22LR Bolt Action Magnification
- Thread starter MrHandsome
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Target shooting and small game hunting. Kind of an all purpose bolt action to teach my kids to shoot and have fun with. Not going to use it for any type of matches or competitions.
With that being the intention; I would say a nice 3-9 power scope with adjustable parallax.
I’m set on the Accupoint series. They offer multiple magnification ranges. 4-24, 3-18, 4-16, 2.5-12 and others. Do you think the higher ones like the 24 and 18 options are overkill?
If you are actually teaching new kids to shoot, hard to beat a red dot. I know it is not what you asked, but IME, reacquiring the target after each shot is a PIA, dot makes it easier.
Like above posters, a lower power scope is great.
Like above posters, a lower power scope is great.
Get a 3-18x if you want a do all scope. Good magnification on the high end for targets and low end for hunting.
FFP has spoiled me rotten - soo, 5-25 X mil - mil is my go to, do all.
6-24 or a 4-16 ish with a tree reticle for quick dope and fast holds for wind. The Vortex DBT line is nice for the $$
I have a S&B 5-25 on my match rifle. With a 20-moa rail, and 20-moa mount, I can dial without hold-overs out past 400-yards.
Now if I was shooting squirrels out of trees, a 3-9 is probably more than enough.
Now if I was shooting squirrels out of trees, a 3-9 is probably more than enough.
Seems like this is the best of all worlds. Low enough for hunting and high enough for bench rest.
I’ve got 2-7, 3-9, 2-12, and 5-25 all in service at one time or another. The 2-12 is excellent for bridging the gap between target and hunting, if you leave it at low power while hunting until you know you need more zoom. Ideally in my mind, you’d want either a fine SFP with illuminated center dot, or a FFP with tree and illumination of at least the vertical and horizontal stadia.
The SFP will be easier to understand and use at first, but the FFP will be better if you want them to learn external ballistics. SFP can work just fine for that with an exposed turret though.
Also, despite my suggestion, my 3-9 SFP non-illuminated with a fine duplex and adjustable parallax does just fine for 22 hunting, because you have a point-blank zero from 20 to 50 yards, and the kids probably shouldn’t take shots longer than 50 yards on critters anyway, not until they understand bullet drop + wind calls and have a PLRF or some other way to range the animal.
My 2 cents.
The SFP will be easier to understand and use at first, but the FFP will be better if you want them to learn external ballistics. SFP can work just fine for that with an exposed turret though.
Also, despite my suggestion, my 3-9 SFP non-illuminated with a fine duplex and adjustable parallax does just fine for 22 hunting, because you have a point-blank zero from 20 to 50 yards, and the kids probably shouldn’t take shots longer than 50 yards on critters anyway, not until they understand bullet drop + wind calls and have a PLRF or some other way to range the animal.
My 2 cents.
If you are not competing, even 3-9 is over kill IMHO. I use Leopold Vx3 1.5-5x 20 on my .22LR rifles. Plenty for any reasonable hunting and plinking situation.
I doubt you will find a parallax adjustable scope less than 10x. It’s really not needed.
I doubt you will find a parallax adjustable scope less than 10x. It’s really not needed.
Here's a parallax-adjustable scope in the 3-9x category, SFP and no illumination alas:
www.leupold.com
I have the rifle scope this one replaced, model 110827, and it's great for what it is, a lightweight hunting/plinking scope. I've since switched over and just move my PST G2 5-25 to whichever gun I'm shooting, but I'd mount this one back onto the 22LR if I needed to keep the Vortex on a different gun.
VX-Freedom 3-9x33 EFR Fine Duplex
Whether it's for training or just for fun, there's something about shooting rimfire or air rifle that puts a smile on your face, and our VX®-Freedom® 3-9x33mm EFR is purpose-built to get the most out of either one.
www.leupold.com
I have the rifle scope this one replaced, model 110827, and it's great for what it is, a lightweight hunting/plinking scope. I've since switched over and just move my PST G2 5-25 to whichever gun I'm shooting, but I'd mount this one back onto the 22LR if I needed to keep the Vortex on a different gun.
If he is trying to shoot precisely he will quickly tire of a 1-5 or 3-9. The extra power helps.
