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Rifle Scopes Best way to clean scope lense
- Thread starter Sport67
- Start date
I use this in the field and for a quick touch up:
www.bhphotovideo.com
I use this kit for cleaning if it's been particularly dirty, dusty, rainy and there are spots on the lenses:
www.brownells.com
Spudz makes the NF braded kit, they sell it as the Professional Optics Kit. Spudz is also the source for a lot of the branded lens clothes that come with some scopes, they're good stuff. I like the Carson lens pens, they also make a nice compact version. I have used the Zeiss lens wipes a bunch but don't really prefer them, I found them to be streaky and require a pass with the lens pen anyway.
You don't need to spend money on the kits and lens pens, you can use clean Acetone and q-tips to clean the lenses with. I do not recommend using canned air to blow the lenses off to remove dust or other debris, if you angle the cannister it can spray propellant on the lens and crack it due to the sudden temperature change. You can use a soft bristle lens brush and/or blower to get that stuff out of there.
Plenty of places sell quality optics cleaning gear, Brownells, Amazon, camera stores, etc...
Carson C6 Lens Cleaner Pen
Buy Carson C6 Lens Cleaner Pen featuring Soft Tip and Retractable Brush, Dry Nano-Particle Cleaning Formula, For Binoculars, Cameras, and Camcorders, Lightweight, Compact Design, Safe For All Lenses. Review Carson CS-10 Lens Cleaner
I use this kit for cleaning if it's been particularly dirty, dusty, rainy and there are spots on the lenses:
NIGHTFORCE PROFESSIONAL OPTICAL CLEANING KIT | Brownells
The Nightforce Optics Professional Optic Cleaning Kit has everything you need to keep your high-end optic clean and in-focus. The kit includes cleaning and anti-fog sprays, microfiber cleaning cloths, lens swabs, dust blower and lens brush, all of...
www.brownells.com
Spudz makes the NF braded kit, they sell it as the Professional Optics Kit. Spudz is also the source for a lot of the branded lens clothes that come with some scopes, they're good stuff. I like the Carson lens pens, they also make a nice compact version. I have used the Zeiss lens wipes a bunch but don't really prefer them, I found them to be streaky and require a pass with the lens pen anyway.
You don't need to spend money on the kits and lens pens, you can use clean Acetone and q-tips to clean the lenses with. I do not recommend using canned air to blow the lenses off to remove dust or other debris, if you angle the cannister it can spray propellant on the lens and crack it due to the sudden temperature change. You can use a soft bristle lens brush and/or blower to get that stuff out of there.
Plenty of places sell quality optics cleaning gear, Brownells, Amazon, camera stores, etc...
There's nothing you're going to be able to do to keep rain off the lenses. You can mitigate it by putting the sunshade on to help keep the rain off the objective and occasionally dry them off before a stage if they're really bad but they're going to get wet.
If I'm shooting in the rain, I'll put the sun shade on, remember to exhale through my nose so I don't fog up my ocular with condensation, and depending on the conditions I'll probably leave the flip caps open or take them off. In spring and summer months, if water gets on the flip caps, like when it rains, and you close them, when you open them for the next stage you're likely to find both covered in condensation.
If I'm shooting in the rain, I'll put the sun shade on, remember to exhale through my nose so I don't fog up my ocular with condensation, and depending on the conditions I'll probably leave the flip caps open or take them off. In spring and summer months, if water gets on the flip caps, like when it rains, and you close them, when you open them for the next stage you're likely to find both covered in condensation.
Use air blower and lens brush to remove particles.
Then do this:
Then do this:
I blow/brush the dust off, then put some lens cleaning fluid on lens tissue and gently clean the lens. I haven’t scratched a lens yet.
A lens pen will scratch a lens. Don’t use it.
A lens pen will scratch a lens. Don’t use it.
I'd say that's true with most lense cleaners, but unless it's absolutely necessary I don't use them.
This link is from the same guy that did the video above, but I think he’s a bit more succinct here.
edit: I believe, but do not know, that a sealed riflescope will (probably) be not affected by getting the edge of the lens wet. Most camera lenses are definitely not sealed in any meaningful way.
edit: I believe, but do not know, that a sealed riflescope will (probably) be not affected by getting the edge of the lens wet. Most camera lenses are definitely not sealed in any meaningful way.
