It was doing it before it was bedded and it's still doing it after being bedded. What would cause this
1st shot is a flier on savage model 62. resolved.
- Thread starter futurerider103
- Start date
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
This is a much debated topic...is your rifle barrel free floated? Is the bedding stress free? Will it do it with different torque settings on the take down screws? Will it do it with different ammo? Clean bore? Seasoned bore? Lets just start here...as there might not be just one solution. For the heck of it try a small piece of bicycle inner tube at the front of the stock , between the barrel and stock as a forward pressure pad,and keep your take down screws at even torque, I assume you have 2 as I am not familiar with the rifle. Good luck....
This is a much debated topic...is your rifle barrel free floated? Is the bedding stress free? Will it do it with different torque settings on the take down screws? Will it do it with different ammo? Clean bore? Seasoned bore? Lets just start here...as there might not be just one solution. For the heck of it try a small piece of bicycle inner tube at the front of the stock , between the barrel and stock as a forward pressure pad,and keep your take down screws at even torque, I assume you have 2 as I am not familiar with the rifle. Good luck....
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thickstrings</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> This is a much debated topic...is your rifle barrel free floated? Is the bedding stress free? Will it do it with different torque settings on the take down screws? Will it do it with different ammo? Clean bore? Seasoned bore? Lets just start here...as there might not be just one solution. For the heck of it try a small piece of bicycle inner tube at the front of the stock , between the barrel and stock as a forward pressure pad,and keep your take down screws at even torque, I assume you have 2 as I am not familiar with the rifle. Good luck.... </div></div>
Barrel is bedded . There is only 1 takedown screw. Bore is cleam, I will try the bicycle inner tube but what would that make a difference since it's only the first shot and not all of them?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thickstrings</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> This is a much debated topic...is your rifle barrel free floated? Is the bedding stress free? Will it do it with different torque settings on the take down screws? Will it do it with different ammo? Clean bore? Seasoned bore? Lets just start here...as there might not be just one solution. For the heck of it try a small piece of bicycle inner tube at the front of the stock , between the barrel and stock as a forward pressure pad,and keep your take down screws at even torque, I assume you have 2 as I am not familiar with the rifle. Good luck.... </div></div>
Barrel is bedded . There is only 1 takedown screw. Bore is cleam, I will try the bicycle inner tube but what would that make a difference since it's only the first shot and not all of them?
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Is the cold bore shot consistantly in the same spot?
My 40X always shoots 1 Mil high at 100 yards cold and 1/2 Mil high for the second shot. Then everything stays consistant at POA after that. The action is not bedded per se but it is in an Accuracy International Chassis which basically means it is bedded and the barrel 100% free-floated. I know my rifle and I know what it will do so I do not have a problem hitting cold bore.
Ny 10/22 is consistant from the 1st shot (not bedded) but rest point about 3" from the end of the stock for the barrel in a Tacticool stock.
If it is consistant, learn it and know it. It is not a flier, it is what your gun does. If it is erratic, then it points to a problem worth solving. Obviously my opinion...
Is the cold bore shot consistantly in the same spot?
My 40X always shoots 1 Mil high at 100 yards cold and 1/2 Mil high for the second shot. Then everything stays consistant at POA after that. The action is not bedded per se but it is in an Accuracy International Chassis which basically means it is bedded and the barrel 100% free-floated. I know my rifle and I know what it will do so I do not have a problem hitting cold bore.
Ny 10/22 is consistant from the 1st shot (not bedded) but rest point about 3" from the end of the stock for the barrel in a Tacticool stock.
If it is consistant, learn it and know it. It is not a flier, it is what your gun does. If it is erratic, then it points to a problem worth solving. Obviously my opinion...
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
cold bore does hit consistanly in the same spot high to the right then after that I shoot sub quarter groups at 50yds
cold bore does hit consistanly in the same spot high to the right then after that I shoot sub quarter groups at 50yds
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Sometimes they do that. You can try to correct it, but the bottom line is that sometimes it is not a correctable issue and you can risk screwing up a half-MOA 50 yard gun by chasing it.
