Glass for .22 Squirrels up to 50 Yards?

Why can't you put a bipod on it?

I have a Marlin 60 that came with no front stud, but a Forstner bit, a bench grinder, and an Uncle Mike's stud fixed that up.

I already have a short gun on the way, so that's where I'm at for now. I ordered a 0-MOA rail.

Those squirrels could swallow my squirrels whole. They're not worth skinning here.
 
I have not picked up my Tikka rifle that I set up for squirrel rifle ever since I bought a Winchester Lowwall in 22lr that has a Vortex Razor HD 3-15x scope on it. This scope beats the the Luepold 3-9x I have on my Ruger 77/22 boat paddle hands down as there's no comparison and I do love my luepolds!
 
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Why can't you put a bipod on it?

I have a Marlin 60 that came with no front stud, but a Forstner bit, a bench grinder, and an Uncle Mike's stud fixed that up.

I already have a short gun on the way, so that's where I'm at for now. I ordered a 0-MOA rail.

Those squirrels could swallow my squirrels whole. They're not worth skinning here.
I hate bipods on a hunting rifle as they just get in your way and add more useless weight but use shooting sticks that works great steading your rifle with long shots.
 
Why can't you put a bipod on it?
The boat paddle stock on the 77/22 is hollow. I did install one....but it caused fliers horribly.

The barrel is completely non free floated. But that hasn't hampered its on paper performance at all when running in factory form. The gun routinely would do cloverleaf shaped 5 shot groups.

If anything this rifle needs weight. I suppose I could fill the forend up with a carbon arrow shaft and epoxy to stiffen it up. But why risk ruining a really accurate rifle any further for little reward. I would've been happy if McMillan or Manners or heck even VictorCompany would have made a stock just for the extra weight and bipod stud.
 
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This 77/22 has killed more shit than the plague. I've gotten quite a few offers for this rig even before prices skyrocketed. But it's pretty dang good rig. Lightweight and super accurate with CCI Sub's.....which hit hard as fuck. Has a SFP 6-18x40mm optic that is the weakest link. Wish it had side parallax and graduated reticle. But this thing has tracked and handled abuse better than Leupold Mark 4's I've had. I'm always cranked to max or min on the magnification ring.

And although the internet likes to poo poo the mags. I've never had issues at all and it's flush fitting 10rnds unlike almost everything else out there. Timney trigger (more like a spring kit) is a must do.

This rig has a few issues. No ability for a bipod. And the gun industry as a whole has fucked me with sandpaper when it comes to aftermarket support. No rail at all let alone a canted rail.....but it's 230yds capable with this 1" tube optic. Yeah, I know a rail exists but it's stupid thick. I carry a sand sock. And I use a pack for a front rest when on a bench. In the field I use a sock or nothing. Really wish a good quality target stock was available. Boyd stocks are trash.

There definitely needs to be more hollow point subsonic offerings. Wish SK/Lapua would do one that is common here in the states. CCI standards can kill stuff but I've had numerous occasions where things got speared and ran/flew off. CCI 40gr HP's would knock a quarter sized exit wound. I never can find the Winchester 42gr HP's to really get a sense of them. If there's others out there....let me know.

I would say get barrel length. Unless it's a truck gun. It's only a plus to run longer on a suppressed rig. Keeps the ammo slow and keeps the report further away from you. I've shot/set up indoors....length has never been a real issue.
I wish ruger still made this rifle.
 
I wish ruger still made this rifle.
Ruger American when it first came out had my hopes up. It has a better bolt release, better safety position. Came with a pic rail (some come canted). But Ruger did what Ruger does....and cut as many corners as they could.

Why they didn't make it easy to barrel swap....blows my mind. The triggers are super easy to lower the pull weight to a somewhat desirable degree. Imagine buying a drop in Lilja barrel any one of dozen McMillan stocks. It could be a totally different animal and be easily competitive.

Problem with 77/22 is the same with any Ruger.....no consistent standard of performance. Hard to spend $700 (8-10 years ago) on a very meh performing example with no real support. I've seen more meh examples in person than extraordinary ones. I picked mine up used at a gun show for little over 3 bills....15 years ago. Now every gun show table is asking 1k to 12 bills....they aren't moving them.
 
