Tikka T3 Thread

#13,451
jLorenzo said:
Great write up. What kind of barrel are you putting on?
Click to expand...
I have a Proof carbon 24" in 6.5 coming in the mail. Don't get me wrong, the Tikka barrels are about the best out of the box for many reasons however they are a little slow, the Proof will be a little faster, and it will lighten things up a tad.
 
#13,452
Sako man said:
I took off another Tikka barrel from a Tac A1 action. Minimal fuss, the key is prep work, patients, and torque.

1. Prep work: Once action and barrel are removed from the chassis hit the barrel joint inside the action and the outside of the action with penetrating oil like Kroil or WD40. Have the right tools, a Tikka action wrench is not enough to get a barrel off, for that job you need a wheeler action wrench that has flat sides. Make sure you got a good barrel vise and some rosin powder.

2. Patients: I like to sit the barrel vertically in a sink and let the oil soak in for days, turn the barrel the opposite direction and soak again for a day or two, let gravity help that oil seep into that joint, hit it several times with oil to make sure it's penetrated. Once the barrel is removed from the action you will notice the threads saturated in oil, it really gets in there if you give it time.

3. Torque: Once you are ready to take the barrel off make sure that the barrel is really snug in the barrel vise, use some cardboard as shims to avoid marring, and rosin sprinkled around will add to the grip the vice has on the barrel, you do not want slipping. Some extended heavy steel pipe that fits over the wheeler handle will be crucial and add to the torque you need in order to remove the barrel, i'm guessing it takes about 225-250 ft lbs to remove a tikka barrel, just a hunch. So make sure to have that cheater bar/pipe to add to that torque. Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though, card stock or business cards can be put in between the wrench flats and the action to avoid marring. Sometimes a wack with a rubber mallet can help add some shock to loosening things up.

Remember if you try to use an internal tikka action wrench to remove the barrel you could destroy the action if you use over 200ft lbs of force. A Tikka internal action wrench is great for putting barrels back on as you only need between 75-90ft lbs and that pressure is no danger to the action.

All these things combined and a tikka barrel will pop off, it's a little work but it avoids any cutting or need for a gun smith, and you get to keep your original barrel in tact.

View attachment 8645638View attachment 8645639
Click to expand...
Is there a reason you didn’t get the vise closer to the action? Im getting ready to do this on a lite for the first time. I have a SAC vise and wheeler wrench.
 
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#13,453
Sako man said:
Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though,
Click to expand...
Like, slightly over finger tight. Tight enough so it won’t slip off the flats, then stop.

This is the point I missed when I tried to remove a Tikka barrel. I had cranked on the bolts holding the external action wrench onto the receiver.

Ruined the barrel, messed up some threads in the receiver. D’oh!
 
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#13,454
trob said:
Is there a reason you didn’t get the vise closer to the action? Im getting ready to do this on a lite for the first time. I have a SAC vise and wheeler wrench.
Click to expand...
The Tikka barrel has a more extreme angle by the action due to the profile, so I try to grab an area that has the most grip and fits the barrel vise the best. You want as much surface area to grab as possible.
 
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#13,455
JerkyFreak said:
View attachment 8632759
Stock standard GRtech SuperVarmint in .308Win. At this point I've walked around 12km already. This was the only shot for the day. I had all the confidence in the world knowing the shot would land precisely where I aimed.

I have 2 Tikka's now and don't regret either. I am probably one of the few that stil have them in the original stock.
Click to expand...
That stock is great, especially for what it looks like you're doing. Even the CTR stock is fine for off hand shooting.
 
#13,456
NateVA said:
How do you like the Midas trigger? I just ordered one after years of eyeing it and just not having a Tikka to put it on before now.
Click to expand...
I think it is the best 2-stage trigger for Tikka, and i have had Timney and even a Sako TRG 22/42 triggers, but i say that the Midas is the best.
It does brake donw like a glass, and the over travel after that is very very small.
For sure you are not able to put the trigger weight donw on pound, but these 2-stage triggers are not made to
compete with since stage triggers, i would say that 2-stage trigger is more like a combat and hunting use.
 
