Barrel vises and cerakote
- Thread starter 2010Ruger
- Start date
Fine, if you put something in there to avoid direct contact. I've found torn paper grocery bags to work the best. Didn't like masking tape.
I use drywall tape around the barrel and it both protects the barrel and prevents slipping in my experience
I’ve used drywall tape and had it mar slightly. I’m now a fan of leather. You can buy strips on amazon for $10. Also, some powered Rosen on the first couple inches of the inside of the leather.
- Nov 3, 2010
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Plus one for leather, I keep a roll in the shop for various things including this task
Sac vise + drywall tape is the best solution out there for changing barrels. Highly recommend
personally I skip the coating, it can look good but I go through barrels fast enough it's just a waste of money. I've given up on protecting the barrel from the vice also, I was sick of peeling masking tape off (drywall tape would work well). I don't care if it gets a couple marks from swapping it, it's gonna be a tomato stake in 10 months anyways.
Hunting rifle is a different story, it's coated to match but it will last years and I don't change it around ever. set it and forget it.
Hunting rifle is a different story, it's coated to match but it will last years and I don't change it around ever. set it and forget it.
Yup. Unless it's a super low volume barrel like a hunting gun, cerakoting is a waste of time and money.
It's very hard to protect the finish even with good preparation and tools. I have used leather , painters tape, cardstock, wood bushings and a few others with just about every barrel vise out there and its not worth the hassle.
It's very hard to protect the finish even with good preparation and tools. I have used leather , painters tape, cardstock, wood bushings and a few others with just about every barrel vise out there and its not worth the hassle.
Maybe but some of us still indulge and I have yet to scare the finish when using leather.
I didn't have a viper but a similar type of barrel vise and it jacked up the cerakote on a barrel and needed to be redone. Used craft paper putting it on and leather when I took it off and both times the finish was damaged. I followed the recommended torque specs...maybe I did something dumb that I didn't realize or my torque wrench was way off, idk.
Bought a SAC Bravo...no problems
Bought a SAC Bravo...no problems
I switched to using the Aero SOLUS vice that uses the aluminum inserts like the SAC. Using just the inserts alone causes no damage. The Viper Vise with the sharper V block edges, I used suede from Hobby Lobby. The Viper would still cut through the suede if same piece was used more than twice.
I also think Cerakote is just an expensive paint that can withstand solvents. Seems to scratch just looking at it. I've numerous Cerakoted items from numerous brands and it's all the same. Cerakote durability vids and claims are BS showing the coating withstanding thousands of revolutions of scratching before getting through the coating.
I also think Cerakote is just an expensive paint that can withstand solvents. Seems to scratch just looking at it. I've numerous Cerakoted items from numerous brands and it's all the same. Cerakote durability vids and claims are BS showing the coating withstanding thousands of revolutions of scratching before getting through the coating.
Until that rifle slides down a rock, like what happened to my cerakoted hunting barrel
If I was to do it all over again, I would skip the cerakote even on my hunting rifle/barrel.
I use a viper vice in which I put a few layers of hockey tape on the jaws. Has worked well enough. The biggest factor is tightening down the vice enough so the barrel doesn't slip - barrels with more aggressively tapered contours may require more attention here.
A strap of leather is likely an even better solution than hockey tape.
A strap of leather is likely an even better solution than hockey tape.
Toilet paper / paper towels rolls work well also, been doing it for years without marring the finish.
Yeah the secret is to tighten it down to ensure the barrel does not rotate or come into vice barrel contact. Mine has 1/4 inch leather cut out to fit and protect the barrel. I formed it by really cranking down and letting the barrel become a mold for the leather.
first chip you put in it hurts a little, after that idgaf.Until that rifle slides down a rock, like what happened to my cerakoted hunting barrel
If I was to do it all over again, I would skip the cerakote even on my hunting rifle/barrel.
I could give or take the coating on hunting barrel but I can at understand it.
Of the limited pieces of good advice my father told me growing up...I distinctly recall the one he said, "Anytime you get something new, find a spot somewhere out of sight and hit it with a hammer. Then when dings & scratches show up you won't be as bothered, because it was already dinged!"
I'm one of those that considers a rifle a tool - don't really care if they get dinged up.
But watching my rifle slide down a rock face and deeply scratching a new cerakoted barrel was rough
I just covered the scratches in black sharpie and carried on. But it was a good reminder why cerakoting a barrel is a waste of money. If you want a pretty museum piece - cerakote it. If you want a tool, just leave it stainless.
Never done it intentionally, but I distinctly remember my first new car (cheap 83 Chevy Cavalier). Was in the dealer lot transferring stuff from old (74 Vega) to new opened the vega's door right into the side of the new one, waited until I got home to throw a temper tantrum.Of the limited pieces of good advice my father told me growing up...I distinctly recall the one he said, "Anytime you get something new, find a spot somewhere out of sight and hit it with a hammer. Then when dings & scratches show up you won't be as bothered, because it was already dinged!"
LET THE RUSTO FLOOOOOOWWWWWWWI'm one of those that considers a rifle a tool - don't really care if they get dinged up.
But watching my rifle slide down a rock face and deeply scratching a new cerakoted barrel was rough
I just covered the scratches in black sharpie and carried on. But it was a good reminder why cerakoting a barrel is a waste of money. If you want a pretty museum piece - cerakote it. If you want a tool, just leave it stainless.
I agree that cerakote is just expensive paint, I like parkerizing or if it is a stainless barrel I just sandblast it also the fellow that said he doesn't finish his match barrels because they only make it 10 months is right on, one of the last ones I put on was chrome moly and I didn't put any finish on it and everybody thought it was stainless and it was dead in a year and came off.
Yep barrels are consumables that serve a purpose and get replaced. I didn’t used to finish ( flute and coat) them I do now. It adds about 30% to cost but I like it and in the big scheme of thing that is nothing.
