Anyone manually dump and trickle on a A&D FX120i?

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Marv_2101

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Minuteman
Jun 12, 2024
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#1
Considering getting a FX120i and manually throwing powder and trickling up. Was considering a rcbs chargemaster supreme but I believe the fx120i would be more precise and leave me options for upgrading in the future. If you do something similar post pictures of your setup.
 
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#4
I started with RCBS Chargemasters (older model) many years ago. I wanted to improve the accuracy of the charge weights so I bought an A&D FX-120i and started checking the charges. Needless to say, checking the weights, the Chargemasters were throwing all over the place. I now throw with the Chargemaster, and add or remove kernels with tweezers as needed when they are weighed on the A&D FX-120i.
There are a lot of options out there (throw with something, trickle with something, scoop, etc.), it comes down to budget, desired speed, and ease of operation.
There is no question that the A&D FX-120i is one of the best, if not the best investment, that any reloader can make!
 
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#5
If you are going to be serious, then get the AD. It's a 100X better to then have the v3+IP but with the AD only at least you can add to it and you get a good scale. I started with a chargemaster myself but it doesn't compare to the AD120. Though the v3+IP is a whole other level and truly will change what loading is for you
 
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#6
I spent more on all the shitty scales I bought leading up to the A&D than the A&D cost to begin with. At first, I used a powder dropper on my bench and a manual trickler over the A&D. It was 10x better than anything I had leading up to it.

Then I got the Auto Trickler...

Then I added the IP trickler...

Each ranks among the best purchases I've made for reloading.
 
#7
BuildingConceptsllc said:
If you are going to be serious, then get the AD. It's a 100X better to then have the v3+IP but with the AD only at least you can add to it and you get a good scale. I started with a chargemaster myself but it doesn't compare to the AD120. Though the v3+IP is a whole other level and truly will change what loading is for you
Click to expand...
I’m pretty much set on going the A&D fx120i route for the scale for sure. This and and manual powder throw and trickle wouldn’t be much more than a chargemaster supreme and would be a lot more precise. Not to mention could alway add the V4 auto trickler in the future if I felt the need to speed things up.
 
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#8
Rocketmandb said:
I spent more on all the shitty scales I bought leading up to the A&D than the A&D cost to begin with. At first, I used a powder dropper on my bench and a manual trickler over the A&D. It was 10x better than anything I had leading up to it.

Then I got the Auto Trickler...

Then I added the IP trickler...

Each ranks among the best purchases I've made for reloading.
Click to expand...
How did you have your manual trickler setup over the A&D? And which trickler did you use in this particular setup?
 
#10
My Hornady digital scale included with the single stage press package is very close to my A&D. Obviously not as competent but close nonetheless.
I’ve not extensively tested it over many measures but consistently over a few measures it’s very close. Just like the A&D measures overthrows from the V4 with certain powders and I manually remove a kernel, I learned to manage the Hornady hopper/scale combo similarly and achieved good SD and ES numbers and accuracy. That being said, the V4 and 120i combo is just super efficient and saves a lot of time.
 
#11
Marv_2101 said:
I’m pretty much set on going the A&D fx120i route for the scale for sure. This and and manual powder throw and trickle wouldn’t be much more than a chargemaster supreme and would be a lot more precise. Not to mention could alway add the V4 auto trickler in the future if I felt the need to speed things up.
Click to expand...
I'd do a manual dropper with the IP trickler before a v4. Now the v3+IP is way way better than any other option out there right now, but to get started a manual plus the IP trickler is a good set up. Of course you can start with the scale only and build or save for the new IP whole system which you could add to the scale whenever it comes out. I suspect that will be the king of the mountain for quite a while
 
