Rust question.

Maggot

Maggot

"For we wrestle not against flesh and blood"
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Minuteman
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    • Jul 27, 2007
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    Virginia
    #1
    Not about Alec Balwin, he skated. :(

    I have 2 of the Remington 700 jeweled bolt stainless actions (both now proudly sporting PVA barrels. I noticed on the rear of one some very light, what I would call 'browning, or pre rust', like a very light discoloration to the finish. I'm wondering if there is a cure for that. Since @bohem is the metal man, perhaps he could chirp in. Mine is like the one below but not nearly as bad, just a small dime sized spot that you wouldnt notice if you werent looking. I was considering buying the one below but this has me a bit concerned. Is there a way to clean it up.

    1734626543914.png
     
    #2
    Are you looking at the bolt shroud where the cocking piece sits? I don't think those were SS even on the Stainless actions.

    They were just regular parts painted silver AFAIK. The easy thing that I can think of is to just cerakote it and you won't have any issues.
     
    #3
    10,000 ways. Lasers, scotch brite pads, sandpaper, dremel tool with felt head and polish, complex, simple, everywhere in between.

    On and on and on and on.

    Then, a light coat of oil, grease, lard, on and on and on and on, whatever, you want to use, to protect it. Including paint, clear coat, cerakote, dipping and so on.

    Then of course, you can manage the moisture in the area in which you store these to help prevent it, and there are 10,000 more ways to do this.

    I'd hit it with my Dremel, then a tiny bit of battle born grease, which I like to use for about everything now. Scotch brite pad and the same, an oil or grease, would do well too and be cheaper.

    I also still like hitting my guns with hornady one shot and wiping them down for a protectant. I find G96 and EEZOX are great too.

    A ton of ways to skin this cat.
     
    #4
    CRC Evapo-Rust is great stuff for treating rust. I've used it for motorcycle gas tanks and other odds and ends. Protect with WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. Cerakote for minimal care.
     
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    #5
    calling4life said:
    10,000 ways. Lasers, scotch brite pads, sandpaper, dremel tool with felt head and polish, complex, simple, everywhere in between.

    On and on and on and on.

    Then, a light coat of oil, grease, lard, on and on and on and on, whatever, you want to use, to protect it. Including paint, clear coat, cerakote, dipping and so on.

    Then of course, you can manage the moisture in the area in which you store these to help prevent it, and there are 10,000 more ways to do this.

    I'd hit it with my Dremel, then a tiny bit of battle born grease, which I like to use for about everything now. Scotch brite pad and the same, an oil or grease, would do well too and be cheaper.

    I also still like hitting my guns with hornady one shot and wiping them down for a protectant. I find G96 and EEZOX are great too.

    A ton of ways to skin this cat.
    Click to expand...
    BLEE said:
    CRC Evapo-Rust is great stuff for treating rust. I've used it for motorcycle gas tanks and other odds and ends. Protect with WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. Cerakote for minimal care.
    Click to expand...
    Thats what I needed, Thanks. Better to ask and get it right the first time. Decided against that rifle and PTLord, up came an unfired nicer on here in Oklahoma I can do FTF, and at a better final price. 7MM RUM, looking to rebarrel it to a 7PRC when funds allow.

    1734712613677.png
     
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    #6
    bohem said:
    Are you looking at the bolt shroud where the cocking piece sits? I don't think those were SS even on the Stainless actions.

    They were just regular parts painted silver AFAIK. The easy thing that I can think of is to just cerakote it and you won't have any issues.
    Click to expand...
    So jsut the bolt was stainless, because that clearly is.
     
    #8
    bohem said:
    The bolt body and action body are SS, but I don't think any of the smaller parts in the bolt assembly like the cocking piece, shroud, etc are SS. I've seen all of those parts rust when the bolt and action were fine.
    Click to expand...
    What is between the barrel on the rifle above and the M24 I got on my other rifles from you?
     
    #10
    spife7980 said:
    Why not just post pics of your issue instead?

    What is between? The barrel and the action? You mean the recoil lug?
    Click to expand...
    My bad, that was clear as mud.

    I was asking about different barrel contours. I have a 26" M24 and it's like carrying a telephone pole around. I know there are lighter contours, just dont see a diagram anywhere.
     
    #12
    JerkyFreak said:
    Just because an action or barrel is stainless steel, does not mean it won't rust.

    Not all stainless steels are created equal.
    Click to expand...
    Yep.

    There are some fancy-ass stainless steels for knife-making that apparently resist even extended and repeated saltwater immersion. Spyderco H1 & H2 come to mind, as does LC200N. Edit: also Magnacut and Vanax.

    Something tells me those steels would suck for rifles. But I’m no engineer.
     
    Last edited:
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    #13
    carbonbased said:
    Yep.

    There are some fancy-ass stainless steels for knife-making that apparently resist even extended and repeated saltwater immersion. Spyderco H1 & H2 come to mind, as does LC200N. Edit: also Magnacut and Vanax.

    Something tells me those steels would suck for rifles. But I’m no engineer.
    Click to expand...
    LOL, Couldnt find my dive knife so I substituted my Buck. Cleaned and dried it but it was still ruined by the saltwater. :(
     
    • Haha
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