Range Report 100y vs: 200y zero....

Ring

Rifle Instructor
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Minuteman
Dec 12, 2009
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Medina, Ohio
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for me i have always used a 200y zero for my long range guns, i felt that using this gave me a more accurate zero, and 90% of my kills with these guns are 200y to 300y, it makes it easier.. but after reading a bunch of ballistic wight ups and info on ballistic programs, it seems with a 100y zero you dont need to account for weather or DA for the zero,
Sources of Ballistic Program Inaccuracies
http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/Programs/

Barometric Pressure and Ballistic Software
http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/Baro/
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

right.. thats what i do now.. but from what im reading, with a 100+ zero, you need to put in you DA and weather info to the program u use for the zero.

then more weather data for all shots past that

with a 100y, no need to input any weather/alt data for the zero... just shots past 100.. less room for errors this way..
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

Umm, no.

Both 100 yards and 200 yards are too short a distance for the weather to have any effect on the zero, with the <span style="font-style: italic">possible</span> exception of extremes in temperature, which has an effect on muzzle velocity rather than air density.

A 500 yard zero is a different kettle of fish. But most people have no need to zero a rifle at that distance or beyond, and most of them know why that matters.

If you want to confirm that, experiment with a ballistic program.
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

I don't get it: When I'm zeroed at 100 I'm also zeroed at 200... and at 300..... and 400...
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Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Musef</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You must be shooting a laser gun then if what your projectile maintains the same trajectory regardless of distance. </div></div>LMAO! I didn't think of reading that way. That's funny!
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't get it: When I'm zeroed at 100 I'm also zeroed at 200... and at 300..... and 400...
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That always gets the guys at deer camp going.
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Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

There is a difference on a 100 vs 200 zero. Look at the Hornady ballistics chart here--

http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistic-chart

When you zero at 100 then it just takes that much more dialing for you to reach the 600 or 700 range. If you are already zeroed at 200, then if shooting a shorter range, just compensate using fast turn of the turret, or aim down an inch or so. Really, what you are trying to do is get an accurate software program to tell you how to do a noncomputer task fairly well. The software can only do so much. Stay at 200 yards. If you look at your normal target range, and plug in differences from 100 to get there vs 200, you will see why it is better. Plus, at 200, you are always very close, depending on bullet, to where you need to be all the way up to about 250.

Some of this is common sense too. Of course it is going to read out weather differences from distance of 500 yards. Not trying to offend you, or say anything like that, but a lot of times, even me, have went with helper programs and tools that took me away from the basics, and when I needed the basics, I had to ditch the tool somewhat.
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

The advantage of using a 100 yard zero v. 200 is that everything is "up". With a common .308 load, and a scope with 5 mils of marks below the horizontal axis, one can simply hold high using the reticle out to 600 yards. In my experience, beyond that range one often needs to compensate for air density to get an accurate shot.

Of course, with a reticle with more marks below the axis, one can shoot farther without dialing. Whether that's desirable depends on the situation.
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lindy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...depends on the situation.</div></div>I suppose one could zero at 840, and shoot at everything using a reverse image.
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I see what he's getting at, in a military context, because if for example the mission requires a high probablility of almost all the shots being at 500-600 meters, some form of point-blank zero at 500 is an option. But even then I would zero at 100, put my 500 meter dope on the optic, and use hold-overs and hold-unders.
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lindy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The advantage of using a 100 yard zero v. 200 is that everything is "up". With a common .308 load, and a scope with 5 mils of marks below the horizontal axis, one can simply hold high using the reticle out to 600 yards. In my experience, beyond that range one often needs to compensate for air density to get an accurate shot.</div></div>
Along with not having to account for atmospheric conditions when zeroing, this is reason enough. Where I shoot, with my load I can almost get to 700 (5.1) on the reticle alone. Even at sea level and below zero still over 600.
 
Re: 100y vs: 200y zero....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Leaddog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I only shoot 600 and up. </div></div>
That makes perfect sense in that scenario.