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Problem With AAC Halcyon

Longshot231

Four Star General
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Mar 8, 2018
    12,094
    43,043
    I do not have a good feeling about this suppressor that I picked up yesterday. Compare the two photos below. The top one is from the https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/04/25/aac-halcyon/

    It is how the rear end cap (AAC calls it a lock ring) and other components in the rear assembly are supposed to look after disassembled. The bottom photo is from my suppressor. Note how the entire rear end (I will call it the lock ring and thread adapter assembly) came out of the main body tube.

    I had problems with the lock ring not coming off. The lock ring is the left most part in the photo immediately below. After initially trying it in a padded vise and using a strap wrench, I soaked it in kroil over night.

    Then the entire process with the padded vice and strap wrench was repeated without success. So I put it in a freezer then heated the lock ring up with a blow torch. Didn't work.

    Between repeated attempts I called AAC and nobody would answer the phone. I left two voice mail messages and didn't get a reply. A few minutes before typing this post, I sent a 2nd email to them.

    After one last attempt with the padded vice and strap wrench I got some movement in the rear end cap assembly. The entire assembly unscrewed from the main body tube as you can see in the 2nd photo.

    Some might say not to worry about it and just shoot it.

    I don't want to accept that. Inside the thread adapter, is supposed to be an O-ring. You can see it in the illustrations in the manual linked below. For the amount of money that I paid for this, I should not have any problems like this.

    I'll follow up with what AAC has to say if I ever get a reply. Has anyone else had any problems with this suppressor?

    https://advanced-armament.com/wp-content/uploads/Halcyon.pdf

    1738176305404.png


    IMG_4450.jpg
     
    It looks like one picture is the end cap end and the other is the locking ring end. Are you working on the ends with the barrel threads?
    Yes. What you are looking at, in the second photo, is the assembly that screws onto the barrel.

    In other words, everything that you see disassembled in the first photo is what is stuck together in the 2nd photo. I am not confusing which end of the suppressor to work with.

    Take a look at the right most part in the first photo (part D). That is what they call the thread adapter bore. It is threaded on the other end (unseen) into the main rear tube (part E). And it is that thread adapter bore which is stuck inside the left lock ring (left most part in the first photo) with all the intervening parts inside.

    A picture is worth a thousand words. Hopefully the picture below explains everything. Parts A,B,C and D came out together when removed from part E. I can't get them separated.

    AAC Halcyon Problem.jpg
     
    Your part E looks like a front module, not the rear tube the lock ring should go into.
    If someone tried to assemble it incorrectly, who knows what is wedged in where.

    Can you post a picture with all parts? Show the engraving on the tube, that is the rear tube
     
    Your part E looks like a front module, not the rear tube the lock ring should go into.
    If someone tried to assemble it incorrectly, who knows what is wedged in where.

    Can you post a picture with all parts? Show the engraving on the tube, that is the rear tube
    I can assure you that the tube that you are looking at is the rear tube. The rear tube is the longer of both tubes. The rear tube also has flats on it. The front tube is round. I don't want to show the serial number online.

    I got the locking ring and thread adapter assembly soaking in Kroil now. Unless I hear from AAC, I will leave it in the Kroil for about a week then put it in the padded vice and try to break it apart again with the strap wrench.

    Here's an AAC video of the suppressor. Looks great in concept. At 3:13, they move close up to the disassembly on the table. Parts A, B and C are at the extreme right in the foreground with parts D and E standing next to them. Note that part D is inside of part E.

    At 4:20 he picks up the rear tube (part E) and talks about the thread adapter bore (part D) inside it. Then he will insert the thread adapter (part C) and install the wave washer (part B). Finally he will screw on the locking ring (part A) on the thread adapter bore (part D) which is still sticking out of the rear tube.

    I hope this is a little better than the picture.



    At 2:45 in this next video he starts talking about disassembly and cleaning. You might want to slow it down but at 3:01 you will see part E on the table on the left side of the screen. Stop the video there and you will see the thread adapter bore (part D) inside of part E.