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#12
Marv_2101 said:
Considering getting a FX120i and manually throwing powder and trickling up. Was considering a rcbs chargemaster supreme but I believe the fx120i would be more precise and leave me options for upgrading in the future. If you do something similar post pictures of your setup.
Click to expand...
I've got the FX-120i, as I mentioned before and I've had the Ingenuity Precision Powder System order to go with it (ordered it about year ago and am expecting it next month). Also, as I had previously mentioned, here's a picture of my current setup, which I find faster, more accurate and more consistent than my ChargeMater-1500:
Powder charging setup.jpg
 
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#14
Marv_2101 said:
How did you have your manual trickler setup over the A&D? And which trickler did you use in this particular setup?
Click to expand...
Note: My Frankford Arsenal Powder Trickler you see in my picture mounted on top of the FX-120i hasa clear plastic tube attached on the end so that I can actually see how many kernels are about to drop. To drop a kernel or more, I simply tap the turning grip, either lightly, heavily or multiple time to get the amount of trickle I need for the exact target weight. If, on occasion more than I need drops in, I've got that little yellow scoop to take out what I need for the correct weight; it doesn't happen very often. That clear straw on the end really helps with controlling just how many kernels are dropped; it's a time saver.
 
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#15
BuildingConceptsllc said:
I'd do a manual dropper with the IP trickler before a v4. Now the v3+IP is way way better than any other option out there right now, but to get started a manual plus the IP trickler is a good set up. Of course you can start with the scale only and build or save for the new IP whole system which you could add to the scale whenever it comes out. I suspect that will be the king of the mountain for quite a while
Click to expand...
Can you run just the IP trickler and the scale? I thought it had to be linked to something. My apologies for all the dumbass questions I’m new to all this and researching as I go. If you can run it this way that should be pretty quick setup.
 
#16
straightshooter1 said:
Note: My Frankford Arsenal Powder Trickler you see in my picture mounted on top of the FX-120i hasa clear plastic tube attached on the end so that I can actually see how many kernels are about to drop. To drop a kernel or more, I simply tap the turning grip, either lightly, heavily or multiple time to get the amount of trickle I need for the exact target weight. If, on occasion more than I need drops in, I've got that little yellow scoop to take out what I need for the correct weight; it doesn't happen very often. That clear straw on the end really helps with controlling just how many kernels are dropped; it's a time saver.
Click to expand...
I’ll more than likely do something like what you have done because I’m cheap. Did sitting the trickler on the scale like that not effect the weights or anything?
 
#18
Rocketmandb said:
I spent more on all the shitty scales I bought leading up to the A&D than the A&D cost to begin with. At first, I used a powder dropper on my bench and a manual trickler over the A&D. It was 10x better than anything I had leading up to it.

Then I got the Auto Trickler...

Then I added the IP trickler...

Each ranks among the best purchases I've made for reloading.
Click to expand...

Me too. Well before that I was manually dropping with a Vic123.
 
#19
Marv_2101 said:
Can you run just the IP trickler and the scale? I thought it had to be linked to something. My apologies for all the dumbass questions I’m new to all this and researching as I go. If you can run it this way that should be pretty quick setup.
Click to expand...
As stated, you need the V3 electronics that install into the back of the A&D scale, a connection cable for the IP Trickler, and a new power supply (I don’t think the one that comes with the scale supplies enough power to run the trickler). All three of these items are available from Adam on the AutoTrickler website for a total of about $100.00.
If you’re not ready to drop the entire load of cash at once, I think it’s a good idea to start with the A&D scale and an inexpensive manual powder measure and trickler. It will get you going and you will be able to obtain extremely accurate charge weights with a scale that doesn’t drive you crazy drifting all the time. Later, when you’re ready to spend more for upgrades you’ll already have the scale you need for that.
I went from a beam scale and manual thrower and trickler (for decades) to the A&D scale (still manual thrower and trickler), to now using the A&D with manual thrower and the IP Trickler. Each step was a quantum leap forward in ease and convenience. I am currently waiting on IP to release their complete system so I can upgrade to auto-throw as well (I will just be purchasing the auto-thrower upgrade kit, as I already have everything else.