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Hot breath from your mouth then make small circles with your shirt tail till it wipes clean.
Seeing as I can't find Schott wipes, everything else is a fail.
I rarely clean, and if I have to, I slum around with Zeiss wipez.
I rarely clean, and if I have to, I slum around with Zeiss wipez.
You should try the technique the video I posted shows. I have used it a number of times and it works. I don’t usually get it spotless in one try, but if you follow directions exactly, you will get that lens clean.
I usually have two different kinds of cleaning
1. field cleaning like rain or some fog on the lens
Get a microfiber cloth and just wipe it off gently.
2. at home cleaning after a good while
If the lens is visually dirty I’ll use the method as shown in the videos above but instead of using qtips I’ll use lens tissue (fisher scientific on amazon). If you have to use a solution use the spudz ar safe solution.
big thing is you don’t want to rub anything on a dry lens. Also you won’t scratch your lens every time you clean. Avoid canned air becuase the cold shock can crack your lenses, use a squeeze bulb/ squeeze blower.
There doesn’t appear to be a consensus on a universally accepted practice of cleaning scope lenses. Tough too determine whose advice to follow. I’ve acquired a used Strike Eagle scope that came dirty in a package deal. It looks like it’s been sitting on a dusty shelf unprotected for a few years. If it’s salvageable, I’d like some advice on how to clean it. The objective lens has a layer of dirt/grime on it and I’m primarily concerned with avoiding scratching the glass and coatings.
From what I’ve gathered I’m thinking of using a bulb blower and maybe compressed air to remove the surface dirt/dust. Is compressed air from a pancake compressor on? Next I was thinking of using distilled water and dish soap. However, I’m hesitant to rub the lens with what appears to be caked on grime, so what’s an effective method of cleaning the lens in soapy water without scratching it? After rinsing I figure I can blot the lens with a microfiber cloth (I’m unsure about this part) and use a blower and brush to remove any dust from the cloth once lens is dry. I thought I might use a packaged lens wipe to finish cleaning. Does this process seem ok? Am I missing something? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
From what I’ve gathered I’m thinking of using a bulb blower and maybe compressed air to remove the surface dirt/dust. Is compressed air from a pancake compressor on? Next I was thinking of using distilled water and dish soap. However, I’m hesitant to rub the lens with what appears to be caked on grime, so what’s an effective method of cleaning the lens in soapy water without scratching it? After rinsing I figure I can blot the lens with a microfiber cloth (I’m unsure about this part) and use a blower and brush to remove any dust from the cloth once lens is dry. I thought I might use a packaged lens wipe to finish cleaning. Does this process seem ok? Am I missing something? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
there is no best as each manufacturer uses different lens coatings and different epoxy/glue to hold lenses in place
at a minimum;
bulb for puffing
optical cleaning solutions
optical/glass wipes
but ask the OEM what chemicals are safe for their product
one company years ago used an epoxy that was not solvent resistant and when guys cleaned with methanol as the last step, it started eating away at the lens glue and lenses became loose.
at a minimum;
bulb for puffing
optical cleaning solutions
optical/glass wipes
but ask the OEM what chemicals are safe for their product
one company years ago used an epoxy that was not solvent resistant and when guys cleaned with methanol as the last step, it started eating away at the lens glue and lenses became loose.
Didn't you also recommend peanut butter on the lens and allow your dog to lick it clean?
That trick worked on my Tasco; cleanest she's ever been.
+ 3
On the nightforce, I go with post #2
Previously discussed here....
www.snipershide.com
There'll be no consensus. I've been active in photography for 62 years so here's what I've distilled from watching camera tech's clean glass and what I settled on later in life when it comes to my own optics.
You either develop a "touch" for cleaning your glass or you won't no matter what routine you use and my camera tech (he's not greedy) has told some folks they've got no business touching the front of their glass and showed others how to do it when they show an aptitude for it.
