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Re: 20", 24", or 26"
I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank the everyone involved for the links and info. My new Rem 308 is at the smith right now and I called him to have the 26" stock barrel cut to 22". It's the stock barrel, but it's a start for a shooter, I'm not a pro, just enjoy the shooting (A wannabe I guess). This sight is full of great info, I appreciate the wisdom!
I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank the everyone involved for the links and info. My new Rem 308 is at the smith right now and I called him to have the 26" stock barrel cut to 22". It's the stock barrel, but it's a start for a shooter, I'm not a pro, just enjoy the shooting (A wannabe I guess). This sight is full of great info, I appreciate the wisdom!
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
22 Should suit you well.. I have a GAP with 22" and it has worked wonderfully thus far
22 Should suit you well.. I have a GAP with 22" and it has worked wonderfully thus far
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDECK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">More was learned from this thread because at least one member wasnt afraid to get schooled.</div></div>
Exactly! Thank you TDECK, I've learned a lot from this thread, and it wouldn't have happened w/o someone with an alternate theory posting up. So I have a question, how much should I shorten my 26" barrel on my 700PSS in .308? Is barrel weight/thickness/contour factored into the length vs. accuracy/fps argument? I have a #5 contour barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDECK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">More was learned from this thread because at least one member wasnt afraid to get schooled.</div></div>
Exactly! Thank you TDECK, I've learned a lot from this thread, and it wouldn't have happened w/o someone with an alternate theory posting up. So I have a question, how much should I shorten my 26" barrel on my 700PSS in .308? Is barrel weight/thickness/contour factored into the length vs. accuracy/fps argument? I have a #5 contour barrel.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris_Neal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank the everyone involved for the links and info. My new Rem 308 is at the smith right now and I called him to have the 26" stock barrel cut to 22". It's the stock barrel, but it's a start for a shooter, I'm not a pro, just enjoy the shooting (A wannabe I guess). This sight is full of great info, I appreciate the wisdom! </div></div>
Not sure where you live but you might as well get him to thread it for you as well in case you ever pick up a suppressor. The guy that called them addictive in the thread was right, once you buy one you will want one on everything.
I have a 700P that is cut to 20" with the factory barrel and i have no issues getting to 1k. You may be subsonic on factory ammo which isn't a huge deal but it annoys some people.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris_Neal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank the everyone involved for the links and info. My new Rem 308 is at the smith right now and I called him to have the 26" stock barrel cut to 22". It's the stock barrel, but it's a start for a shooter, I'm not a pro, just enjoy the shooting (A wannabe I guess). This sight is full of great info, I appreciate the wisdom! </div></div>
Not sure where you live but you might as well get him to thread it for you as well in case you ever pick up a suppressor. The guy that called them addictive in the thread was right, once you buy one you will want one on everything.
I have a 700P that is cut to 20" with the factory barrel and i have no issues getting to 1k. You may be subsonic on factory ammo which isn't a huge deal but it annoys some people.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tydirian</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not sure where you live but you might as well get him to thread it for you as well in case you ever pick up a suppressor. The guy that called them addictive in the thread was right, once you buy one you will want one on everything.
I have a 700P that is cut to 20" with the factory barrel and i have no issues getting to 1k. You may be subsonic on factory ammo which isn't a huge deal but it annoys some people. </div></div>
I'm in Illinois, so I'm lucky to still be able to buy a gun. Maybe if I move to Florida I will get one!
I'm having a brake put on it, mainly because I like the look. (Again, wannabe
) So maybe I can find a suppressor at some point in my future. I still don't see why suppressors are a huge deal that the Gov has to clamp on them.... Too much Hollywood? Early Gangsters?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tydirian</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not sure where you live but you might as well get him to thread it for you as well in case you ever pick up a suppressor. The guy that called them addictive in the thread was right, once you buy one you will want one on everything.
