glue dowel pins in the holes and sand it down then refinish it might even look nice at least powder won't befalling through them.
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Building the Perfect Reloading Room
- Thread starter sirhrmechanic
- Start date
All of this fuss regarding powder in tracks or holes and such...
I must do things differently because there is very rarely any powder that is not in the can, in the charge dispenser or in a case. Other than the times I have dropped a filled case, there isn't any on the bench.
The other thing I do is clean up the area after I finish for that day. I put the tools away. The powder I didn't use gets poured back into the jug it came from and that goes back into the cabinet for powder...on the shelf with the rest of the powder of that type. Primers back in the cabinet with the remainder of the primers. I wipe down the work surfaces and sweep and use the sucker and empty the trash can.
I must do things differently because there is very rarely any powder that is not in the can, in the charge dispenser or in a case. Other than the times I have dropped a filled case, there isn't any on the bench.
The other thing I do is clean up the area after I finish for that day. I put the tools away. The powder I didn't use gets poured back into the jug it came from and that goes back into the cabinet for powder...on the shelf with the rest of the powder of that type. Primers back in the cabinet with the remainder of the primers. I wipe down the work surfaces and sweep and use the sucker and empty the trash can.
Your wife must be very proud of you. I think we should all e doing adequate housekeeping especially when it comes to powder
I do this, but I will add that it really clicked when I realized that 'sweeping the floor' is a 'before work' item. Way less time spent looking for small parts (looking at you, spring detents) that try to escape to the floor. I got that wisdom from a Mark Novak video.
Can't you clean up spilled powder with a propane torch?
Also, see my avatar.
Also, see my avatar.
the holes are for the 2 550's, various single stage presses, vise and case trimmer that i still use.
Well, if you want no holes in the bench, mount the reloading press or vise or whatever on steel plates.
Put the steel plate (with the whatever attached) on the bench’s right front corner.
Use strong F-clamps (like Bessey) to hold it onto the bench. Their steel-worker clamps are super super tough. The rear clamp would have to be a deep-throat clamp, maybe like this:
Other ideas here:
Otherwise the euro vise makers have these nifty vise holders that go up and down, plus they usually have a pivot & slide under model.
In action:
Instead of a vise, mount a quick change plate.
If you don’t mind some holes permanently filled with clamps, then try this:
That site has a million different clamps. They also feature the US brand Benchcrafted, which you might want to check out.
For example, you might use a tail vise to clamp your reloading press that is affixed to a steel or wood plate.
Lee Valley might have something.
Put the steel plate (with the whatever attached) on the bench’s right front corner.
Use strong F-clamps (like Bessey) to hold it onto the bench. Their steel-worker clamps are super super tough. The rear clamp would have to be a deep-throat clamp, maybe like this:
Other ideas here:
Otherwise the euro vise makers have these nifty vise holders that go up and down, plus they usually have a pivot & slide under model.
In action:
Instead of a vise, mount a quick change plate.
If you don’t mind some holes permanently filled with clamps, then try this:
That site has a million different clamps. They also feature the US brand Benchcrafted, which you might want to check out.
For example, you might use a tail vise to clamp your reloading press that is affixed to a steel or wood plate.
Lee Valley might have something.
Meh... stop being a pussy. Get a set of these, drill a couple 1" holes a little way back from the edge and you'll be fine 
Might need a thicker bench top, though
Might need a thicker bench top, though
I have some of those! Love ‘em.Meh... stop being a pussy. Get a set of these, drill a couple 1" holes a little way back from the edge and you'll be fine
Might need a thicker bench top, though
I have the earlier ones he suggested buying, years ago. Chris is one of the most honest and most awesome woodworking writers ever.
I didn’t dare suggest those (awesome) caveman tools as I thought I would offend delicate sensibilities lol. BAM BAM BAM there it’s fastened! Lol
This is what I'll do next ad to not have holes. Final design may change, but concept is the same especially for heavy work and presses.