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Now I am Googling to see what a $900 10/22 looks like.

It doesn't take much to get to $900 on a 10/22 type setup that performs well enough for plinking and rodents.

At 45-50 yards from a rest this setup holds it's own. All-in, counting throw away parts, it's a couple-three hundred maybe four north of a $grand with a basic trigger upgrade, suppressor and stamp.

As has been mentioned, for beyond 50 or anything in between glass with the proper parallax is required but it won't mean anything if the rifle can't hold a decent group.


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I had a 10/22 that was north of 1 grand. Was too unreliable considering the then cost. I really like my 77/22. But as far as I'm concerned 10/22's are total overhyped pieces of shit that Ruger only made cheaper and cheaper over time. Being a Lego skill level build isn't a redeeming factor. So many frankenguns are the worst running, meh on paper piles ever shown to the internet. I've seen a few "high end" variants that were equally turds in function. You start charging over a grand....that fucker better run like a watch and it better shoot.

The gun industry has pressed the 10/22 into roles it was never meant to be in. And for every dude on the internet that says his is the cat's pajamas....you can find 40 dudes who've sent their guns down the road.
 
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10/22's are total overhyped pieces of shit that Ruger only made cheaper and cheaper over time

True basic Ruger 10/22s are trash agreed. I've thrown away (sold off) 3 of them trying to get one that will shoot straight and run clean.

Any semi-auto 22 is going to get gummed up and require a breakdown to get it running smoothly again. I don't care how much aftermarket KIDD stuff you slap on it eventually it will stop running, 22LR is just a nasty, dirty little cartridge.

The "10/22"s I have now both started life as a TCR-22, the barrels got swapped out for TacSol SBX and shimmed tight in receivers. For a couple hundred rounds they are hella fun and plenty accurate for plinking rodents. After a couple hundred rounds feeding and cycling issues may start cropping up but that's no different than the semi-auto rimfire pistols I've owned.

My 22 bolt gun, on the other hand, always shoots like a champ, gets a light cleaning before going back to the safe and is ready to go for the next outing.
 
I had a 10/22 that was north of 1 grand. Was too unreliable considering the then cost. I really like my 77/22. But as far as I'm concerned 10/22's are total overhyped pieces of shit that Ruger only made cheaper and cheaper over time. Being a Lego skill level build isn't a redeeming factor. So many frankenguns are the worst running, meh on paper piles ever shown to the internet. I've seen a few "high end" variants that were equally turds in function. You start charging over a grand....that fucker better run like a watch and it better shoot.

The gun industry has pressed the 10/22 into roles it was never meant to be in. And for every dude on the internet that says his is the cat's pajamas....you can find 40 dudes who've sent their guns down the road.
Mine had been very good with lighter recoil spring for SV ammo below freezing. Did several hundred more rounds yesterday. Ruger barrels and triggers are not usually much good.
 
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Maybe be they don’t make them like they used to, but when I was a kid (late 80s early 90s) I would take my 10/22 and a brick of ammo out into our little piece of property and generally didn’t return until I was out of ammo. I remember going to Walmart for ammo and my dad buying a single 50 round box of cartridges. My thoughts? “What am I supposed to do with that?” I’d shoot until I couldn’t hold it, then walk around until it cooled off a bit. If the feds ever found out how much 22 ammo I shot on that 10 acres, they’d probably declare it superfund site. 🤣

That barrel was precise enough to earn my rifle merit badge when I was in the Boy Scouts. The only time I ever remember it getting cleaned was when I dropped if from a pier into a stock pond. And, the only malfunctions that I can remember were ammo related.

When I moved out, it lived a neglected life. It sat next to the clothes dryer, with a loaded mag in the mag well, just waiting for my dad to spy a squirrel in one of the massive oak trees behind the house. It also took on a layer of surface rust across the entire exterior surface of the barrel. I never put a bore scope down the barrel, but I imagine that the interior looked like a sewer pipe, but dad never complained that he couldn’t hit a squirrel when needed, so it was still good enough. Maybe be bullet lube and neglect spared it the worst of sitting next to the dryer?

When I brought it back from my parents’ house, the bolt would seem to stop on the backstroke, then sort of kerr…chunk into battery, but it cycled. I was actually surprised by how quickly it cycled after a thorough cleaning.