I have a 700P that is cut to 20" with the factory barrel and i have no issues getting to 1k. You may be subsonic on factory ammo which isn't a huge deal but it annoys some people. </div></div>
I'm in Illinois, so I'm lucky to still be able to buy a gun. Maybe if I move to Florida I will get one!
I'm having a brake put on it, mainly because I like the look. (Again, wannabe
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
Resurrecting this one again! I just picked up a Bartlein SS 5R M40 contour blank with 1:11.25" twist to replace my stock Rem PSS barrel.
Gonna cut it and have it threaded for a future suppressor. I'm thinking 20" or 21.75" based on that article posted on pg. 1 of this thread. Any thoughts for a Bartlein in .308 pushing 175smk's?
And since I know jack about suppressors...are they all threaded the same, or do I need to know which one I'll get for a thread job?
Resurrecting this one again! I just picked up a Bartlein SS 5R M40 contour blank with 1:11.25" twist to replace my stock Rem PSS barrel.
Gonna cut it and have it threaded for a future suppressor. I'm thinking 20" or 21.75" based on that article posted on pg. 1 of this thread. Any thoughts for a Bartlein in .308 pushing 175smk's?
And since I know jack about suppressors...are they all threaded the same, or do I need to know which one I'll get for a thread job?
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
This behavior is dependent not on the parent case anywhere near as much as the overbore ratio and bullet sectional density (normalized bullet weight to bore size).
A highly overbore case like the 300 RUM does poorly with a 20" tube, the loss in velocity is huge compared to running a 26 or a 28" tube, especially with the heavy bullets that case is aimed to push.
The 223 and 308 however are very similar in bullet sectional density as well as overbore ratio and have similar tendencies for powder burn rates and barrel lengths.
The 30-06 has a significantly higher overbore ratio than the 308 (appx 30%) and the ability to shoot higher sectional density bullets is much better (no replacement for displacement right?). So while a 30-06 will give you a solid performance boost over the 308, if you cut the barrel down to 20" you're going to realize a lot less of that performance potential than if you went 24-26" long.
The first question to answer is what you want to do with that barrel/rifle. If a long shot on that platform is 600-800yd and you'll be using it as a working gun from a vehicle or deploying with it then the trend of shorter works out well for scoring hits.
If you're going to do a lot of longer distance shooting with it then I'd suggest going to a longer barrel to keep those speeds up and assist any way you can with the performance.
Just like a 16" 308 is less than optimal at 1000+yd, a 20" 30-06 is going to flounder when the distances cross to 4 digits, but it will still hit the target with a good shooter.
A 24" barrel will net you about 100fps over the 20".
The barrel length has little to do with the precision level of a rifle in my opinion. Take a look at what Tom Sarver did with a 30" barrel on his 300 Hulk... it set 2 world records.
A 20" truck axle is about 4x's stiffer in bending than a 30" truck axle is, but the groups routinely shot in BR and F class at 1000yd don't lie.
The comment "we're not shooting that game" comes up. Yeah, that's true. We're usually scoring hits in a digital manner, so rubbing your worry stone over a 20" barrel being more accurate than a 22 or 24" barrel is a waste of time.
Pick the barrel length based on what you're going to do with the rifle, and by that I mean how "handy" it needs to be.
ETA: The magic 21.75" number is a snake oil rule, plain and simple.
This behavior is dependent not on the parent case anywhere near as much as the overbore ratio and bullet sectional density (normalized bullet weight to bore size).
A highly overbore case like the 300 RUM does poorly with a 20" tube, the loss in velocity is huge compared to running a 26 or a 28" tube, especially with the heavy bullets that case is aimed to push.
The 223 and 308 however are very similar in bullet sectional density as well as overbore ratio and have similar tendencies for powder burn rates and barrel lengths.
