.223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

[Shocktroop0351]

First off, sorry if this subject has been tackled before, I tried searching for it and couldn't really find anything. I'm looking at dies to reload for my AR. It has a .223 Wylde chamber if that makes any difference. I've reloaded for my .308 for quite awhile now and if money wasn't an issue I'd have a set of .223 Redding Comp. dies. But I'm doing this to get an accurate coyote load worked up with some 65gn Sierra Gamekings, so the cost of those dies is a little bit much for what I am trying to get out of it. Should I be looking at full length re-sizing or neck sizing? I'd like to go with a neck sizer but is it smart with a semi auto chamber? I still want to be able to reliably lay down lead like this gun was intended, so I don't really want to give up any reliability in exchange for a little accuracy or longer brass life. Also, how important is crimping and should I do it? I've never crimped my .308 rounds before so it would be something new to me. This is my current pick based on perceived value http://www.midwayusa.com/product/776391/lee-deluxe-3-die-set-223-remington
Also, I have quite a bit of brass saved up, some commercial and some surplus with a crimp. How do you recommend prepping the surplus brass?
Thank you in advance for your guys' help, again haha.

Here is the gun this load will be for

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

You'll need to use a full length for sizing. That doesn't mean you have to push the shoulder back to min spec, but it should be pushed back some to insure function. You could save a few bucks and get a set w/o the collet neck die if you wanted. A lot of people give the Lee stuff a hard time, but most of their stuff is pretty good IMHO.

If you're looking for accuracy, don't crimp. I use a light crimp w/ 55gr FMJ's, but everything else is just neck tension.

 

[Beef82]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

Full length size. I like Hornady, but your brand of choice will likely suffice. Crimping is not neccesary, but I do lightly with a Lee FCD.
Surplus brass prep: remove crimp, this can be cone by cutting with a specific tool or most chamfer tools, or you can swage them, RCBS makes a very affordable press mounted tool I use but its not the fastest. Dillion makes a bench mounted tool that is generally considered the best. Aside from the crimp prep is normal, clean, lube, size, trim.

 

[aloreman]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

forster benchrest full length are hard to beat. I swithed to a redding full lenth s die for this season on would recommend that as well. You have to fl size but as long as have 2 thou neck tension there is no need to crimp

 

[Shocktroop0351]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

Thanks guys for all the good info. Would a primer pocket uniformer be an effective way to remove the crimps?

 

[Temp9]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

Not really. The uniformer doesn't really cut away all of the crimp; the cutters just aren't in the right places. It'll loosen up some of them, though. If you use softer primers (Federal or Winchester), you might be able to get away with not swaging the primer pocket, but let me warn you, it's very frustrating. I usually crush about 1 out of 10 primers if I don't remove the crimp.

For budget dies, look at the Lee RGB die set. They aren't quite as nice as some of the others, but they only cost $17 per set. That being said, I'm looking at upgrading my Lee set....

 

[scotharr]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shocktroop0351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks guys for all the good info. Would a primer pocket uniformer be an effective way to remove the crimps? </div></div>
no, you need a swaging or crimp removal/cutting tool.

 

[Shocktroop0351]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scooter-PIE</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shocktroop0351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks guys for all the good info. Would a primer pocket uniformer be an effective way to remove the crimps? </div></div>
no, you need a swaging or crimp removal/cutting tool. </div></div>

Ok, thanks again.

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

If you have a counter-sink bit laying around, that can be used to remove the crimp. If you get into large volume 5.56 brass prep, the dillon suger swage is worth the $100 IMHO. Another good buller for the yotes would be a 55gr Nosler BT. They have been very accurate for me.

 

[Shocktroop0351]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

I'll look around for one and see how that works, thanks for the heads up.

 

[sic65stang]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

In my .223 AR, if I know the rounds were fired from my rifle, and I am strictly loading for an accurate hunting/ target round I ONLY neck size and chamfur/ deburr. I do not crimp either. I am wondering why you all prefer to FL size all your brass for this purpose?

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In my .223 AR, if I know the rounds were fired from my rifle, and I am strictly loading for an accurate hunting/ target round I ONLY neck size and chamfur/ deburr. I do not crimp either. I am wondering why you all prefer to FL size all your brass for this purpose?</div></div>

I full length, small base size all my .223 just as an additional measure to better insure function. When I started loading .223, I bought a Lee die set that included the collet die and tried it for one rifle. I don’t recall any function issues, but I do know that I saw no increased accuracy. I guess there could have been several reasons for this like: my novice reloading practices, the collet die, rifle capability or more likely shooter capability. Either way, I didn’t achieve any increased accuracy and my .223 brass life is more determined by how much of it gets picked up rather than over-working it. I’ve started processing 5.56 brass in bulk to the point where it’s primer ready. Keeping everything sized to the same spec makes it easier for me to keep up with. If I ever get a bolt action .223, this will change.

