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Tikka T3 Thread

Great write up. What kind of barrel are you putting on?
I have a Proof carbon 24" in 6.5 coming in the mail. Don't get me wrong, the Tikka barrels are about the best out of the box for many reasons however they are a little slow, the Proof will be a little faster, and it will lighten things up a tad.
 
I took off another Tikka barrel from a Tac A1 action. Minimal fuss, the key is prep work, patients, and torque.

1. Prep work: Once action and barrel are removed from the chassis hit the barrel joint inside the action and the outside of the action with penetrating oil like Kroil or WD40. Have the right tools, a Tikka action wrench is not enough to get a barrel off, for that job you need a wheeler action wrench that has flat sides. Make sure you got a good barrel vise and some rosin powder.

2. Patients: I like to sit the barrel vertically in a sink and let the oil soak in for days, turn the barrel the opposite direction and soak again for a day or two, let gravity help that oil seep into that joint, hit it several times with oil to make sure it's penetrated. Once the barrel is removed from the action you will notice the threads saturated in oil, it really gets in there if you give it time.

3. Torque: Once you are ready to take the barrel off make sure that the barrel is really snug in the barrel vise, use some cardboard as shims to avoid marring, and rosin sprinkled around will add to the grip the vice has on the barrel, you do not want slipping. Some extended heavy steel pipe that fits over the wheeler handle will be crucial and add to the torque you need in order to remove the barrel, i'm guessing it takes about 225-250 ft lbs to remove a tikka barrel, just a hunch. So make sure to have that cheater bar/pipe to add to that torque. Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though, card stock or business cards can be put in between the wrench flats and the action to avoid marring. Sometimes a wack with a rubber mallet can help add some shock to loosening things up.

Remember if you try to use an internal tikka action wrench to remove the barrel you could destroy the action if you use over 200ft lbs of force. A Tikka internal action wrench is great for putting barrels back on as you only need between 75-90ft lbs and that pressure is no danger to the action.

All these things combined and a tikka barrel will pop off, it's a little work but it avoids any cutting or need for a gun smith, and you get to keep your original barrel in tact.

View attachment 8645638View attachment 8645639
Is there a reason you didn’t get the vise closer to the action? Im getting ready to do this on a lite for the first time. I have a SAC vise and wheeler wrench.
 
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Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though,
Like, slightly over finger tight. Tight enough so it won’t slip off the flats, then stop.

This is the point I missed when I tried to remove a Tikka barrel. I had cranked on the bolts holding the external action wrench onto the receiver.

Ruined the barrel, messed up some threads in the receiver. D’oh!
 
Is there a reason you didn’t get the vise closer to the action? Im getting ready to do this on a lite for the first time. I have a SAC vise and wheeler wrench.
The Tikka barrel has a more extreme angle by the action due to the profile, so I try to grab an area that has the most grip and fits the barrel vise the best. You want as much surface area to grab as possible.
 
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View attachment 8632759
Stock standard GRtech SuperVarmint in .308Win. At this point I've walked around 12km already. This was the only shot for the day. I had all the confidence in the world knowing the shot would land precisely where I aimed.

I have 2 Tikka's now and don't regret either. I am probably one of the few that stil have them in the original stock.
That stock is great, especially for what it looks like you're doing. Even the CTR stock is fine for off hand shooting.
 
How do you like the Midas trigger? I just ordered one after years of eyeing it and just not having a Tikka to put it on before now.
I think it is the best 2-stage trigger for Tikka, and i have had Timney and even a Sako TRG 22/42 triggers, but i say that the Midas is the best.
It does brake donw like a glass, and the over travel after that is very very small.
For sure you are not able to put the trigger weight donw on pound, but these 2-stage triggers are not made to
compete with since stage triggers, i would say that 2-stage trigger is more like a combat and hunting use.
 
24" CTR in 6.5 CM
KRG Bravo
Harris BRM-S
TBAC Ultra 9
1000004331.jpg
 
Those CTR mags are butter smooth, are shorter and still hold ten. Plus I think all factory tikka stuff looks really good together. Longer COAL in the CTR as well. I may try an AI mag, which brand are you using?
The only non AW style mags I have at MDT mags. They are just a little thinner so a touch loose but feeds just fine. I still uses two TRG mags.
 
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I took off another Tikka barrel from a Tac A1 action. Minimal fuss, the key is prep work, patients, and torque.

1. Prep work: Once action and barrel are removed from the chassis hit the barrel joint inside the action and the outside of the action with penetrating oil like Kroil or WD40. Have the right tools, a Tikka action wrench is not enough to get a barrel off, for that job you need a wheeler action wrench that has flat sides. Make sure you got a good barrel vise and some rosin powder.

2. Patients: I like to sit the barrel vertically in a sink and let the oil soak in for days, turn the barrel the opposite direction and soak again for a day or two, let gravity help that oil seep into that joint, hit it several times with oil to make sure it's penetrated. Once the barrel is removed from the action you will notice the threads saturated in oil, it really gets in there if you give it time.