Manual trickler setup I used (and no, the trickler sitting there on the lid doesn’t affect the scale because the windscreen and lid don’t contact the platen of the scale, they contact the scale housing):
IMG_7621.jpeg

IP Trickler setup I’m currently using:
IMG_7972.jpeg

The manual thrower is mounted to the press.
 
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#20
@Marv_2101 ,

EDIT: I screwed up! here is the correct analysis.

If you will let me I'd like to point something out going back to the Chargemaster question and not trying to pick a favorite here but to answer you question on what's good enough. If you look at loading your 30-06 for 1000yds you might pick the 175 SMK as the bullet and load to about 2750 fps. That would be a max or near max load. Depending one the powder the variation in velocity for 0.1 gn difference in powder is about 5 to 6fps so at 1000 yds that equates to a spread of 12 fps for 0.2 gr spread. The variation in POI due to that 12 fps is going to be about 0.4 MOA or about 4.4 inches. That would be +/-2.1" compared to you average waterline (POI).

EDiT: The is an error in this paragraph below. See Post #39

EDIT: I screwed up! here is the correct analysis.
A rifle that shots a true 0.5 MOA group at 100 yds is not going to shoot any better at that @1000YDS so the spread 0.5 MOA grows to 5 MOA or 5.2". The drop at 1000 yds for the 12 fps is ~4.4 " so I screwed up. that would 4.2 MOA. So the correct difference is SQRT (5^2+4.2^2) or 6.5 MOA or 1.6" contribution. The 0.2 MOA at 100 becomes a 2 MOA group at 1000 and with the 12 fps velocity spread it becomes SQRT(2^2+4.2^2) or 4.7 MOA or about 2.8" contribution. So in the .5 MOA rifle case the velocity adds about 1.6" and 0.2 MOA rifle case it adds 2.8".

Going back to your original questions on the scale/dispenser only you can make the determination as to which/what is right for you. But having real expectations as to what the outcome on target will be is more important than specifications or statistically insignificant data.

Good luck.
 
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#21
vh20 said:
As stated, you need the V3 electronics that install into the back of the A&D scale, a connection cable for the IP Trickler, and a new power supply (I don’t think the one that comes with the scale supplies enough power to run the trickler). All three of these items are available from Adam on the AutoTrickler website for a total of about $100.00.
If you’re not ready to drop the entire load of cash at once, I think it’s a good idea to start with the A&D scale and an inexpensive manual powder measure and trickler. It will get you going and you will be able to obtain extremely accurate charge weights with a scale that doesn’t drive you crazy drifting all the time. Later, when you’re ready to spend more for upgrades you’ll already have the scale you need for that.
I went from a beam scale and manual thrower and trickler (for decades) to the A&D scale (still manual thrower and trickler), to now using the A&D with manual thrower and the IP Trickler. Each step was a quantum leap forward in ease and convenience. I am currently waiting on IP to release their complete system so I can upgrade to auto-throw as well (I will just be purchasing the auto-thrower upgrade kit, as I already have everything else.

Manual trickler setup I used (and no, the trickler sitting there on the lid doesn’t affect the scale because the windscreen and lid don’t contact the platen of the scale, they contact the scale housing):
View attachment 8530114
IP Trickler setup I’m currently using:
View attachment 8530117
The manual thrower is mounted to the press.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the pictures sir. Does anyone use the dandy trickler anymore? Seemed to be highly recommended in the past.
 
