Help me fix my HNT26

Soldier Mountain Arms developed a ‘HNT26 Fix’ this year. Sounds like it addresses the issues described. It should come from mdt without needing a fix, with what they cost. I don’t have one, so this is just a FYI

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I talked to the team from SMA in Idaho this year and this is a little false advertising as it isn't a fix, as much as a better way to add bedding compound to a HNT-26. This will not actually improve stiffness and has limited data to support any bedding improvements, so I would be hesitant to suggest this as the "be all, end all" solution. Nothing against those guys and they definitely care about the guns that they build, it is just a little misleading.
 
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SMA is friends of mine and have spun many barrels for me. I don’t think they designed the FIX to improve any forend flex, I’m not sure you could do that without reinforcing the entire thing. I also haven’t noticed the forend flex as much of an issue to begin with. In the few chassis I’ve seen the fix installed, it’s just a good way to add the option of bedding the action. Without it, there’s nothing to contact forward of the lug. Does that really matter? Is bedding necessary in any quality stock/chassis?? I can’t say for sure, but it definitely doesn’t hurt and it makes me feel quite a bit better torquing my action in to a tight fitting bed job.
 
They’re good guys over there and local to me. It’s who we use for our work guns.
Pick their brain and see if their fix will work for you. I trust them, they are anal about their rifles.
After reading some posts here I called SMA and spoke w Logan. He cleared things up; this doesn't address the connection of forend or flex in any manner. Very friendly, helpful and canceled my previous order immediately. Back to square one.
 
I understand that the HNT26 for the Tikka’s have a slightly different setup due to the Tikka action? The HNT26 would be the last piece of my lightweight Tikka hunting/match rifle.
The Tikka actions don't have a recoil lug that protrudes like a Remington/Remington Clone, however, the forend interface is the same. For a crossover match and hunting rifle, the HNT-26 will absolutely be the lightest, but there are pro's and con's to that in a match environment.

- Josh
 
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The Tikka actions don't have a recoil lug that protrudes like a Remington/Remington Clone, however, the forend interface is the same. For a crossover match and hunting rifle, the HNT-26 will absolutely be the lightest, but there are pro's and con's to that in a match environment.

- Josh
My match stuff will be less often and more fun/relaxing going forward. More hunting and carrying around. The folder is important to me too.
 
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If theyre steel barrels, thats gotta be contributing to your issue. Pounds of extra weight over the forend. Whats the purpose for the rifle?
I used the 6.5 in 1 nrlh match. Liked nrl, but far more prs matches available to me. The 25cm was to run same ba & cartridge for both. Don't want carbon barrels. I don't see how you could get a balanced rifle w them anyway. Heavy suppressor?
 
Agree with @Supersubes. My last 24” M24 SS barrel chambered in 6CM (with threaded muzzle) weighed 5 pounds 12oz.

My bare rifle (HNT26, lone peak, TriggerTech, 22” proof barrel) weighs 6 pounds 11 oz.

I’m sure that’s a major factor as to why I am not experiencing the same flex. This all makes much more sense now.
 
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It made weight in this chassis w prs ba setup.
I think people find it a strange combination, since this chassis is aimed for getting the lightest possible rifle. Which would be light profile steel barrel, or CF barrel.

Where you are aiming for something as heavy as just your barreled actions
 
I have 2 HNT26s and like them. Are they perfect? No, but they’re still good for what they are which is an ultra light chassis.

Yes, the forend moves and flexes a bit on the tripod, but it’s an ultra light chassis and I didn’t expect the same rigidity out of it as say my Manners TCS with a double dead shell and a steel ARCA rail, especially if I try to force it that last little bit onto target without unlocking the ball head on the tripod which results in some flex and movement. I’m also running carbon barrels as both are lightweight pack-friendly builds, so I can't comment on forend flexibility with a heavy steel barrel. I can still shoot tiny groups from both my HNT26s, it just takes a bit more attention than with heavier and stiffer stocks.

That being said, the current forend attachment using the flathead screws compressing the carbon fiber could be improved IMO. I have thought about machining and bonding titanium bushings to the carbon fiber forend, that way the forend to center section connection is now a solid metal to metal bolted joint rather than the current design of a flathead screw pinching a thin cross section of carbon fiber.

Look at the pictures below. We use similar bonded bushings all the time on spacecraft composite structures and not only are they stiff they survive launch loads and thermal loads.

