MullerWorks Barrel Run out

David Lott

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  • Aug 23, 2012
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    Brenham Tx
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    I recorded this video after chambering another big name barrel in the premium barrel world that had quite a bit of run out. To be fair the other barrel shot exceptionally well and on par with what we have come to expect. The run out does not make a difference in how it shoots but makes my life easier when indicating a barrel in. Please forgive my attempt at humor in the video description.

     
    I recorded this video after chambering another big name barrel in the premium barrel world that had quite a bit of run out. To be fair the other barrel shot exceptionally well and on par with what we have come to expect. The run out does not make a difference in how it shoots but makes my life easier when indicating a barrel in. Please forgive my attempt at humor in the video description.


    David,

    Thank you for your video. I'm guessing you dialed in the bore first. Right?

    Then you expected the outside of the barrel to also be dialed in? Hoping the bore would be right in the center of the barrel.

    Next question. Now you know that isn't the case will you cut the outside of the barrel, so it is centered for at least the length of the chamber?

    and still another question please. Will you do the same thing at the crown end of the barrel?

    The reason for my questions is I've seen it done many ways. I'm hoping to learn your way.

    TKH
     
    David,

    Thank you for your video. I'm guessing you dialed in the bore first. Right?

    Then you expected the outside of the barrel to also be dialed in? Hoping the bore would be right in the center of the barrel.

    Next question. Now you know that isn't the case will you cut the outside of the barrel, so it is centered for at least the length of the chamber?

    and still another question please. Will you do the same thing at the crown end of the barrel?

    The reason for my questions is I've seen it done many ways. I'm hoping to learn your way.

    TKH
    I use a round 0.001 on the outside to get me within a few thousands then go to the rangerod internally. It works for me,
    1000010106.jpg
     
    Forgot to answer your 2 other questions, The outside will match the inside after it is cut. The crown is done the same way. If I think about it I'll video the next one after I cut the tenon

    How would they match if they aren’t aligned to begin with? If you cut the chamber based on the bore alignment then the outside will be misaligned (not saying that’s a problem). Unless you’re referring to the threads/tenon?
     
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    How would they match if they aren’t aligned to begin with? If you cut the chamber based on the bore alignment then the outside will be misaligned (not saying that’s a problem). Unless you’re referring to the threads/tenon?
    In the video above the difference is 0.0050 the thickness of a human hair. You will not see that with the naked eye.
    This video is of a barrel that is out quite a bit yet tenon is true to bore.



     
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    I understand run out coming from t/d world. but do you recut the jaws after you remove them, also I see the spider is lined up with the dot on the jaw face but how exact is it to the bore centerline? Not bad mouthing,but you can and do get stack up tolerances when things are not dialed in individually. i also realize that with the bore not in centerline of the od you can have a stress imparted there. that is why when you machine for a flat surface for dimension you try and machine both sides equally for this reason.Stan
     
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    I understand run out coming from t/d world. but do you recut the jaws after you remove them, also I see the spider is lined up with the dot on the jaw face but how exact is it to the bore centerline? Not bad mouthing,but you can and do get stack up tolerances when things are not dialed in individually. i also realize that with the bore not in centerline of the od you can have a stress imparted there. that is why when you machine for a flat surface for dimension you try and machine both sides equally for this reason.Stan
    I install the truing fixture in the same spot each time to cut down on the time I spend to indicate it in. Think of a 4 jaw chuck and a spider at the rear of a conventional lathe. The truing fixture I slide the barrel in is the 4 Jaw and spider in one. The indicator is attached to the turret and indicated true to the turret. I use a rigid carbide reamer, if it were not perfectly aligned it would snap it off, if it were slightly off enough not to snap, it would cut the rifling off center and you would clearly see and accuracy would suffer. This is not the conventional way to do it it but it works great as I can cut the tenon/chamber and extractor slots in one process and also use the machine to make parts all night long.
    1000010129.jpg