#22
Doom said:
@Marv_2101 ,



So what is the real world effect, assuming a rifle (and shooter) that can soot 0.5 MOA at 100 yds. That 0.5 MOA at 100yds becomes 10*0.5 MOA or 5 MOA at 1000yds. If the rifle and shooter is very good (bench rest quality) such that they are capable of 0.2 MOA at 100 yds then that becomes 2 MOA at 1000yds.
Click to expand...
Did you mean to say "inches" at 1000 yds? (and assuming you're just rounding off to 1 inch per MOA)
 
#23
Doom said:
@Marv_2101 ,

If you will let me I'd like to point something out going back to the Chargemaster question and not trying to pick a favorite here but to answer you question on what's good enough. If you look at loading your 30-06 for 1000yds you might pick the 175 SMK as the bullet and load to about 2750 fps. That would be a max or near max load. Depending one the powder the variation in velocity for 0.1 gn difference in powder is about 5 to 6fps so at 1000 yds that equates to a spread of 12 fps for 0.2 gr spread. The variation in POI due to that 12 fps is going to be about 0.4 MOA or about 4.2 inches. That would be +/-2.1" compared to you average waterline (POI).

So what is the real world effect, assuming a rifle (and shooter) that can soot 0.5 MOA at 100 yds. That 0.5 MOA at 100yds becomes 10*0.5 MOA or 5 MOA at 1000yds. The combined effect of rifle, shooter, and powder variation becomes the SQRT (5^2+.4^2) OR 5.02 MOA. THE WEIGHT VARIANCE ADDS 0.02*10 OR 0.2". If the rifle and shooter is very good (bench rest quality) such that they are capable of 0.2 MOA at 100 yds then that becomes 2 MOA at 1000yds. Adding the powder weight variance it becomes SQRT(2^2+.4^2) or 2.04 MOA. THE WEIGHT VARIANCE ADDS 0.04*10 OR .4".

Going back to your original questions on the scale/dispenser only you can make the determination as to which/what is right for you. But having real expectations as to what the outcome on target will be is more important than specifications or statistically insignificant data.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the breakdown sir not doubting the chargemaster wouldn’t fit my needs but I’m overthinking it now and have made my mind up on the fx120i. Do I need it? Probably not, but it will be precise and give me piece of mind as a new reloader.

And if I do get into competitive shooting I’ll have a good base to build off of if I ever want to speed the process up.
 
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#26
vh20 said:
As stated, you need the V3 electronics that install into the back of the A&D scale, a connection cable for the IP Trickler, and a new power supply (I don’t think the one that comes with the scale supplies enough power to run the trickler). All three of these items are available from Adam on the AutoTrickler website for a total of about $100.00.
If you’re not ready to drop the entire load of cash at once, I think it’s a good idea to start with the A&D scale and an inexpensive manual powder measure and trickler. It will get you going and you will be able to obtain extremely accurate charge weights with a scale that doesn’t drive you crazy drifting all the time. Later, when you’re ready to spend more for upgrades you’ll already have the scale you need for that.
I went from a beam scale and manual thrower and trickler (for decades) to the A&D scale (still manual thrower and trickler), to now using the A&D with manual thrower and the IP Trickler. Each step was a quantum leap forward in ease and convenience. I am currently waiting on IP to release their complete system so I can upgrade to auto-throw as well (I will just be purchasing the auto-thrower upgrade kit, as I already have everything else.

Manual trickler setup I used (and no, the trickler sitting there on the lid doesn’t affect the scale because the windscreen and lid don’t contact the platen of the scale, they contact the scale housing):
View attachment 8530114
IP Trickler setup I’m currently using:
View attachment 8530117
The manual thrower is mounted to the press.
Click to expand...
What’s the block under it?
 
#28
That’s about where I’m at now, I’m practically done shooting for the year but still decided to load the last 200rnds and was using my fa intellidropper, it’s painfully slow and now that I load my match ammo in bulk on my 650 it just can’t keep up. I’ve had it for over a year and my sds never went above 9 but I just need speed and waiting on the ip setup is just getting lame. 120scale, a thrower and trickler will be leaps and bounds ahead of where I’m at now. I hate reloading so if I can find my charge and seating I’m more than happy loading up 800rds and letting the press and scale sit for months
 
#31
vh20 said:
Yes I know, as I indicated you were rounding off. I'm trying to understand what you meant by a 0.5 MOA group at 100 becoming a 5 MOA group at 1000...
Click to expand...
EDIT: Error in this analysis. Go to post #39