It now wears a TacSol barrel, a Magpul stock, and has a Kidd trigger. I’ve had a few malfs associated with the 25 round BX mags, and Remington Golden bullet is best used as a malfunction clearance drill, but the Ruger factory 10 round rotary magazines are very reliable. Enough rounds through it and the action will get sluggish, but it must get VERY sluggish not to cycle.

I also have a Kidd Supergrade. When new, it would not reliably extract unfired cartridges when dirty, but that seems to have corrected itself- or running a bore snake through the barrel every couple 100 rounds is sufficient to remedy the problem. Regardless, the only malfunctions that I’ve had with it (since finding a bore snake) are related to Rem Golden bullet. And, it is precise enough to be competitive against Vudoos in competition.
 
I took my Marlin 60 out, with its $70 UTG Bug Buster 3-9x scope, to get a clearer idea of the top magnification I want. At 9x, a squirrel head should be no problem. Spotting individual .22 impacts on an Orange Peel target may be a little iffy. I will have to check on a bright day. It's rainy here.
 
I thought Athlon, Vortex, and Arken owned the bargain end of the market, but I forgot Primary Arms. They make a 1-10x24. I like the magnification range, but that's a pretty small objective lens. I have a 4-14x44 from Primary, and it works fine for screwing around at 100 yards. The 1-10x24 is expensive.
 
I thought Athlon, Vortex, and Arken owned the bargain end of the market, but I forgot Primary Arms. They make a 1-10x24. I like the magnification range, but that's a pretty small objective lens. I have a 4-14x44 from Primary, and it works fine for screwing around at 100 yards. The 1-10x24 is expensive.

What you'll find is that those 10 mag ratio LPVO scopes without a side focus have annoying IQ when at higher magnification and while at "closer distances". I bought and sold a nice 1-8 and a 1-10 because of this. Leave em on whatever mag they still look fine on and they'll work okay but the parallax is set at a fixed distance like 100Y or so.
I ended up with that March DFP shorty 1-10 that has a side focus because I didn't like what I saw through those other scopes and it's pretty good at 10x up closer but very expensive. There's another company that has a 1-10 with side focus but I don't remember the name.

That Primary Arms would work great for what you have in mind because the reticle is thicker so you can see it on lower magnification. A friend has one on his 10-22 and it's not a bad scope at all.

I almost can't stand looking through those Bug Busters. It's something I might maybe consider putting on a Crosman 760 or the like but that's where it ends for me. At least they are light and short.
 
The gun industry has pressed the 10/22 into roles it was never meant to be in. And for every dude on the internet that says his is the cat's pajamas....you can find 40 dudes who've sent their guns down the road.
Man, I'd hate to ask what you think of a Marlin Model 60.

I bought one just because I wanted the Model 60 experience. Innards like a BB gun. Horrendous trigger. Can't shoot hyper ammo. Can't free-float the barrel because of the tube magazine. You have to put your hand in front of the muzzle to load it. No front stud. The quality control is like 1970's Detroit. I sent it for warranty work because it shot 4" at 50 feet, and they didn't even try to fix it. Sent me a new one. The magazine fell off that one, and I fixed it myself.

The funny thing is, I really like shooting it. I stuck some MCARBO parts in it. I did a quality job installing a front stud. It looks great and feels good in the hand. Very accurate for what it is. Still not what I would call a quality gun.

People give me hell for criticizing the sacred Model 60.
 
Man, I'd hate to ask what you think of a Marlin Model 60.

I bought one just because I wanted the Model 60 experience. Innards like a BB gun. Horrendous trigger. Can't shoot hyper ammo. Can't free-float the barrel because of the tube magazine. You have to put your hand in front of the muzzle to load it. No front stud. The quality control is like 1970's Detroit. I sent it for warranty work because it shot 4" at 50 feet, and they didn't even try to fix it. Sent me a new one. The magazine fell off that one, and I fixed it myself.

The funny thing is, I really like shooting it. I stuck some MCARBO parts in it. I did a quality job installing a front stud. It looks great and feels good in the hand. Very accurate for what it is. Still not what I would call a quality gun.

