Fully broken in now. It’s an absolute menace.
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Horse Power, Track Shit, Torque, Cubic Inches, Liters, Run What Ya Brung, Auto or Cycle
- Thread starter DarnYankeeUSMC
- Start date
Fully broken in now. It’s an absolute menace.
There was one of these at a track day I attended. He and I were in the same group. Holy balls.
Killer car.
Not nearly as cool or as fast as a lot on here but I also do a 480 mile commute three times a month sun, rain or snow. Tuned turbo cars are pretty quick.
Still wishing that we had my Dad’s ‘67 Camaro. It was all stock except for the sound system. Something about my turning 15 was his impetus to sell. 
So I started with a ‘66 International Scout which has brought me here. Not purty, but I love driving the hell out of it.
351W (5.8L), E4OD, 4.11 gears, Warne Manual Hubs, Borg Warner 13-56 T-Case, 6” Lift and 35”x12.5”x15” tires. She cruised nicely at 70 on the freeway and gets me wherever I want to go off pavement.
So I started with a ‘66 International Scout which has brought me here. Not purty, but I love driving the hell out of it.
351W (5.8L), E4OD, 4.11 gears, Warne Manual Hubs, Borg Warner 13-56 T-Case, 6” Lift and 35”x12.5”x15” tires. She cruised nicely at 70 on the freeway and gets me wherever I want to go off pavement.
It puts a big shit-eating grin on my face every time I start it up. Did a drive on some country back roads today, I don’t think I went below 80 the whole time and the car wasn’t even breaking a sweat. Above 7000 RPM it feels like you are being launched off an aircraft carrier lol.
Not the best quality pics but you get the idea. Basically everything is black alcantara, yellow stitching, or carbon fiber.
If it puts a smile on your face when you drive that's all that matters.
When asked what machine he'd put the last tank of gas on earth in, Christian von Koenigsegg said he'd be in a Miata. Gordon Murray said a Lotus Elan. Both guys have access to some of the fastest cars on earth and they'd be happiest in fun cars barely making triple digit horsepower.
What’s wrong with it?
Engine oil leak, the old seal is on the lower shelf. Can’t prove it a 100% yet but mostly an engineering / design issue. It’s the oil pan seal. I think the grove is to deep because the seal is an updated version already. 2024 model with 2k miles on it. The next one, a GT4 RS with 1k miles also a 2024 is already waiting having the same leak.
Things can go wrong anywhere but on these cars with the extreme high price, development done in the Supercup… pretty embarrassing.
Not more the company I use to know and was proud of to be working for.
high beam, clutch, brake, gas, starter
Porsche doesn’t really bother to repair new engines. My buddy has a 2023 GT4RS that is burning way too much oil and they are just replacing the entire engine under warranty next month. $113,000 estimate if it wasn’t a warranty fix.
How big of a leak is it?
I always thought it was crazy how pretty obvious faults like this made it into production. I have a really hard time believing stuff like that was totally fine allll the way through pre-production testing then magically popped up as soon as people started taking delivery of cars
Lab testing brings results that differ from what real world end users will do to the product.
Then take into consideration that the test models were only a couple models and standards were strictly adhered to. Now order 5,000 oil pans and a variant of a few thousands is acceptable and you will have some that leak.
T,
How many spare bolts did you have after getting it back together?
The lower engine areas completely covered and about half of a quart sitting on top of the diffuser.
The issue I have with this is that the same engine is used and supposedly proven in the German Carrera and Supercup, about 50-60 vehicles?
Makes me think that they surely have known about this and decided to send the questionable units over the pond.
Not together yet, waiting for some more o-rings. Will be a bad week for me, the whole job pays about 12h and takes me almost 3 days.T,
How many spare bolts did you have after getting it back together?
Greedy bastards everywhere.
Oil filter change?