If U got a front element with a layer of dirty/dried up crud, either take it to a reputable technician or try to find some junk lens filters to practice on before tackling the crud on your front element.
If this is your 1st try I'd suggest U not tackle this much build up on the optic.
Zeiss wipes are set up to be "dummy proof", they're wet and they dry out in about 90 seconds where you start in a circular motion in the center of the glass working your way out to the edge of the element timing this to where you just finish as the wipe dries out. Blow off the element first w/a hand blower, then wipe w/a moist wipe.
YEAH I know, scopes are sealed, you STILL want to be careful.
Just as important as cleaning the front of your optic is storing it to avoid fungus eventually etching into the lens coating of your optic from long term storage of your optic in a damp area. Fungus can look like a build up of"white thread" w/little knots in it, get this off immediately.
A few specks "here and there" is no excuse to go cleaning your optic, leave it alone until you have a build up and then clean it.
My March scope cost me a fortune (at least to me) so I've got MC filters (coated on both sides) screwed onto the acc threads front and back.
I've had folks disagree w/doing this but this works for me both as a way of keeping the front element pristine and as protection where having a protective filter was destroyed in a "fender bender" but saved the expensive optic I had it on.
Every 1 of the images I've uploaded here and in my "about" section were taken w/MC filters (coated on both sides) and I've done it this way for 45-50 yrs. w/no image degradation/loss in color fidelty/contrast/resolution, no artifacts/no nothing. As a professional I couldn't hand work to a client that had problems because of the filter or anything else.
Convex | Sniper's Hide Forum (snipershide.com)
Hopefully you can come up w/something 4 yourself from these discussions.
How are lenses cleaned at the factory?
Especially, how are they dried? When I open up the box on a new optical device, the lenses are absolutely perfectly clean. I can never get them that clean. There is always some residue and "water marks" that remain on the lens. I have seen any number of videos and articles on lens cleaning...
www.snipershide.com
There'll be no consensus. I've been active in photography for 62 years so here's what I've distilled from watching camera tech's clean glass and what I settled on later in life when it comes to my own optics.
You either develop a "touch" for cleaning your glass or you won't no matter what routine you use and my camera tech (he's not greedy) has told some folks they've got no business touching the front of their glass and showed others how to do it when they show an aptitude for it.
If U got a front element with a layer of dirty/dried up crud, either take it to a reputable technician or try to find some junk lens filters to practice on before tackling the crud on your front element.
If this is your 1st try I'd suggest U not tackle this much build up on the optic.
Zeiss wipes are set up to be "dummy proof", they're wet and they dry out in about 90 seconds where you start in a circular motion in the center of the glass working your way out to the edge of the element timing this to where you just finish as the wipe dries out. Blow off the element first w/a hand blower, then wipe w/a moist wipe.
YEAH I know, scopes are sealed, you STILL want to be careful.
Just as important as cleaning the front of your optic is storing it to avoid fungus eventually etching into the lens coating of your optic from long term storage of your optic in a damp area. Fungus can look like a build up of"white thread" w/little knots in it, get this off immediately.
A few specks "here and there" is no excuse to go cleaning your optic, leave it alone until you have a build up and then clean it.
My March scope cost me a fortune (at least to me) so I've got MC filters (coated on both sides) screwed onto the acc threads front and back.
I've had folks disagree w/doing this but this works for me both as a way of keeping the front element pristine and as protection where having a protective filter was destroyed in a "fender bender" but saved the expensive optic I had it on.
Every 1 of the images I've uploaded here and in my "about" section were taken w/MC filters (coated on both sides) and I've done it this way for 45-50 yrs. w/no image degradation/loss in color fidelty/contrast/resolution, no artifacts/no nothing. As a professional I couldn't hand work to a client that had problems because of the filter or anything else.
Convex | Sniper's Hide Forum (snipershide.com)
Hopefully you can come up w/something 4 yourself from these discussions.
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@Convex Thank you. Your suggestion seems really logical. I took a couple photos under artificial light and couldn’t quite catch the layer of grime the way I wanted to. It also appears as it the objective lens may already be scratched. I figured if it’s not too bad I can still hit the timber and knock around the woods with it once I get it cleaned up.
