Maggie’s The Wood Shop

#751
The metal part is done... the wood is just getting started... nice piece of maple... Inletting is way better when done with a milling machine and just finishing with sharp chisels!!!

Apparently, photos are having a problem right now, so I’ll have to upload later.

Photo issue on SH fixed…. I present… war hammer!!!

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Sirhr
 
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#752
sirhrmechanic said:
The metal part is done... the wood is just getting started... nice piece of maple... Inletting is way better when done with a milling machine and just finishing with sharp chisels!!!

Apparently, photos are having a problem right now, so I’ll have to upload later.
Click to expand...
Ban this man for omitting pictures!
 
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#753
For sure. Pics or get out. Lol. Spending my Christmas day out in the garage trying out different finishes. Man, we could have an entire thread on finishes alone. So many and different types. Overwhelming. I'm just using up scrap and staining and coating with different stains and finishes to see what clicks for me.
 
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#758
Another little wordworking project done... Been finishing a ton of stuff this week while taking some time off and with no farm work to do!

This is a little kit I've had sitting around for years. Sort of a 'weekend kit' that took me a couple of weekends... but I went in to a lot of extra detail and careful finishing. It's a section of the HMS Victory Gundeck... Had a lot of fun with it!

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Cheers!!!

Sirhr
 
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#759
And another cool project coming to an end...

This one has been posted somewhere on SH by @Bigfatcock... and is a pair of Colt Python Roper Grips. We have been talking about this (and working on it) for almost 2 years. Including our back and forth while he selected the absolute perfect piece of wood! If you don't know, BFC makes some of the best Colt SAA grips ever. This was his first time doing a set of Ropers or Python grips and he knocked it out of the park!!!

I got them back here unfinished and with extra wood on various parts. So I spent much of this afternoon working on re-shaping the palm swell, trigger and pinkie areas to fit my hand. Took a fair amount off to get them roughed, then re-smoothed. After shaping, I went with files and scraper and then rough sandpaper on a stick and rod... then to smoothing. From 180 or so grit through 1000 grit. After 240 grit, I started whiskering with hot water and a small torch through 320, 400, 600, 800 and, 1000. After each round wiped with laquer thinner then hot water to raise grain/whiskers. Then cutting them off with the next paper.

Then put on a coat of Minwax stain that is drying overnight before getting a coat or two of Tru-Oil. They are the most beautiful grips I've seen (thanks BFC!!!) and if one did not know they were a Roper-interpretation, they would think that these are the real deal. Smooth as butter in my hands!

One of the best woodworking projects ever!

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More to follow when I get the oil on...these are just sanded to 1000 grit and the stain is polished with a paper towel!

Stunning!!

Sirhr
 
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#762
Oh, and in case, no one noticed something a bit sketchy about the single action army…

It’s another one I got in the White from Uberti. I’ve wanted to do it with aged bluing and worn Colt Rock grips. And I think it came out about perfect.

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Now I need to figure out how to age the holster and belt properly!

Cheers!

Sirhr
 
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#763
sirhrmechanic said:
Oh, and in case, no one noticed something a bit sketchy about the single action army…

It’s another one I got in the White from Uberti. I’ve wanted to do it with an aged set of brewing and Colt Rock grips. And I think it came out about perfect.

View attachment 8579350

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Now I need to figure out how to age the holster and belt properly!

Cheers!

Sirhr
Click to expand...
Wrap them in burlap, throw them in the cargo area and go on a week 4x4 trip.

In all truth, just wear the darn things while working around the homestead. Give it some true wear and tear.
 
#764
Modoc said:
Wrap them in burlap, throw them in the cargo area and go on a week 4x4 trip.

In all truth, just wear the darn things while working around the homestead. Give it some true wear and tear.
Click to expand...
I'd gladly wear it... but it's half scale. I'd need a 17 inch waist...

Of course, maybe I could strap it on a cat and send them mousing!

Cheers!
 
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#766
I don't know shit about wood, but I do know a thing or two about leather. What I have learned about wood so far is that I am not a fan of sanding and finishing. God, it sucks. Especially when I keep sanding back thru my coat because I put on the finish too thick and it runs and I have to redo it.