A rifle that shots a true 0.5 MOA group at 100 yds is not going to shoot any better at that @1000YDS so the spread 0.5 MOA grows to 5 MOA or 5.2". The drop at 1000 yds for the 12 fps is ~4.4 " so I screwed up. That would 4.2 MOA. So the correct difference is SQRT (5^2+4.2^2) or 6.5 MOA or 1.6" contribution. The 0.2 MOA at 100 becomes a 2 MOA group at 1000 and with the 12 fps velocity spread it becomes SQRT(2^2+4.2^2) or 4.7 MOA or about 2.8" contribution. So in the .5 MOA rifle case the velocity adds about 1.6" and 0.2 MOA rifle case it adds 2.8".


Thanks for catching this. I posted this right before I took the wife to the Dr so I didn't run a check. I revised post #20.
 
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#32
Marv_2101 said:
Thank you for the pictures sir. Does anyone use the dandy trickler anymore? Seemed to be highly recommended in the past.
Click to expand...
I seriously thought about getting the dandy trickler a few years back, but using the manual trickler I have and the way I use it works so well I just couldn't see how there'd be any real improvement.

Last year I had ordered the Ingenuity trickler (not the full system) as I had decided that was the one tool that could make a good difference. Not long afterwards Ingenuity announced the full automatic throwing system and I decided that's I'd really splurge for the convenience. That's how the rabbit hole goes! ;)
 
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#33
straightshooter1 said:
I seriously thought about getting the dandy trickler a few years back, but using the manual trickler I have and the way I use it works so well I just couldn't see how there'd be any real improvement.

Last year I had ordered the Ingenuity trickler (not the full system) as I had decided that was the one tool that could make a good difference. Not long afterwards Ingenuity announced the full automatic throwing system and I decided that's I'd really splurge for the convenience. That's how the rabbit hole goes! ;)
Click to expand...
I’ve got a friend that shoots PRS and he has a rcbs manual trickler he is going to give me and walk me threw his reloading process. I’ll probably order the Lee perfect powder thrower to go with it and have about $620 in my setup but should be extremely consistent.
 
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#34
Doom said:
A rifle that shots a true 0.5 MOA group at 100 yds is not going to shoot any better at that @1000YDS so the spread 0.5 MOA grows to 5 MOA or 5.2". The drop at 1000 yds for the 12 fps is ~4.4 " so I screwed up. That would 4.2 MOA. So the correct difference is SQRT (5^2+4.2^2) or 6.5 MOA or 1.6" contribution. The 0.2 MOA at 100 becomes a 2 MOA group at 1000 and with the 12 fps velocity spread it becomes SQRT(2^2+4.2^2) or 4.7 MOA or about 2.8" contribution. So in the .5 MOA rifle case the velocity adds about 1.6" and 0.2 MOA rifle case it adds 2.8".


Thanks for catching this. I posted this right before I took the wife to the Dr so I didn't run a check. I revised post #20.
Click to expand...
Well, that really wasn't the point of contention. A 0.5 MOA group @ 100 yds that grows to 5.2" @ 1000 is NOT a 5 MOA group as stated. It is still 0.5 MOA. A 5 MOA group at 1000 yds is 52+ inches, The 4.4 inch drop at 1000 is not a 4.2 MOA drop (it is a 0.42 MOA drop), the 0.2 MOA group @ 100 does not become a 2 MOA group at 1000, etc.
 
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#35
Marv_2101 said:
I’ve got a friend that shoots PRS and he has a rcbs manual trickler he is going to give me and walk me threw his reloading process. I’ll probably order the Lee perfect powder thrower to go with it and have about $620 in my setup but should be extremely consistent.
Click to expand...

If you do any ball or flake loading the Lee has problems. Find another higher quality thrower like RCBS or Redding.
 