That's really funny!! I know the feeling!! U do a pic trying to hide something, SO it shows up perfect.
Do a pic for the express purpose of showing the crud and it hides from U!!
A few scratches won't seriously degrade the performance of the optic, so if you have a tech U can find who'll do this for you many of them are cool enough to do it at the counter demonstrating how they do it.
Then nothing is added to the scratches already there.
Good luck.
Do a pic for the express purpose of showing the crud and it hides from U!!
A few scratches won't seriously degrade the performance of the optic, so if you have a tech U can find who'll do this for you many of them are cool enough to do it at the counter demonstrating how they do it.
Then nothing is added to the scratches already there.
Good luck.
The first defense against dust, is religious use of flip up lens-caps.
As for rain I try to blow off as much as I can to prevent water spots from dust and air pollution in the rain. Nasty stuff…..
For mild cleaning, I used a lens pen brush, them have a go at anything stubborn with the lens pen pad reloading from the cap as needed.
I generally go on the clean only as needed philosophy but also find that dust that will blow or brush off easily, turns to dust-film over time. Nasty stuff….
On a day when the scope glass is really dirty from wind blown dust etc I remove from rifle and rinse with room temperature water first. Then I move to microfiber lense cloth as needed. I use this kit: https://www.scheels.com/p/vortex-fog-free-field-kit/87587400597.html
As for rain I try to blow off as much as I can to prevent water spots from dust and air pollution in the rain. Nasty stuff…..
For mild cleaning, I used a lens pen brush, them have a go at anything stubborn with the lens pen pad reloading from the cap as needed.
I generally go on the clean only as needed philosophy but also find that dust that will blow or brush off easily, turns to dust-film over time. Nasty stuff….
On a day when the scope glass is really dirty from wind blown dust etc I remove from rifle and rinse with room temperature water first. Then I move to microfiber lense cloth as needed. I use this kit: https://www.scheels.com/p/vortex-fog-free-field-kit/87587400597.html
big fan of warm water and soap , dry dirt scratches mud just washes away it drys all on it's on costing me nothing extra .
@Max Agreed. I put flip caps on most all of my scopes. I think I only have a small Leupold Freedom that I don’t have caps for. However, this is something I’ve never used. It came to me in the condition that you see in the photo. I was mounting a few new optics the other day and figured I’d try the Strike Eagle as well. I figure It’s better to practice on a cheaper used scope than to mess up a nice high-end one. I wanted to figure a way to clean it properly before mounting and sighting it in.
Because I use caps, I don’t clean my scopes too often. In the woods if they fog up and there’s quarry in sight I’ll use the inside of my shirt. I know that’s frowned upon, but I’ve only done that once or twice to a cheap scope.
Thank you all. You’ve been helpful.
Because I use caps, I don’t clean my scopes too often. In the woods if they fog up and there’s quarry in sight I’ll use the inside of my shirt. I know that’s frowned upon, but I’ve only done that once or twice to a cheap scope.
Thank you all. You’ve been helpful.
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Get a small Kinetronics anti-static brush to keep UR blower company out in the "woods".
I use several inexpensive tools but only touch the lenses when absolutely necessary when really dirty.
Canned air works pretty decent for a quick dust off.
Canned air works pretty decent for a quick dust off.
The good thing about the zeiss wipes is U can take a dozen or so in UR pocket wherever U go.
Some folks prefer to do it another way which is fine; having protective filters on every one of my optics I never/don't have to touch the front elements, just the filters.
If I ever decide to sell an optic I bought new, that insures the front element/objective is as "pristine as the day I bought it and I specify that when I sell it.
Some folks prefer to do it another way which is fine; having protective filters on every one of my optics I never/don't have to touch the front elements, just the filters.
If I ever decide to sell an optic I bought new, that insures the front element/objective is as "pristine as the day I bought it and I specify that when I sell it.
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Your right and i end up finding them in places i forgot i put occasionally.