    He picks it up with his left hand then inserts the thread adapter (part C) with his right hand. You won't see him put the wave washer (part B) on the thread adapter (part C). Nor will you see him screw on the locking ring (par A) on the thread adapter bore (part D).

    Both of these videos should be proof enough that this suppressor has problems. I'm suspecting that perhaps the locking ring might have been cross-threaded during assembly at the factory. Or perhaps this was assembled without the wave washer. That could be enough to get this thing to lock up.



    Did you try tapping it on the table with the threads facing up to see if it comes loose?
    I did do that but after letting it soak in Kroil some more, will try it again.

    This probably sounds harsh but based on the fact that this can is brand new, never fired and already having a problem as well as nobody answering the phone at AAC, I cannot recommend buying their products.
     
    Update 1/30/2025 at 10:38 EST. Made several phone calls and still nobody answers the telephone. Left voicemail messages to same. I sent an email to a Mr. Johnson who is the director of inside sales. Let's see if he responds.
     
    Update 1/30/2025 10:57 AM EST. I learned that AAC was is owned by JJE Holdings Company. So I got a phone number to call off of their website: 803-567-6400


    I called the number and it was Palmetto State Armory. Using the voice menu, I selected the option for "all other." Guess what! I had to leave a voice mail.

    I have never dealt with PSA but what I've heard hasn't been good. It sounds like there is nobody able or willing to answer a phone there either.
     
    If you used a credit card start the refund process almost guaranteed to get action from the seller. Not saying return it, just light a fire.
     
    Update 1/30/2025 11:00 AM EST. I received a reply to my email message from Mr. Johnson which said:

    "Sorry you are having an issue with the recent acquisition. The team was at SHOT then all became sick with the Flu. I am just getting back to the office.

    I have sent your email to the CS department who won’t be in until tomorrow. They will get the RMA issued for the return."
     
    Update 1/30/2025 11:00 AM EST. I received a reply to my email message from Mr. Johnson which said:

    "Sorry you are having an issue with the recent acquisition. The team was at SHOT then all became sick with the Flu. I am just getting back to the office.

    I have sent your email to the CS department who won’t be in until tomorrow. They will get the RMA issued for the return."
    Shotshow causes this every year. For many vendors it is all hands to the show.
     
    Just to confirm the issue, you need to separate parts A and D (B and C are captured inside).
    1738267084414.png

    Looks like a job for a strap wrench and padded vice jaws. Hopefully those threads were clean and just tight; and there isnt blasting sand or galling etc jamming them up.
     
    Just to confirm the issue, you need to separate parts A and D (B and C are captured inside).
    View attachment 8605056
    Looks like a job for a strap wrench and padded vice jaws. Hopefully those threads were clean and just tight; and there isnt blasting sand or galling etc jamming them up.
    You are correct; Parts A and D need to be separated. B and C are inside.

    I tried the padded vice and strap wrench but it wouldn't budge.
     
    Update 1/30/2025 9:10 PM EST. I got several email messages with an RMA and Shipping label. They said that once they get the suppressor, they are looking at a 3-5 week turnaround time.
     
    Just a note, I’m not sure the suppressor is supposed to unthread where the OP’s did. The instructions don’t show it, and mine sure doesn’t seem to want to.

    And, that wave spring is hot garbage. I replaced that spring with a 5/8” accuwasher.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: AMGtuned
    Just a note, I’m not sure the suppressor is supposed to unthread where the OP’s did. The instructions don’t show it, and mine sure doesn’t seem to want to.
    You are correct. It wasn't supposed to unthread there. I was trying to remove the lock ring (part A in the photos) but it wouldn't budge. The thread adapter bore (part D) came unscrewed from the rear tube (part E).

    When I got them apart it looked like parts D and E had Loctite applied to the threads.

    It sounds like you have a Halcyon. Have you ever removed the lock ring to expose the wave washer and the thread adapter?
     
    Attempted to contact AAC multiple times (phone calls and email. After hearing crickets from AAC trying to get a baffle strike repaired, Scotts Silencer Service came to the rescue. They repaired the suppressor, changed the thread pitch from 11mmx1 to 5/8x24 and even cerakoted it. Scott's Silencer Service repair was excellent. The customer service is outstanding.
     
