I'm in the process of building my first bolt gun as a competiton rifle. I've debated building a rimfire rifle to match it as a trainer. Besides not using them on the same day is there any negative to swapping back and forth on one chassis? Assuming both have a 700 footprint of course. Also assuming that the chassis has an adjustable mag catch.
2 rifles, one chassis?
- Thread starter Bobinmi
- Start date
Just the ammo/life you will lose checking zero after rebolt it back up.
Make sure your using a torque wrench every time to aid in maintaining consistency.
Eventually you get tired of the bullshit and hopefully acquire the funds to get another affordable option or a direct copy if that's what floats your boat.
Make sure your using a torque wrench every time to aid in maintaining consistency.
Eventually you get tired of the bullshit and hopefully acquire the funds to get another affordable option or a direct copy if that's what floats your boat.
I don't know. I had my Tikka 223 in the original stock when I fitted the scope and zeroed it. A few months later I placed it in a MDT XRS stock. About a year later I fitted it into a TXPS chassis. I don't have a bit for my torque wrench that is long enough so just tightening by hand witha T-handle allen wrench. Granted, I don't shoot bench rest, but I did not have to zero the scope again.
You can certainly do it.
It would be annoying to have to constantly re-zero. If the zero's are repeatable, you could record the zero shift and that would make life a bit easier.
It would be annoying to have to constantly re-zero. If the zero's are repeatable, you could record the zero shift and that would make life a bit easier.
I don't see a 22lr as a trainer. It's essentially like shooting a bb gun. Yes there are things you get to practice, building postion, natural poa, wind reading. However recoil isn't present, 60k psi explosion isn't present. It's a different place mentally. I know a lot of high level prs shooters train with 65cm and 308 to get better at follow through and spotting impacts with better recoil management. A 22 trainer could teach bad habits, as I've seen a lot of guys running largely free recoil with them.
IMO I think a .22lr could be valuable for practice with the right intentionality and use.
But a .308 is going to be a much better trainer for managing recoil and other fundamentals.
I understand what you're saying. However, I have access to rimfire prs style matches every weekend within a 20 minute drive from my house. Im very green when it comes to gaming with a rifle and I'm actually thinking I should burn out a 308 barrel even for competition until I get to a point of proficiency when driving the gun and spotting shots. The rimfire build is more for getting me used to the shooting on a clock and I've got a garden that could use some defending from the roof.
I wouldn't go 308 for match rig, that's a serious ballistic handicap. The nice thing about 308 is they last forever, 8k rounds. I pondered getting one chambered, but have since moved to a 15# 65 creedmoor as I feel it recoils harder than my buddies 20# 308. Plus I lend it out to new shooters at matches. Having a rimfire match every Saturday that close would prob draw me in too. I started shooting centerfire field matches/prs 3 years ago, and tried taking a keen to nrl22, shot 6 matches and it's just not the same to me. Now last fall my lady shot a nrl22X match(my shoulder was recovering from surgery) and that looked fun, targets on average were 120-275y, and the longest stages had steel out to 600y I think. That was pretty neat.
I saw a video once where these 2 girls had to share just the 1 cup... Ever since then I've been VERY hesitant with anything using that same dangerous ratio.
#ShooterBeware
#ShooterBeware
Reminds me of the news links you get about a flashy headline, and it's that mofo Barry!
I say do it, especially if you have that kind of access to rimfire matches. I originally got a .22 as a “trainer” to get better at centerfire rifle shooting and shoot the odd NRL22 match here and there, but a year and a half later I find myself shooting more rimfire matches than I do centerfire PRS. Shooting rimfire PRS or NRL22 matches will help your centerfire game for exactly the reasons you said -shooting on the clock. It’ll also get you used to managing your work flow and learning how to build solid positions from a variety or props (tank traps, roof tops, tires, ladder rungs, barricades, etc.). Obviously it doesn’t simulate recoil or trying to find small targets at long distances (most rimfire matches are <300 yds) but there are still a lot of things to learn and get gooder at.
As far as sharing one chassis between the two, yeah I don’t see why it can’t be done especially if you only shoot a centerfire match a few times a year and have a chance to check zero prior to the match. But I suspect that if you did go down this path you’d end up with a dedicated chassis per rifle before too long. The cool thing is you can use most of the accessories for both rifles (Kestrel, bipod, LRF, bags, etc.)
@Bobinmi
I have two XYLO chassis and now 5 different barreled actions (with their own scopes) that I swap between them. Honestly, whatever is my primary gun that season, I set it up and leave it - for convenience and speed. However, I have never had an issue with the barreled actions holding/repeating zero. I use a fix-it stick to torque my action screws and I follow the same procedure every time I install a barreled action. This has yielded good results for me.
One of the barreled actions is a Vudoo 22 that I have used for a trainer rifle, but it spends most of it's time in a McMillan fiberglass stock when I carry it squirrel hunting. No issues going from one stock/chassis to the other, the barreled actions maintain zero.
I did the switch barrel thing for a while, and it was cost effective, but I always ended up with the wrong barrel on the action the night before the match and no way to confirm zero. Swapping barreled actions I wouldn't be afraid to shoot without confirming zero - after having done it more than a few times. Also, if you find you don't like swapping them out...save up an buy another one. Starting with only one chassis/stock won't hold you back too long and you'll find out if it works for you or not. Do whatever you can to get as many rounds down range as possible, especially in competition - then you'll know what you want and need.