To age your leather gun belt I would mist it with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and 99% isopropyl alcohol or just use a 60% solution. Just mist it, not soak it so the leather is cool to the touch and "cased". Touch up the spots that would see the most wear like the bottom of the holster, bitter end of the gun belt, etc with some 600 grit sandpaper then bend, twist and work the leather while it is still damp This will add in some scratches and patina and cause the dye to lighten up. Hitting it all over with a nylon bristle brush like what you use to scrub the floor or a stiff toothbrush can add more patina. Let it dry and evaluate. Repeat if not the desired level of distressing. Then recondition the leather with some leather conditioner which will darken it back up.

Alternately you could strap that on as an ankle back up and proceed to work around the farm. Good luck.
 
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#767
bigdaddydmd said:
\Let it dry and evaluate. Repeat if not the desired level of distressing. Then recondition the leather with some leather conditioner which will darken it back up.

Alternately you could strap that on as an ankle back up and proceed to work around the farm. Good luck.
Click to expand...

As I am neither Starsky nor Hutch... I'll take the earlier advice in your post!

Thank you very much... I like this approach and will attempt it!

Sirhr
 
#768
Got one of those 2'x4' floating frames done over the weekend. It is maple. The dark one is that burned pine that I sanded down and tried a stain/polyurethane coating on, but it is whipping my butt. I can't seem to get an even coat or it runs. I may just strip it and go to a stain then a clear varnish over the top as the all in one product is proving frustrating.

Tossed in a few pics of a leather buscedero holster I made a few years ago with my crest on it. Think I posted it in an old leather wokers thread we had here in the Hide. That one would probably fall down around your ankles @sirhrmechanic since it's built for a robust German named BigDaddy. Lol
 

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#769
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#770
Bigfatcock said:
Those came out beautiful!! This was a fun project, and I really learned a lot reading Roper’s book. I need to send it your way.
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Not sure you want the extra work... but if anyone here wants the best custom grips in the USA right now... these are they!

It was an honor to work with you. And what you charged me was a pittance compared to the effort you put in. I mean... not even minimum wage.

So I really mean it when I talk about these as a labor of love and say that the artwork far exceeds the price from my end.

Any of you guys who want the most amazing custom grips ever... Now you know who to contact. And this is only my first set... by no means my last!!!
 
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#771
sirhrmechanic said:
Not sure you want the extra work... but if anyone here wants the best custom grips in the USA right now... these are they!

It was an honor to work with you. And what you charged me was a pittance compared to the effort you put in. I mean... not even minimum wage.

So I really mean it when I talk about these as a labor of love and say that the artwork far exceeds the price from my end.

Any of you guys who want the most amazing custom grips ever... Now you know who to contact. And this is only my first set... by no means my last!!!
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Thank you so much! That means a lot coming from a craftsman like yourself!
 
#773
bdubmkg said:
Well, i tried to wood work. Began changing the blades out in my gramps older model jet planer. Wrench let loose and I slammed my fingers onto the blade resulting in six stitches. This was Friday night
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Those hands needed some scars anyway…

So what did you make when you finished stitching yourself up?

Sirhr
 
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#775
sirhrmechanic said:
Those hands needed some scars anyway…

So what did you make when you finished stitching yourself up?

Sirhr
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The right hand has had about 14 stitches in it at various times.. left had has been lucky.

Planed down an oak board then that's about it. Hoping today to pick up some walnut to work on a bench for the entryway
 
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#782
Serious question for you experienced wood worker folks. I've been reading about "kickback" on table saws. Haven't experienced it yet. Is it safe to rip wood with the grain like this against the fence? I get the impression against the grain crosscut against the fence is a big no no, but what about with the grain?

I'm using a bow fingerboard more to keep my piece straight against my fence, but it supposedly helps with kickback. And I make sure I'm not standing directly behind the piece and use a push stick. Anything else I should be doing for safety? I'd kinda like to keep my fingers. No, I don't have a saw stop... yet. Maybe one day.

In this case I was ripping down the face of the shadow frame to match the depth dimensions of a canvas before I assembled the pieces.
 

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#783
bigdaddydmd said:
Serious question for you experienced wood worker folks. I've been reading about "kickback" on table saws. Haven't experienced it yet. Is it safe to rip wood with the grain like this against the fence? I get the impression against the grain crosscut against the fence is a big no no, but what about with the grain?

