I wasn't saying yours doesn't work. I was stating what I believed it was and I never got good results from the ones I made. They did reduce recoil and work but either looked like crap or gave me to much blast. The best thing I made was a linear comp out of 40mm ti that made a 10.5" 5.56 tolerable but was 6" long.
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Need a better muzzle brake
- Thread starter wvfarrier
- Start date
So if its so much stronger than steels why not make an aluminum barrel, or rifle action without steel inserts. Airplane landing gear, or car axels, out of your special aluminum.
Stronger for its weight and anodizing are selling points of aluminum, and have application in industry, where weight is the priority, like airplane wings, & fuselage.
Which have also been made out of cloth and wood back in the day.
Anodizing is very thin and wears off, then ya have soft aluminum exposed.
For brakes I usually make or buy Stainless Steel to match the stainless steel barrel I install, even using the part of the unused barrel blank...if super accuracy is desired, and sometimes do not cut the barrel for a brake at all.
So the heat expansion is the same throughout the barrel, with all stainless steel.
Aluminum heats up very quickly, with a drastic expansion ratio, much different than the SS barrel. And a Stainless brake can be modified without messing with the thin anodizing causing it to lose all of its hardness, and some of the structural integrity.
Although easy to machine I will not ever buy or make a brake out of aluminum.
And thanks for giving me permission not to buy an aluminum brake...but it's my personal choice, not to do so.
Like I said, your stainless brakes could be considered, although a little long.
Depends on application, accuracy needs, recoil reduction needs, and personal choices.
It's important to note that he said it's stronger than mild steel. The steel used to make rifle barrels is not mild steel and is much stronger.
If I had to take a guess the alloy is 7075 which has a tensile strength of 540–590 MPa (78,000–86,000 psi). Mild steel is around 370 to 450 MPa (54,000 to 65,300 psi). Barrel steels such as 4140 have a tensile strength 480 to 690 MPa (70,000-100,000 psi). Stainless barrels are even higher than that.
If I had to take a guess the alloy is 7075 which has a tensile strength of 540–590 MPa (78,000–86,000 psi). Mild steel is around 370 to 450 MPa (54,000 to 65,300 psi). Barrel steels such as 4140 have a tensile strength 480 to 690 MPa (70,000-100,000 psi). Stainless barrels are even higher than that.
I would guess 2024 aluminum because higher melting point, lower thermal expansion and, while lower maximum strength, it has a higher Modulus of Elasticity. But I don't care and am just guessing.
How does that Tac Ops brake look?
How does that Tac Ops brake look?
Mild steel is stronger, heavier, and cheaper than aluminum.
Each can be alloyed to improve certain properties, but steels win the strength race whether starting at the mild state or heavily alloyed state to far exceed that of any aluminum alloy, but are much heavier.
Aluminum wins in applications where weight is a primary consideration, like airplanes wings. But not in high heat, high strength parts like brakes, where high heat and loss of strength would cause complete brake failure, with aluminum parts, here 1200° will melt aluminum, heavily alloyed steel will take the heat to 2000° without loss of strength called Inconel, also used in nuclear reactor cooling towers.
In the weight to strength category, aluminum is ahead cause it's 3 times lighter than steel....but loses that edge fast as heat is applied, as it has a very low melting point.
I don't use mild steel or aluminum in my muzzle brakes.
Each can be alloyed to improve certain properties, but steels win the strength race whether starting at the mild state or heavily alloyed state to far exceed that of any aluminum alloy, but are much heavier.
Aluminum wins in applications where weight is a primary consideration, like airplanes wings. But not in high heat, high strength parts like brakes, where high heat and loss of strength would cause complete brake failure, with aluminum parts, here 1200° will melt aluminum, heavily alloyed steel will take the heat to 2000° without loss of strength called Inconel, also used in nuclear reactor cooling towers.
In the weight to strength category, aluminum is ahead cause it's 3 times lighter than steel....but loses that edge fast as heat is applied, as it has a very low melting point.
I don't use mild steel or aluminum in my muzzle brakes.
I don't know but the finish and threads(?) look like shit...amateurish. Probably dangerous to bystanders.
More like a weak pipe bomb, from the looks of it.