The 30-06 has a significantly higher overbore ratio than the 308 (appx 30%) and the ability to shoot higher sectional density bullets is much better (no replacement for displacement right?). So while a 30-06 will give you a solid performance boost over the 308, if you cut the barrel down to 20" you're going to realize a lot less of that performance potential than if you went 24-26" long.
The first question to answer is what you want to do with that barrel/rifle. If a long shot on that platform is 600-800yd and you'll be using it as a working gun from a vehicle or deploying with it then the trend of shorter works out well for scoring hits.
If you're going to do a lot of longer distance shooting with it then I'd suggest going to a longer barrel to keep those speeds up and assist any way you can with the performance.
Just like a 16" 308 is less than optimal at 1000+yd, a 20" 30-06 is going to flounder when the distances cross to 4 digits, but it will still hit the target with a good shooter.
A 24" barrel will net you about 100fps over the 20".
The barrel length has little to do with the precision level of a rifle in my opinion. Take a look at what Tom Sarver did with a 30" barrel on his 300 Hulk... it set 2 world records.
A 20" truck axle is about 4x's stiffer in bending than a 30" truck axle is, but the groups routinely shot in BR and F class at 1000yd don't lie.
The comment "we're not shooting that game" comes up. Yeah, that's true. We're usually scoring hits in a digital manner, so rubbing your worry stone over a 20" barrel being more accurate than a 22 or 24" barrel is a waste of time.
Pick the barrel length based on what you're going to do with the rifle, and by that I mean how "handy" it needs to be.
ETA: The magic 21.75" number is a snake oil rule, plain and simple.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
Different strokes for different folks. Burn rate , Fps ,Barrel harmonics and whip will get you more accurate at long distances. Depends on you Deployment i guess.25" on my 6.5 mm's is ideal and not to long for matches. Look at the lengths on current military weapons.!!
Different strokes for different folks. Burn rate , Fps ,Barrel harmonics and whip will get you more accurate at long distances. Depends on you Deployment i guess.25" on my 6.5 mm's is ideal and not to long for matches. Look at the lengths on current military weapons.!!
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
I guess what I was getting at or asking was, does 20" or 21.75" or 22" make much, if any difference? Probably not. I'll be shooting purchased ammo (Southwest) out of a M40 contour SS Bartlein chambered in .308 and want to shoot at least to 600 but of course occasionally to 1k. Someday I can see putting a can on it and using it in comps.
My thinking is maneuverability and weight issues so I am certain I'll cut it to 20". If that doesn't work I'll send it in and see if my smith can cut it longer for me.
Interesting discussion none-the-less.
I guess what I was getting at or asking was, does 20" or 21.75" or 22" make much, if any difference? Probably not. I'll be shooting purchased ammo (Southwest) out of a M40 contour SS Bartlein chambered in .308 and want to shoot at least to 600 but of course occasionally to 1k. Someday I can see putting a can on it and using it in comps.
My thinking is maneuverability and weight issues so I am certain I'll cut it to 20". If that doesn't work I'll send it in and see if my smith can cut it longer for me.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ridgerunner665</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
My understanding of how that works is that the pressure released when the bullet exits the muzzle is lower on longer barrels, which results in slightly less muzzle blast (e.g. 10,000 psi for a 20 inch - 8,000 psi for a 24 inch... <span style="text-decoration: underline">those are not actual pressures...just numbers I pulled out of my head as an example of what I mean</span>)
Now, I can see how powder selection (burn rate) can figure into this to a degree...but I still think my 20" is louder than my 22" with the same loads. (both 308's...one is a factory SPS Tactical, the other had a 22" Shilen barrel, it is waiting on a new barrel...probably going to be a 20" Shilen)
If I'm wrong on that...please educate me. </div></div>
Awesome post to resurrect...I had my 26" varmint 700 cut to 22" after reading this over a year ago...and love it. Curious comment above, to which no one responded. Each time I consider cutting again--to 19"--I recall that...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ridgerunner665</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
My understanding of how that works is that the pressure released when the bullet exits the muzzle is lower on longer barrels, which results in slightly less muzzle blast (e.g. 10,000 psi for a 20 inch - 8,000 psi for a 24 inch... <span style="text-decoration: underline">those are not actual pressures...just numbers I pulled out of my head as an example of what I mean</span>)
Now, I can see how powder selection (burn rate) can figure into this to a degree...but I still think my 20" is louder than my 22" with the same loads. (both 308's...one is a factory SPS Tactical, the other had a 22" Shilen barrel, it is waiting on a new barrel...probably going to be a 20" Shilen)
If I'm wrong on that...please educate me. </div></div>
Awesome post to resurrect...I had my 26" varmint 700 cut to 22" after reading this over a year ago...and love it. Curious comment above, to which no one responded. Each time I consider cutting again--to 19"--I recall that...