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#13,459
24" CTR in 6.5 CM
KRG Bravo
Harris BRM-S
TBAC Ultra 9
1000004331.jpg
 
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#13,461
jLorenzo said:
Those CTR mags are butter smooth, are shorter and still hold ten. Plus I think all factory tikka stuff looks really good together. Longer COAL in the CTR as well. I may try an AI mag, which brand are you using?
Click to expand...
The only non AW style mags I have at MDT mags. They are just a little thinner so a touch loose but feeds just fine. I still uses two TRG mags.
 
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#13,466
Sako man said:
I took off another Tikka barrel from a Tac A1 action. Minimal fuss, the key is prep work, patients, and torque.

1. Prep work: Once action and barrel are removed from the chassis hit the barrel joint inside the action and the outside of the action with penetrating oil like Kroil or WD40. Have the right tools, a Tikka action wrench is not enough to get a barrel off, for that job you need a wheeler action wrench that has flat sides. Make sure you got a good barrel vise and some rosin powder.

2. Patients: I like to sit the barrel vertically in a sink and let the oil soak in for days, turn the barrel the opposite direction and soak again for a day or two, let gravity help that oil seep into that joint, hit it several times with oil to make sure it's penetrated. Once the barrel is removed from the action you will notice the threads saturated in oil, it really gets in there if you give it time.

3. Torque: Once you are ready to take the barrel off make sure that the barrel is really snug in the barrel vise, use some cardboard as shims to avoid marring, and rosin sprinkled around will add to the grip the vice has on the barrel, you do not want slipping. Some extended heavy steel pipe that fits over the wheeler handle will be crucial and add to the torque you need in order to remove the barrel, i'm guessing it takes about 225-250 ft lbs to remove a tikka barrel, just a hunch. So make sure to have that cheater bar/pipe to add to that torque. Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though, card stock or business cards can be put in between the wrench flats and the action to avoid marring. Sometimes a wack with a rubber mallet can help add some shock to loosening things up.

Remember if you try to use an internal tikka action wrench to remove the barrel you could destroy the action if you use over 200ft lbs of force. A Tikka internal action wrench is great for putting barrels back on as you only need between 75-90ft lbs and that pressure is no danger to the action.

All these things combined and a tikka barrel will pop off, it's a little work but it avoids any cutting or need for a gun smith, and you get to keep your original barrel in tact.

View attachment 8645638View attachment 8645639
Click to expand...
I finally got the new Proof barrel on and took the Tikka to the range to break the barrel in, I got some interesting results that I will share in another post.

When swapping barrels out I can't stress the importance of using a good torque limiting wrench like the ETork, or Summit Tools 3/8 or 1/2 drive. I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action. The other thing I recommend especially if you are mating a stainless barrel to a hardened steel receiver is some metal based anti seize, this should be used sparingly. This will be important in my case as I plan on removing the barrel at some point for another round of Ceracoat to the receiver. After the anti seize is applied work the action back and forth a few times to make sure the threads get an even coating, then the barrel will be ready to be torqued on. I torqued the barrel to close to 90ft lbs, this is more than enough torque to make sure the barrel is good and tight, won't come loose when firing, yet will come off with minimal effort when the time comes.

antiSeize.jpg

Torque.jpg
 
#13,468
Sako man said:
I finally got the new Proof barrel on and took the Tikka to the range to break the barrel in, I got some interesting results that I will share in another post.

When swapping barrels out I can't stress the importance of using a good torque limiting wrench like the ETork, or Summit Tools 3/8 or 1/2 drive. I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action. The other thing I recommend especially if you are mating a stainless barrel to a hardened steel receiver is some metal based anti seize, this should be used sparingly. This will be important in my case as I plan on removing the barrel at some point for another round of Ceracoat to the receiver. After the anti seize is applied work the action back and forth a few times to make sure the threads get an even coating, then the barrel will be ready to be torqued on. I torqued the barrel to close to 90ft lbs, this is more than enough torque to make sure the barrel is good and tight, won't come loose when firing, yet will come off with minimal effort when the time comes.

