When I posted that the other day about the High vs Low, I had just called MH and asked John in sales, he put me on hold, asked one of their AI armorers (wasn’t Adam, he wasn’t working that day) and that is the info I got. He said the armorer checked his current manual and that’s what it said.
I know I used 35” lbs on my High rail on my AT and worked just fine, with a drop of Blue 243 on each SHCS.
I know I used 35” lbs on my High rail on my AT and worked just fine, with a drop of Blue 243 on each SHCS.
Thaks for that information. Got the rail today. Stay tuned for the install or me crying for help...
Thaks for that information. Got the rail today. Stay tuned for the install or me crying for help...
Post barrel clean and disassembly re-zero.
He’s dead, Jim.Thaks for that information. Got the rail today. Stay tuned for the install or me crying for help...
I see you are doing research into what real awms look like sir
I talked to AINA about switching to torx screws a while ago and what I was told was that previously the AT low rail (probably the high rail too but I don't know for sure) used countersunk 2.5mm hex screws and sometime in 2023 they upgraded everything to 3mm hex socket cap screws and made the corresponding changes in the rail (P/N 26981 vs P/N 26980). I would guess this also led to a change in the torque spec as I used 35in*lbs for the old 2.5mm screws and they held fine but rounded out as soon as I tried to remove them, thank God for the left handed drill bit.
Yea you gotta really heat up the factory ones and my experience is like yours that's def a single use screw
I was wondering about the PN. My rail is 26980, and the low rail available today is 26981. Could not find the difference noted anywhere. Thanks!
Glad you posted that. I have the older rail. Any advice about how to properly heat them up for removal?
Holding a soldering iron on the screw heads works well from what I hear.
FWIW I've always used 35 in-lb with a dot of blue loctite on the AI action rail screws, and I've disassebled it a few times without issue
I don't heat the screw as I want the threads hot, not necessarily the screw heads, especially if I am trying to not soften them. I heat the whole assembly gently with a propane torch until it is nice and hot to the touch. Let it sit a bit and take the screws out then.
Make sure it’s a fat soldering tip, the super thin ones don’t do it. Heat gun/hair dryer and torch work too but aren’t as delicate.
#We’reAllGreenDownHere
#SandySageSands
Nice - is that one of the Irish ones that were exported to the States a few years ago?
Looking at the prices in the US currently...holy crap...
I am taking bids ladys and gentlemen
I am taking bids ladys and gentlemen
Looking at the prices in the US currently...holy crap...
I am taking bids ladys and gentlemen
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tree fiddy!!!
That is one hell of a rifle, love the bolts that are not fluted over the whole length. My AW is the same, my awsm unfortunately has the large flutes.
Those price tags are not reasonable anymore honestly. Would instantly buy that rifle though if i had the money
Man, i see y'alls rifles all nice kept, clean, neat. Here I am everything scratched, spray painted, all over the place . I need to tidy up.
. I need to tidy up.
My Coopermatch conversion looking a little naked in the snow without its bolt or supressor in the Scottish highlands a couple of weeks ago.
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Nice! You can get a spare IMUNS rail from Sporting Services to complete the look. They send you the wrong screws though, (at least they did for me), you need 10-24x5/8 socket heads.
Looking at the prices in the US currently...holy crap...
I am taking bids ladys and gentlemen
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I have two folding AIAWs and gosh I'm tempted to sell. Of course one is my first baby.
My two Coopermatch single shots. One (95 AT) has the Palmamaster inscription, the other doesn't (96 AT). The 95 AT one came as just an action with no trigger shoe. No plans for it and I didn't pay much, so it will just stay that way for now. The 96 AT came in an AE Clarke (English gunsmith) prone stock designed for Coopermatches with a virtually brand new 30" Border barrel. Might use it for Palma/TR shooting, but I have a few other AI Palma/TR rifles anyway, so just part of the collection for now.
You can file the corner of a part of the mag follower too. I have a mag with and without the mod. I'll see if I can get a pic tonight
It's that way on some axsr mags too. File the corner of the follower is you don't like it.
Thank you all for the information. I guess I got lucky on the AXSR mags I have.
I'll plan on just filing the follower down a little bit.
I'll plan on just filing the follower down a little bit.
Maybe the rifle will work properly if you put a S&B on it
With an IMUNS mount on an AW, how do you pull the bipod swivel far enough out to get the sling plate out?
Remove the 8mm roll pin and bipod stud. With straight blade screwdriver wedged between the spigot and fore end frame (using the round bipod stud opening), push the spigot forward. A rubber disc between the spigot and sling mount holds the sling mount in place and keeps it from rattling.
What reason is there that the Imuns for the AW doesn't fit the AT? To me those pieces look similar enough to work.
Having just gone through this:
1. The AW imuns extends too far into the chassis and blocks the use of the small forwardmost skin screw by about 1/4”-1/8”(not really an issue and easy fix if you cut some clearance)
2. The AW imuns is not tapped for QD cups
3. This seems to be back and forth, but a factory AI barrel is not free floated in an AT with the AW imuns because the top piece of the IMUNS ends up clamping down onto the barrel. I had some 2mm spacers 3d printed to fit the form of the IMUNS and no longer have this issue.