I'm using a bow fingerboard more to keep my piece straight against my fence, but it supposedly helps with kickback. And I make sure I'm not standing directly behind the piece and use a push stick. Anything else I should be doing for safety? I'd kinda like to keep my fingers. No, I don't have a saw stop... yet. Maybe one day.

In this case I was ripping down the face of the shadow frame to match the depth dimensions of a canvas before I assembled the pieces.
Click to expand...

The thumbnail pic has the feather board too far forward.

 
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#784
Personally I dont use feather boards on my table saw but absolutely use them on my shaper.

Your picture and grain looks good to me. Definitely don't cut across the grain on a tablesaw if using a fence. Use the push square guide in the slot.

I have seen kickbacks from table saws and broke a bone in my wrist from one in a planer. They're no joke.
My biggest advice would be to get comfortable using push sticks. One for larger cuts two if smaller stock. My personal rule of thumb is to never get my fingers closer than the throat plate. Watch your cut. Ive seen wood bow and warp when the pieces get loose of each other. That can cause pinching on the blade. Most kickbacks on a table saw are generally pieces too small and not using push sticks to get thru the cut or free-hand cutting type stuff.

My Dad has had more than a couple serious cuts from his table saw and finally invested in a Sawstopbsaw. +++remember that one trip to the ER will cost much much more that that Sawstop saw does+++
 
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#788
I picked up my dads old wood lathe over xmas that has sat in it's box for about 20 years now unused.
I set it up last weekend and started to have a play.

As a quick test, the only suitable piece of wood I had in my garage for turning was a 40mm square piece of cheap pine I used on the chook house build.
Too small to make a mini baseball bat, so I made a phallus lol



This is the first ever bowl that I've turned that is currently on the lathe.
I made it from some pine and redwood that I laminated together to give a layered effect. I need to give it a final fine sand and choose a suitable coating for it.

 
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#789
Aussie Joe said:
I picked up my dads old wood lathe over xmas that has sat in it's box for about 20 years now unused.
I set it up last weekend and started to have a play.

As a quick test, the only suitable piece of wood I had in my garage for turning was a 40mm square piece of cheap pine I used on the chook house build.
Too small to make a mini baseball bat, so I made a phallus lol



This is the first ever bowl that I've turned that is currently on the lathe.
I made it from some pine and redwood that I laminated together to give a layered effect. I need to give it a final fine sand and choose a suitable coating for it.

Click to expand...

Great start… were you a Marine by any chance?

Look forward to some cool projects!!!

Sirhr
 
#791
Aussie Joe said:
Is that a relationship between marines and the love of cock? Nah, there are no marines here in the land of Aus, except those based in Darwin on a permanent rotation posting.
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Nope… but give a Marine a blank canvas and he will draw a schlong on it!

I’m not wrong ;-)

Nice work on the bowl!
 
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#792
camocorvette said:
Ole lady wanted something in the living room. So she's always the general and I'm the labor.
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First one I've ever built. I'm sure it could be picked apart in design. But it's how she wanted it, serves the purpose and solid.
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So stupid question? Is that a gas fire place? I just didn't see any pipes in your frame up pic. Looks amazing by the way! Thanks
 
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#795
Ok... at it again. Another fine English gun that some twat-waffle fitted with a Pachymeyer recoil pad... and butchered the heck out of it.

So I've very carefully cut the stock back and will be fitting a horn buttplate from Galazan. Fortunately, I had two because the first one started to de-laminate when I started to work it. This will be set to 14 3/8" LOP... and need a new pair of proper screws (which are inbound) and will need engraving after fitting, polishing, etc.

Fortunately, got a great deal on the gun. I started down the road of re-stocking, but that ended in a couple of dead ends. So I finally made some good repairs at the action and now putting on the buttplate. Going to be a wonderful bird gun once I get it back together. One of a composed pair with case! Some of these great old vintage bird guns can be a deal if you can do some of the (careful!) wood repairs and restorations yourself.


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Rough fitting is done... but the scary part begins with the final fitting....

Well, patience, sharp chisels and careful masking and hopefully I won't nick or otherwise screw up an otherwise beautiful stock!