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: carbinero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ridgerunner665</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
My understanding of how that works is that the pressure released when the bullet exits the muzzle is lower on longer barrels, which results in slightly less muzzle blast (e.g. 10,000 psi for a 20 inch - 8,000 psi for a 24 inch... <span style="text-decoration: underline">those are not actual pressures...just numbers I pulled out of my head as an example of what I mean</span>)
Now, I can see how powder selection (burn rate) can figure into this to a degree...but I still think my 20" is louder than my 22" with the same loads. (both 308's...one is a factory SPS Tactical, the other had a 22" Shilen barrel, it is waiting on a new barrel...probably going to be a 20" Shilen)
If I'm wrong on that...please educate me. </div></div>
Awesome post to resurrect...I had my 26" varmint 700 cut to 22" after reading this over a year ago...and love it. Curious comment above, to which no one responded. Each time I consider cutting again--to 19"--I recall that... </div></div>
Carbinero,
Over my near 40 year shooting career I have owned .308's w/26", 24", 23", 22", 20", and 19" barrels. Anecdotally, yes, I've noticed slightly greater muzzle blast with the shorter barrels. Practically, as in shooting them, so what. The muzzle blast from the 19" barreled 308, was not so terribly unpleasant, nor did it affect hitting the target in any detrimental way.
I favor 23" barrels with standard non-magnum cartridges. I find that length to be a good compromise, between handiness, blast and performance, and aesthetically pleasing to my eye in most stocks. But that's just me.
But short barrels (20" or less) can be very handy in tight quarters, and really give up little in performance to longer .308's, and what you lose in velocity, and get in slightly great blast, is really of small consequence, in the greater scheme of things.
But only cut your 22" barrel back to 19" if you need the additional handiness, or if your contemplating suppressing it, and/or your use and application can benefit from the shorter length, and lighter weight. If not what's the point??
Just because you can, does not mean it is necessarily a good idea....Rather what you need to accomplish with your rifle should drive the barrel length question, not fashion, and the current vogue.
There are good reasons for choosing a say 30" barreled Palma 308, as there are for choosing a 19" barreled tactical 308's.
Hope that answers your question.
Bob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: carbinero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ridgerunner665</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
My understanding of how that works is that the pressure released when the bullet exits the muzzle is lower on longer barrels, which results in slightly less muzzle blast (e.g. 10,000 psi for a 20 inch - 8,000 psi for a 24 inch... <span style="text-decoration: underline">those are not actual pressures...just numbers I pulled out of my head as an example of what I mean</span>)
Now, I can see how powder selection (burn rate) can figure into this to a degree...but I still think my 20" is louder than my 22" with the same loads. (both 308's...one is a factory SPS Tactical, the other had a 22" Shilen barrel, it is waiting on a new barrel...probably going to be a 20" Shilen)
If I'm wrong on that...please educate me. </div></div>
Awesome post to resurrect...I had my 26" varmint 700 cut to 22" after reading this over a year ago...and love it. Curious comment above, to which no one responded. Each time I consider cutting again--to 19"--I recall that... </div></div>
Carbinero,
Over my near 40 year shooting career I have owned .308's w/26", 24", 23", 22", 20", and 19" barrels. Anecdotally, yes, I've noticed slightly greater muzzle blast with the shorter barrels. Practically, as in shooting them, so what. The muzzle blast from the 19" barreled 308, was not so terribly unpleasant, nor did it affect hitting the target in any detrimental way.
