Awesome suppressor muzzle brake front end attachment by Recoilx
- Thread starter Huskydriver
- Start date
Just did a test in the backyard for this. Using an 11 pound x47 with a 20” Bart CF and 123’s running right at 2800 and shooting standing off a RRS tripod with the clamp fully locked out, I was hoping to measure the difference in my reticle after shooting with and without the brake. The HNT has an aftermarket ARCA lock rail installed so there is no shifting of the rifle in the clamp. The can is a Dead Air TiXC.
I first tried to measure reticle jump by shooting free recoil with the brake attached. That didn’t work well. The whole tripod rocked back and the reticle settled about 11 mils high and 2 mils to the left. I think the tripod could have also shifted position in the dirt. I don’t shoot free recoil so I abandoned this approach and just shot how I normally do off the tripod, which is with moderate pressure on the grip, moderate pressure against my shoulder pocket, light pressure against the cheek pad with my chin weld, and my left hand resting lightly on the left side leg about waist high.
Shooting this way, without the brake attached and with the standard 30 cal endcap on, the reticle consistently came to rest between 2.5 and 4 mils over the center of the target, and about 1.5-2 mils to the left.
With the brake attached, shooting the same way, the reticle was consistently coming to rest between 1.5 and 2.5 mils above the target and around 1 mil to the left. So maybe an improvement of 40% give or take. This was using 5 shots each way.
The most difficult part of this was getting the tripod clamp locked down while maintaining a center hold on the target in the rifles natural point of aim. The rifle is not balanced perfectly, with the fulcrum about 1” rearward of the clamped location on the tripod. It took several attempts on each test to get this perfect before shooting each shot. Normally I will accept a mil or so from being dead center after locking the clamp and just “muscle” the reticle to center with light pressure and send it, usually with good results.
Hope this helps.
Whenever they come back in stock for the Omega I’m going to get one. If no one has filmed it by then I’ll get my hands on a Triggercam and get some footage and will post it here. Not that I don’t believe you guys but I’ve been disappointed before even with rave reviews on the forum. Sometimes people like to embellish their results to justify their expense or out of being a fan boy. Seen that a time or two over the years.
I completely understand that. This only costs $185 so no justification needed on my end. It would not have been an expensive loss like some other things I have purchased and then quickly sold, like several rifle scopes. I am really excited about this brake for the next barrel (6.5 PRC) as I think it will be even more effective. But again, this is an 11 pound setup. Might not make much difference on a 20 pound 6mm.
Yeah sorry didn’t mean to sound like I was speaking about you directly. I mean in general with end users.
Ran this on a silencerco scythe in a one day match at Altus yesterday. 6 creed with 115 DTACs at 2900 out of a 18lb rifle. While I don’t have any quantifiable way to explain the recoil reduction, I definitely saw a lot more with the recoilx vs straight suppressor. It was the best I’ve seen impacts, misses, and trace in a long time.
The brake didn’t come loose over 10 stages even after hitting it several times on props.
Overall I continue to be impressed with this and I think it’s money very well spent.
The brake didn’t come loose over 10 stages even after hitting it several times on props.
Overall I continue to be impressed with this and I think it’s money very well spent.
Has anyone compared this SxS to the anchor brake on the Omega 300? I have a LPR in 300 Win Mag that weighs 9lbs suppressed and ready to hunt. The anchor brake makes a HUGE difference in muzzle jump and felt recoil. Wondering if the Recoil X would have even better reduction?
I did this last weekend. It’s a noticeable difference in recoil.
That’s amazing because the anchor brake tamed quite a bit.
When shooting from a bipod and using a flat end cap, the rifle jumped left quite a bit and I had to pickup the rifle and move it back to the right to be back on target. With the anchor brake, I could see the splash on steel past 400. If this is better, it just might be worth the $.
When shooting from a bipod and using a flat end cap, the rifle jumped left quite a bit and I had to pickup the rifle and move it back to the right to be back on target. With the anchor brake, I could see the splash on steel past 400. If this is better, it just might be worth the $.
On a 223 or dasher it might not be worth it over the factory asr anchor brake but for a win mag moving much more gas I think it would be very appreciable.
While not a straight up 300WM I did try my RecoilX, Hybrid46M, on a 7-300WM (just as it sounds, a 300WM necked down to .284) shooting a Berger 180gr Hybrid at 3160fps average. I also have an Omega 300 that I have used on the rifle with the anchor brake and there is no comparison, I was actually able to keep the target in scope using the RecoilX brake on the Hybrid 46, that simply doesn't happen with the Omega.
I will say this, I shot first without the brake on the Hybrid 46, just the normal endcap. My buddy was about 6-8' behind me when I shot, without earpro, and no issues. I then put the muzzle brake on the end of the 46 and shot again... this time my friend was regretting poor life choices in not wearing earpro, and the brake DEFINITELY redirects a significant amount of gas to the sides, just as it is designed to do. Now the concussion is nowhere even remotely close to what a pure muzzle brake is, but it is no longer hearing safe and that was with the Hybrid 46M set up in the long configuration, will be louder still in the short configuration with the brake.
Which brings me to another point.... I had a mild baffle strike on the last round I shot out of the 7-300. I noticed that the bullet struck the paper @100 yards approximately 2-3" low whereas this rifle normally prints around .5 moa(ish). I didn't think a whole lot of it at the time, but when I got home and started looking I found where the bullet had barely rubbed the finish off the 12 o'clock position on the brake. At this point I broke out the rods from McMaster-Carr (if you want an alignment rod order the correct diameter W1 or A2 rod from McMaster-Carr, they are certified to .005" runout and cost between $5-$15 for a 3' rod as compared to $100-$200 for the same thing from a "gun company") and found that the end of the brake was a bit low from centerline. I have never had a strike on the rifle previously, and didn't even think to check for a .284 bullet coming out of a brake designed for a .30 bullet, lesson learned. It looks like the threads on the end of my barrel are just ever so slightly off which is really amplified by the length of the Hybrid 46M in long configuration, and then the RecoilX added on top of that. In addition, when you screw the brake on there is just a tiny bit of wiggle room as it is locked down, call it a tolerance, with which you can *slightly* adjust its exact placement. Super insignificant amount of possible movement, but was just enough when I put it back on the front of the suppressor while testing the difference of the brake on/off that I hit it. More of a rubbed it, but still, worth noting that it happened. All of this is to say, if you are using the brake in conjunction with a longer suppressor, I would check the alignment.... even if you have never had an issue with that configuration before.
Overall I do like it, and it is certainly effective. For me this is a MUCH better option than having to purchase a whole new suppressor i.e. Area 419 Maverick or similar, and I absolutely despise shooting with bare muzzle brakes.
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