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
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#796
Slash0311 said:
How do you do your inlays? Ive done a lot with soild surface and liquid expoxy type stuff but never wood. I think my CNC would do that but will take some trial and error.View attachment 8582508

This is a clock I made by cutting and sliding two pieces together.
Click to expand...
I use a cnc, use a v carve bit, generally I use a 3.92 degree bit. There are Pros and cons of using wider angled bits.
 
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#798
bigdaddydmd said:
Serious question for you experienced wood worker folks. I've been reading about "kickback" on table saws. Haven't experienced it yet. Is it safe to rip wood with the grain like this against the fence? I get the impression against the grain crosscut against the fence is a big no no, but what about with the grain?

I'm using a bow fingerboard more to keep my piece straight against my fence, but it supposedly helps with kickback. And I make sure I'm not standing directly behind the piece and use a push stick. Anything else I should be doing for safety? I'd kinda like to keep my fingers. No, I don't have a saw stop... yet. Maybe one day.

In this case I was ripping down the face of the shadow frame to match the depth dimensions of a canvas before I assembled the pieces.
Click to expand...
I would see if you can attach a wood splitter. It goes right behind the saw blade and has spring loaded teeth on it to grab the wood if it tries to kick back. Also, joint one edge of the board so it fits snuggly to the fence. Bowed boards are the worst for kick back, so getting a straight edge will really help.
As noted above, use a push stick and stand to the side ( unless you want a homemade vasectomy ). There is a lot of power in a kicked back board. Make sure your fence is parallel to the saw blade. If not, the board will bind and kick back. Immediately turn the power off, and don't try to push it through.
 
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#799
Ok, brains trust.
I'm looking at building a new woodworking bench for my garage. I have drawn up a design that will fit the space and maximise my storage space as well as an undershelf and top shelf that I can also mount an LED work light to the underside.

What I'm looking for ideas, is the most suitable joins for the horizontal bench/shelf beams to the vertical legs.
Originally, I was going to butt joints it or possibly use pocket hole screws, but falling down the endless youtube rabbit hole, has me thinking of different joints to make it stronger.

My original plan has all the structure made from 90x35mm pine (roughly 3.5" x 1.4") but to do any serious joints such as a lap joint, I will need to change out the vertical posts to much larger square posts around 100mm (~4") to allow or the removal of the lap recesses.

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This is the design idea that I am drawing from for reference.

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Now, keeping in mind, I don't have a full blown wood shop like the creaters on youtube, so am just limited to what I can do using a compound mitre saw, router and hand tools at this moment if you can keeo that in mind when throwing ideas. I would also like to keep the ideas simple so please no fancy Japanese hoity-toity joints either lol
 
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#800
Aussie Joe said:
Ok, brains trust.
I'm looking at building a new woodworking bench for my garage. I have drawn up a design that will fit the space and maximise my storage space as well as an undershelf and top shelf that I can also mount an LED work light to the underside.

What I'm looking for ideas, is the most suitable joins for the horizontal bench/shelf beams to the vertical legs.
Originally, I was going to butt joints it or possibly use pocket hole screws, but falling down the endless youtube rabbit hole, has me thinking of different joints to make it stronger.

My original plan has all the structure made from 90x35mm pine (roughly 3.5" x 1.4") but to do any serious joints such as a lap joint, I will need to change out the vertical posts to much larger square posts around 100mm (~4") to allow or the removal of the lap recesses.

View attachment 8583704

This is the design idea that I am drawing from for reference.

View attachment 8583705

Now, keeping in mind, I don't have a full blown wood shop like the creaters on youtube, so am just limited to what I can do using a compound mitre saw, router and hand tools at this moment if you can keeo that in mind when throwing ideas. I would also like to keep the ideas simple so please no fancy Japanese hoity-toity joints either lol
Click to expand...

To me a work bench is just that a work bench. You can get carried away with all sorts of fancy joinery but in the end it is a work bench.
I would build something very similar to what you pictured and change the legs to 4x4's. glue and screw all the joints and use it. My big assy bench is 4'x8' and consists of six 4x4 legs 2x6 frames and 2 layers of 3/4 for the top. and a 3/4" shelf underneath.
Now I have seen some beautiful benches made by master craftsmen but is it any better?
 
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