Someone posted a pic of you up on the roof defending the garden:
Bonus points if you know the cult 80's movie!
Good Luck,
R
I have two XYLO chassis and now 5 different barreled actions (with their own scopes) that I swap between them. Honestly, whatever is my primary gun that season, I set it up and leave it - for convenience and speed. However, I have never had an issue with the barreled actions holding/repeating zero. I use a fix-it stick to torque my action screws and I follow the same procedure every time I install a barreled action. This has yielded good results for me.
One of the barreled actions is a Vudoo 22 that I have used for a trainer rifle, but it spends most of it's time in a McMillan fiberglass stock when I carry it squirrel hunting. No issues going from one stock/chassis to the other, the barreled actions maintain zero.
I did the switch barrel thing for a while, and it was cost effective, but I always ended up with the wrong barrel on the action the night before the match and no way to confirm zero. Swapping barreled actions I wouldn't be afraid to shoot without confirming zero - after having done it more than a few times. Also, if you find you don't like swapping them out...save up an buy another one. Starting with only one chassis/stock won't hold you back too long and you'll find out if it works for you or not. Do whatever you can to get as many rounds down range as possible, especially in competition - then you'll know what you want and need.
Someone posted a pic of you up on the roof defending the garden:
Bonus points if you know the cult 80's movie!
Good Luck,
R
So this might be a dumb question...
It needs re-zeroed just from swapping chassis?
Is that assuming that there's one optic?
If there was a dedicated optic for each, does it still need re-zeroed when swapped into the chassis? Maybe I'm missing something. Sort of just thinking out loud-ish.
It needs re-zeroed just from swapping chassis?
Is that assuming that there's one optic?
If there was a dedicated optic for each, does it still need re-zeroed when swapped into the chassis? Maybe I'm missing something. Sort of just thinking out loud-ish.
The Burbs....Bruce Dern@Bobinmi
I have two XYLO chassis and now 5 different barreled actions (with their own scopes) that I swap between them. Honestly, whatever is my primary gun that season, I set it up and leave it - for convenience and speed. However, I have never had an issue with the barreled actions holding/repeating zero. I use a fix-it stick to torque my action screws and I follow the same procedure every time I install a barreled action. This has yielded good results for me.
One of the barreled actions is a Vudoo 22 that I have used for a trainer rifle, but it spends most of it's time in a McMillan fiberglass stock when I carry it squirrel hunting. No issues going from one stock/chassis to the other, the barreled actions maintain zero.
I did the switch barrel thing for a while, and it was cost effective, but I always ended up with the wrong barrel on the action the night before the match and no way to confirm zero. Swapping barreled actions I wouldn't be afraid to shoot without confirming zero - after having done it more than a few times. Also, if you find you don't like swapping them out...save up an buy another one. Starting with only one chassis/stock won't hold you back too long and you'll find out if it works for you or not. Do whatever you can to get as many rounds down range as possible, especially in competition - then you'll know what you want and need.
Someone posted a pic of you up on the roof defending the garden:
Bonus points if you know the cult 80's movie!
Good Luck,
R
It is not that simple. Your mileage may vary. I think if you have a flexible action, uneven or flexible bedding area or a stock/chassis touching the barrel you most likely will have a noticeable zero shift. Rigid actions, with a good fit in the stock/chassis and free-floated barrel probably not.
I have three target rifles with 32" barrels. Because I have long arms the stocks are quite long as well. End result is that my rifles cannot fit the safe that I have. Every time I have to remove the barreled action from the stock before lockng the action away. The 223 fits with stock as is provided I remove the scope. I have not found the need to rezero any of the sights.
To make things more interesting, I do not travel with competition sights or scope fitted to any of my rifles. I fit and remove sights and scope from the rifles at the range. Even doing that, I have not had the need to rezero anything.
Maybe I do not shoot well enough to have noticed a change in zero.
I have three target rifles with 32" barrels. Because I have long arms the stocks are quite long as well. End result is that my rifles cannot fit the safe that I have. Every time I have to remove the barreled action from the stock before lockng the action away. The 223 fits with stock as is provided I remove the scope. I have not found the need to rezero any of the sights.
To make things more interesting, I do not travel with competition sights or scope fitted to any of my rifles. I fit and remove sights and scope from the rifles at the range. Even doing that, I have not had the need to rezero anything.
Maybe I do not shoot well enough to have noticed a change in zero.
I'll be doing the same thing when I use my mdt acc that I built for my short action creedmoor . after I have my 7mm saum short action made I'll just remove the bolts holding my action on to the chassis and dropping the 7 saum in it's place . yes that will mean I have to get another action , barrel and trigger and another scope , but in my mind that's not too bad best of luck with yours .
Just build 2 guns. The .22 matches will be a lot of fun and the .308 for real gun matches.
I recently bought a KRG Bravo for my 223 Tikka.
The rifle shot exactly the same POI in the new chassis as it did in the original stock.
I've fully disassembled my rifles loads of times after shooting a match in heavy rain, and have never noticed a POI shift on re-assembly.
There may well have been a small shift but not enough for me to notice.
I say go ahead and try it, you might get lucky. There's nothing to lose by trying it out.
The rifle shot exactly the same POI in the new chassis as it did in the original stock.
I've fully disassembled my rifles loads of times after shooting a match in heavy rain, and have never noticed a POI shift on re-assembly.
There may well have been a small shift but not enough for me to notice.
I say go ahead and try it, you might get lucky. There's nothing to lose by trying it out.