3. Torque: Once you are ready to take the barrel off make sure that the barrel is really snug in the barrel vise, use some cardboard as shims to avoid marring, and rosin sprinkled around will add to the grip the vice has on the barrel, you do not want slipping. Some extended heavy steel pipe that fits over the wheeler handle will be crucial and add to the torque you need in order to remove the barrel, i'm guessing it takes about 225-250 ft lbs to remove a tikka barrel, just a hunch. So make sure to have that cheater bar/pipe to add to that torque. Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though, card stock or business cards can be put in between the wrench flats and the action to avoid marring. Sometimes a wack with a rubber mallet can help add some shock to loosening things up.

Remember if you try to use an internal tikka action wrench to remove the barrel you could destroy the action if you use over 200ft lbs of force. A Tikka internal action wrench is great for putting barrels back on as you only need between 75-90ft lbs and that pressure is no danger to the action.

All these things combined and a tikka barrel will pop off, it's a little work but it avoids any cutting or need for a gun smith, and you get to keep your original barrel in tact.

View attachment 8645638View attachment 8645639
I finally got the new Proof barrel on and took the Tikka to the range to break the barrel in, I got some interesting results that I will share in another post.

When swapping barrels out I can't stress the importance of using a good torque limiting wrench like the ETork, or Summit Tools 3/8 or 1/2 drive. I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action. The other thing I recommend especially if you are mating a stainless barrel to a hardened steel receiver is some metal based anti seize, this should be used sparingly. This will be important in my case as I plan on removing the barrel at some point for another round of Ceracoat to the receiver. After the anti seize is applied work the action back and forth a few times to make sure the threads get an even coating, then the barrel will be ready to be torqued on. I torqued the barrel to close to 90ft lbs, this is more than enough torque to make sure the barrel is good and tight, won't come loose when firing, yet will come off with minimal effort when the time comes.

antiSeize.jpg

Torque.jpg
 
I finally got the new Proof barrel on and took the Tikka to the range to break the barrel in, I got some interesting results that I will share in another post.

When swapping barrels out I can't stress the importance of using a good torque limiting wrench like the ETork, or Summit Tools 3/8 or 1/2 drive. I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action. The other thing I recommend especially if you are mating a stainless barrel to a hardened steel receiver is some metal based anti seize, this should be used sparingly. This will be important in my case as I plan on removing the barrel at some point for another round of Ceracoat to the receiver. After the anti seize is applied work the action back and forth a few times to make sure the threads get an even coating, then the barrel will be ready to be torqued on. I torqued the barrel to close to 90ft lbs, this is more than enough torque to make sure the barrel is good and tight, won't come loose when firing, yet will come off with minimal effort when the time comes.

View attachment 8649639
View attachment 8649638
"I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action."

How much torque is required to mare or destroy the inner ramps of the action? How much is too much.
 
"I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action."

How much torque is required to mare or destroy the inner ramps of the action? How much is too much.
The ceiling on the inner part of the actions is anywhere from 175-200 FT lbs from what I have read, but I do not know for sure. This is when using the Tikka action tool, not when using a wheeler which applies the forces on the outer flats of the action. If you stay under 100ft lbs it should be all good.

From what I understand is when the barrels are installed at factory they use a hydraolic press and the action if put in a special chuck that protects the action.

But I am just a guy who tinkers, don't take my word as gospel, I am just relaying what I have researched and what has worked for me.
 
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Last edited:
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Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.

Long Rifles Inc in Sturgis SD did this for my factory barrel. It was a Tikka T3 lite stainless 300WSM. The problem is that those profile of barrels are too thin for there to be a shoulder behind the threads for a muzzle device to tighten up against. LRI machined a nut(which was like a thick washer with two flats). My muzzle device shouldered up against that nut. It worked great and I put maybe 500-1000 rounds down it. The muzzle device was a CB9.
 
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Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.
Plenty sporter 30 cal rifles are fitted with ~16.5mm muzzle diameter and use M14x1 muzzle thread but recently I am sure Sako are using M15x1 even up to 9.3x62. They seem to be happy with the small shoulder. I had an expert rifle smith fit a Suppressor using M16x1 on a 16.5mm Lothar Walther barrel. (he was an electrician by trade) even though there is only 0.5mm shoulder the supperssor and 308 rifle are working fantastic since more than twelve years. Only ever shot with suppressor. M15x1 should be ok.

edi
 
Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.
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1000008460.jpg

My T3x Lite 6.5 creed was threaded by thunder beast. They can do a face mount break using the face of the muzzle as the shoulder. Threaded 9/16 underneath. Works great.
 
Plenty sporter 30 cal rifles are fitted with ~16.5mm muzzle diameter and use M14x1 muzzle thread but recently I am sure Sako are using M15x1 even up to 9.3x62. They seem to be happy with the small shoulder. I had an expert rifle smith fit a Suppressor using M16x1 on a 16.5mm Lothar Walther barrel. (he was an electrician by trade) even though there is only 0.5mm shoulder the supperssor and 308 rifle are working fantastic since more than twelve years. Only ever shot with suppressor. M15x1 should be ok.

edi

Agreed, outside of the USA I'd say M14x1 or M15x1 is the most common thread for sporter weight barrels.
9/16x24 is about 14.3mm and is what I'd go for.

Tikka started offering the D18 profile that can take a 5/8x24 thread, but for standard lite profile need to go a bit smaller than that.
 
Kinda new to this so leaning as I go one more question then the receiver housing will work just change the bolt to a magnum? Thanks for the I nfo

Read that post. It should help.