About $350, the Sidekick only needs a USB-C connector, no battery cell or cap system
Night Vision Custom USB power supply options for Thermal and NV
- Thread starter CoryT
- Start date
Fischer split cable for DTNVS/E-COTI on a Nocturn Bat Pack, also available as a Lemo connector version. Split cable to power a EoTech Clip-IR/ Vortex 4000 LRF from USB. Lemo cable and battery adapter for the IR Patrol series. All plugs can be 90 degree or straight, voltage regulated if required for use with a USB pack . All Lemo, Fischer and DC type plugs are supported, as well as USB connections. Battery adapters and caps are 3D printed in engineering tough resins or Nylon.
The cords would work, but the RH25 on the left side would need to be flipped over using the Iray AC53 obverse shoe. This would put the connector facing outboard, as opposed to directly into the side of the right hand unit.
Hey Cory, do you have any capability to do custom remote cables like for NGALs, Wilcox Ergocto devices, etc?
With the proprietary connectors and keypad circuitry, those are outside what I can do.
Roger that. Pretty frustrated with lack of certain available NGAL switches and the remote that comes with the new MRF is retarded. 10” too long and no right angle plug.
Hi Cory. I have a L3 PVS-14 (right eye) and a RH25 (left eye using the AC53) that I would like to run off an external battery pack. Would you be able to create a cable(s) for that? If so, could you let me know about how much that would cost?
I
I can make a splitter system for that, though the PVS-14 runtime is such that it's hardly required. Message me with length you want to the split, then length to the pack. I'll also need the type of battery pack, a USB pack, AB Nightvision GOBP, Argus, L3, Nocturn Bat Pack, other. complete system will run about $450-500, RH25/USB cable only round $150
New cable setup to run a Manticore-R with E-COTI off either a standard battery pack or a USB battery. QD on the splitter so it can mix/match at will.
I'm new to snipers hide so I do t know how to contact you on here. I have a lwts clip on thermal that I would like a battery pack made for.
Email at [email protected]. Depending on the actual version of LTWS, I should be able to make one up.
My man hit it out of the park on my new USB cable. OEM ECOTI connector to USB using OEM donor connector from PVS31D splitter. And he set it up to put out the right voltage to the pin outs to keep the battery level from bitching at me! Cable is exactly how I envisioned it. 10 out of 10!
Super fast turnaround especially considering I had to source and ship another PVS31D cable/pack to get the pin outs and voltage. Great work Cory, thanks! Looking forward to getting out and using it. Still messing around with wire routing, but man am I pleased with it.
Super fast turnaround especially considering I had to source and ship another PVS31D cable/pack to get the pin outs and voltage. Great work Cory, thanks! Looking forward to getting out and using it. Still messing around with wire routing, but man am I pleased with it.
Attachments
I literally had been designing one of these in my head for a while now for my UANVB-katana’s but I’m thinking because the battery cap itself (the surefire clone) is the on/off button, there would need to be an additional on/off switch added into the cable somewhere along the way back to the battery pack. Which actually wouldn’t be such a bad problem considering I sometimes fumble around finding the normal power button, having one on the side of my helmet instead would be actually much easier.
You think this would be possible to do with the Non-LEMO CR123 powered UANVB-katana’s?
You think this would be possible to do with the Non-LEMO CR123 powered UANVB-katana’s?
I literally had been designing one of these in my head for a while now for my UANVB-katana’s but I’m thinking because the battery cap itself (the surefire clone) is the on/off button, there would need to be an additional on/off switch added into the cable somewhere along the way back to the battery pack. Which actually wouldn’t be such a bad problem considering I sometimes fumble around finding the normal power button, having one on the side of my helmet instead would be actually much easier.
That can be done, though I don't have that thread pattern cap done up yet. So, I'd need to borrow a Katana for a week or so, or I'd need the cap specs so I can model one up on Solidworks.
That can be done, though I don't have that thread pattern cap done up yet. So, I'd need to borrow a Katana for a week or so, or I'd need the cap specs so I can model one up on Solidworks.
Similar threads