Sure, using bushings means the forend attachment hardware would no longer be flush, but they would be smooth with minimal protrusion and snag-free and allow a higher fastener torque to hold the forend on. Consider a bushing similar to the pictures bonded onto the forend, with a boss/nipple on the backside of the bushing slightly taller than the thickness as the carbon fiber forend to allow for a bond line, and the front side slightly counterbored to let a reduced height head socket head bolt sit flush with the top of the bushing or countersunk for a flat head screw to sit flush with the outside of the bushing. This way the boss on the back of the bushing protrudes through the forend to be in direct metal to metal contact with the center section to take the compression load rather than the current design of a flat head screw compressing the carbon fiber forend; now the screw can be torqued more since it’s a metal to metal joint. The larger surface area of the bushing flange gives the epoxy plenty of surface area for a strong bond and distributes the loads to the forend. With the bushing being machined with tapered edges it would be smooth and snag free and barely stick out from the existing forend.

I have a strong hunch that such a bonded bushing attachment method would significantly stiffen the chassis to forend joint while adding very little weight, but it would certainly increase manufacturing and labor costs if such a design change was implemented on MDT’s end. You could probably make the forend to chassis joint even stronger if the 2 side bushings were machined as ovals and utilized both side screw attachment points in the center section of the chassis (the current forend design uses only a single screw on each side of the forend even though the center section of the chassis is drilled and tapped for 2 forend screws on each side. The earliest versions of the HNT26 utilized 2 screws on each side of the forend, current versions only use a single screw on each side AFAIK which is what I was told by MDT.)

Just random thoughts from a guy who designs and works with metallic and composite structures that get sent throughout the solar system…

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I have 2 HNT26s and like them. Are they perfect? No, but they’re still good for what they are which is an ultra light chassis.

Yes, the forend moves and flexes a bit on the tripod, but it’s an ultra light chassis and I didn’t expect the same rigidity out of it as say my Manners TCS with a double dead shell and a steel ARCA rail, especially if I try to force it that last little bit onto target without unlocking the ball head on the tripod which results in some flex and movement. I’m also running carbon barrels as both are lightweight pack-friendly builds, so I can't comment on forend flexibility with a heavy steel barrel. I can still shoot tiny groups from both my HNT26s, it just takes a bit more attention than with heavier and stiffer stocks.

That being said, the current forend attachment using the flathead screws compressing the carbon fiber could be improved IMO. I have thought about machining and bonding titanium bushings to the carbon fiber forend, that way the forend to center section connection is now a solid metal to metal bolted joint rather than the current design of a flathead screw pinching a thin cross section of carbon fiber.

Look at the pictures below. We use similar bonded bushings all the time on spacecraft composite structures and not only are they stiff they survive launch loads and thermal loads.

Sure, using bushings means the forend attachment hardware would no longer be flush, but they would be smooth with minimal protrusion and snag-free and allow a higher fastener torque to hold the forend on. Consider a bushing similar to the pictures bonded onto the forend, with a boss/nipple on the backside of the bushing slightly taller that the thickness as the carbon fiber forend to allow for a bond line, and the front side slightly counterbored to let a reduced height head socket head bolt sit flush with the top of the bushing or countersunk for a flat head screw to sit flush with the outside of the bushing. This way the boss on the back of the bushing protrudes through the forend to be in direct metal to metal contact with the center section to take the compression load rather than the current design of a flat head screw compressing the carbon fiber forend; now the screw can be torqued more since it’s a metal to metal joint. The larger surface area of the bushing flange gives the epoxy plenty of surface area for a strong bond and distributes the loads to the forend. With the bushing being machined with tapered edges it would be smooth and snag free and barely stick out from the existing forend.

I have a strong hunch that such a bonded bushing attachment method would significantly stiffen the chassis to forend joint while adding very little weight, but it would certainly increase manufacturing and labor costs if such a design change was implemented on MDT’s end. You could probably make the forend to chassis joint even stronger if the 2 side bushings were machined as ovals and utilized both side screw attachment points in the center section of the chassis (the current forend design uses only a single screw on each side of the forend even though the center section of the chassis is drilled and tapped for 2 forend screws on each side. The earliest versions of the HNT26 utilized 2 screws on each side of the forend, current versions only use a single screw on each side AFAIK which is what I was told by MDT.)

