. I bought (2) new saws 2 years ago and (1) last year. One of the (2) saws started leaking last year and I ignored it. The one I bought last year just started leaking this year. Makes me think of the deal when a manufacturer uses an incompatible, or inferior o-ring. Either that or the few times I mixed fuel using the stuff with ethanol in it. Which was very seldom.

I just wondered if I asked that someone would have seen it so much they'd know without even having to think about it.
 
#3,252
AmmoFort said:
Fuel and oil. I haven't actually checked where exactly. I bought (2) new saws 2 years ago and (1) last year. One of the (2) saws started leaking last year and I ignored it. The one I bought last year just started leaking this year. Makes me think of the deal when a manufacturer uses an incompatible, or inferior o-ring. Either that or the few times I mixed fuel using the stuff with ethanol in it. Which was very seldom.

I just wondered if I asked that someone would have seen it so much they'd know without even having to think about it.
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They all leak bar oil. I put them away dry usually but always on a sheet of cardboard because I know there will be a puddle of oil underneath. They should not leak fuel. Did you spill when you filled it and not wipe it down?
 
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#3,253
AmmoFort said:
Did they do something to the newer Stihl's? All of mine leak.
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You really have to pay attention to keeping the o-rings clean and especially the area where the o-ring touches the sides. Check it each time you put the caps on. My oil cap was leaking so I took it into the dealer. He cleaned off some tiny amount of debris, where I described above, and it stopped leaking. It’s been a couple years and it has not leaked a drop since I started checking that each time.

I’ve never leaked fuel. I’d be more concerned with that…
 
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#3,255
090G... bucket list complete. Was an emergency saw on a railroad engine. I converted her from .5 pitch to .404
20240801_190540.jpg
 
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#3,260
Old lady down the street grew up in California cutting down redwoods with her family. Said she used to have one of those 2 man saws with a crazy long bar. She's got no reason to lie and I believe her, but to sit and listen to her you should be forgiven for thinking she is embellishing. But she knows more about cutting trees than I might ever know. Oddest thing.

Let me see if I can remember this story right. She used to take their saws in for repairs from time to time. And the local place they went to lost its chainsaw/small engine (whatever) tech. Told her it was going to be a while for a repair. She said do you have the books/ manuals? She got them and then proceeded to teach herself how to repair saws. She came back in for something one time and they asked her how it went and she said it's all fixed up. Flabbergasted they then asked her if she wanted the repair job. She took it and somehow word got out how well she was doing and one of the saw company reps got ahold of her. He then gave her a job teaching (her words) "the boys coming back from Nam, how to repair saws."
 
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#3,261
Got a Husky 3120XP....120ccs of fury.....and wear your ass out.
It'll run a 48" bar all day long and it'll also bolt to a stump grinder setup.

Stock image, but it's this exact same one......with lots of wear and less shiny.

1504004069.jpg



Just noticed after this posted....
You DO NOT want to be the idiot in shorts running this thing.
Chaps, face shield, chainmail, motorcycle helmet, nomex....whatever you can add to that.
 
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#3,262
Need to pull the top end this winter. From reading, most dealers converted 090 saws to 137cc's before they went out the door. Not sure 137 kits are available anymore, for rebuild? Given the fact none of the magnesium is cracked, it will be more of a wall hanger than see heavy duty use.
 
#3,263
n2ishun said:
Got a Husky 3120XP....120ccs of fury.....and wear your ass out.
It'll run a 48" bar all day long and it'll also bolt to a stump grinder setup.

Stock image, but it's this exact same one......with lots of wear and less shiny.

View attachment 8471144


Just noticed after this posted....
You DO NOT want to be the idiot in shorts running this thing.
Chaps, face shield, chainmail, motorcycle helmet, nomex....whatever you can add to that.
Click to expand...
Only think worse than that is a post hole digger. I never want to grind another stump or dig another post hole unless it's joystick operated.
 
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#3,271
Winter 2025 is coming. Had a spare afternoon, and started on next year's firewood. All gum, felled 3 years ago.

i burn about 8-10m³ a year, so this is just warming up for the real thing. Right now I'm a bit creaky.

P.S. my "big" chainsaw is a Shindaiwa. I mean, what would the Japanese know about small two stroke engines or cutting tools?