People give me hell for criticizing the sacred Model 60.
I've got a Marlin Model 60; got it for Christmas when I was 12...in 1984. Put brick after brick of Thunderbolts through it without cleaning it once...as an adult I finally tore it apart for a thorough cleaning and it runs like a champ again. It's not a precision/match grade target rifle, but it successfully dispatched thousands of critters; mostly prairie dogs on a big town the neighbors had less than a mile from our farm back home in SD.
 
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Based on a recent thread, I am thinking I may give up on giving up on rimfire. Accurate rimfire, I mean. I'm one rationalization away from buying a 16" Tikka T1x. It's all over the 6x5 thread, and it's short and threaded, so I can put a can on it.

The purpose is to punish squirrels, mainly, although I do have coons here. My dream is to have a <2-MOA hunting .22 up to 50 yards for humane kills. Ordinarily I would not want a lot of magnification in a hunting scope or a .22 scope, but squirrels are tiny, and I would like to know exactly where my POA is on the rodent. I think going as big as 15x on the top end would not be crazy. Maybe even a low-end Athlon up to 24x.

I suppose it is conceivable I might try whacking a possum or some other reasonably large animal up to 150, but probably not. I'm sure I would eventually do prone target shooting at 100.

Is there any glass I should look into for this purpose, or should I forget overthinking and just pick up any decent MRAD scope somewhere in the 15x range?
You really shouldn't need anything over 12 power for 100 yd. . I'd opt for lower power BETTER Quality Glass myself .

I used to regularly shoot ground squirrels and gophers at 35-55 yards using a Simmons AETEC 4-14X44mm scope ,with My Air Arms .17 air rifle . I don't believe I ever ran it up over 6-8 power ,NO need .98% popped in the head , using JSB Exact Diabolo 7.6 gr.





4X12X40mm https://www.sportoptics.com/sig-sauer-whiskey-3-4-12x40-sow34204.html

https://www.sportoptics.com/dbk-04-bdc.html
 
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Another suggestion for HAWKE, i have one on an air rifle and one on my Ruger 22.

It's only a 3-9 but to does well with a basic Ruger American that has had 0 work done to it. Enough I can chip away at the green plastic on a metal 'tent' stake from HF at 100yds on a consistent basis. It nothing extraordinary but it works when needed and certainly fits in the price range you are looking at.

They have several variants a few of which are also illuminated.
 
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Man, I'd hate to ask what you think of a Marlin Model 60.

I bought one just because I wanted the Model 60 experience. Innards like a BB gun. Horrendous trigger. Can't shoot hyper ammo. Can't free-float the barrel because of the tube magazine. You have to put your hand in front of the muzzle to load it. No front stud. The quality control is like 1970's Detroit. I sent it for warranty work because it shot 4" at 50 feet, and they didn't even try to fix it. Sent me a new one. The magazine fell off that one, and I fixed it myself.

The funny thing is, I really like shooting it. I stuck some MCARBO parts in it. I did a quality job installing a front stud. It looks great and feels good in the hand. Very accurate for what it is. Still not what I would call a quality gun.

People give me hell for criticizing the sacred Model 60.

Ha! There are no $1000 Model 60's. So what I think of it is neither here nor there. Semi-auto's don't really excite me.

My first rimfire was a Remingron 522 Speedmaster that my Mom threw out on the concrete in an argument with my Dad. I was in Kindergarten at the time. That fight led to their divorce. Anyway, Dad left it in his closet till I asked about it when I was 12. I already had two pellet guns and a 20GA 870 youth shotgun. Dad was shocked I was even interested in it. He completely wrote it off. The stock was cracked badly, the front sight was bent over, a big chip in the crown, and road rash galore. But it ran fine after I took it apart and cleaned it properly. Shot it with a Bushnell 3-9x40 for years. Dad wasn't big on proper maintenance. I sold it in my 30's for a few bills. It wasn't hard to do. The gun was rough and it was time to send it down the road. Later, I found out my Dad bought another 522 Deluxe model. Lol

I also inherited my grandfather's model 60 about 3 years ago. Its sat in a oak gun cabinet for about 20yrs (he passed away 15yrs ago) so I tore it apart to inspect it. I don't think he hardly shot it. I blew out a little dust but there was little powder fouling anywhere. I think it dated back to the late 70's. Was a microgroove barrel gun I believe. I also got a Winchester 1895 takedown shotgun from him (made in like 1899 or 1901...super early model based on the matching serial #'s). I repaired that as well. I offered the Model 60 to a friend of mine who collects them. He declined....so some Joe Random bought it for $400 with a Weaver K2 I mounted on it. I do plan to field the 1895 just to say I've done it. The hammer disconnect in it is kinda cool.
 