I favor 23" barrels with standard non-magnum cartridges. I find that length to be a good compromise, between handiness, blast and performance, and aesthetically pleasing to my eye in most stocks. But that's just me.
But short barrels (20" or less) can be very handy in tight quarters, and really give up little in performance to longer .308's, and what you lose in velocity, and get in slightly great blast, is really of small consequence, in the greater scheme of things.
But only cut your 22" barrel back to 19" if you need the additional handiness, or if your contemplating suppressing it, and/or your use and application can benefit from the shorter length, and lighter weight. If not what's the point??
Just because you can, does not mean it is necessarily a good idea....Rather what you need to accomplish with your rifle should drive the barrel length question, not fashion, and the current vogue.
There are good reasons for choosing a say 30" barreled Palma 308, as there are for choosing a 19" barreled tactical 308's.
Hope that answers your question.
Bob
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
In the past the issue between, say a 24" and 20" was definitely one of velocity, and especially as it relates to weather. In colder climates at sea level you lose a lot. Even more so using a 168gr bullet.
But that is no longer the case.
Today we have a lot of better loads, whether hand loads or factory loads with new powders. 22", (21.75") was used to work under any condition even at sea level. This length even with the weakest load usually gave you enough to reach 1000 yards without any ill effects even in colder temperatures at sea level. <span style="font-style: italic">(generally you want to stay above 1200fps at 1000 yards) </span>
<span style="font-weight: bold">Step into 21st century, particularly the last 2 years. </span> New powders are adding velocity to shorter length barrels in ways that only happened with endless load development. An 20" 308 Semi Automatic now has the ability to get 2650fps from a factory / military load. <span style="font-style: italic">(Mk316) </span> Previous M118LR loads hovered around 2550fps from the same rifle. This is significant for sea level shooting, and translates to even better performance from a 22" barrel. My last testing of a new Cor Bon load produced 2770fps out of my 22" Valkyrie... unheard of even out of most factory 26" barrels.
Speed is not the whole story. While it does provide a measurable advantage in drop and wind drift, not everyone can exploit this advantage and it is not a magical solution to persons shooting. Also not everyone needs more velocity to be successful, conditions matter. Unless you are well inside the top 20% of the world's top shooters will you probably won't be able to exploit this consistently. There are always one off exceptions where today you'll succeed and tomorrow you won't, that is because the advantage will always go to the one who knows his rifle data better than the other guy and consistently execute the fundamentals from shot to shot. I shot my 22" Werewolf 308 with factory ammo and tied the field for 2nd place at a local competition recently. The field was overwhelming tipped towards the 6.5mm bullet. I know my dope and executed it well based on the changes. Out of 25 shooters, I was only one of only 5 with a perfect run that day. If you run the numbers on paper as people like to do, throwing out statistics, drop, drift, BC, there is no way a 308 should have kept up with a ballistically better bullet, but there you have it.
I am slowing growing my arsenal of 308s with barrels 20" and under, and I find they work well for me. My answer to recoil management is exactly the same whether I use a 22, or 18.5" barrel, there is change required in my technique. So the fact it makes more "noise" is irrelevant to me. I drive the rifle the same way each and every time.
Mostly longer barrels just make the shooter feel better, that isn't to say if I was going to start shooting F-Class tomorrow I wouldn't have a 26" Barrel, I would, but I wouldn't make it 30" either and I would certainly be investing in high dollar rests/bipod to compete alongside the belly bench rest crowd. I would probably still use a 308 because I know what changes I need based on shot to shot conditions, still, as I long as I know that, 3/4 of the battle has been fought and won.