Personally, since it shoots so well I wouldn't jack with it.
Sometimes they do that. You can try to correct it, but the bottom line is that sometimes it is not a correctable issue and you can risk screwing up a half-MOA 50 yard gun by chasing it.
Personally, since it shoots so well I wouldn't jack with it.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
My 10/22 did the same thing until I replaced the bolt spring. I installed the Power Custom extra power spring from Midway for about $3.
My 10/22 did the same thing until I replaced the bolt spring. I installed the Power Custom extra power spring from Midway for about $3.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Is it only the first shot of the day, or is it the first shot out of the magazine every time you load it?
Is it only the first shot of the day, or is it the first shot out of the magazine every time you load it?
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Ok, that's <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">not</span></span> cold bore.
It could be caused by a few things, but the one that plagued me was that the soft lead bullets would barely enter the chamber wrong and it was scrubbing a little bit of the bullet off. This caused that first bullet to impact outside of the point of aim. Then the other four bullets would make a nice small group where they were expected to.
That problem luckily didn't last long for me, and went away as abruptly as it appeared. I didn't do anything special to fix it, but it did go away. Maybe I was loading the mag wrong or placing the bullet in the "wrong position" instead of what the rifle wanted.
That^^ probably doesn't make much sense, but we had a Ruger MkII or III (I don't remember) and if the top bullet in the magazine wasn't tilted upwards, the bolt would close on the cartridge wrong and screw up the bullet. For the record, those bullet's don't fly well at all.
I'm assuming this isn't really your problem though. It may be, so this is what I want you to try: Load up that magazine to its limit and put it into the rifle just like you would if you were at the range, (obviously, it's a loaded rifle, so treat it as such.) and <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">WITHOUT</span></span> firing, extract each and every bullet and place them in cronological order from first to last. Now inspect and compare them to unchambered cartridges and let us know if there is any differences.
If there isn't then... the only other thing I can think of would be to try using a different magazine.
Ok, that's <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">not</span></span> cold bore.
It could be caused by a few things, but the one that plagued me was that the soft lead bullets would barely enter the chamber wrong and it was scrubbing a little bit of the bullet off. This caused that first bullet to impact outside of the point of aim. Then the other four bullets would make a nice small group where they were expected to.
That problem luckily didn't last long for me, and went away as abruptly as it appeared. I didn't do anything special to fix it, but it did go away. Maybe I was loading the mag wrong or placing the bullet in the "wrong position" instead of what the rifle wanted.
That^^ probably doesn't make much sense, but we had a Ruger MkII or III (I don't remember) and if the top bullet in the magazine wasn't tilted upwards, the bolt would close on the cartridge wrong and screw up the bullet. For the record, those bullet's don't fly well at all.
I'm assuming this isn't really your problem though. It may be, so this is what I want you to try: Load up that magazine to its limit and put it into the rifle just like you would if you were at the range, (obviously, it's a loaded rifle, so treat it as such.) and <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">WITHOUT</span></span> firing, extract each and every bullet and place them in cronological order from first to last. Now inspect and compare them to unchambered cartridges and let us know if there is any differences.
If there isn't then... the only other thing I can think of would be to try using a different magazine.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Have you tried loading fewer rounds in the magazine? Loading one in the mag and shooting only one in each mag. If you know that it is the first round from each magazine then scientific method should take over here.