12hrs if you have all the correct parts and can work uninterrupted…
My only dealership experience was with Mercedes so I have no idea about other manufacturers but I understand the production tolerances can be enough to cause problems in stuff. I’m more talking about bulletins coming out on pretty new vehicles that have a description of the problem, its exact cause, and usually a VIN or manufacturing date breakdown. I don’t know, like what @Schütze said. It’s frustrating working on this shit
About a quart every 400mi for my buddy. Enough for Porsche to ship him an $85,000 crate motor.
In what vehicle? I can’t keep all the avatars straight with their cars
My first truck was a 67 chevy that my dad and I rebuilt when I was 15. Truck was so much fun! I think first gear was for pulling a house out the mud!
I remember a bad snow storm where the wipers stopped working. Blizzard conditions in the CO Rockies. My younger brother and I took off our shoe laces and fed them through the smokers window or whatever those are called. He pulled, I pulled, he pulled, I pulled for 20 miles!
Someone with I believe a single turbo 3.6 is going to a twin turbo and moving it to the rear. I didn't know about the H swap until recently and it looks interesting but quite expensive.
And now I can sleep better knowing Porsche decided I shouldn’t buy one. I was looking at a much lesser model…..instead I bought a Camaro - which are also known for burning through engines…..
Kidding, of course. It doesn’t seem like any cars are actually built well, anymore.
Took my 12 taco to the dealer to get them to fix steering wheel to rack alignment after I changed it out and got the spline a tooth off. Did both front drive shafts at the same time. Did all that work beginning of summer.
When they went in, the master tech noticed there was a coolant leak near intake area. They diagnosed it as leaking head gasket on bank 1 leaking coolant to the outside of the engine. Only leaks when the engine is hot. I've decided replacing the head gasket I am not going to attempt myself. Dealer charge is $4100 for 16 hours. Going to wait at least a few months for that. 155k miles. 1gr-fe 4.0 engine.
When they went in, the master tech noticed there was a coolant leak near intake area. They diagnosed it as leaking head gasket on bank 1 leaking coolant to the outside of the engine. Only leaks when the engine is hot. I've decided replacing the head gasket I am not going to attempt myself. Dealer charge is $4100 for 16 hours. Going to wait at least a few months for that. 155k miles. 1gr-fe 4.0 engine.
Big power is usually big expensive. If this is a daily driver just rebuild the engine with some upgraded pistons/rods and a bit bigger turbo then run it on e85.
That's what I'm leaning towards but with the new 2.4 motor. It's looking like the hassle and price are within my budget.
Asian cars aren’t really my thing but that sounds like a fun daily driver
I was just in my Dad's 70 Chevelle the other day, and the thing that stuck out the most to me, that I never noticed before, was how weird it was that they gave the clock almost center stage on the dash. They really couldn't think of another important reading to occupy the big gauge hole?
3rd favorite: I was able to test drive a '09 S2K w/ the 2.2L... MAN I FELL IN LOVE! But then again I was 16, and just ... The way it handled bro.. literally sooo easy to...what's the words I'm looking for?? So easy to get it to take the exact line you want to thru a corner/turn. And so easily/naturally drifts!! Just such a fun car to drive! So yea, my dream car(that'd actually be almost within my budget) would be a S2K w/ say . A Garrett GT35R turbo... OR a S2K rolling chassis w/ a LS3 + your basic heads/cam/intake/exhaust. And then the widest best tires I could possibly fit ...and maybe some suspension, sway bars, etc upgrades along w/ possibly a little half roll cage obviously for safety but also to help stiffen up the chassis a bit more...
Far as production street cars(err ... Slightly modded) my 2nd favorite was 2016(?) I believe?? Mustang GT 5.0 6-sp manual w/ a TVS2300 blower. Boyyy that was incredibly fun!!!
#1 baddest street legal//production car I've gotten to drive BY FAR was Ferrari F430! This Asian gentleman in my hometown(Soperton GA), owns a large chain of nail salons that his wife helps him run.. and he has a F430(or did at that time at least back in around 2014 or something around that timeframe).
The convertible top has stopped working... So me and my pap took on the job, and got it fixed.