I mainly suggested it because I still have a lot of my smaller presses (RCBS Partner, Lee APP, etc.) mounted to boards. For a long time, I just used big-a$$ c-clamps whenever I needed to attach any press, anywhere. But recently, I was needing to use the APP, didn't have a plate for my Inline Fabrication stand, and figured 'fuck it' and put it on the edge of my "woodworking" bench (more of a utility bench with a row of dog holes bored in the top, about 3" in from the edge and inline with the stretcher underneath, giving them about 4" of SPF 2x to bite into. I've got a couple LN ones, and two or three Gramercy's that I picked up used.
I always worry about t-track pulling out... most of the ones I've seen/used for things like router tables or table saw jigs have pretty dinky little screws. Yeah, there are a bunch of them, but still. I've considered epoxying them in place, but that seems... more permanent than I want, for some reason. As opposed to a row of big a$$ dog holes
Here is my humble addition. Moved into the house a few year ago and finally got around to a proper setup. I've added some more wall art since these pics but haven't taken any new pics.
Super nice clean setup
Is this a kit or did you build (or contactor) this? Or any more details would be greatly appreciated
If any of you use the RCBS bench primer, how do you mount it? Would you do it differently now that you have used it for a while?
I've used the RCBS bench primer for nearly 10 years now. I set up my benches with the Inline Fabrication quick change system. I have their flush mount, top mount and riser bases. They aren't cheap, but very high quality. Here's a link to their website.
Inline Fabrication
Inline Fabrication
I get it. I do.I mainly suggested it because I still have a lot of my smaller presses (RCBS Partner, Lee APP, etc.) mounted to boards. For a long time, I just used big-a$$ c-clamps whenever I needed to attach any press, anywhere. But recently, I was needing to use the APP, didn't have a plate for my Inline Fabrication stand, and figured 'fuck it' and put it on the edge of my "woodworking" bench (more of a utility bench with a row of dog holes bored in the top, about 3" in from the edge and inline with the stretcher underneath, giving them about 4" of SPF 2x to bite into. I've got a couple LN ones, and two or three Gramercy's that I picked up used.
I always worry about t-track pulling out... most of the ones I've seen/used for things like router tables or table saw jigs have pretty dinky little screws. Yeah, there are a bunch of them, but still. I've considered epoxying them in place, but that seems... more permanent than I want, for some reason. As opposed to a row of big a$$ dog holes
The holes aren't that permanent but routering a groove is.
I guess it's easy enough to glue in some dowel in a hole and patch that up but it's more difficult to glue in a strip and patch that way.
/sarcasm font/
I use and love the inline fab system. With this I’m able to swap accessories when needed. I use it for 4 presses, a regular vise and a barrel vise.
Another advantage comes to mind, if a shooting buddy uses the same system you could swap accessories with him.
You could also have base mounts at the range, in your trailer or motor home.
Here's a thought:
Attachments
Yeah that’ll work.
Another idea: If you’re using threaded inserts in wood, you could drive the insert deeper and countersink the hole. When nothing is in the hole, screw in a countersink-head screw to fill it.
Maybe someone already suggested this. If so, sorry.
Well my original post in this thread was probably 9 or so years ago when I just had a small table in the closet of the spare bedroom in my apartment in Washington state. Now out of the Army and just bought my 3rd house, it has a 15x12 room off of the shop that is going to pull double duty as an engine assembly (clean) room and gun/ reloading room. Let the work begin. It's pretty beat up right now and just has a temporary bench in it but here is what I'm starting with. The last owner used this room for model trains, first thing I'm doing is painting the walls and that will happen this weekend.