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#36
Every so often I will drop and manually trickle powder if I need to do small batches and I'm not in a hurry. I have a RCBS powder thrower directly above my FX120, so it's easy to drop powder and put right onto the scale.

However, I use a different approach rather than trickling the powder onto the scale. I throw a charge just short of the target weight and then with a flat platform and a straight edge I will cut a certain number of kernels into the powder pan and NOT reweigh it. Powder kernels are on average quite consistent in size/weight, so you can do quick mental math to figure out how many kernels you are short. For example, Varget is 5 kernels per 0.1 grain, so if I initially throw 30.76 I'll cut in 12 kernels to reach 31 grains.

This is the same principle that the IP trickler uses to hit the target weight, dispensing a certain number of kernels rather than weighing as it adds powder.

I do my bulk loading with a Prometheus feeding a Dillon 550, but this alternate process is a reasonable alternative that's not too painfully slow. However if you're willing to spend a few dollars, the IP trickler plus V3 electronics is definitely the route to add to your FX120.
 
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#37
straightshooter1 said:
I seriously thought about getting the dandy trickler a few years back, but using the manual trickler I have and the way I use it works so well I just couldn't see how there'd be any real improvement.

Last year I had ordered the Ingenuity trickler (not the full system) as I had decided that was the one tool that could make a good difference. Not long afterwards Ingenuity announced the full automatic throwing system and I decided that's I'd really splurge for the convenience. That's how the rabbit hole goes! ;)
Click to expand...
Which manual powder thrower are you using in the picture you posted? Any issues with certain types of powders if your just trickling up?
 
#38
Marv_2101 said:
Which manual powder thrower are you using in the picture you posted? Any issues with certain types of powders if your just trickling up?
Click to expand...
It's the Lee Perfect Powder Measurer that came in the Lee Challenger Kit I bought when I first started reloading. I haven't had any real issues to complain about. Once on very rare occasions it'll cut a kernel, which feels like a little hang up as I go to drop a charge. As for ball powder, I haven't ever done any reloading with ball powder, but I have reloaded with small fake/disc powders like Alliant 2000-MR, Accurate MagPro and Alliant Unique, where I haven't had any issue with them; just haven't used them very much.
 
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#39
vh20 said:
Well, that really wasn't the point of contention. A 0.5 MOA group @ 100 yds that grows to 5.2" @ 1000 is NOT a 5 MOA group as stated. It is still 0.5 MOA. A 5 MOA group at 1000 yds is 52+ inches, The 4.4 inch drop at 1000 is not a 4.2 MOA drop (it is a 0.42 MOA drop), the 0.2 MOA group @ 100 does not become a 2 MOA group at 1000, etc.
Click to expand...
You are absolutely correct. I guess my losing sleep is catching up with me. Going by inches and throwing in 1 MOA shooter and rifle:

1MOA at 1000 yds is 10.47"
.5 MOA at 1000 yds is 5.2"
.2 MOA at 1000yds is 2.1"
4.4 inches is 4.3 MOA

SQRT(10.47^2+4.4^2) is 11.4" So the .9 increase is .9/11.4 x100 or ~8% of the total dispersion.
SQRT(5.2^2+4.4^2) is 6.8" So the 1.6 increase is 1.6/6.8 x100 or 23% of the total dispersion.
SQRT(2.1^2+4.4^2) is 4.9" So the 2.8" increase is 2.8/4.9 x100 or 57% of the total dispersion.

The bottom line is the improvement in reduction of powder error effect depends on the accuracy of the shooter and the rifle. On a 1 MOA rifle is very marginal. In the 0.2 MA case it can be a significant reduction.
 
#40
I manually trickle all of my calibers using TiteGroup. I use the Lee dipper scoops and the Lee Perfect measure for bulk throws. But then I use the V3 trickler to trickle up to finish. Mostly because the V3’s bulk thrower can’t get as low as some of my charge weights require.

It works very well.
 