Have you tried loading fewer rounds in the magazine? Loading one in the mag and shooting only one in each mag. If you know that it is the first round from each magazine then scientific method should take over here.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
I will try that. I've been using 2diff 10rnd factory mags and they both do the same thing so it isn't a mag issue I wouldn't think
I will try that. I've been using 2diff 10rnd factory mags and they both do the same thing so it isn't a mag issue I wouldn't think
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried loading fewer rounds in the magazine? Loading one in the mag and shooting only one in each mag. If you know that it is the first round from each magazine then scientific method should take over here. </div></div>I have tried this and the same issue happens. Also this I'd a recent issue with a new box of federal bulk ammo so I think it may be this
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried loading fewer rounds in the magazine? Loading one in the mag and shooting only one in each mag. If you know that it is the first round from each magazine then scientific method should take over here. </div></div>I have tried this and the same issue happens. Also this I'd a recent issue with a new box of federal bulk ammo so I think it may be this
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
my first shot of day or after letting the rifle sit a while is high 3/4" and left 1/4" at 50 yards, doubled at 100 in a mkii heavy barrel and sporter barrel.
i thought it was my trigger presentation and our grip / torqueing on the first shot (me being left handed), but then fired a first round from one of those caldwell rests, still high and left.
so for every 1st shot now at around 50 yards, i hold low or dial 3/4" and right 1/4". next one is where it belongs.
my first shot of day or after letting the rifle sit a while is high 3/4" and left 1/4" at 50 yards, doubled at 100 in a mkii heavy barrel and sporter barrel.
i thought it was my trigger presentation and our grip / torqueing on the first shot (me being left handed), but then fired a first round from one of those caldwell rests, still high and left.
so for every 1st shot now at around 50 yards, i hold low or dial 3/4" and right 1/4". next one is where it belongs.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Terror made a great observation... I'm just lucky he wasn't right! LOL!! Do what TP says ^^^ and you'll be fine.
My target of choice is a golf ball suspended on a string at 100 yds. I shift POA 1 mil low for cold bore and I'm in 9/10 shots. Just part of knowing your equipment.
Watching your posts here future... you have made fantastic strides in a short amount of time. You are a great addition here! Keep up the good work!
Terror made a great observation... I'm just lucky he wasn't right! LOL!! Do what TP says ^^^ and you'll be fine.
My target of choice is a golf ball suspended on a string at 100 yds. I shift POA 1 mil low for cold bore and I'm in 9/10 shots. Just part of knowing your equipment.
Watching your posts here future... you have made fantastic strides in a short amount of time. You are a great addition here! Keep up the good work!
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
thank you very much. I try not to be the newb everyone hates but sometimes I just can't find what I'm looking for in the search fucntiong. Also how many shots will you get out of a golf ball before it's unusable? I think I'm going to try that this weekend. Also are there any ricochets because my local range states only paper targets because they don't want anyone geting hit by stray bullets.
thank you very much. I try not to be the newb everyone hates but sometimes I just can't find what I'm looking for in the search fucntiong. Also how many shots will you get out of a golf ball before it's unusable? I think I'm going to try that this weekend. Also are there any ricochets because my local range states only paper targets because they don't want anyone geting hit by stray bullets.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Haven't had any ricochets. The golf ball handles a lot more than you think! Shoot it until the stuffing get knocked out. 30-40 hits usually and the .22 sub-sonics/match go straight through.
My fun starts not with the first shot, but after it's hit and is swinging. Learning timing on something moving is a whole lot of fun! But I'll let you figure that out.
Screw a small eyelet into the ball, atttach about 2' of string and secure the heck out of the top!
Edit... the added bonus is all the centerfire guys struggling to hold "inch of pie plate" at 100 looking at you going WTF???
Haven't had any ricochets. The golf ball handles a lot more than you think! Shoot it until the stuffing get knocked out. 30-40 hits usually and the .22 sub-sonics/match go straight through.
My fun starts not with the first shot, but after it's hit and is swinging. Learning timing on something moving is a whole lot of fun! But I'll let you figure that out.
Screw a small eyelet into the ball, atttach about 2' of string and secure the heck out of the top!
Edit... the added bonus is all the centerfire guys struggling to hold "inch of pie plate" at 100 looking at you going WTF???
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
I found shooting my 10/22 in rimfire benchrest that the first and last round out of the mag were best used as sighters and not for score, I attribute it to the way they feed for some reason. When it shoots as well as it does outside of benchrest it is really hard to want to mess with anything.