What? You can’t even see the threads and the finish is exemplary. Why did you feel you needed to post this. It looks like many other muzzle breaks. STFU
On my 300 PRC I've tried:
- APA Gen 2 Lil Bastard
- APA Gen 3 Lil Bastard
- Hellfire Match
- Terminator T3 (current)
All felt similar, here's the ins and outs of each:
APA Gen 2 Lil Bastard:
- Good brake, solid recoil reduction without being massive
- Easy to take off
- Less easy to time due to it creeping when tightening the locking nut
- Loud
APA Gen 3 Lil Bastard:
- Same as Gen 2, but slightly better at not creeping
- Gave this to a friend of mine who got a 300 PRC
Hellfire Match
- Similar recoil reduction to the APA and also loud
- Easier to time (no creep), but harder to take off and clean. This was the deal killer for me. It has been relegated to my 308 wind practice rifle.
Terminator T3
- Excellent brake with great recoil reduction.
- Seems less loud, but it could just be my hearing going
- Far, far, far easier to take off and clean (it is not self timing)
- The main "negative" is that must be timed to the barrel when cutting it. This adds cost, but something I gladly pay to get back the ease of removal and reinstallation (not to mention consistency of placement).
They all have their pros and cons. If you don't mind having your barrel timed for the brake, the Terminator brakes are the bomb (I also have one on my 37XC - a T5). If you must go self-timed, my recommendation would be one APA brakes (Lil Bastard or Fat Bastard - either is fine) in stainless steel (for ease of cleaning using chemicals that would otherwise kill the finish on the black ones). Additionally, APA now has this gizmo called the Cone of Shame, which creates a small sound block heading back toward the shooter. I bought one to try it on my 6mm, and it does reduce sound.
- APA Gen 2 Lil Bastard
- APA Gen 3 Lil Bastard
- Hellfire Match
- Terminator T3 (current)
All felt similar, here's the ins and outs of each:
APA Gen 2 Lil Bastard:
- Good brake, solid recoil reduction without being massive
- Easy to take off
- Less easy to time due to it creeping when tightening the locking nut
- Loud
APA Gen 3 Lil Bastard:
- Same as Gen 2, but slightly better at not creeping
- Gave this to a friend of mine who got a 300 PRC
Hellfire Match
- Similar recoil reduction to the APA and also loud
- Easier to time (no creep), but harder to take off and clean. This was the deal killer for me. It has been relegated to my 308 wind practice rifle.
Terminator T3
- Excellent brake with great recoil reduction.
- Seems less loud, but it could just be my hearing going
- Far, far, far easier to take off and clean (it is not self timing)
- The main "negative" is that must be timed to the barrel when cutting it. This adds cost, but something I gladly pay to get back the ease of removal and reinstallation (not to mention consistency of placement).
They all have their pros and cons. If you don't mind having your barrel timed for the brake, the Terminator brakes are the bomb (I also have one on my 37XC - a T5). If you must go self-timed, my recommendation would be one APA brakes (Lil Bastard or Fat Bastard - either is fine) in stainless steel (for ease of cleaning using chemicals that would otherwise kill the finish on the black ones). Additionally, APA now has this gizmo called the Cone of Shame, which creates a small sound block heading back toward the shooter. I bought one to try it on my 6mm, and it does reduce sound.
So you quote a response to this thread and in what's left of your pin prick mind you think that links to another thread from 4 months ago? You need to get better meds. As for the "sweetie" go check shoes somewhere else, but no judgement.
Those Cadex brakes do not mitigate recoil very well and send a lot of shit directly to the shooter. I have a Heathen G2 5 port also and it doesn't work as well as my 5 port MBM Super Beast 2
Muzzle Brakes and More, or Terminator brakes are my go to.
I find the cadex is fine for the shooter, but not for the spotter unless directly behind the shooter. My experience with them has been different, although not to say you're wrong. Shooting 10 feet away from a 338 using the same brake almost blew my pants off though, and I was laying prone.
Going to have to check out the MBM now.
I will say the Heathen G2 isn't bad, just not as effective as the MBM.
However the Heathen has 90* ports so it's more friendly that way.
The Tacops brake has made a huge difference in the felt recoil. I cranked off 10 rounds today and the recoil was no worse than full power 308! Excellent product and a great, great muzzle brake. I will say use plugs plus muffs because she is LOUD!! 
sounds like he's got shoulder issues, even without large calibers are much more enjoyable to shoot with a brake or a can
Or buy a couple and try them out.
