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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Mag well and butt are affixed and hardening. Since this is not a production unit I'm not taking the time to let each stage properly cure. It was a ton easier to affix them to the base chassis than it was to fabricate the bits themselves. Sometime later today I'll pull the rifle action from the chassis. I set the mag well up with the action in the stock to make sure I got all the angles of dangles right and zero'd out any slop: I insist that feeding from the mag be 100% right out of the box even if that means mags are a little snug fitting in the mag well. The rear of the action is retained, for now, in the stock by a hoop and the front is retained by the safety selector. I'll drill the holes for the cross bolts later but it's nice to see that it could be a tool-less arrangement if I wanted to. I have a good bit more FG work to do to finish the fencing around the mag release hardware and to set up the bag rider / spare mag well and getting the pistol grip boss affixed and reinforced but it's darned near ready for void filling and truing and then I can make a proper mold and then I can produce the final version. One thing I can say, even with the quick and dirty nature of this effort, it's one rigid little bastard.
I have bought all of my bolts but one used. They all have came with replacement bolt knobs. Anybody know of a source for them? I know the thread but the issue is knobs made without recessed threads make the handle far too long. The ones I have bought second hand have knobs that screw on but fit over the handle some vs screwing just to the end of the handle.
Mag well and butt plate initial durability tests are done. The thing is wicked strong. Working on the area behind the mag and the trigger guard & pistol grip.
The risers that are in production are moving along nicely. If good temperatures hold out they’ll be done this week.
The risers that are in production are moving along nicely. If good temperatures hold out they’ll be done this week.
One sec....
Just in front of the chamber it's approximately 1.5" to the top of the rail. If you're using the measure for scope height and adding to the advertised height of the rings then use 1.4". NOTE: For scope height measurement, you don't need to go to the 2nd decimal place. Keep in mind the M2 is equipped with a 30MOA rail so it's about 1/8" higher at the back than the front so there is no single number that will answer your question more precisely without the question being more precisely stated.
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Update
Passenger side.
Driver side.
Again, this is a developmental model meant to get the shape and features figured out, not a production unit or even a prototype as such. It's ugly and the FG is not wonderfully void free on purpose. I got the grip boss started and thought, why not make it long as hell. I have my reasons. I got the mag release roughed in (I rotated the driver side release button 90deg because, reasons) and discovered that the way I planned on making the spare mag work won't work at all so, after a bit of back to the drawing board time, I have a new and probably better idea that I'll try to make it work and if that doesn't pan out then at least we'll have a long, flat-bottomed bag rider and maybe a pocket to keep the OEM torque wrench and such in. Have to work on the trigger guard, but I guess not today as hoped for. I got a call-out to put down some livestock for a local this morning and a separate call for a contract gig to do some computer work this afternoon. This CF/FG stuff is pretty expensive to do sculpture like this in (mistakes can mean you start over) and day jobs are very few and far between. So, I have to take whatever gigs I can get to support my epoxy resin habit. On the upside, the factory butt spacer/pad arrangement will work just fine so I can do an adjustable butt as an up-option and retain most of the disassembly procedure intact. Not sure if caliber changes will be supported without at least partially removing the rifle from the stock but I am treating that as a requirement and I don't see anything blocking it working the original way. I added 2 more layers of glass weave to the whole thing so, now it's tough enough to stand on, more impact resistant and resists torsional loads a lot better. The monopod still fits and there are still no screws holding the thing together, it's all a friction + interference fit. The final model will use some screws but not the dozen or so that the OEM stock required and they'll all be the same length because I'm not so sadistic as to make them both numerous and several different lengths.
What do you think... should I mold in a thumb shelf for the trigger hand?
On a down note, I have to completely disassemble the trigger mechanism because I got a drop of resin in there and it's gumming up the works (insert sheepish embarrassed look here). I did learn my lesson though and have been taping off critical bits like trigger mechanism bits much better since I discovered my idiot mistake.
Passenger side.
Driver side.