And as a reward he let me take it for most fun amazing 20 minutes ride of my life around the the Twisties near the house and then for a quick little peddle-to-floor blast down the interstate from our exit to the next one up
. ... Literally a oversized overpowered shifter/racing kart... I was amazed at how fast you could hit quite sharp turns in that 430. What a machine... And everything about the construction screamed "race car"! Literally everything was very easy to get to and change out/replace parts ..
Far as production street cars(err ... Slightly modded) my 2nd favorite was 2016(?) I believe?? Mustang GT 5.0 6-sp manual w/ a TVS2300 blower. Boyyy that was incredibly fun!!!
#1 baddest street legal//production car I've gotten to drive BY FAR was Ferrari F430! This Asian gentleman in my hometown(Soperton GA), owns a large chain of nail salons that his wife helps him run.. and he has a F430(or did at that time at least back in around 2014 or something around that timeframe).
The convertible top has stopped working... So me and my pap took on the job, and got it fixed.
And as a reward he let me take it for most fun amazing 20 minutes ride of my life around the the Twisties near the house and then for a quick little peddle-to-floor blast down the interstate from our exit to the next one up
. ... Literally a oversized overpowered shifter/racing kart... I was amazed at how fast you could hit quite sharp turns in that 430. What a machine... And everything about the construction screamed "race car"! Literally everything was very easy to get to and change out/replace parts ..
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I want another Mercedes so bad and am intrigued by this model as of late. Last generation of the CLS-class, the C257 chassis AMG CLS 53. Turbocharged 3.0l straight 6, mild hybrid, 9 speed auto, and more electronic modes than you can shake a stick at. And the most important part, it has heated seats
Merc released a new I6 in ‘17 instead of another bent 6
Mild hybrid motor between engine & transmission
Merc released a new I6 in ‘17 instead of another bent 6
Mild hybrid motor between engine & transmission
Been busy and missed episode 39 of Project Binky when it dropped last month… These guys are nuts!
This is how the GT4RS feels, it’s completely addictive. The thing is so small and all the weight is in the center so it darts into corners and rotates very easily, but when you put your foot down it is borderline frightening how fast you are past “big speeding ticket” territory and into “arrested and car impounded.” One of my work friends has a F430 Spider and it’s a beautiful thing.
I've been in the process of building this aluminum 8.8 IRS from an 99-04 Cobra for my Miata track car for when I eventually do the LS swap.
Been fucking with setting gears in it the past week and what a damn frustration thats been. I ordered a tool from a company called Ratech that supposedly measures how much pinion shim you need... what a piece of shit... doesnt work at all. So far off its not even funny. I ended up using a piece of drill rod in the bearing saddle to get a measurement which patterned out well...
I couldnt get a good drive side pattern no matter what I did. Fucked with it for HOURS and as anybody who has done gear work with a shim under the pinion bearing you have to take EVERYTHING apart and press the fucking bearing back off, change shims, press it all back together, re-assemble the diff, reset backlash, etc... holy shit. Started with an 026 shim based on the garbage tool from ratech... no drive and coast was at the heal. Went to a 040 shim based on my other measurement: perfect coast, no drive to speak of... WTF... went back to a 030 and got a toe side drive and heal side coast...wtf... 035 the drive started to disappear but the coast was better... went to a 050 pinion and the drive was still almost non existent and coast was at the toe... well that aint right... WTF... I was chasing my tail and my buddy who knows his shit couldnt figure out what was going on either... we were thinking the gears were possibly a bad set of gears that wouldnt setup(he has seen it before). I put a question out on a different forum to get some other brains on it. These are used gears(75-100 claimed miles and they looked it). One guy says dont setup used gears by the drive pattern, you wont ever get one, just set based on coast side... And a few other sources(Yukon Gear) agreed... FUCK ME... back to the 040 pinion, setup backlash... done... What a beating...