Just random thoughts from a guy who designs and works with metallic and composite structures that get sent throughout the solar system…

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As a note on this, we have had discussions with professionals in the defense and aerospace industries that have helped us with some of the upcoming improvements to our carbon fiber components! Your solution is definitely well though out and obviously comes from a place of experience, and as such, I hope that some of our future products will look a little more familiar to you ;)

- Josh
 
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As a note on this, we have had discussions with professionals in the defense and aerospace industries that have helped us with some of the upcoming improvements to our carbon fiber components! Your solution is definitely well though out and obviously comes from a place of experience, and as such, I hope that some of our future products will look a little more familiar to you ;)

- Josh

Looking forward to see what you've come up with. I've been kicking around the bonded bushing idea for a few months now as it would be rather easy to implement on the 2 HNT26's I already have; buy some new screws, make the bushings, bore out the forend holes a bit larger, and bond them in place. Plenty of Ti bar stock sitting around the machine shop but I need to draw something up and generate a program for the NC lathe.
 
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I’ve been waiting so long for my chassis to have nipples

Don't blame me when you didn't even notice the trophy buck because you were too busy tweaking the nipples on your chassis, lol

Must have pierced option (•-•)(•-•)

Easily done, I'll just make sure the new screws on the side have drilled heads for safety wire. The choice of safety wire or barbell is up to the end user. :ROFLMAO:
 
After reading some posts here I called SMA and spoke w Logan. He cleared things up; this doesn't address the connection of forend or flex in any manner. Very friendly, helpful and canceled my previous order immediately. Back to square one.
Sorry it didn’t work out. I didn’t realize what the fix was exactly for since I don’t have one. I just knew I had seen pics of it on SMA and thought it might be an avenue worth checking into.
 
Well, I was looking at this chassis for my 7 PRC build, but I think I’ll hold out for either the second gen of it or the CRBN to come out in a r700 left handed long action 🥲
A boy can dream <3 We've been in production of the HNT-26 for a few years and still don't have that inlet available, even though it is just a new machined piece (not a new mold component) :cry:
 
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I have the chassis and run it as light-weight set up with Defiance SA and 20" Paradigm CF barrel in 6.5CM. So a short, light, low-recoil setup. Yes the forend moves a bit and flexes but so do some hunting stocks. It has no effect on the shooting I do. Even Harris bipod mounted on the front sling swivel does not seem to make it bounce/flex enough to change the impact significantly during recoil. So for me, near perfect solution for hunting and fun shooting with a chassis based, light weight setup.

Kiba's solution above is very attractive and slick and it would prevent people from potentially cracking the carbon fiber should they over-torque the mounting screws (which MDT instructions warn against). But I do not think it would help with the flex much. It's a thin, light, carbon fiber. It will flex. If I want something stiffer, it will most likely be thicker and/or heavier.

I love my HNT26 and I know this does not help the OP but horses for courses comes to mind. You have to compromise otherwise.
 
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Which variant though? We have ventured down the rabbit hole of developing a Mauser inlet a few times, but without a dedicated variant to work off of, it's hard to make them all work :(
Yes there were many. I could be wrong, but I think the most common is the "military" K98 (same as Czech 98, Yugo M98, Brno VZ24,etc.). They match the commercial Mausers also (unless you get their intermediate with the longer front receiver ring/tenon). Small ring Brnos (like mod 21/22) could also be fitted into these but would have to be bedded. And then with any small change, you are back to bedding. Which would be fine by me but I understand your point. Husqvarna 98 actions seem to be a bit thicker (larger dia receiver rings, thicker triggers, etc.)
 
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I understand that the HNT26 for the Tikka’s have a slightly different setup due to the Tikka action? The HNT26 would be the last piece of my lightweight Tikka hunting/match rifle.
I have the Tikka version and I run a 6.5 Creedmoor in it for NRL Hunter and my carbon barreled 6.5 PRC in it for hunting. I ran my 6 creedmoor in it for awhile for night hunting coyotes and tried to run the Vortex Impact 4000 on the forend, but it did flex enough that the impact wasn't always zeroed. I never had an issue with the rifle staying zeroed, but the forend isn't a good mounting point for anything like a clip on or lrf.
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I have the Tikka version and I run a 6.5 Creedmoor in it for NRL Hunter and my carbon barreled 6.5 PRC in it for hunting. I ran my 6 creedmoor in it for awhile for night hunting coyotes and tried to run the Vortex Impact 4000 on the forend, but it did flex enough that the impact wasn't always zeroed. I never had an issue with the rifle staying zeroed, but the forend isn't a good mounting point for anything like a clip on or lrf. View attachment 8607915View attachment 8607916View attachment 8607917View attachment 8607918
Nice.