Any Tikka T1X owners had a firing pin break ? Mines not broken but I have seen posts here and on other sites where a few owners have had them break.
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I’ve been shooting mine for well over a year now with no issues. I remeber a flurry of reports of broken firing pins when the T1x first launched…I was kind of concerned when I first got mine. It’s been a complete non-issue for me. But if it does happen, you can buy the parts from Beretta.Any Tikka T1X owners had a firing pin break ? Mines not broken but I have seen posts here and on other sites where a few owners have had them break.
How many rounds and/or dry fire reps prior to that?Mine broke on my first shot at my first NRL match.
Talked to Beretta's "horrible" CS through their online chat. They sent me a new one right away, no questions asked.
Imho pins only break from the accumulated stress of dry firing.Mine did, after 2 years and 1 month.
Probably 10,000ish rounds through it.
It broke when a friend was dry firing it and ended up peening crater in the back of the barrel.
Sent it back to Beretta NZ who repalced the firing pin and cleaned up the crater.
I have about 1500 rounds through my T1X without any problems. I do not dry fire my rim fire rifles withouta spent round in the chamberThanks for all your replies gentlemen, keep them coming. I know I always really watch about dry firing, when I do use the mag I always check when I get close to the mag being empty, I keep fired cases from my rifle for trigger work.
Mine broke around 8K rounds. Only dry fire was dropping on an empty chamber before putting away. Nope, not doing it anymore. The Canadian distributor wanted me to send the rifle to them and wait. Considering the postage would have been 40% of the cost of a new firing pin, I bought the last 1 in Canada a couple months ago.Imho pins only break from the accumulated stress of dry firing.
One of the very few design 'flaws' of T1x is the firing pin has over travel, and will strike the back of the barrel chamber.
Dryfire 'practice' requires using some kind of barrier to prevent contact between the hardened steel pin and the steel barrel.
At 10,000+ rounds i can also imagine enough 'empty mag' dry- fire / pin drops could start to add up as well.
Its only a negative in that the t1x is otherwise so no-nonsense, i could see it being used for decades without really having a hiccup other than that.
I started tracking when my T1X mag went empty when my firing pin broke about 7K rnds in. I bought the last one in Canada.I just broke the 2nd firing pin on My T1x, can't say I'm too impressed.
Awesome! Have you tried one yet?another option besides the two piece titanium/steel one: https://borebuddy.com/product/t1x-fp/
Yep, I was the engineer who did the design/material/HT specs on that project. I've got one in my personal T1x.Awesome! Have you tried one yet?
Is that a steel one? Is there a pro/con list on steel vs Ti firing pins?
Thank you for this detailed reply. Nice to have the context from an actual engineer.Ti generally has no benefits over a properly made steel firing pin. A Ti pin with an O2 steel tip press fit into it (like the one that was available on the RFC classifieds for a while) sounds like chamber damage waiting to happen if/when the tip decides to creep forward when dry fired (intentionally or otherwise). The steel of firing pin tips fail under dry fire conditions, so expecting a press fit to stay put under the same conditions is probably overly optimistic.
Wish you would ship to CanadaYep, I was the engineer who did the design/material/HT specs on that project. I've got one in my personal T1x.
Ti generally has no benefits over a properly made steel firing pin. A Ti pin with an O2 steel tip press fit into it (like the one that was available on the RFC classifieds for a while) sounds like chamber damage waiting to happen if/when the tip decides to creep forward when dry fired (intentionally or otherwise). The steel of firing pin tips fail under dry fire conditions, so expecting a press fit to stay put under the same conditions is probably overly optimistic.
I wish we could too without all the expense of going though our exporter, but such is life. We're hoping to find a Canadian shop to be a distributor to ship to in bulk, but so far we have not found any shops in Canada that are interested.Wish you would ship to Canada
So far, we have had absolutely no issues with the O1 tool steel tips creeping out of our titanium firing pins. I have dry fired one of our titanium firing pins thousands of times with no measurable difference of the tip moving. Our tips are far less likely of breaking then any one-piece steel firing pin available as well. Some may be worried about a lighter pin having less inertia but with the design of the fairly large striker in the T1x the actually firing pin has little effect of that. One other feature of our titanium firing pin is the shape of the tip and how much it strikes the rim. If you notice in the picture the strike is within the rim of the case and doesn't smash the rim too much similar to how a lot of the BR guys prefer.Yep, I was the engineer who did the design/material/HT specs on that project. I've got one in my personal T1x.
Ti generally has no benefits over a properly made steel firing pin. A Ti pin with an O2 steel tip press fit into it (like the one that was available on the RFC classifieds for a while) sounds like chamber damage waiting to happen if/when the tip decides to creep forward when dry fired (intentionally or otherwise). The steel of firing pin tips fail under dry fire conditions, so expecting a press fit to stay put under the same conditions is probably overly optimistic.
This is not typical, contact Tikka and report it.Hi Chris,
I would just like to know how to get one of your firing pins. My firing pin broke before I even got a chance to shoot it. I was dry firing it to smooth out the action and noticed the breech face was impacted by the firing pin. When I took the action out to adjust the trigger, I noticed a cam pin dropping out of the action. I was trying to find the place where the cam pin went when I realized it was the tip of my firing pin. What a shit design. To not be able to dry fire any rifle made during the last 50 years is just nuts and huge design flaw!!! There is no reason a firing pin would ever need to travel far enough to impact the breech face under any circumstance. Had I known this, I would have never purchased the Tikka and would have gone with CZ instead.
Thanks,
Graham
I believe Jerry Stiller presses the tips into his 2500X actions, probably one of the most accurate rimfire actions ever made. I'm sure the factory pins are made from 4140 or something similar but I am unsure of their exact heat-treating process but it's very likely the temper is more than that (Straw yellow 430 Deg. F) and then black oxide coated (blued)This is not typical, contact Tikka and report it.
Can anyone point to an example of a two piece press-fit firing pin that has a history of reliability? I think inconsistent surface finish and/or improper heat treat is the main issue with the stock pin. The factory pins are heat treated in the blue brittleness zone (marked by a blue oxide layer from the temper). I do not know what grade of steel the factory pin is made of, but blue parts after HT intended for impact use is usually a bad sign...
I'll say. Stoeger charges $95 plus shipping for the firing pin assembly and won't sell the pin by itself. Was not expecting that.Wish you would ship to Canada
They're like $80-ish as well from what i've seen, but like you say its a complete assembly not just the FP. That being said, its probably also not a bad idea to swap out the spring as well, if at 10k round-mark or whatever. The part that's hard to swallow is if you are a looking for a spare...I'd much rather do a FP only sku thats say $30 with no extra parts or $ cost as dead weight in everyday range bag, etc.I'll say. Stoeger charges $95 plus shipping for the firing pin assembly and won't sell the pin by itself. Was not expecting that.