Ha! There are no $1000 Model 60's. So what I think of it is neither here nor there. Semi-auto's don't really excite me.

My first rimfire was a Remingron 522 Speedmaster that my Mom threw out on the concrete in an argument with my Dad. I was in Kindergarten at the time. That fight led to their divorce. Anyway, Dad left it in his closet till I asked about it when I was 12. I already had two pellet guns and a 20GA 870 youth shotgun. Dad was shocked I was even interested in it. He completely wrote it off. The stock was cracked badly, the front sight was bent over, a big chip in the crown, and road rash galore. But it ran fine after I took it apart and cleaned it properly. Shot it with a Bushnell 3-9x40 for years. Dad wasn't big on proper maintenance. I sold it in my 30's for a few bills. It wasn't hard to do. The gun was rough and it was time to send it down the road. Later, I found out my Dad bought another 522 Deluxe model. Lol

I also inherited my grandfather's model 60 about 3 years ago. Its sat in a oak gun cabinet for about 20yrs (he passed away 15yrs ago) so I tore it apart to inspect it. I don't think he hardly shot it. I blew out a little dust but there was little powder fouling anywhere. I think it dated back to the late 70's. Was a microgroove barrel gun I believe. I also got a Winchester 1895 takedown shotgun from him (made in like 1899 or 1901...super early model based on the matching serial #'s). I repaired that as well. I offered the Model 60 to a friend of mine who collects them. He declined....so some Joe Random bought it for $400 with a Weaver K2 I mounted on it. I do plan to field the 1895 just to say I've done it. The hammer disconnect in it is kinda cool.
My granddaughter (10) shot 3 small gray cat squirrels last week, sitting at a bench inside my shop. With a Rem 552 speedmaster made in Dec 1957, the first year of production. The first squirrel was at 78 yards. The other 2 were at 88 and 91 yards. The gun belonged to my daddy and has a Weaver V4.5W (1.5-4.5). CCI mini mag HPs. Wouldn't trade it for the world.

You didn't shoot the Model 60? I won one at a gun show as a door prize and I must say with that microgroove barrel it was the most accurate cheap 22 I ever shot. My oldest son still has it and loves it. You do have to clean it after about 150 rds or so though.
 
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The Diamondback is mounted on a DIP rail, with whatever Walmart-grade rings I bought with it. The Helos is on the way. I tried the Banish 22 with subsonic for the first time today, and it's a hoot. People are right. It sounds like a loud air rifle. It's also acceptable with high velocity. Based on what I've read, I am pretty confident that it's hearing-safe with HV.

Tomorrow I hope to zero at 35 yards for my pals the squirrels and then shoot at 50 to see what the gun will do. I would rather hold over at 50 than while shooting squirrels. I don't know a whole lot, but this makes sense to me.
 
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The Diamondback is mounted on a DIP rail, with whatever Walmart-grade rings I bought with it. The Helos is on the way. I tried the Banish 22 with subsonic for the first time today, and it's a hoot. People are right. It sounds like a loud air rifle. It's also acceptable with high velocity. Based on what I've read, I am pretty confident that it's hearing-safe with HV.

Tomorrow I hope to zero at 35 yards for my pals the squirrels and then shoot at 50 to see what the gun will do. I would rather hold over at 50 than while shooting squirrels. I don't know a whole lot, but this makes sense to me.

I hope you like it.

Depending on your scope height and ammo choice, having a 50Y zero, you can use the center dot in that Helos for holds as a close as 20 yards, and as far as 60 yards by aiming using the bottom of the dot. The in between distances just hold center, and I'm talking about head shots here, because chest shots should result in a kill out to 70Y with slightly more holdover/Edit well just put the dot even with the squirrels backbone. It's pretty instinctive and you don't have to concentrate on hash marks. You'll see.