Again, this is a developmental model meant to get the shape and features figured out, not a production unit or even a prototype as such. It's ugly and the FG is not wonderfully void free on purpose. I got the grip boss started and thought, why not make it long as hell. I have my reasons. I got the mag release roughed in (I rotated the driver side release button 90deg because, reasons) and discovered that the way I planned on making the spare mag work won't work at all so, after a bit of back to the drawing board time, I have a new and probably better idea that I'll try to make it work and if that doesn't pan out then at least we'll have a long, flat-bottomed bag rider and maybe a pocket to keep the OEM torque wrench and such in. Have to work on the trigger guard, but I guess not today as hoped for. I got a call-out to put down some livestock for a local this morning and a separate call for a contract gig to do some computer work this afternoon. This CF/FG stuff is pretty expensive to do sculpture like this in (mistakes can mean you start over) and day jobs are very few and far between. So, I have to take whatever gigs I can get to support my epoxy resin habit. On the upside, the factory butt spacer/pad arrangement will work just fine so I can do an adjustable butt as an up-option and retain most of the disassembly procedure intact. Not sure if caliber changes will be supported without at least partially removing the rifle from the stock but I am treating that as a requirement and I don't see anything blocking it working the original way. I added 2 more layers of glass weave to the whole thing so, now it's tough enough to stand on, more impact resistant and resists torsional loads a lot better. The monopod still fits and there are still no screws holding the thing together, it's all a friction + interference fit. The final model will use some screws but not the dozen or so that the OEM stock required and they'll all be the same length because I'm not so sadistic as to make them both numerous and several different lengths.
What do you think... should I mold in a thumb shelf for the trigger hand?
On a down note, I have to completely disassemble the trigger mechanism because I got a drop of resin in there and it's gumming up the works (insert sheepish embarrassed look here). I did learn my lesson though and have been taping off critical bits like trigger mechanism bits much better since I discovered my idiot mistake.
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can I get one made of bamboo cuz i'm a tree-hugger biodegradable and all that
Giggle. The carbon fiber itself is as biodegraded as anything can get. The binder resin, that's not. I wonder if the bunny fuckers would notice though... I could start making bongs and shit out of bamboo-resin composite and call them "earth bongs" or something stupid. Betcha I'd make a mint. I actually talked to a guy the other day that runs a head shop. He seemed to think that they'd dig CF because hipster stoners are really fucking stupid and they'll buy anything.
What do you guys think of "forged carbon" other than the fact that it's not forged?
I dig it. Number 1, make it so. Can anyone tell me what the thread pitch and screw length is for the MDT thumb rest dealie?
Also, pic update. AR-15 grip boss had to be completely redone but it's perfect now.
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Looks like it wants an M-LOK slot. That actually tells me all I need to know. M-LOK is a known standard.
Minor update. I got the mag release working. Building the little wall for the spring to buck up against was a bit of an exercise in problem solving. The depth has to be right, the screw hole has to be in the right spot in 3 dimensions, the angle of the dangle has to be right. Little things are a big challenge. The bag rider is nearing completion. The grip boss ended up having to be reworked. Hopefully I'll finish that today. I had to disassemble the trigger transfer bar to get some epoxy off of it. The big stuff is simple, the detail work is a real PITA but iteration seems to be the ticket to solutions.
The training continues… 77gr Hornady Black in a SAC .223, Area 419 Brake. Heck of a ruckus on such a small round, but the recoil is so tame.
Coke Cans at 250yds are no match.