Attachments
I completed my room a couple of years ago since I am in New. York I added some extra security measure I took a 12x12 space in a basement corner so two walls were concrete the other two I lined with diamond plate then I put in a combination lock fire metal door. I have an eight foot bench the only equipment installed on the bench are a Dillon 650 for pistols and an RCBS jr - 60 years old now and still going strong. I prefer than for rifles; since I weigh each charge. I had room for a 50 gun safe the accommodates picking ,a wooden gun cabinet and enough shelving to handle components and finished ammo. The other tools trimmer etc are in a cabinet above the bench. Since the other tools are only used when needed where the presses are used almost daily I didn’t see the need to mount them. I try to keep a maximum of free space. This has worked out very well. A few other things I did was to tie it into the house sprinkler system and a ring camera. The only thing I have yet to do is paint the floor white to find small parts. Lastly for added security I have my three pet Dobermans.So because AJ called me a slacker... because I took last weekend off to go and pick up a live cannon in Cheboygan (no, really...) instead of working on my reloading room.
Here's a couple of pictures of today's progress. Got the pocket door in (decided to make my own 'barn door' not buy some Chinese thing from Home Depot. And insulated about 1/3rd of the ceiling and got my ceiling panels up. Instead of sheetrocking, I'm going with metal roofing. Looks great. Goes up in a snap. No taping, no joint compound, no sanding, no painting. Damn this stuff is GREAT for interior spaces! $22 a sheet 3 x 8 at Home Despot.
I'll have the ceiling in by tomorrow in one of the two rooms and I'll get the wall insulation up on the dividing wall. By the end of next weekend, I'll be starting on planking the walls. Progress... lots of progress!
Love some of the bench pictures above. I'm going to make my own and those are some beautifully built (and rugged-looking) benches!
Cheers,
Sirhr
P.S. Who's the slacker now, "Mister" AJ????
Did I miss anything?
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I forgot to mention the computer mounted from the back shelving the TV I need to correct a typo the safe accommodates pistols. Not picking sorry about that
Thank you for your service! Can't wait to see the progress as you move along. Hoping to steal a few ideas, lol!
Paint the floor White so any thing springs primers standout Try and seal off the bottom of the tables so nothing you loose goes somewhere hard to find.
You know I don’t know what we arr do up tight about these holes every hole I have seen mentioned is for a bolt that holds a vice or press or other tool I have 1 vice and 2 presses mounted with bolts through holes that are the filled with bolts permanently so no more hole right problem solved if you want to secure something like a case trimmer mount it on say a piece of 3/8 plate and clamp that to the table you only need that once in a couple weeks or longer so you can remove and store it anything else?
The end
i'm not ocd about this, just like a clean, smooth and 100% usable work surface.
that's just a "re" anything room
! rebuild, restock, reload and re-do! not 1 thing wrong with that! what's ya working on?edit: i'm way behind on several bbc's
The ones that are currently in there are a 406ci Sb2.2 and a R07.2. At my main shop I have a couple of long bell housing 331/354 hemis and a all aluminum 4.5" bore space small block. Across the hallway from this room is a grinding room to work on cylinder heads and block modifications and then the gun room is the clean room.that's just a "re" anything room
edit: i'm way behind on several bbc's
the project i want to do is a 396 or 402 bore w/ 454 crank then twin turbo it for my hauler p/u. or might just go with the newer 6.6 gas and TT it. i'll need to check the engine specs 1st. i used to drive an '81 crew cab dually w/454, 3.73's and turbo400 that would get 14mpg @ 85mph towing 30k cvw. engine wasn't stock, but not much over w/ ~ 390hp and 450# torque. oval heads w/ quattrojet.
Sounds great I have a similar setup except the gun room has steel and concrete walls and a combination lock steel door!
Never heard that acronym before. It's a 400 small block chevy .030 over, splayed main caps, 3.75 forged canvas cut down to honda rod journal with 6.125" rods and 1.010 compression height pistons with sb2 top end. Built it for my road course nascar cup car.
Edit: forged crank not canvas.
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What are the thoughts of using two sheets of 3/4" plywood, glued together but no legs. Looking at keeping it "floating." Basically securing 2/4s along the wall, screw the bench into it and have a frame of angle iron made that supports underneath.