The last event I shot scored a 236-8x out of 250. Not close to world class by any means. But to show up and take 2nd place only to an Anshutz with a Ruger is kinda cool. There were serveral Ani's there, I had the only auto. I think someone else on here is pretty fond of his Houge barrel also.
I found shooting my 10/22 in rimfire benchrest that the first and last round out of the mag were best used as sighters and not for score, I attribute it to the way they feed for some reason. When it shoots as well as it does outside of benchrest it is really hard to want to mess with anything.
The last event I shot scored a 236-8x out of 250. Not close to world class by any means. But to show up and take 2nd place only to an Anshutz with a Ruger is kinda cool. There were serveral Ani's there, I had the only auto. I think someone else on here is pretty fond of his Houge barrel also.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Today I loaded up both my mags for my gun and cycled the round just feeding and ejecting and then putting the rounds in order they were ejected. The first round did not have any markings on the bullet or the casing to signify that the mags are the problems
I do believe this is just with the most recent box of ammo so I'm thinking it's just that. I do understand I could just compensate for the first round but I would rather the gun fire true every time.
Today I loaded up both my mags for my gun and cycled the round just feeding and ejecting and then putting the rounds in order they were ejected. The first round did not have any markings on the bullet or the casing to signify that the mags are the problems
I do believe this is just with the most recent box of ammo so I'm thinking it's just that. I do understand I could just compensate for the first round but I would rather the gun fire true every time.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Then only one thing to do... get different ammo and try it out.
With that said. Most centerfire guns also have a different impact on the cold-bore shot as well which is why when you sight in a deer rifle you need to get it very close... then let it cool... then fire it cold bore and adjust to have the correct cold bore impact. The biggest difference between centerfire and rimfire to me is that centerfire usually likes a cooler barrel, while rimfires usually like to be "heated up."
Then only one thing to do... get different ammo and try it out.
With that said. Most centerfire guns also have a different impact on the cold-bore shot as well which is why when you sight in a deer rifle you need to get it very close... then let it cool... then fire it cold bore and adjust to have the correct cold bore impact. The biggest difference between centerfire and rimfire to me is that centerfire usually likes a cooler barrel, while rimfires usually like to be "heated up."
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: futurerider103</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It was doing it before it was bedded and it's still doing it after being bedded. What would cause this</div></div>
Different approach.
Take another rifle.
Shoot 10 rounds
Take the savage, shoot 5 rounds. What happened?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: futurerider103</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It was doing it before it was bedded and it's still doing it after being bedded. What would cause this</div></div>
Different approach.
Take another rifle.
Shoot 10 rounds
Take the savage, shoot 5 rounds. What happened?
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Well since there's no reason to suspect the magazine or feeding anymore as far as I can tell, I have to agree with Rico and say that you should try a new box of ammo and see if the problem goes away. I can't for the life of me understand why in the world only the first round out of the magazine being consistently outside of the point of aim would have anything to do with a lot of ammo though. If there were anything to do with the ammo, it would not be consistent. You would have a random flyer here and there but it would not have anything to do with the rifle in that case. Since it is in fact consistent, there must be something wrong with the rifle...
***Please bare with me on this post, it's really long and potentially boring as hell but it may just be worth your time to read***
The most recent thing to come to mind is the firing pin. I have no clue if inconsistent strikes on only the first round of each magazine load could cause a stray bullet, but this is just so strange to me that I have to think that it may be a possibility. Perhaps by removing the magazine something happens that causes the firing pin to hit harder, or lighter than on the rest of the rounds in the magazine.
Okay, now the wheels in my head are turning again as I have another hunch. Here's another experiment I would like for you to try: Similar to the one before, I would like you to load up a full magazine and fire the first round. Set this spent shell aside, lock the bolt back, remove the magazine, and without doing anything extra, insert the magazine back into the rifle, and close the bolt. Fire shot #2, set it next to #1 and keep following this process until you have emptied all 10 rounds from the magazine.