Then just set the focus at the distance you most likely anticipate taking a shot and you'll be GTG.
 
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I hope you like it.

Depending on your scope height and ammo choice, having a 50Y zero, you can use the center dot in that Helos for holds as a close as 20 yards, and as far as 60 yards by aiming using the bottom of the dot. The in between distances just hold center, and I'm talking about head shots here, because chest shots should result in a kill out to 70Y with slightly more holdover/Edit well just put the dot even with the squirrels backbone. It's pretty instinctive and you don't have to concentrate on hash marks. You'll see.

Then just set the focus at the distance you most likely anticipate taking a shot and you'll be GTG.
I have to thank you for recommending this scope. The advice you gave was fantastic. Lots of detail. I think I would have ended up with the wrong thing if I had picked something on my own.

I got it mounted yesterday, and while I didn't have time to sit down at a bench with it today, I did manage to get it on paper at 35 yards from my back porch using Mini-mags and a hunting bipod with no rear support. I will not win any prizes with my accuracy, but the biggest 5-shot groups were 0.875" and the smallest was 0.5", so I'm on my way. My test ammo is starting to arrive.

The glass is pretty clear. The illumination is bright. The front bell is small enough to let me use low rings. The eye box is very long. The magnification is perfect for 50-yard targets.

Messed with the rifle's trigger tonight, and I'm down to 1.5 pounds. I haven't hit the butt with a rifle yet.

The dot in the reticle is pretty big, but as you say, I don't have to zero on the dot. I was thinking of zeroing on the top of the dot, but I will consider your advice since you have already been there.
 
I’ve killed a ton of squirrels over the years hunting them with dogs and have been down a similar rabbit hole searching for the perfect scope. I’ve got a Kidd Supergrade so while I wanted something that performed in the woods, I wanted something that was solid on the bench too. I’ve tried SWFA 3–15x, Vortex Razor HD 3-15x42 and 4.5-22x50, Burris XTR III 3.3-18x50, Nightforce 2.5-10x42 and Leupold EFR 3-9x33. For just hunting squirrels, the Leupold was probably best for the job. All the magnification I needed in a much smaller and lighter package for walking in the woods.
 
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I have to thank you for recommending this scope. The advice you gave was fantastic. Lots of detail. I think I would have ended up with the wrong thing if I had picked something on my own.

I got it mounted yesterday, and while I didn't have time to sit down at a bench with it today, I did manage to get it on paper at 35 yards from my back porch using Mini-mags and a hunting bipod with no rear support. I will not win any prizes with my accuracy, but the biggest 5-shot groups were 0.875" and the smallest was 0.5", so I'm on my way. My test ammo is starting to arrive.

The glass is pretty clear. The illumination is bright. The front bell is small enough to let me use low rings. The eye box is very long. The magnification is perfect for 50-yard targets.

Messed with the rifle's trigger tonight, and I'm down to 1.5 pounds. I haven't hit the butt with a rifle yet.

The dot in the reticle is pretty big, but as you say, I don't have to zero on the dot. I was thinking of zeroing on the top of the dot, but I will consider your advice since you have already been there.

Seems to be working out for you then.

I don't use the HG2 2-12 for groups very much but when I have I'll put the top of the dot touching whatever I'm aiming at, that way I have an exact aim point and the group will land slightly low so I can keep aiming at the same place since it's undamaged by bullet holes.

The way it works is when you shoot closer in you have to aim higher(holding higher) due to scope height above bore, and when farther out than PBR the bullets are dropping so you have to aim continually higher, so that's why I mentioned to place the bottom of the dot on POA at 20Y and 60Y with a 50Y zero. Your numbers will vary slightly depending on scope height and ammo velocity so you'll need to figure that out.

A fun example of this is when I use my Field Target air rifle in comps my zero is at 30Y but when I shoot at 10Y I have to holdover 3.2 mils due to the particular scope height above bore. Farther out the pellet has dropped enough that it's also 3.2 mils for 78Y, though our farthest distance is 55Y in this game.

If you use a ballistic calculator it'll show you how much to holdover for extreme angles. For my FT rifle if a squirrel was up in a tree at 45 degrees the dope at 10Y would change to 2.7 mils.