You can't but like what you are doing but you are overbuilding using steel. You don't need to build a bridge. The weight you need to support is not more than a couple of 100 pounds at max. When I built my table I used 5/4 construction scaffold planks fire proof! then I put two sheets of 3/4 plywood on top of that. And for a top I used 1/4 Masonite. That was 50 years ago and it is stronger now than when I put it together. I used double 2x4 studs to built the legs and interlocked them at the top with a frame that came around the rim of the table. It was assembled with nails. Then I put anchors in the concrete (basement) and tied the table to it.
You could "cantilever " the top but only so far and you'd need to anchor the back side very well and have some supports every 4 ish feet but it could be done. Honestly, I think you'd be better off just getting a butcher block top from somewhere and putting it in on a 2x4 frame and just have say 6 or 8" of the front sticking out past your frame.
Cantilever is what escaped me in the description. Putting the supports on top of the 2x6 studs. Probably a small steel plate for more stability under the press(es).
I'll have to look at the butcher block tops.
Appreciate it.
My bench has a 2x6 perimeter, screwed to the walls with huge screws. 3/4" plywood top. One leg down the center of the front. Don't make the bench a full 4' wide, or it's too deep to reach stuff in the back. I like the depth of mine, but I'm not at home to measure it right now. I have shelves across the back for storage, but it leaves plenty of room in front for a Dillon and lots of work space.
using bamboo for tops has worked for me on 2 benches from lowes/home depot that bare 1.5" thick and 6 and 8' long. just wish there were deeper than 20". don't feel like ripping and gluing back together for depth. making an island would be nice for getting all the way around for a 360* use is my next project.
You can get 26" deep butcher block that works pretty well. It's a good depth for me
Appreciate the feedback. I'm thinking 30" deep. I'm 6'2" with a long reach so it should be perfect. Bottom of the bench will be 42". Figure I can stand if need be at the keyboard with proper form and not mess my wrist up. Also bought a nice rolling stool that fits perfect at that height.
I'll put together some drawings to show then pics afterwards (still several weeks from finishing).
I'll put together some drawings to show then pics afterwards (still several weeks from finishing).
Something you might consider in addition to the weight it can handle is the movement. I went with a free standing table. Even have a toolbox on one side of the top and I still get ammo boxes jiggling when stacked. Next time I will go with a wall secured or mounted setup.
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Thanks. The movement is the main thing I'm thinking about. When resizing cases, especially 300NM size, it tends to move everything. The only items I plan on having on the bench at any given time are the scale, press and eventually annealer and case trimmer.
in 2016 when we built the bike shop, I envisioned it being a bike shop and a reloading shop. The lighting in it is good and being a wood structure, it seems warmer in cool, damp weather.
I have a table, I built for my drill press that I am proudest of. Obviously it is the right height for a drill press but a bit low for loading. Still, a nice looking work table. Very usable with a low seat or stool. I am not using my drill press much anymore, so I plan to move it to my regular work bench. then move the drill press table into an open area of the bike shop. Attach an RCBS tool plate and start moving much of why reloading to that area. Pictures to follow.
Might be time to move some bikes out. got some that I simply will not be using much anymore. My road bikes and time trial bikes are what really matter. The old mountain bikes, not so much. IK do have a couple of downtime bikes that I restored. Might be time for them to be a display at some commercial bike shop. priorities
But my first major restoration, I would hate to see it go.
I have a table, I built for my drill press that I am proudest of. Obviously it is the right height for a drill press but a bit low for loading. Still, a nice looking work table. Very usable with a low seat or stool. I am not using my drill press much anymore, so I plan to move it to my regular work bench. then move the drill press table into an open area of the bike shop. Attach an RCBS tool plate and start moving much of why reloading to that area. Pictures to follow.
Might be time to move some bikes out. got some that I simply will not be using much anymore. My road bikes and time trial bikes are what really matter. The old mountain bikes, not so much. IK do have a couple of downtime bikes that I restored. Might be time for them to be a display at some commercial bike shop. priorities
But my first major restoration, I would hate to see it go.
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