Aluminum IRS 8.8
3.31 gears
Ford Trac-Lock limited slip
ARP Ford 9" carrier studs
Strange HD billet 1350 yoke
Ford Performance rear cover with load bolts
-I got little mini studs for the cover also LOL
Getting custom CV axle shafts made with Driveshaft shop forged stubs, 930 CV's on each side and a custom outer stub from a Miata stub to a 930 CV. Easy rebuilds.
This thing is going to overbuilt for the ~350-400hp I am going to put through it.
Coast side pattern
Wonky ass drive side pattern that kept throwing me off...
Been fucking with setting gears in it the past week and what a damn frustration thats been. I ordered a tool from a company called Ratech that supposedly measures how much pinion shim you need... what a piece of shit... doesnt work at all. So far off its not even funny. I ended up using a piece of drill rod in the bearing saddle to get a measurement which patterned out well...
I couldnt get a good drive side pattern no matter what I did. Fucked with it for HOURS and as anybody who has done gear work with a shim under the pinion bearing you have to take EVERYTHING apart and press the fucking bearing back off, change shims, press it all back together, re-assemble the diff, reset backlash, etc... holy shit. Started with an 026 shim based on the garbage tool from ratech... no drive and coast was at the heal. Went to a 040 shim based on my other measurement: perfect coast, no drive to speak of... WTF... went back to a 030 and got a toe side drive and heal side coast...wtf... 035 the drive started to disappear but the coast was better... went to a 050 pinion and the drive was still almost non existent and coast was at the toe... well that aint right... WTF... I was chasing my tail and my buddy who knows his shit couldnt figure out what was going on either... we were thinking the gears were possibly a bad set of gears that wouldnt setup(he has seen it before). I put a question out on a different forum to get some other brains on it. These are used gears(75-100 claimed miles and they looked it). One guy says dont setup used gears by the drive pattern, you wont ever get one, just set based on coast side... And a few other sources(Yukon Gear) agreed... FUCK ME... back to the 040 pinion, setup backlash... done... What a beating...
Aluminum IRS 8.8
3.31 gears
Ford Trac-Lock limited slip
ARP Ford 9" carrier studs
Strange HD billet 1350 yoke
Ford Performance rear cover with load bolts
-I got little mini studs for the cover also LOL
Getting custom CV axle shafts made with Driveshaft shop forged stubs, 930 CV's on each side and a custom outer stub from a Miata stub to a 930 CV. Easy rebuilds.
This thing is going to overbuilt for the ~350-400hp I am going to put through it.
Coast side pattern
Wonky ass drive side pattern that kept throwing me off...
If it were mine and dealing with that frustration, I would have taken it to the local Ford dealer and had them measure the depth with their tool. It's foolproof. I just rebuilt a differential in a 2007 Shelby GT500 and got the measurement perfect the first time with their tools.
The frustration wasnt a measurement issue it was a "I have no drive side pattern" frustration and no measurement would solve that. It wasnt until we learned that on used gears you cant pattern off the drive that things made sense why we werent getting a pattern. The "measurement" gave me a perfect coast side pattern.
I had a "perfect" measurement without the special tool. I dropped a piece of drill rod into the bearing saddle and measured from the pinion face to the drill rod. You take that measurement + pinion head height + half the bearing diameter. The master housing dimension is 4.420. Subtract your number from 4.420 and that gives you the pinion shim. I think my math said I needed an 041 pinion shim...
This is the tool from Ratech... You put it on the pinion head and use a caliper and measure through the hole, do some other math and you are supposed to get the pinion shim thickness... That gave me the 026 shim measurement. My gears were used and still had a pinion bearing and shims on it... Guess what thickness of shims they were??? 026... 8.8's are universally supposed to take 024-032 shims. My buddy who was guiding me via text said "well getting that measurement plus already having those on there, thats called a clue"...
Well the low tech measurement with the drill rod is what was correct. The Ford tool simply makes that measurement a little easier to get, but its the same measurement basically. If I remember how the Ford tool works, it measures from the bottom of the outer bearing race in the case to the center of the carrier bearing, you subtract that number from 4.420 and thats your pinion shim... or at least your starting pinion shim.
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