The thing about this test I’m most interested in is how deep the primer strikes are for each round. If you can, I’d also like to see a side by side comparison to spent shells that you didn't do this process with. If I’m correct in my thinking, a normal string will have shell #1 with either a deeper/shallower primer indent than shells #2-10, which should all be the same depth.
However, in the group of shells that were fired individually, we should see indents that are all the very same depth and also identical to the depth of shell #1 from the normal string.
Also, when you're doing this test, if you decide to do it that is (I'd like you to but obviously it's your time, your ammo, your rifle, you don't have to do it, it's entirely up to you.), If you could take care to make a note of bullet impacts while you're shooting your string that would be very good. I don't know about others here, but when I’m doing a test like this I like to know which impact hole is from which thing that I’ve changed. It makes the test more scientific and conclusive. Plus, you can determine if heavy primer strikes cause rounds to strike in a specific spot or another spot for light strikes and so on. It helps determine what does what and if there is any sort of consistency to the madness. Understanding things like this will bring you a better knowledge of your rifle.
____________
Pay special attention to the bullet impacts on paper, relative to where you were aiming. If my hunch is correct, you should have no 'fliers' (for lack of a more accurate term), yet the group should be off of your point of aim as much as your 1st shot 'flier' usually is. So in other words, your group should literally shift its point of impact to wherever your usual first round flier goes to.
I really hope that makes sense as it was very difficult to put that into words.
Now, if I'm correct in any of this, then the problem is definitely with the rifle and not the ammo. This test won't solve the problem, but it will either eliminate one possible explanation to why your rifle is doing this, or if my theory is proven accurate, then it will lead us to the source of your problem.
Also, while you're at the shooting range, if you can get one of your buddies to go with you have them bring one or more rimfire rifles along with them. Have them try your ammo and see if they get the same results as you do. If they don't then it isn't the ammo and it is definitively something to do with the rifle. While you're there, try out a little bit of their ammo and see if the problem is still there. Both of these steps will tell us more so if it is a problem with the ammo or with the rifle. I believe it has nothing to do with the ammo though, so my best guess says that you will still encounter the problem when using their ammo and they will see nothing similar to your problem when using your ammo. This is just my hypothesis though.
For your sake, I really do hope it is the ammo, but in reality, I don't think it has anything to do with it. I suspect your firing pin assembly or bolt is what is causing the problem at hand.
The reason I feel this way is that if you had a bad batch of ammo, you wouldn't have that 'flier' every tenth round you pull out of the box. Statistically, you may have one out of every ten rounds be a 'flier', but it wouldn't be precisely every tenth round. Sorry for the long winded post, I sort of got carried away in my thoughts again.
Respectfully,
-Dylan
Well since there's no reason to suspect the magazine or feeding anymore as far as I can tell, I have to agree with Rico and say that you should try a new box of ammo and see if the problem goes away. I can't for the life of me understand why in the world only the first round out of the magazine being consistently outside of the point of aim would have anything to do with a lot of ammo though. If there were anything to do with the ammo, it would not be consistent. You would have a random flyer here and there but it would not have anything to do with the rifle in that case. Since it is in fact consistent, there must be something wrong with the rifle...
***Please bare with me on this post, it's really long and potentially boring as hell but it may just be worth your time to read***
The most recent thing to come to mind is the firing pin. I have no clue if inconsistent strikes on only the first round of each magazine load could cause a stray bullet, but this is just so strange to me that I have to think that it may be a possibility. Perhaps by removing the magazine something happens that causes the firing pin to hit harder, or lighter than on the rest of the rounds in the magazine.
Okay, now the wheels in my head are turning again as I have another hunch. Here's another experiment I would like for you to try: Similar to the one before, I would like you to load up a full magazine and fire the first round. Set this spent shell aside, lock the bolt back, remove the magazine, and without doing anything extra, insert the magazine back into the rifle, and close the bolt. Fire shot #2, set it next to #1 and keep following this process until you have emptied all 10 rounds from the magazine.
