Question - I'm looking for a T3X Compact Tactical Left Handed Stainless Steel 6.5 creedmoor in 24''. Having an odd time finding an online retailer in the states that has one in stock.. Any leads?
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This is all I came up with. Not SS, only 20”:
www.eurooptic.com
Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 20" 1:8" Bbl Left Hand Rifle JRTXC482
Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 20" 1:8" Bbl Left Hand Rifle JRTXC482 For Sale
Does Tikka import rifles into the US every 6 months or some such like CZ does? Curious as to the tough availability stateside.This is all I came up with. Not SS, only 20”:
Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 20" 1:8" Bbl Left Hand Rifle JRTXC482
Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 20" 1:8" Bbl Left Hand Rifle JRTXC482 For Sale
Pushes me into the camp of a 20'' or a B14 HMR @ 22'' to get me closer to 24''. Prefer the Tikka as I already have the 22lr Tikka and it's a smooth shooter.
No rush to picking either rifle up, so maybe I'll just sideline and look around for the 24''. Thanks all for the heads-up on it.
One of our customers used his 20" stainless CTR in 6.5CM at the Guardian PR in Ireland 2018.. They shot clays in the sand bank at 1200yds, he hit a few with Hornady factory ammo. 20" is by far not ideal but gets there.
edi
Why are there Tikka T3 pre-fits in 300 prc when the long actions will not accept such the magnum length cartridge? Is it for single feed?
Anyone feed short action cartridges from a long action magazine? Are you experiencing any feeding problems from the round above sliding backwards against the back of the mag from pulling the bolt back? Are the magazines with the blocking plates in the rear more reliable?
as in original T3 Lite plastic magazines? I tried using the 30-06 version for a 308 and it wasn't ideal. Not very reliable if I remember right.
edi
I haven’t done what you’re asking, but its an easy/cheap fix to run right. Swap the plastic bolt stop (might not even have to do this) and get a tikka mag (plastic or other) with the block for short action calibers. They’re all the same magazines with different length blocks
For about $50 you’re in business.
I mean 6.5 creeds feeding from a t3x mag intended for 270win in my specific situation.
Thinking of doing this but wanted to see if that will actually help feeding reliability.
Have fed 6CompMatch from an L series mag no issues I can remember, 2.80 oal
Obviously pushing for the LRH but it was downright impressive how well the stock tikka's shoot
The stainless had no improvements or very minimal if you ask me. But yes, in general, a quality bedding surface that mates up properly can only make a rifle shoot the same or better.
Agreed but it’s clearly a sell on the LRH. Nothing wrong with that i have one, great stock. But acting like it’s so uncomfortable to shoot a stock tikka is just kinda laughable
Ok I'm glad you noticed it too haha. I didn't wanna say it. But it looks like he tried rushing the 100 yard groups with the factory stock to throw the group and then was surprised when it accidentally shot really good with the stainless lol. Clearly trying to promote the aftermarket stock.
Yup haha i thought it was a bit much of an oversell. We all know tikkas and sakos shoot.
The best part is if you pay attention the non stainless one wasn't seated in the stock correctly and the recoil lug was out of the slot! And it still shot very well.
What he proved is that he doesn't really hold to the basics of marksmanship. With his aim, I am actually surprised he hit at 500 yards.
For instance, using lower rings would have helped with his cheeck weld. Factory stocks have steel recoil lugs. It is very possible to attach, if not a full arca rail, at least a section in front of the magazine.
We all know Tikkas shoot. And the only advantage of stainless is that it cleans easier and less prone to corrosion.
What if I told you, most of the ‘non stainless’ models are actually stainless steel underneath the cerakote.
Well, I'd say that is normally mentioned in the spec sheet.
If not, it would be really stupid from Sako side as stainless steel models are normally more expensive.
If not, it would be really stupid from Sako side as stainless steel models are normally more expensive.
Agreed, the Cerakoted models are indeed usually stainless underneath, but the black steel-looking models are typically regular carbon steel.
A good way to tell is price.
Its normally not mentioned, even on the ones painted black (usually just say ‘black’ for finish).
For instance, all the roughtechs and veils are stainless according to tikka. And without being a metallurgist, I think even more of the ones painted black are also all stainless. Ctr, TacA1, etc
Im convinced they specifically try to make it difficult to find out because they get a premium for the ‘stainless’.
Corner a tikka rep and ask them straight up.
The truly blued barrels are easily identifiable and not painted.
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Considering factory Tikkas are already accurate it seems like the answer to the question is fairly obvious....
Interesting just how many of these YouTube idiots are pushing/using Arken scopes, they must have a very generous affiliate program.
300 PRC is a large magnum action. Might as well think of .338 Lapua feeding if using heavy, long, high BC bullets.
I've see nplanety of folks running 7MM -08 in the Long action magazines with zero feeding issues. They change to a long action bolt stop as well to feed the longer heavier bullets.
All T3 actions are actually long actions they just come with a SA bolt stop and magazines and associated bottom metal for the SA calibers. Simple change out of parts.
Just bought my first Tikka, chambered in .22-250. Picked it up on Wednesday, had the barrel cut to 18” and threaded on Thursday, and my hunting partner & I doubled up this pair on Friday.
It’s a Team Wendy carbon bump with dual iRay RH25’s. That’s my partner’s setup, I just run a handheld Pulsar Telos XP50.
If you had your choice of the xp telos or a helmet with one rh25 which would you choose?
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