10/22 receiver for shooting suppressed

[FormerFarmer]

I shoot mainly suppressed and would like to upgrade my rifle to a aftermarket receiver. It will be getting mounted into a KRG Bravo stock. I am using a JWH bolt and charging handle.

Is there any advantage from one receiver to another to be able to function properly after shooting 500 rounds suppressed?

I am wondering if the different materials that the different manufacturers use would make a difference.

I also posted this over on RimFireCentral.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Can't help with the receiver question but I can say that they action gets really dirty really quick. My only suppressed barreled action is a factory Ruger with a Federson barrel. I can also comment on the JWH bolt, it didn't work for me. I had many many misfires using his bolt/FP design.

Those RFC guys will probably tell you KIDD is the way to go without any evidence. They are like "kids" over there.

 

[M4guru]

Best luck I have had is flushing it with a light oil (like Rem Oil) when it gets sluggish and keep shooting.

I've got a handful of factory Rugers, 1 T/CR 22, 2 TacSol guns, and a Volquartsen, and a Kidd and none of them seem any better or worse for duration they can endure fouling to me.

 

[Adam B]

I have a YHM integral suppressor and it is dirty as all get out. I think the 10/22 is just not a good platform to shoot suppressed on.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

My 10/22 receiver with Kidd barrel and TBAC 22 TD starts to have extraction/ejection issues after ˜225-250 rounds of SK ammo, but ˜150-200 rounds with CCI SV.
It really does get dirty, but with a nylon bolt pin, it is only slightly louder than my bolt action and is the 22LR configuration that follows me to the range most often.
YMMV, happy shooting

 

[hlee]

I’ll just chime in to say that my ruger factory receiver and Kidd super grade are both filthy after ~250 rounds- unsuppressed. I clean my Kidd after each match as it is shared by 3 people. Of the 2, I’d give the nod to the factory receiver for running fouled. It has gone 1000s of rounds without a cleaning- as it was run hard by a youth (me) that didn’t know that cleaning meant disassembly.

 

[alamo5000]

I shoot my 10/22 suppressed all the time. Well past 500 rounds sometimes. I am using a full on Kidd build. Tip to tail it's all Kidd except for the stock and optic. That said I don't think a particular brand of reciever will matter nearly as much as what you do to keep things running.

There are a few 'tricks' I use to keep from having to always break down my gun for cleaning. The first is the type of lubricant you use when the gun is apart. I use a light type of grease on some key areas and that's it. Don't use oil based anything because it evaporates and stuff sticks to it a lot more in my experience. Some types of oil will in fact increase the need to do a full clean a lot more frequently, particularly in a suppressed 10/22. That again has been a sample of one from me so take it with a grain of salt, but try it for yourself and see if you like it or notice a difference.

Why it matters... the coating Kidd uses on their recievers and bolts (I think it's DLC but I am not sure) is naturally resistant to sticking. If it were possible to run the gun completely dry you would be good for a lot longer than normal. But since that is not an option I use the grease instead of any kind of oil. The carbon or whatever that gunk is might stick to the top layer of grease but it will still retain a lot more lubricity for longer. At least it works for me. You don't have to slather the whole thing with grease. Just enough in key areas.

The second 'trick' is getting some Rimfire Blend cleaning solution from BoreTech. That stuff is gold. In the action of the gun where I get most problems is where the bolt meets the barrel. Because the extension on the barrel protrudes just a bit inside the receiver it leaves a small gap between the inside of the top of the receiver and the barrel extension. It will build up to the point that the bolt cannot fully close because of the carbon build up.

A few squirts of the Rimfire Blend in that area works great and can be done in the field no problem. Let it soak a few minutes and/or apply another application and simply brush it out with a nylon brush so you can get down in that crease better. Then wipe it out with a rag and carry on. While I am in there doing that I get the bolt face too with the cleaning solution, nylon brush, and wipe it out when I am done.

Another thing to do is remove the suppressor and clean the crown of the barrel. I have an old cotton mop for an AR15 chamber that works great because my crown is a bit recessed. Put the Rimfire Blend on the crown however you can and wipe it out and reapply until clean. It usually only takes a minute or two then replace the can and carry on.

Keep in mind these things can be done at home or before (or after) your shooting session. It takes less than 10 minutes tops and helps lengthen the time in between full breakdown cleanings. Eventually you will definitely need to do a full breakdown to clean everything because among other things your trigger will start to gum up something terrible over time.

I don't know how many rounds I do in between full on deep cleaning but I know it's a lot more than 500 rounds. Maybe more like twice that. You can look and visually see if it needs a pass or two. An ounce of prevention works. Just don't let it get insanely dirty and you can shoot a lot more before having to do the full monty.

 

[FormerFarmer]

KOD - I am surprised that the RFC crowd didn't say Kidd was better than any other. I also noticed that the JWH doesn't seem to run as well as an old Ruger bolt that I have after it gets dirty.

Alamo5000 - I will have to try that with the Boretech cleaners. I have several of their products here. I usually use Hornaday One Shot to "lube" the action.

Thanks to everyone for your responses. There is definitely more information here than over on RFC.

Anybody have any thoughts on using Feddersen receivers? Either the Bronze-Nickel alloy or the Nickel-Bronze alloy? I am wondering if the natural lubricity of bronze would help with functionality when they get dirty.

 

[alamo5000]

KOD - I am surprised that the RFC crowd didn't say Kidd was better than any other. I also noticed that the JWH doesn't seem to run as well as an old Ruger bolt that I have after it gets dirty.

Alamo5000 - I will have to try that with the Boretech cleaners. I have several of their products here. I usually use Hornaday One Shot to "lube" the action.

Thanks to everyone for your responses. There is definitely more information here than over on RFC.

Anybody have any thoughts on using Feddersen receivers? Either the Bronze-Nickel alloy or the Nickel-Bronze alloy? I am wondering if the natural lubricity of bronze would help with functionality when they get dirty.

It's a combination of the type of lubricant (I looked it up and I am using something called 'cherry balmz'. They have one specifically for rimfire.

I am not selling you anything but just read up on their educational stuff on their site. You will have to click through a few pages to get it all. It's worth a try for sure. I like mine a lot. I use the same brand on my ARs as well.

CherryBalmz Basics

Our weapons lubricants are designed to withstand the harshest torture you can expose them to in your firearms.

www.cherrybalmz.com

That+ the rimfire stuff from Bore Tech... you will be good to go. If you live in the arctic the type of lube might vary but for me it's been awesome.

 

[NewsShooter]

I have three with JWH bolts, they all run fine. Never shot suppressed.

 

[308 Rem]

My 10-22 dont like being suppressed using a tactical solution
Went to a bolt gun Lots less maintance