The thing about this test I’m most interested in is how deep the primer strikes are for each round. If you can, I’d also like to see a side by side comparison to spent shells that you didn't do this process with. If I’m correct in my thinking, a normal string will have shell #1 with either a deeper/shallower primer indent than shells #2-10, which should all be the same depth.
However, in the group of shells that were fired individually, we should see indents that are all the very same depth and also identical to the depth of shell #1 from the normal string.
Also, when you're doing this test, if you decide to do it that is (I'd like you to but obviously it's your time, your ammo, your rifle, you don't have to do it, it's entirely up to you.), If you could take care to make a note of bullet impacts while you're shooting your string that would be very good. I don't know about others here, but when I’m doing a test like this I like to know which impact hole is from which thing that I’ve changed. It makes the test more scientific and conclusive. Plus, you can determine if heavy primer strikes cause rounds to strike in a specific spot or another spot for light strikes and so on. It helps determine what does what and if there is any sort of consistency to the madness. Understanding things like this will bring you a better knowledge of your rifle.
____________
Pay special attention to the bullet impacts on paper, relative to where you were aiming. If my hunch is correct, you should have no 'fliers' (for lack of a more accurate term), yet the group should be off of your point of aim as much as your 1st shot 'flier' usually is. So in other words, your group should literally shift its point of impact to wherever your usual first round flier goes to.
I really hope that makes sense as it was very difficult to put that into words.
Now, if I'm correct in any of this, then the problem is definitely with the rifle and not the ammo. This test won't solve the problem, but it will either eliminate one possible explanation to why your rifle is doing this, or if my theory is proven accurate, then it will lead us to the source of your problem.
Also, while you're at the shooting range, if you can get one of your buddies to go with you have them bring one or more rimfire rifles along with them. Have them try your ammo and see if they get the same results as you do. If they don't then it isn't the ammo and it is definitively something to do with the rifle. While you're there, try out a little bit of their ammo and see if the problem is still there. Both of these steps will tell us more so if it is a problem with the ammo or with the rifle. I believe it has nothing to do with the ammo though, so my best guess says that you will still encounter the problem when using their ammo and they will see nothing similar to your problem when using your ammo. This is just my hypothesis though.
For your sake, I really do hope it is the ammo, but in reality, I don't think it has anything to do with it. I suspect your firing pin assembly or bolt is what is causing the problem at hand.
The reason I feel this way is that if you had a bad batch of ammo, you wouldn't have that 'flier' every tenth round you pull out of the box. Statistically, you may have one out of every ten rounds be a 'flier', but it wouldn't be precisely every tenth round. Sorry for the long winded post, I sort of got carried away in my thoughts again.
Respectfully,
-Dylan
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
I'm going to the range this weekend so ill do this then. My current gun is a model 62 savage so it's a semi auto so someone will have to chase the spent round. But I'll do my best to mark the holes..
I'm going to the range this weekend so ill do this then. My current gun is a model 62 savage so it's a semi auto so someone will have to chase the spent round. But I'll do my best to mark the holes..
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
You can take a pad of paper and a pencil and just sketch up a target resembling the one you're shooting at (or use an actual one) and mark relative hole placement. If your rifle groups very well (shots often touching) then you may have more of an issue after a few shots and at that point continuing to keep track isn't important unless one goes out of the ragged grouping. Then just mark bullet holes on the actual target with numbers by cross analyzing the notes you took.
As far as chasing the spent round, hopefully your buddy (assuming you can get one to meet you there) can help you out with this.
You can take a pad of paper and a pencil and just sketch up a target resembling the one you're shooting at (or use an actual one) and mark relative hole placement. If your rifle groups very well (shots often touching) then you may have more of an issue after a few shots and at that point continuing to keep track isn't important unless one goes out of the ragged grouping. Then just mark bullet holes on the actual target with numbers by cross analyzing the notes you took.