Edit: Other than inertia from the bolt/carrier or smacking the forward assist, there’s nothing in the AR design to allow for a ‘crush fit’.

 

[sic65stang]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

I only neck size for loads I want very accurate like target/ hunting rounds. For plinking I too FL size and load to factory specs.

I do notice an accuracy diference in my AR when I only neck size. But, as we all know every rifle is different. I tried both methods and this one works for me, it may absolutely not work for others.

 

[1lnbrdg]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

For an AR-type (auto-actuating) type, most people will want to full-legnth resize for reliability.

Heck, even for my long-range ammo (bolt rifle), I full-legnth resize. I know several National level shooters that do along with about as many that do not.

 

[boltgunluvr]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

The Wylde chamber is simply a chamber that will allow 223Rem and/or 5.56mmx45mm ammo. I know there are a few people that use NS ammo in their AR, but I'd highly recommend to FL size for reliable chambering. As to dies, I've gone to all Lee dies because I haven't seen any accuracy differences. I've owned more expensive sets, but I'm very comfortable with Lee's quality. I don't compete, never will. I would urge you to get the Lee Pacesetter Die set. It has a FL die, seater die & FC die. You can always add the Lee NS die and it conveniently fits in the Lee die case. The Pacesetter seater die is traditional in the sense that you can adjust for dead length seating or for roll crimping for bullets with a cannelure. It gives you all options. The FC die is awesome when NS. Thats method is great when shooting from a bolt gun. Bottomline...for an AR, full-length sizing (Pacesetter) is the smarter choice.

 

[Cacciatore]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

When I first started loading for my AR I used a Redding FL sizer. Now that I have used that for a while I am now in the process of upgrading. This week I am going to order a Forster FL die with the neck honed by Forster to provide an ideal amount of neck tension without using the expander ball. This, hopefully will increase accuracy, brass life, and amount of firings between trimming and annealing.

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Forster FL die with the neck honed</div></div>

Why didn't you go with bushing and body dies? Thanks!

 

[Shocktroop0351]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

Thanks again guys for all the information. I think I'll give the pacesetter dies a shot. I'm kind of curious about Lee's claims that the factory crimp die can produce results similar to seating right off the lands. I know when I started doing that with my .308 Remington 700 I saw a large improvement in accuracy. Also, can anyone think of a reason not to crimp a Sierra Gameking or any other bullet without a canellure? Thanks again for all the help.

 

[spoogie]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

RCBS dies. Various powders, bullets, etc. If you pick the right powder charge, the groups are pretty decent, to me, 1"-ish. I have a Wylde chamber, as well.

I didn't crimp.

Try whatever your budget allows.

In the top group in the picture below, I know I pulled one, the other one is a flier.

There is also a hole just out of the picture, on the bottom group in the picture below.

-S

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lee's claims that the factory crimp die can produce results similar to seating right off the lands</div></div>

Lee makes a lot of claims. If you don’t have it, pick up a copy of his reloading manual. Some of the info in there is what I would consider non-typical, but still good reading and useful. I may be off on this, but I believe the theory is that the crimp holds the bullet in place allowing for more consistent burns. Off memory, I think he also says his factory crimp can be used on all bullets because it works like a collet, not a traditional roll or taper. I’ve read where some net folks have improved accuracy with it.

If you’re looking for the best accuracy, getting a consistent burn and bullet release is important, but IMHO, that shouldn’t come at the cost of squeezing the bullet. I don’t shoot an AR well enough to worry about it. YMMV.

 

[aloreman]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

if you shoot long range competitions and ur gun jams on a rapid fire string ur not guna be happy. My fl sized ammo holds half minute to 600 yds

 

[Fuzzball]

Re: .223 AR-15 reloading dies and process

"I'll look around for one and see how that works, thanks for the heads up."

IMHO, the cutting angle of case chambering tools, counter sinks and drill bits require cutting too deeply into the pocket sides if we remove all the crimp with one of them. I recommend a proper primer pocket reamer like Lyman's to remove crimps.