Bags, jacket pockets the console in my jeep
Update:
I got a reply from a Vortex Optics sales and technical (support?) representative. In my query I also sent a photo of the objective lens in question. I didn’t mention anything about caked on mud, but I’m glad he mentioned it considering that I have slipped and fallen while carrying a rifle in the woods. His advice is as follows:
“I am happy to give you some pointers regarding cleaning your lenses.
Caked on mud can certainly be a challenge when cleaning lenses. First things first, here is a list of recommended tools and solvents to use:
Nylon brush style lens pen
Ordinary cotton Qtips
Wooden toothpick
Canned or preferably compressed air
Water
60 to 90% Isopropyl Alcohol
Liquid lens cleaner solution
Paper towel
The key to this is really going to be technique more than anything, so I apologize if some of this sounds rudimentary or redundant. First thing I do is blow away and loose debris with some strong compressed air, preferably from a hose. The next thing I do is kind of try to break up any harder stuck on pieces with the nylon brush end of a lens pen. I will kind of poke at the crust and try to flick it out as I do, rotating the entire bino around the lens pen. Periodically I will turn the bino upside down and let the debris fall off the lens as I pick and flick the mud. I focus on the rim of the lens mostly. If there is still stubborn dirt after this you can go after it very carefully with a wooden toothpick, try to poke very intentionally, do not drap the pick across the glass. Continually keep picking and flicking with the nylon brush to remove any loose material as well as blasting with compressed air as you go.
Eventually you should get to the point where you pretty much only have a dusty kind of surface left. When you get to that point, soak the paper towel in water and lay it very carefully on the lens itself to try and soften up the dust. Make sure not to scrub with the paper towel, try to avoid rubbing the glass until you get to the q tips. Soak the q tips in water and very carefully wipe from side to side the lens. Go slowly and do not use alot of pressure. It should almost feel like you are doing a charcoal or pencil rubbing over a plaque or something like that. Continue to let is dry and hit it again with the brush and air. After that, go after it with the same process just with the alcohol on the qtip instead. Repeat again with the lens cleaner. After you hit the lens with the cleaner, go ahead and blow some hot moist breath on the lens to fog it up and clean it with the felt pad end of your lens pen and that should do it.
Do not use any solvents other than the alcohol and remember not to rub the lens until all the dust and dirt has been removed.
It's very difficult to really express the best way to clean them without having a lot of experience, and plenty of screw ups along the way.
As always, if you don't feel comfortable cleaning the lenses, we can always help you out and do that for you. Just let us know.”
What @Convex communicated about technique in some of his responses is echoed above. I’ll probably give it a shot by this weekend. I also like the tip about carrying a few wipes in my pocket on a hunt. I’d been leaving them in the carrying case. Thanks again you guys.
I got a reply from a Vortex Optics sales and technical (support?) representative. In my query I also sent a photo of the objective lens in question. I didn’t mention anything about caked on mud, but I’m glad he mentioned it considering that I have slipped and fallen while carrying a rifle in the woods. His advice is as follows:
“I am happy to give you some pointers regarding cleaning your lenses.
Caked on mud can certainly be a challenge when cleaning lenses. First things first, here is a list of recommended tools and solvents to use:
Nylon brush style lens pen
Ordinary cotton Qtips
Wooden toothpick
Canned or preferably compressed air
Water
60 to 90% Isopropyl Alcohol
Liquid lens cleaner solution
Paper towel
The key to this is really going to be technique more than anything, so I apologize if some of this sounds rudimentary or redundant. First thing I do is blow away and loose debris with some strong compressed air, preferably from a hose. The next thing I do is kind of try to break up any harder stuck on pieces with the nylon brush end of a lens pen. I will kind of poke at the crust and try to flick it out as I do, rotating the entire bino around the lens pen. Periodically I will turn the bino upside down and let the debris fall off the lens as I pick and flick the mud. I focus on the rim of the lens mostly. If there is still stubborn dirt after this you can go after it very carefully with a wooden toothpick, try to poke very intentionally, do not drap the pick across the glass. Continually keep picking and flicking with the nylon brush to remove any loose material as well as blasting with compressed air as you go.