That all depends on the need. If they are shooting prone or off a bench then it’s nothing. If they aren’t carrying it long distances again nothing.
Power also doesn’t equal weight. All depends on the scope choice. The Razor LHT 3-15 is only 19 ounces.
Can’t hit what you can’t see.
Power also doesn’t equal weight. All depends on the scope choice. The Razor LHT 3-15 is only 19 ounces.
Can’t hit what you can’t see.
I have a 4x Leupold fixed power on my newest Kidd ULW, it weighs 7 oz (with scope and rings that rifle weighs 5 lbs 9.1 oz. The Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x33 adjustable objective weighs 12.1 oz. I have a 4.5-29x56 on my Vudoo; it tips the scales at 35.8 oz.
It's a give and take game...power does equal weight. Off a bench or positional, weight helps. Carrying a rifle through the woods, across the field or up a hill, I don't want the extra weight. We need to see what we want to shoot...that's where each person has to make that decision of what they "need".
It's a give and take game...power does equal weight. Off a bench or positional, weight helps. Carrying a rifle through the woods, across the field or up a hill, I don't want the extra weight. We need to see what we want to shoot...that's where each person has to make that decision of what they "need".
One of my favorites for a lightweight, do-all .22 is an Optisan 3-12x32. It's a short and light optic which keeps the rifle handy and it also has adjustable parallax. It is SFP but I don't mind it since it's not a competition type rifle.
For competing, it's hard to be a Vortex SE.
For competing, it's hard to be a Vortex SE.
I run a Vortex Viper HST 6-24x50 VMR-1 MIL scope on my CA Ranger 22 with a 20 MOA rail, and shoot out to 200 yards regularly. With my setup and ammo, it's exactly 5 MILs drop from my 100 yard zero.
I have a Zeiss 3-12x56 on my Ruger 10/22 because I had it sitting around the safe, and it's a great scope that I didn't want to keep sitting there collecting dust, and it was leaps & bounds better than what I had on there. BUT, I am probably going to swap that Zeiss onto one of my deer rifles, and put something with dialable turrets on the 10/22, like one of my old SWFA SS 3-15x42 MQ scopes. Or, when I figure out what I want to swap this 2nd Arken onto, put that HST 6-24x50 onto the 10/22, so both my .22 rifles will have matching scopes.
I have a Zeiss 3-12x56 on my Ruger 10/22 because I had it sitting around the safe, and it's a great scope that I didn't want to keep sitting there collecting dust, and it was leaps & bounds better than what I had on there. BUT, I am probably going to swap that Zeiss onto one of my deer rifles, and put something with dialable turrets on the 10/22, like one of my old SWFA SS 3-15x42 MQ scopes. Or, when I figure out what I want to swap this 2nd Arken onto, put that HST 6-24x50 onto the 10/22, so both my .22 rifles will have matching scopes.
ive grabbed a few used steel 4x and 6x leupolds ive found over the past few years and use them on my grandkids rimfires and 300 blackout deer rifles. PERFECT!
So with the Accupoint series they offer 2.5-12x42 at 22oz and a 3-18x50 at 27oz. Between those options would you go lower for the weight savings or is the extra 5os justified?
He stated he is not competing. Within the practical range of the rifle 5x is plenty.
Shooting accurately has nothing to do with competing. Go shoot a 1/2 “ dot with that 5x at 100 yards.
I’d rather have more power and not need it, than need it and not have it. With 25X you can run it at mid power or lower, if you want.
Well I practically shoot over 200 yards every time I go to the range with my .22. Even walking around plinking I'll shoot 100 yards offhand for fun, usually 10-12x. At the range I'm usually at max power, 29x.
Did the op say if his rifle would be capable of hitting a 1/2" dot at 100 more than once in 25 shots? Trust me, I run the same quality optics you do on rimfires, but the OP's goal was to teach new shooters, not obliterate 1/2" dots at 100. I think we have lost perspective here with telling the op he needs 25+ power optics.
And when he and they learn and outgrow the 5x then what? Buy another scope. Why not just buy one that will give you low and high at the same time? We all know how this works. You get something and then the more you do it the more fun you have and want to challenge yourself and having the right tools for that help. Even in a small game hunting he might want a little more.
