Could It Be A Slower Tikka Barrel?

T

Turkeytider

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Jun 23, 2022
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#1
It’s my understanding that Tikka barrels generally shoot slower than others. If that’s true, could that at least be a contributing factor to having to put in more elevation than what’s called for in ballistic calibration for a given factory round? I’m fully aware that mv variability can play a role as well. During my “ get acquainted “ period with my 6.5 Creed Super Varmint I’ve had to dial in some elevation over and above that called for in the calculator. Once doped correctly, though, the gun is VERY accurate at 500 yards. Just wish our range was longer.
 
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#3
Gwak06 said:
Did you use a chronograph?
Click to expand...
OP, how did you determine MV for your ballistic calculator? Did you look at average muzzle velocities posted online for your barrel length with that specific cartridge? Or are you just using the MV printed on the box of ammo?
 
#6
PappyM3 said:
OP, how did you determine MV for your ballistic calculator? Did you look at average muzzle velocities posted online for your barrel length with that specific cartridge? Or are you just using the MV printed on the box of ammo?
Click to expand...
I was just using the manufacturer’s stated MV. I’m a relative rookie at rifle shooting, but I’m aware that there are inherent inaccuracies in doing that.
 
#8
It's my experience that Tikka in 6.5 creedmoor do shoot slow. I'm not sure if it carries over to any other calibers but more than just myself have experienced this. I can't recall the exact numbers but I'd say you lose about 100fps compared to other manufacturers.
 
#9
Box stated velocities are often exaggerated.

See if you can shoot with someone who owns a chrono and get real numbers.


Barrels can shoot slow too.
And the above is true for any rifle once you push past 100 yd groups.
 
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#10
Turkeytider said:
I was just using the manufacturer’s stated MV. I’m a relative rookie at rifle shooting, but I’m aware that there are inherent inaccuracies in doing that.
Click to expand...
Many apps will give you the option to “true” your muzzle velocity by entering what it takes to actually hit centered at distance.

Set up your height over bore, twist rate, bullet weight length bc.
You zero at 100, enter that as your zero distance.

And then shoot it at distance. If you find you need 7 mils instead of 6 to hit center in the plate at 800 yards you can enter that and it will back you into a velocity that jives.
A good zero is vital though.


I prefer a chronograph myself but sometimes that doesn’t guarantee a match up, thus the truing.
 
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#11
Yes Tikka barrel are consistently slow compared to other factory barrels as has been covered numerous times and is considered general knowledge except for on cockslide where they just refuse to admit it.

Those factory box specs are usually with a high quality 24” barrel so it’s more on the end of best case scenario.

My experience with many Tikkas has been that you will generally see 150-200fps slower than box velocity with the 22-24” barrel models.

If you want a good point of reference to true your velocity from subtract 175fps from box velocity and go from there.
 
#12
Thanks everybody, I really do appreciate everyone taking the time and trouble to reply. May well be more than one factor involved here. More than anything, I was curious to see what others thought about the Tikka barrel possibly being a contributing factor to my shooting low and having to adjust up a bit from the calculated elevation value. If I were trying to shoot out to 1K yards, I might try to to explore a bit more, particularly if I where using the loads in question ( AAC 140 grain SMK and Hornady American Gunner 140 grain HPBT ).
By the way, for anyone range shooting 6.5 Creed, FWIW, both of those are REALLY liked by my Tikka. When I do get the dope right, there’s not much problem stacking hits with both inside a 5” target at 500 yards. And…..they’re budget friendly!
 
#13
redneckbmxer24 said:
Yes Tikka barrel are consistently slow compared to other factory barrels as has been covered numerous times and is considered general knowledge except for on cockslide where they just refuse to admit it.

Those factory box specs are usually with a high quality 24” barrel so it’s more on the end of best case scenario.

My experience with many Tikkas has been that you will generally see 150-200fps slower than box velocity with the 22-24” barrel models.

If you want a good point of reference to true your velocity from subtract 175fps from box velocity and go from there.
Click to expand...
Thanks, appreciate it. I’ll give that MV alteration a try.
 
#14
Turkeytider said:
Thanks everybody, I really do appreciate everyone taking the time and trouble to reply. May well be more than one factor involved here. More than anything, I was curious to see what others thought about the Tikka barrel possibly being a contributing factor to my shooting low and having to adjust up a bit from the calculated elevation value. If I were trying to shoot out to 1K yards, I might try to to explore a bit more, particularly if I where using the loads in question ( AAC 140 grain SMK and Hornady American Gunner 140 grain HPBT ).
By the way, for anyone range shooting 6.5 Creed, FWIW, both of those are REALLY liked by my Tikka. When I do get the dope right, there’s not much problem stacking hits with both inside a 5” target at 500 yards. And…..they’re budget friendly!
Click to expand...
It’s not shooting “low” if you don’t have actual MV. As said, you are comparing field performance w what the box MV says it should be.

I bet if you chrono’d the MV you’d find your elevations to be spot on or at least close.

And yes, different barrels often provide diff MV and hence required elevation.

Best of luck
 
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#16
Baron23 said:
It’s not shooting “low” if you don’t have actual MV. As said, you are comparing field performance w what the box MV says it should be.

I bet if you chrono’d the MV you’d find your elevations to be spot on or at least close.

And yes, different barrels often provide diff MV and hence required elevation.

Best of luck
Click to expand...

I wonder what people used to do before magnetospeeds and pocket chronos that are accurate AF came along? When the only chronos were shoot throughs that could at best be depended on for a quick string to get ES and SD for load development and otherwise couldn’t be trusted for actual velocity…

Must be nice to be so new to all of this stuff that all you know is today’s gear.

There are many ways to determine MV and actually going out and shooting at distance is one of them.
 
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#17
scubapro187 said:
It's my experience that Tikka in 6.5 creedmoor do shoot slow. I'm not sure if it carries over to any other calibers but more than just myself have experienced this. I can't recall the exact numbers but I'd say you lose about 100fps compared to other manufacturers.
Click to expand...
This has been my experience as well. I am hoping the tradeoff is that they maybe last longer?
 
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