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Need a better muzzle brake

I wasn't saying yours doesn't work. I was stating what I believed it was and I never got good results from the ones I made. They did reduce recoil and work but either looked like crap or gave me to much blast. The best thing I made was a linear comp out of 40mm ti that made a 10.5" 5.56 tolerable but was 6" long.
 
You may not consider it viable but this particular aluminum is stronger and harder than mild steel, which is why we use it. Incidentally it's also stronger than Ti6Al4v Type 2 and about half the weight. Once anodized now the surface and the core are harder and stronger than the steel most companies make brakes from.

There are many thousand examples of these brakes on the market for over 5 years now. If it didn't work, we wouldn't be able to sell them nor would I even try. I'll stand by the statement that I've made for just as long as we've offered these brakes:

The PVA Ultralight series is the lightest, highest performing ultralight brake series in their respective market segments. Size to size and weight to weight; we win on weight to performance, cost to performance and size to performance time and time again.

You seem to have some pretty strong opinions of a product line that you have no experience with. If you don't want to count your time, cost and effort that's your prerogative. However, comparing that to my actual business is far from applicable. If you don't want to use aluminum it's simple: don't buy it. Plenty of people have and they're quite happy with them.
So if its so much stronger than steels why not make an aluminum barrel, or rifle action without steel inserts. Airplane landing gear, or car axels, out of your special aluminum.
Stronger for its weight and anodizing are selling points of aluminum, and have application in industry, where weight is the priority, like airplane wings, & fuselage.
Which have also been made out of cloth and wood back in the day.
Anodizing is very thin and wears off, then ya have soft aluminum exposed.

For brakes I usually make or buy Stainless Steel to match the stainless steel barrel I install, even using the part of the unused barrel blank...if super accuracy is desired, and sometimes do not cut the barrel for a brake at all.
So the heat expansion is the same throughout the barrel, with all stainless steel.
Aluminum heats up very quickly, with a drastic expansion ratio, much different than the SS barrel. And a Stainless brake can be modified without messing with the thin anodizing causing it to lose all of its hardness, and some of the structural integrity.
Although easy to machine I will not ever buy or make a brake out of aluminum.
And thanks for giving me permission not to buy an aluminum brake...but it's my personal choice, not to do so.
Like I said, your stainless brakes could be considered, although a little long.
Depends on application, accuracy needs, recoil reduction needs, and personal choices.
 
It's important to note that he said it's stronger than mild steel. The steel used to make rifle barrels is not mild steel and is much stronger.
If I had to take a guess the alloy is 7075 which has a tensile strength of 540–590 MPa (78,000–86,000 psi). Mild steel is around 370 to 450 MPa (54,000 to 65,300 psi). Barrel steels such as 4140 have a tensile strength 480 to 690 MPa (70,000-100,000 psi). Stainless barrels are even higher than that.
 
Mild steel is stronger, heavier, and cheaper than aluminum.
Each can be alloyed to improve certain properties, but steels win the strength race whether starting at the mild state or heavily alloyed state to far exceed that of any aluminum alloy, but are much heavier.

Aluminum wins in applications where weight is a primary consideration, like airplanes wings. But not in high heat, high strength parts like brakes, where high heat and loss of strength would cause complete brake failure, with aluminum parts, here 1200° will melt aluminum, heavily alloyed steel will take the heat to 2000° without loss of strength called Inconel, also used in nuclear reactor cooling towers.
In the weight to strength category, aluminum is ahead cause it's 3 times lighter than steel....but loses that edge fast as heat is applied, as it has a very low melting point.
I don't use mild steel or aluminum in my muzzle brakes.
 
I don't know but the finish and threads(?) look like shit...amateurish. Probably dangerous to bystanders.
More like a weak pipe bomb, from the looks of it.
What? You can’t even see the threads and the finish is exemplary. Why did you feel you needed to post this. It looks like many other muzzle breaks. STFU
 
On my 300 PRC I've tried:

- APA Gen 2 Lil Bastard
- APA Gen 3 Lil Bastard
- Hellfire Match
- Terminator T3 (current)

All felt similar, here's the ins and outs of each:

APA Gen 2 Lil Bastard:
- Good brake, solid recoil reduction without being massive
- Easy to take off
- Less easy to time due to it creeping when tightening the locking nut
- Loud

APA Gen 3 Lil Bastard:
- Same as Gen 2, but slightly better at not creeping
- Gave this to a friend of mine who got a 300 PRC

Hellfire Match
- Similar recoil reduction to the APA and also loud
- Easier to time (no creep), but harder to take off and clean. This was the deal killer for me. It has been relegated to my 308 wind practice rifle.

Terminator T3
- Excellent brake with great recoil reduction.
- Seems less loud, but it could just be my hearing going :)
- Far, far, far easier to take off and clean (it is not self timing)
- The main "negative" is that must be timed to the barrel when cutting it. This adds cost, but something I gladly pay to get back the ease of removal and reinstallation (not to mention consistency of placement).

They all have their pros and cons. If you don't mind having your barrel timed for the brake, the Terminator brakes are the bomb (I also have one on my 37XC - a T5). If you must go self-timed, my recommendation would be one APA brakes (Lil Bastard or Fat Bastard - either is fine) in stainless steel (for ease of cleaning using chemicals that would otherwise kill the finish on the black ones). Additionally, APA now has this gizmo called the Cone of Shame, which creates a small sound block heading back toward the shooter. I bought one to try it on my 6mm, and it does reduce sound.
 
Get a Cadex MX1. People talk highly of the heathen brake, which I also have, but I feel like the cadex is better at mitigating recoil.
Those Cadex brakes do not mitigate recoil very well and send a lot of shit directly to the shooter. I have a Heathen G2 5 port also and it doesn't work as well as my 5 port MBM Super Beast 2

Muzzle Brakes and More, or Terminator brakes are my go to.
 
Those Cadex brakes do not mitigate recoil very well and send a lot of shit directly to the shooter. I have a Heathen G2 5 port also and it doesn't work as well as my 5 port MBM Super Beast 2

Muzzle Brakes and More, or Terminator brakes are my go to.
I find the cadex is fine for the shooter, but not for the spotter unless directly behind the shooter. My experience with them has been different, although not to say you're wrong. Shooting 10 feet away from a 338 using the same brake almost blew my pants off though, and I was laying prone.

Going to have to check out the MBM now.
 
I find the cadex is fine for the shooter, but not for the spotter unless directly behind the shooter. My experience with them has been different, although not to say you're wrong. Shooting 10 feet away from a 338 using the same brake almost blew my pants off though, and I was laying prone.

Going to have to check out the MBM now.
I will say the Heathen G2 isn't bad, just not as effective as the MBM.
However the Heathen has 90* ports so it's more friendly that way.
 
Maybe you shouldn't shoot large calibers until you are ready for them.
sounds like he's got shoulder issues, even without large calibers are much more enjoyable to shoot with a brake or a can

There are over 100 brakes and over 100 opinions which is best pick one and hope for the best
Or buy a couple and try them out.