View attachment 8649639
View attachment 8649638
Click to expand...
"I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action."

How much torque is required to mare or destroy the inner ramps of the action? How much is too much.
 
#13,469
JerkyFreak said:
"I prefer a digital one that alerts you when you have hit your desired torque setting. This way you will not mare or destroy the inner ramps of your action."

How much torque is required to mare or destroy the inner ramps of the action? How much is too much.
Click to expand...
The ceiling on the inner part of the actions is anywhere from 175-200 FT lbs from what I have read, but I do not know for sure. This is when using the Tikka action tool, not when using a wheeler which applies the forces on the outer flats of the action. If you stay under 100ft lbs it should be all good.

From what I understand is when the barrels are installed at factory they use a hydraolic press and the action if put in a special chuck that protects the action.

But I am just a guy who tinkers, don't take my word as gospel, I am just relaying what I have researched and what has worked for me.
 
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#13,471
Last edited:
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#13,472
coreymlh said:
Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Long Rifles Inc in Sturgis SD did this for my factory barrel. It was a Tikka T3 lite stainless 300WSM. The problem is that those profile of barrels are too thin for there to be a shoulder behind the threads for a muzzle device to tighten up against. LRI machined a nut(which was like a thick washer with two flats). My muzzle device shouldered up against that nut. It worked great and I put maybe 500-1000 rounds down it. The muzzle device was a CB9.
 
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#13,473
coreymlh said:
Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Plenty sporter 30 cal rifles are fitted with ~16.5mm muzzle diameter and use M14x1 muzzle thread but recently I am sure Sako are using M15x1 even up to 9.3x62. They seem to be happy with the small shoulder. I had an expert rifle smith fit a Suppressor using M16x1 on a 16.5mm Lothar Walther barrel. (he was an electrician by trade) even though there is only 0.5mm shoulder the supperssor and 308 rifle are working fantastic since more than twelve years. Only ever shot with suppressor. M15x1 should be ok.

edi
 
#13,474
coreymlh said:
Hi, I am new here. I recently got a left-handed t3x lite 300WM stainless steel. I would like to have it threaded. But the local gunsmith told me the barrel is too thin. Does anyone have any experience with any gunsmith that can do the same barrel other than buying a new barrel and installing it? I am willing to ship to any great gunsmith as well. My first goal is to thread it to patterns that can install muzzle brakes, such as silencerco ASR. I will be really appreciate if any of you can give me any advice. Thank you.
Click to expand...
1000008461.jpg

1000008460.jpg

My T3x Lite 6.5 creed was threaded by thunder beast. They can do a face mount break using the face of the muzzle as the shoulder. Threaded 9/16 underneath. Works great.
 
#13,475
ejg said:
Plenty sporter 30 cal rifles are fitted with ~16.5mm muzzle diameter and use M14x1 muzzle thread but recently I am sure Sako are using M15x1 even up to 9.3x62. They seem to be happy with the small shoulder. I had an expert rifle smith fit a Suppressor using M16x1 on a 16.5mm Lothar Walther barrel. (he was an electrician by trade) even though there is only 0.5mm shoulder the supperssor and 308 rifle are working fantastic since more than twelve years. Only ever shot with suppressor. M15x1 should be ok.

edi
Click to expand...

Agreed, outside of the USA I'd say M14x1 or M15x1 is the most common thread for sporter weight barrels.
9/16x24 is about 14.3mm and is what I'd go for.

Tikka started offering the D18 profile that can take a 5/8x24 thread, but for standard lite profile need to go a bit smaller than that.
 
#13,479
Ironshovel77 said:
Kinda new to this so leaning as I go one more question then the receiver housing will work just change the bolt to a magnum? Thanks for the I nfo
Click to expand...
www.snipershide.com

Tikka T3 Thread

Hmmm is anybody familiar with the CDI bm? They show long action mags... I’m assuming I could run a SAUM round thru something like a 300wm mag even if it had some extra length?? I don't know anything about CDI. As far as mags you might have to tweek the feed lips a little so the fatter saum round...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

Read that post. It should help.
 