If you are looking for a good magazine pouch for Desert Tech I have found one that fits one or two magazines securely with or without the top flap. The top flap is removable if you want to run open top and width or tightness is adjustable so it can be friction fit for one or two magazines.
www.highspeedgear.com
One mag
Two mags
LR-XL TACO
The LR-XL TACO® magazine pouch was developed to hold NSGW magazines. Not only is the LR-XL TACO equipped with adjustable retention but it also features a cover which is secured with a silent closure system. The cover can also be removed for open-top use. This TACO is MOLLE mounted, features...
www.highspeedgear.com
One mag
Two mags
Attachments
Lots of things came together today. I’d been having some problems which were causing me to doubt my own greatness(
). However, after having my Marty McFly “I have a Time Machine!” moment I overcame the problems that had been plaguing me. Then, feeling my Wheaties, I went one better and solved another problem ditching much of the OEM magazine release hardware, redoing some of it and adapting the rest and came away with a more manufacturable, easier to assemble, stronger and quieter design. Next I looked at the mag well and figured out how to improve on it other than eliminating the wobblin from that goblin. I trimmed off a good bit of weight and worked on the exterior's appearance, blended surfaces and dehorned things. Lowering the grip boss gave me the 5mm I needed to avoid having to use non-commodity fastener HW and added a lot of strength in that area. Now it needs an Italian to wave a little wand over it to make it sexy enough to startle Antonio Banderas into buttoning up his shirt and canceling his, how do you say, ah yes, show. Lacking any convenient Italians I guess I’ll spend some time with pencil and paper. A bunch of cheek rests I was working on got ruined by some freakishly cold weather so I had to start over with them. I decided to make a mold instead of a form for that which should provide more consistent results and cut production time by 90%.
). However, after having my Marty McFly “I have a Time Machine!” moment I overcame the problems that had been plaguing me. Then, feeling my Wheaties, I went one better and solved another problem ditching much of the OEM magazine release hardware, redoing some of it and adapting the rest and came away with a more manufacturable, easier to assemble, stronger and quieter design. Next I looked at the mag well and figured out how to improve on it other than eliminating the wobblin from that goblin. I trimmed off a good bit of weight and worked on the exterior's appearance, blended surfaces and dehorned things. Lowering the grip boss gave me the 5mm I needed to avoid having to use non-commodity fastener HW and added a lot of strength in that area. Now it needs an Italian to wave a little wand over it to make it sexy enough to startle Antonio Banderas into buttoning up his shirt and canceling his, how do you say, ah yes, show. Lacking any convenient Italians I guess I’ll spend some time with pencil and paper. A bunch of cheek rests I was working on got ruined by some freakishly cold weather so I had to start over with them. I decided to make a mold instead of a form for that which should provide more consistent results and cut production time by 90%.Anyone have a source for the monopod plug? Can't find any online even DTA except for "air soft". Picked up another used chassis and it has the monopod. I don't care for the monopod so I will be removing it to drop a few ounces.
You just want a plug for the hole? I can cast/cut something like a rigid grommet easy as pie from plain epoxy, fiberglass reinforced epoxy, carbon fiber, forged carbon, Delrin, or kydex. I suppose I could make a screw-in plug that uses the upper part of the monopod body too. Then it wouldn’t extend but could still serve as a sort of sacrificial ground contact surface. I’ll try to whip up an example while I’m waiting for the epoxy to cure on today’s run of CF parts.
Edit: I happened to have on hand a silicone mold of the inside of the factory SRS butt stock. Since it’s such a small part and won’t need a lot of finish work it’s not a problem to spend 5 minutes on. I dropped the piece into a mold form with some resin to create the first half of a 2-piece mold. After a couple hours it’ll be hardened enough to flip it over and make the other half. Then I can drill the vents and sprue and start casting. This is a plug, nothing more, no foot and it should be a flush fit. Weight will depend upon the material selection. I think forged carbon would be best for weight reduction.
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Yes just a plug. I am no fan of the monopod and picked up a used A1 that has one. No need for the weight of something I'll never use. Anybody need a monopod for cheap?
I use the Tab Biathalon sling and another of their PRS slings. All work great.https://www.tabgear.com/products/biathlon-sling
Catastrophe! My fiberglass model got broken. I made a stupid mistake when making a mold and destroyed it. I had lost sight of the goal though, which was to come up with the basic design and find all of the places that were going to bite me in the ass. So, it was a good thing to have happen. Now I can redouble my efforts while actually approaching the goal. I’m transitioning to making a mold for cranking out beta copies. I’m also finishing up the orders for cheek risers. Those will be my priority today since the weather has warmed up enough to get them done.