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#41
NiteQwill said:
You can buy an A&D FX-120i, an ATV3 controller, and an Ingenuity Precision trickler. Use a Lee dropper to manually drop.

It would literally be faster than 98% of the shitty products out there.
Click to expand...

Very similar to my setup. I have the A&D with a V3 board and IP trickler. I dump 99% of the charge into the cup from a Redding powder measure away from the scale then put the cup onto the scale and let the IP trickle the rest.

I have found that my ES and SD's are much lower with this method than they are using the V3's powder dropper because i'm not getting any kernels splashing out of the cup onto the platten of the A&D.
 
#42
Doom said:
The bottom line is the improvement in reduction of powder error effect depends on the accuracy of the shooter and the rifle. On a 1 MOA rifle is very marginal. In the 0.2 MA case it can be a significant reduction.
Click to expand...
That part actually "came through" in your first post on the subject, it was just that the terminology wasn't matching - which is why my initial question to you was, did you mean to say that 0.5 MOA at 100 translates to (approx) 5 INCHES at 1000, and not 5 MOA. If you had said that, the whole thing would have been clear (even though we both know it's actually 5.23xxx inches, but 5 is close enough for the point you were making). I just didn't think you meant to state it that way, and was trying to point out the discrepancy.
 
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#43
CamoWhamo said:
Very similar to my setup. I have the A&D with a V3 board and IP trickler. I dump 99% of the charge into the cup from a Redding powder measure away from the scale then put the cup onto the scale and let the IP trickle the rest.

I have found that my ES and SD's are much lower with this method than they are using the V3's powder dropper because i'm not getting any kernels splashing out of the cup onto the platten of the A&D.
Click to expand...
It's working well for me, too. I set the powder measure (RCBS Uniflow I've had for over 40 years) to drop around 1.5gr under the target weight, set the cup on the scale and let the IP trickle up to the target while I seat the bullet from the previous drop. The trickle is done (accurately every time) long before I can finish seating the bullet.

That said, I can't wait for the rest of the IP system to come out (I am one of the earliest pre-orders on the list). I got tired of waiting for it (we're getting close to a year since I placed the preorder) and I was SICK of manual-trickling, pulling kernels out with tweezers for over-trickles every other time, etc. So I just bought the IP trickler alone (they were in stock and ready to ship), and converted my preorder from the complete system to just the upgrade to the trickler unit. It will cost more in the long run, but has been worth it in the short term due to the headaches and time it has been saving me since I got it. It is SO much better than manually trickling.
 
#44
Marv_2101 said:
Thank you for the breakdown sir not doubting the chargemaster wouldn’t fit my needs but I’m overthinking it now and have made my mind up on the fx120i. Do I need it? Probably not, but it will be precise and give me piece of mind as a new reloader.

And if I do get into competitive shooting I’ll have a good base to build off of if I ever want to speed the process up.
Click to expand...
You'll be happy with that scale/balance. You also be happy with having someone with experience guide you which in my mind is more important than any specific piece of equipment. There are so many rabbit holes that we can go down it helps having someone with experience to help avoid those that go nowhere. You've obviously touched on one here and whether the scale precision is important or not depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what you are willing to spend.

By the way, I have the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, Lyman 55, and RCBS Quick Change and have used all three. Preference: The Lee is as good as the others and I find it my go-to for pistol. As for ball powders it works fine.
 
#45
Doom said:
You'll be happy with that scale/balance. You also be happy with having someone with experience guide you which in my mind is more important than any specific piece of equipment. There are so many rabbit holes that we can go down it helps having someone with experience to help avoid those that go nowhere. You've obviously touched on one here and whether the scale precision is important or not depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what you are willing to spend.

By the way, I have the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, Lyman 55, and RCBS Quick Change and have used all three. Preference: The Lee is as good as the others and I find it my go-to for pistol. As for ball powders it works fine.
Click to expand...
So your Lee Perfect powder measure does good will ball powder? For $25-30 I’m strongly considering giving it a shot.
 
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