#13,480
LeftyJason said:
Here is a tikka buying guide 101 condensed from my own research and reading this whole giant thread and other tikka threads. The 2 most important criteria is action options and bolt face (changing that is $400).

T3x action you have 4 options. (note all are same length)
Blued righty
Blued lefty
Stainless righty
Stainless lefty

Bolt face you have 3 options. Some bolts are factory fluted.
223
308ish
Magnum

Bolt stop length is a part that can be changed.

Barrel options are generally 4 as well
Blued thin (2.5-3ish contour) non thread (9/16 at most possible) possible factory fluted
Stainless thin (same) non thread (same) possible factory fluted
Blued heavier (light Palma per @bohem ) threaded
Stainless heavier (same) threaded
Ed: there is also varmint which is slightly heavier than the ctr but isn't threaded. There is a super varmint that is threaded. Not sure on contour vs varmint.

Trigger you generally have 2 options
Two stage trigger (Tac A1 and Super varmint) 3 position safety on A1 and 2 position on sv.
Excellent single stage (all others. Some change out with a $10 trigger spring. Fewer change out to a different trigger. This ain't like Remingtons)

Note from all that I have seen here in this thread the factory barrels all shoot great. Barrels are chf and pretty much same as Sako. Some may be a little slow (per @Lowlight and a few others). Also they may be throated a little long from what I have heard.

Magazines you have 2 options.
CTR pattern 5 or 10 (Tac A1 and CTR only. 10's come with. Extra 10's cost on par with steel aics)
Basic tikka flush fit sized

Note most chassis only fit short action aics only. Somebody somewhere on the hide went through and created the spreadsheet attached. If I remembered who I'd credit.

Magpul aics Do Not work with any tikka without Extensive filing of feed lips which makes them prone to troubles.

Tikkas generally do not need blueprinting to work. The general consensus is you could but why waste the money? Aftermarket shouldered pre-fit barrels are made by a few different companies.

Pic rail.
CTR and tac a1 come with 0 moa rail. Rail pretty much has to be removed with heat of some sort (clothes iron or blow torch and then scraping off residue.)
Actions come with a dovetail that spuhr (and maybe a few others) makes stuff that fits. 20, 30, and I think 40's are available. (Currently no tac a1 specific slanted rails exist that match fore end.)

Bolt handles are dovetailed in. Swept are available from some. Metal shrouds are available as well. Reviews and pictures are in this thread. Aftermarket are available from
Sterk (@cannoncrossfire )
Glades armory
Anarchy outdoors
Mountain tactical (tikkaperformance.com)

When you are looking at tikka and you are in the USA, make sure you are looking at the en-US site. http://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles

It is tempting to look at the other international site http://www.tikka.fi/rifles but they don't import alot of those options.

Aug 2019 edit
Aftermarket trigger options
Yodave spring or similar $10
Krg midas 2 stage trigger top safety $289
Timney 430 2 stage trigger. $248

March 2020 edit. Krg Bravo is now available with ctr mag fit.

Oct 2020 update.
If you want to have an aftermarket 2 stage trigger on a left handed tikka you will need to get a slot milled in the right side for the safety. Or move the safety (carefully) from the left handed trigger (works on midas). @K2e2vin has done it.

March 2021 update.
Long rifles Inc now has aftermarket bolts available. Jan 2024 update.

Www.Choose.tikka.fi/usa shows lots of great options but per a conversation with the Beretta Dallas flagship store they won't order anything in that ends in MTB. Stupid teasing. The ones that they import start with JRT

August 2022 update: added bolt fluting and barrel fluting notes since they weren't in there.

Hope this helps. If anybody knows more about other options chime in.

July 2023 update
Super varmint update. Sv has single stack mag. Sv has 2 stage trigger. Cheek piece is adjustable. Bolt is fluted. Barrel is threaded. Epoxied 0moa rail. Stock has some texture. Not sure if stock is stiffer. No left handed options.

March 2024
Havent seen @cannoncrossfire / Sterk in a while. He is still making his parts.
Also updates to triggers.
Click to expand...
Thank you for all the info going with 6.5 prc
 
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