As far as chasing the spent round, hopefully your buddy (assuming you can get one to meet you there) can help you out with this.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
That's what I was planning on doing just sketching a estimate then get the target and mark them down. We should be fine we go every weekend
That's what I was planning on doing just sketching a estimate then get the target and mark them down. We should be fine we go every weekend
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Hey... thinking about what Terror said... do you have 2 mags? What I was thinking is go through the first magazine and make sure the group has "settled" then drop the mag, insert the other one with the barrel still "warm" and see what happens.
Further (did we go over this?) try short loading your mag in case the mag is just a little tight fully loaded. This is common with AR mags... load a 30 rounder and sometimes the first round loads hard. For rifle comps I now use 30-round mags loaded with 25 rounds "just in case."
Hey... thinking about what Terror said... do you have 2 mags? What I was thinking is go through the first magazine and make sure the group has "settled" then drop the mag, insert the other one with the barrel still "warm" and see what happens.
Further (did we go over this?) try short loading your mag in case the mag is just a little tight fully loaded. This is common with AR mags... load a 30 rounder and sometimes the first round loads hard. For rifle comps I now use 30-round mags loaded with 25 rounds "just in case."
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Last night when I got home from work I decided to give the gun a good cleaning not just the barrel. Holy crap. I've owned the gun 14 or 15 years and it has never been taken apart side from taking the stock off to bed it. My bolt was stuck in the receiver but would move the normal cycling distance just no further, the firing pin was stuck in the bolt and had to be persuaded out. I finally got it out with a lot of lube and cleaned everything up. Wouldn't you know it the bolt is silver not black. Well now the slide cycles a lot another. I'll find out sat if it made any difference
Last night when I got home from work I decided to give the gun a good cleaning not just the barrel. Holy crap. I've owned the gun 14 or 15 years and it has never been taken apart side from taking the stock off to bed it. My bolt was stuck in the receiver but would move the normal cycling distance just no further, the firing pin was stuck in the bolt and had to be persuaded out. I finally got it out with a lot of lube and cleaned everything up. Wouldn't you know it the bolt is silver not black. Well now the slide cycles a lot another. I'll find out sat if it made any difference
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Used the remaining ammo from the same box. Apparently the deep cleaning resolved the issue. These are at 50yds and was doing consistent sub quarter size groups.
Btw this is the range ay my parents house. Yea can't see nothing can ya.
First time cleaned out in 2 yrs
He is what we have
Anyways here are the results
Used the remaining ammo from the same box. Apparently the deep cleaning resolved the issue. These are at 50yds and was doing consistent sub quarter size groups.
Btw this is the range ay my parents house. Yea can't see nothing can ya.
First time cleaned out in 2 yrs
He is what we have
Anyways here are the results
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
I'm glad you didn't have to go through my process!
I'm glad you didn't have to go through my process!
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
It wouldn't have mattered. Shooting is shooting and it's always fun. I'm just glad it works like it's supposed to. Going shooting again today. Hopefully everything is as it should be still.
It wouldn't have mattered. Shooting is shooting and it's always fun. I'm just glad it works like it's supposed to. Going shooting again today. Hopefully everything is as it should be still.
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Your Moms going to be PISSED when she sees her comforter out there! LMAO!!!
Good stuff. Glad to hear it was something minor like maintaining your rifle - ;-P
Your Moms going to be PISSED when she sees her comforter out there! LMAO!!!
Good stuff. Glad to hear it was something minor like maintaining your rifle - ;-P
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Have you tried not using the clip and just loading rounds by hand 1 at a time ??
Have you tried not using the clip and just loading rounds by hand 1 at a time ??
Re: first shot usually is a flier on savage model 62
Oops I see the problem has been resolved. Went to eat supper and did not finish the thread until after. Glad the problem is resolved. Mags do weird things with an auto loader, shave lead and such but a bolt you would think would not have an issue like that unless it was being worked really fast
Oops I see the problem has been resolved. Went to eat supper and did not finish the thread until after. Glad the problem is resolved. Mags do weird things with an auto loader, shave lead and such but a bolt you would think would not have an issue like that unless it was being worked really fast