In the past the issue between, say a 24" and 20" was definitely one of velocity, and especially as it relates to weather. In colder climates at sea level you lose a lot. Even more so using a 168gr bullet.
But that is no longer the case.
Today we have a lot of better loads, whether hand loads or factory loads with new powders. 22", (21.75") was used to work under any condition even at sea level. This length even with the weakest load usually gave you enough to reach 1000 yards without any ill effects even in colder temperatures at sea level. <span style="font-style: italic">(generally you want to stay above 1200fps at 1000 yards) </span>
<span style="font-weight: bold">Step into 21st century, particularly the last 2 years. </span> New powders are adding velocity to shorter length barrels in ways that only happened with endless load development. An 20" 308 Semi Automatic now has the ability to get 2650fps from a factory / military load. <span style="font-style: italic">(Mk316) </span> Previous M118LR loads hovered around 2550fps from the same rifle. This is significant for sea level shooting, and translates to even better performance from a 22" barrel. My last testing of a new Cor Bon load produced 2770fps out of my 22" Valkyrie... unheard of even out of most factory 26" barrels.
Speed is not the whole story. While it does provide a measurable advantage in drop and wind drift, not everyone can exploit this advantage and it is not a magical solution to persons shooting. Also not everyone needs more velocity to be successful, conditions matter. Unless you are well inside the top 20% of the world's top shooters will you probably won't be able to exploit this consistently. There are always one off exceptions where today you'll succeed and tomorrow you won't, that is because the advantage will always go to the one who knows his rifle data better than the other guy and consistently execute the fundamentals from shot to shot. I shot my 22" Werewolf 308 with factory ammo and tied the field for 2nd place at a local competition recently. The field was overwhelming tipped towards the 6.5mm bullet. I know my dope and executed it well based on the changes. Out of 25 shooters, I was only one of only 5 with a perfect run that day. If you run the numbers on paper as people like to do, throwing out statistics, drop, drift, BC, there is no way a 308 should have kept up with a ballistically better bullet, but there you have it.
I am slowing growing my arsenal of 308s with barrels 20" and under, and I find they work well for me. My answer to recoil management is exactly the same whether I use a 22, or 18.5" barrel, there is change required in my technique. So the fact it makes more "noise" is irrelevant to me. I drive the rifle the same way each and every time.
Mostly longer barrels just make the shooter feel better, that isn't to say if I was going to start shooting F-Class tomorrow I wouldn't have a 26" Barrel, I would, but I wouldn't make it 30" either and I would certainly be investing in high dollar rests/bipod to compete alongside the belly bench rest crowd. I would probably still use a 308 because I know what changes I need based on shot to shot conditions, still, as I long as I know that, 3/4 of the battle has been fought and won.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
Wasn't somebody going to do a test on this?
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2393821
Wasn't somebody going to do a test on this?
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2393821
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
I am not saying that all ppl should have long bbl's, I do agree, bbl length selection is proprotionate to application.. My .223 has a 30 inch 7.2 twist bbl, shooting the 75gr Amax at 3100fps, my .308 bbl is 30 inches 13 twist, SIE2156 bullets at 3050 and my 7mm Saum is a 32 inch 9 twist, SIE 175 SMK's at 3000 fps. I use long bbl's to help with the needed volocity and also with sight radius. In highpower long range, you don't get the option to shoot all matches with a scope, you can at local club matches usually, but at the Nationals, no. Of course, you could put a "bloop" tube on the bbl to extend your sight radius. It is just that using a shorter bbl means that you have to push your load harder, which means your going to be harder on your brass and it is not going to last near as long, cause with hard loads with big bullets is going to loosen that primer pocket up.