20240804_105432.jpg
20240804_141953.jpg
 
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#3,272
OK guys, got a couple questions so I'm coming to the mountain of wisdom:

I have a Stihl Farm Boss I sent off for work and it was returned without repair. Reason on the ticket was "piston ate up, cylinder bad, compression 0" and it was cheaper to buy a new one than rebuild it. Is this a correct statement? The reason I ask is that I have been advised by the Stihl dealer that the new Farm Boss equivalent is not nearly as good a quality because the piston rod is shorter and isn't nearly as good. "Stihl is going to have to get their shit together" are the exact words he used regarding this new line of saws.

The other question I have is how in the hell did that happen?

I got lots of wood to cut and really no time for issues at the moment. So is it a function of the gas additive, gas or what?

I'm cutting mesquite, red oak and various other hardwood types.
 
#3,273
lariat said:
OK guys, got a couple questions so I'm coming to the mountain of wisdom:

I have a Stihl Farm Boss I sent off for work and it was returned without repair. Reason on the ticket was "piston ate up, cylinder bad, compression 0" and it was cheaper to buy a new one than rebuild it. Is this a correct statement? The reason I ask is that I have been advised by the Stihl dealer that the new Farm Boss equivalent is not nearly as good a quality because the piston rod is shorter and isn't nearly as good. "Stihl is going to have to get their shit together" are the exact words he used regarding this new line of saws.

The other question I have is how in the hell did that happen?

I got lots of wood to cut and really no time for issues at the moment. So is it a function of the gas additive, gas or what?

I'm cutting mesquite, red oak and various other hardwood types.
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Stihl has been doing that for years, it's bullshit.
I took a saw in, running great, it needed a new plastic case because where I cracked it, it leaked oil. I got the saw back taken apart and In a box with them saying about the same as what they told you. I almost left the brand and I may still if I have anymore problems.
I but the professional saws these days so they can be rebuilt.
 
#3,274
lariat said:
OK guys, got a couple questions so I'm coming to the mountain of wisdom:

I have a Stihl Farm Boss I sent off for work and it was returned without repair. Reason on the ticket was "piston ate up, cylinder bad, compression 0" and it was cheaper to buy a new one than rebuild it. Is this a correct statement? The reason I ask is that I have been advised by the Stihl dealer that the new Farm Boss equivalent is not nearly as good a quality because the piston rod is shorter and isn't nearly as good. "Stihl is going to have to get their shit together" are the exact words he used regarding this new line of saws.

The other question I have is how in the hell did that happen?

I got lots of wood to cut and really no time for issues at the moment. So is it a function of the gas additive, gas or what?

I'm cutting mesquite, red oak and various other hardwood types.
Click to expand...
The farm boss is a clam shell design. OEM pistol and cylinder and time to install are around the price of a new saw. Check out HL supply for aftermarket piston and cylinder kits.
 
#3,275
If you're going to have the dealer rebuild it, it probably is cheaper just to replace it. If you tackle it yourself, parts are fairly reasonable.

What model is your farm boss? The old ones were the 029/290 then the 291. I think they call the 271 the farm boss now.
I had a 290 for years and it served me well.

Bailey's used to sell a complete motor for the 290-390 for a pretty fair price. Bolt in and go.
 
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#3,296
Question for you guys: pulled out an old axe head that has a nick out of the blade about the size of a little finger nail. I would like to repair it. Have received some advice to just weld it up with a 7018 rod. I kind of doubt that this is the route to take. Any pointers?
 
#3,297
lariat said:
Question for you guys: pulled out an old axe head that has a nick out of the blade about the size of a little finger nail. I would like to repair it. Have received some advice to just weld it up with a 7018 rod. I kind of doubt that this is the route to take. Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Remove the handle, soak the axe head in vinegar overnight. You will see the temper line. You can likely just file/grind out the chip and still have plenty of temper left. I've done this on a few dozen.

Look at this one -
1727410053077.png



Zoom in and see where black meets grey. Filed cutting edge is bright and polished from sharpening and cutting. Black out to the edge is hardened steel, grey is soft untempered. This one was a barn find made about 1930. I rehung it a few years back on a House Handle octagon unvarnished DB handle
 
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