Eventually you should get to the point where you pretty much only have a dusty kind of surface left. When you get to that point, soak the paper towel in water and lay it very carefully on the lens itself to try and soften up the dust. Make sure not to scrub with the paper towel, try to avoid rubbing the glass until you get to the q tips. Soak the q tips in water and very carefully wipe from side to side the lens. Go slowly and do not use alot of pressure. It should almost feel like you are doing a charcoal or pencil rubbing over a plaque or something like that. Continue to let is dry and hit it again with the brush and air. After that, go after it with the same process just with the alcohol on the qtip instead. Repeat again with the lens cleaner. After you hit the lens with the cleaner, go ahead and blow some hot moist breath on the lens to fog it up and clean it with the felt pad end of your lens pen and that should do it.
Do not use any solvents other than the alcohol and remember not to rub the lens until all the dust and dirt has been removed.
It's very difficult to really express the best way to clean them without having a lot of experience, and plenty of screw ups along the way.
As always, if you don't feel comfortable cleaning the lenses, we can always help you out and do that for you. Just let us know.”
What @Convex communicated about technique in some of his responses is echoed above. I’ll probably give it a shot by this weekend. I also like the tip about carrying a few wipes in my pocket on a hunt. I’d been leaving them in the carrying case. Thanks again you guys.
You mean spitting on the lens and using the tail of your t-shirt is no good? LOL
I touch lenses as absolutely little as possible but when I do its 99% ISO and q-tips followed by a soft clean lens cloth.
I touch lenses as absolutely little as possible but when I do its 99% ISO and q-tips followed by a soft clean lens cloth.
All we do is buy and sell used optics, so we see a lot of dirty lenses that had a wide variety of treatment. We use the technique that is in the two videos, above, with the q-tips and the water.
I've come to the conclusion that lens-pens are great when they are used in the way Vortex explained to @Ezana4CE. Unfortunately, most people just use the felt end to smear the dirt over to the edges of the dirty lens. For instance, on ACOGs, which come with lens-pens, the cleaning usually takes significantly longer to remove the built up dirt and oil.
I've come to the conclusion that lens-pens are great when they are used in the way Vortex explained to @Ezana4CE. Unfortunately, most people just use the felt end to smear the dirt over to the edges of the dirty lens. For instance, on ACOGs, which come with lens-pens, the cleaning usually takes significantly longer to remove the built up dirt and oil.
Put this together a few years back when a similar question was asked
Got it done with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, a blower bulb, a lens brush, and a lens wipe.
Just wanted to provide an update and say thanks again to all who contributed to an informative thread.
Just wanted to provide an update and say thanks again to all who contributed to an informative thread.
First video doesn't mention Alcohol, but 2nd does.
Anyone know how important (if at all) is it to use 70% alcohol?
I have 99% I use for bore cleaning after solvents.
EDIT: As I am impatient, I used some 91% I had in the medicine cabinet.
I used 1 q-tip at a time, instead of 2. Bottled water, then alcohol (which left residue. Maybe not necessary unless oily smudges?), then final water q-tips.
Worked really well.
Made sure to use a clean cloth to remove access water or alcohol from q-tips.
Probably used 5-6 q-tips on each lens. It is important to switch to a new one often as they start to leave residue/smudges quickly.
Also, a handheld Flashlight at different angles was really helpful to spot any smudges after it appeared clean.
Anyone know how important (if at all) is it to use 70% alcohol?
I have 99% I use for bore cleaning after solvents.
EDIT: As I am impatient, I used some 91% I had in the medicine cabinet.
I used 1 q-tip at a time, instead of 2. Bottled water, then alcohol (which left residue. Maybe not necessary unless oily smudges?), then final water q-tips.
Worked really well.
Made sure to use a clean cloth to remove access water or alcohol from q-tips.
Probably used 5-6 q-tips on each lens. It is important to switch to a new one often as they start to leave residue/smudges quickly.
Also, a handheld Flashlight at different angles was really helpful to spot any smudges after it appeared clean.
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I use a lens blower bulb.
When wiping the lens, I like to use small circular motions starting from the center and moving outward.
When wiping the lens, I like to use small circular motions starting from the center and moving outward.