I am not saying that all ppl should have long bbl's, I do agree, bbl length selection is proprotionate to application.. My .223 has a 30 inch 7.2 twist bbl, shooting the 75gr Amax at 3100fps, my .308 bbl is 30 inches 13 twist, SIE2156 bullets at 3050 and my 7mm Saum is a 32 inch 9 twist, SIE 175 SMK's at 3000 fps. I use long bbl's to help with the needed volocity and also with sight radius. In highpower long range, you don't get the option to shoot all matches with a scope, you can at local club matches usually, but at the Nationals, no. Of course, you could put a "bloop" tube on the bbl to extend your sight radius. It is just that using a shorter bbl means that you have to push your load harder, which means your going to be harder on your brass and it is not going to last near as long, cause with hard loads with big bullets is going to loosen that primer pocket up.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SIE107</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am not saying that all ppl should have long bbl's, I do agree, bbl length selection is proprotionate to application.. My .223 has a 30 inch 7.2 twist bbl, shooting the 75gr Amax at 3100fps, my .308 bbl is 30 inches 13 twist, SIE2156 bullets at 3050 and my 7mm Saum is a 32 inch 9 twist, SIE 175 SMK's at 3000 fps. I use long bbl's to help with the needed volocity and also with sight radius. In highpower long range, you don't get the option to shoot all matches with a scope, you can at local club matches usually, but at the Nationals, no. Of course, you could put a "bloop" tube on the bbl to extend your sight radius. It is just that using a shorter bbl means that you have to push your load harder, which means your going to be harder on your brass and it is not going to last near as long, cause with hard loads with big bullets is going to loosen that primer pocket up. </div></div>
Your applications is very specific & has absolutely nothing to do with Sniper's Hide or tactical shooting ... its a completely different genre of shooting. It's like bringing an Formula 1 car to a street race, sure you can stick a brake light on the back and do it, but is it really practical. At the same time you wouldn't bring an 18" 308 to a High Power Match even if you can hit at a 1000 yards with it. It would be stupid to suggest it. reading is fundamental in this case.
But you also only carry your rifle from the car to line, probably no more than 25 yards.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SIE107</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am not saying that all ppl should have long bbl's, I do agree, bbl length selection is proprotionate to application.. My .223 has a 30 inch 7.2 twist bbl, shooting the 75gr Amax at 3100fps, my .308 bbl is 30 inches 13 twist, SIE2156 bullets at 3050 and my 7mm Saum is a 32 inch 9 twist, SIE 175 SMK's at 3000 fps. I use long bbl's to help with the needed volocity and also with sight radius. In highpower long range, you don't get the option to shoot all matches with a scope, you can at local club matches usually, but at the Nationals, no. Of course, you could put a "bloop" tube on the bbl to extend your sight radius. It is just that using a shorter bbl means that you have to push your load harder, which means your going to be harder on your brass and it is not going to last near as long, cause with hard loads with big bullets is going to loosen that primer pocket up. </div></div>
Your applications is very specific & has absolutely nothing to do with Sniper's Hide or tactical shooting ... its a completely different genre of shooting. It's like bringing an Formula 1 car to a street race, sure you can stick a brake light on the back and do it, but is it really practical. At the same time you wouldn't bring an 18" 308 to a High Power Match even if you can hit at a 1000 yards with it. It would be stupid to suggest it. reading is fundamental in this case.
But you also only carry your rifle from the car to line, probably no more than 25 yards.
Re: 20", 24", or 26"
Again, this site proves to garner thoughtful and timely info...
At only $35, there's little reason for me NOT to cut again, from 22" to 19". ETA: I just found Winchester.com has a very easy to use ballistics calculator, with "statistics chart" to show fps at each yardage. Nice!
Again, this site proves to garner thoughtful and timely info...
At only $35, there's little reason for me NOT to cut again, from 22" to 19". ETA: I just found Winchester.com has a very easy to use ballistics calculator, with "statistics chart" to show fps at each yardage. Nice!