    Have you tried threading it onto your barrel and then grabbing the end cap and unthread it. The threaded insert should be seated against the barrel and twisting the endcap to unthread it is the same direction as threading the insert onto the barrel. It should break loose and don't forget to use anti-seize on the barrel threads to make getting the insert off.

    Or, you go to your local nut and bolt store and pick up a bolt, assume 1/2"-28, and jam nut and washer if you want. Thread the jam nut on the bolt, slide the washer on and thread your thread adapter onto the bolt. Tighten the jam nut against the washer. This will lock the threads of the bolt to the adapter threads. Put a wrench on the bolt head and then unthread your end cap. Once it is loose you simply back off the jam nut.
     
    Last edited:
    A little visual aid.

    View attachment 8606479
    View attachment 8606481

    The washer I used was the thick shim from a muzzle alignment shim set.
    That looks like a great idea but I sent it back to AAC after they provided me with an RMA and shipping label.

    According to the tracking information, AAC should receive it on 2/3/25. They told me that there is a 3-5 week turn around.
     
    I got the suppressor back today. Here's the email that I sent them:

    Gentlemen,

    I got my suppressor back today. Thank you for the fast shipping.

    Inside the box was a post-it note which informed me that the rear cap was a reverse thread. In other words, left to tighten and right to loosen.

    I wished that I had known that before going through all of the frustration of getting some help with your product. I must admit that I questioned myself upon seeing the post-it note thinking that I was a real idiot for missing that little detail.

    With that said, I referred back to the owner's manual, again, from your website which is linked below for your convenience and to ensure that we are all on the same page.

    https://advanced-armament.com/wp-content/uploads/Halcyon.pdf

    I would like to draw your attention to page 8, step 2 which says:

    "Unscrew and remove the lock ring from the main tube body. See figure 10."

    Note that the instruction does not indicate the direction to turn the lock ring. Figure 10, below shows the direction of turn to unscrew the lock ring is counter-clockwise which indicates that is a right hand thread on the lock ring.

    1738701331232.png


    I don't like to tell people how to run their business but I would like to make two suggestions:

    1 - If your entire company is away for Shot Show then put something on your website or voicemail greeting letting us know that nobody will be available for that time period.

    2 - Revise your manual to show the correct direction of turn for the lock ring and put that information in the text.

    Have a nice day.
     
    Just checked. The rear cap (lock ring?) is 100% right hand thread on my halcyon.
    I haven’t got a reply from my email yet. They obviously changed the direction of the thread on subsequent versions.

    That would have been nice to know. Perhaps an engraved arrow on the back of the end cap to indicate the direction of turn or even a revised manual would have helped.

    Some companies wonder why their customers are upset with them.
     
    Just a note, I’m not sure the suppressor is supposed to unthread where the OP’s did.

    Looks like AAC has learned nothing in the 10+ years since I got my Ti-Rant which the booster assembly completely came out of the can. AAC said "send it back or just red loctite it back in place because thats what we will do when we get it"... WTF...

    i swear the suppressor industry is one of the more jankier sides of the gun industry.
     
    Looks like AAC has learned nothing in the 10+ years since I got my Ti-Rant which the booster assembly completely came out of the can. AAC said "send it back or just red loctite it back in place because thats what we will do when we get it"... WTF...

    i swear the suppressor industry is one of the more jankier sides of the gun industry.
    They also know that they got you over a barrel. They know the end users have to wait a long time to get the suppressor and have to endure the extra costs. So it's a lifetime investment.

    They know that you are stuck with it and their attitude is that you will have to live with it regardless.

    All my other rimfire suppressors are made by SIG. They have been really good to me.

    I had some baffle strikes on two of their suppressors which was my fault entirely. I called them about it and offered to pay for the replacement baffles.

    They said that they would take care of it. They sent me a shipping label and I got the cans back within a couple of weeks without it costing me anything.

    To AAC's credit, they did send me an overnight shipping label and they got it back to me in three days.