I make these for just such use cases. Carbon fiber, top shelf epoxy. I'm finishing up a batch now. If the weather would stay consistent for 2 days it would be easier. They weigh a bit less than OEM and are insanely strong. PM for details.
All kinds of developments on the CF stocks. I've got the core form replication tooling finished, the exterior surface mold is being laid up as I type and the major design elements are pretty well settled. I've made a ton of changes from the factory stock that make it a lot easier to live with. We'll know in about a week if I can do the AI pattern magazines (I finally broke down and ordered an AI 338LM CIP mag, waiting on delivery). The layup of the carbon fiber planks was slow going... a single plank of CF as thick as a DT stock generates a ton of heat and we couldn't just sit around monitoring temperature and adding layers by hand so we had to create a way to make that workable. Hopefully I'll send the first set to the machine shop to be cut in a week or two. The spare mag well is in but it's only going to support 5rd DT mags and, if the AICS mags work, 10rd AICS .308 mags. Not sure about the AI 338LM mags but those might work. We'll have to see. I didn't want to increase the length of pull more than I have so the spare mag deletes the monopod and is set bullet nose up. What are your thoughts on deleting the monopod? Is that a no-go for anyone? Along with the DT stocks I'm hoping to launch new stock designs for many of the popular OTC bolt actions soon. I'm developing 3 different options for different use cases. Anyone want to loan me their HTI stock so I can create forms/molds from it? I'd need it for about a week.
For those with pending orders for risers, they should ship end of week. Weather has not been playing nice but I finally got a good set.
For those with pending orders for risers, they should ship end of week. Weather has not been playing nice but I finally got a good set.
A better bag riding stock would be much better than the monopod for me.
Are you referring to the cheek riser?I make these for just such use cases. Carbon fiber, top shelf epoxy. I'm finishing up a batch now. If the weather would stay consistent for 2 days it would be easier. They weigh a bit less than OEM and are insanely strong. PM for details.
If so, I ordered the heavy (24oz I think it was) CF one from you on November 15th for my HTI.
Awesome! I'm looking for a taller 35mm scope mount as well to work in unison with your riser. My mount is 1.5" high, I think a 1.7" to 1.9" high mount would work great. Having trouble finding that height for 35mm though.
Nice engineeering....way more rider than I would want or use. Got my wheels spinning though. I can make my own. Just a simple bar or flat stock that is flush with the bottom of the stock with the same type post mount. Nice the way it's done using the threaded mount into the monopod slot.
Why not just throw a sticky foam cheek pad
Caparison Cheek Piece Pads
Increase the comfort of your setup with an Anarchy Outdoors cheek pad. This stick-on foam cheek piece adds style and a cushion between the shooter and the gun.
www.anarchyoutdoors.com
The scope needs to mount higher where Im not laying my head sideways on the cheek piece. If I raise my head/cheek piece, I'm above my scope.Why not just throw a sticky foam cheek pad
They're 1/8in thickCaparison Cheek Piece Pads
Increase the comfort of your setup with an Anarchy Outdoors cheek pad. This stick-on foam cheek piece adds style and a cushion between the shooter and the gun.
3060yds yesterday...
S&B 5-45 ( HTI 375CT 390gr A-tip) and DNT Optics ( SRS 338 lap 300gr A-tip) ...
338lap with 300gr A-tips did VERY well...
S&B 5-45 ( HTI 375CT 390gr A-tip) and DNT Optics ( SRS 338 lap 300gr A-tip) ...
338lap with 300gr A-tips did VERY well...
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This is the problem with any stock that has a wide cheek piece. I usually stay clear of stocks/chassis that have them. Can’t do that with these rifles so I just cant the rifle a bit and level the scope to gravity. It solves the problem without resorting to higher mounts and a chin weld.
I’m 80% sure he’s using some stack on external gun rests. Great idea!