I never told him a 25+ is needed but I recommended the 3-18x. That will give him everything he needs in that set up for hunting, target and later even if he does want to try some NRL22 he can with that scope also. Telling him to get a 5x or even a 3-9x is very short sighted, no pun intended.
You're going to need to figure out what the minimum power you're comfortable hunting with. Then find a scope that gives you the maximum power in a size that works for you. Maximum power will give you best view of target for most accuracy potential for target shooting. Putting to large a scope on a hunting rifle will take away from the experience in the field. A large scope on the bench is usually not an issue. Dollars will also figure into your selection as I'm sure you have a limit as to what you are willing to spend.
I have 6x24 scopes that are small enough to work on hunting rifles and 6x24 scopes that are to big but work on target rifles. Maximum power usually doesn't work in hunting situations because movement is exaggerated. FFP scopes sometime have issues with being able to see the reticle clearly at low powers but work fine at medium to higher powers. SFP scopes do not have this issue and the reticle is the same from lowest power to highest.
You have to decide which features you want or need and then select a scope that fits your needs.
I have 6x24 scopes that are small enough to work on hunting rifles and 6x24 scopes that are to big but work on target rifles. Maximum power usually doesn't work in hunting situations because movement is exaggerated. FFP scopes sometime have issues with being able to see the reticle clearly at low powers but work fine at medium to higher powers. SFP scopes do not have this issue and the reticle is the same from lowest power to highest.
You have to decide which features you want or need and then select a scope that fits your needs.
Excellent points!
Most of us have, or have had that one or 2 scopes that are less desirable that we hang on to, and always find a home for them, it is a learning process.
Maybe I am alone here, but I am glad as I upgraded, I was able to give scopes to kids to get them interested in shooting.
- Nov 3, 2010
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I have a B14R on the way and since I have a Vortex Razor 5-20x50 sitting in the safe will put that on there at least for the time being, will use this rifle mostly for target shooting/plinking maybe shooting some squirrels, grouse, anyone ever used this scope on a 22, probably not ideal since parallax only goes down to 40 yds but I'm not using it for competition, scope has 36 mils of elevation and with a 30 moa rail should get me out there a long ways.
I realize we’re on the Snipers Hide forum, but come on. The OP just wants some hunting, teaching and casual range work. I have a 5-25x56 Kahles on my Vudoo 22, but it will never see the field. The scope alone weighs almost as much as any normal hunting rifle. Much less the Spuhr mount.
And when I hear talk about 200 yard shots hunting with 22 cal. rifles I call BS.
And when I hear talk about 200 yard shots hunting with 22 cal. rifles I call BS.
having taught my kids, my grandkids, and a bunch of other family and friends the basics of shooting using 22s i can tell you that it often takes a few range sessions, if ever, before the kids want to hear about zoom, parallax, etc. they just want to shoot the pop can and have fun! i just want them to enjoy themselves safely
Kids also don't want to hear about the car when you drive them to an amusement park or the auto insurance or the speed limit or the car matinence but doesn't mean it's not all there. It's things we as adults need to worry about and take care of to make their day fun. Then when they become more mature and learn they can appreciate it. Why making a good initial choice helps everyone now and down the road.
Thanks for this. 10-22 and a red dot, eliminate the BS, keep it safe, simple and fun. Then on to a scope, iron sights last, let the kids dictate which direction they want to go, I'm not training 5-8 yr old insurgents. If it is not fun, it will be the last trip they make.
Anything above 20x and I get to add my heartbeat to my wobble. Plus the higher magnification the less field of view. That equals a darker image vs lower mag on the same scope. Doesn't matter if your on the bench or in the field. If you can't see clearly you can't shoot well.
Heartbeat and wobble comes down to the personal marksmanship of the shooter.
FOV is a given and if you needed more you turn down and if you need more magnification to see the target then turn up.
Higher power does not always equal darker image. That depends on the optic being used.
FOV is a given and if you needed more you turn down and if you need more magnification to see the target then turn up.
Higher power does not always equal darker image. That depends on the optic being used.
Shooting is a collection of givens and variables.
Wobble and heartbeat are a given. They are part of the human equation of shooting. The effect on the result is a variable Shooter skill is primary, but also affected by position & equipment. Offhand vs prone, bipod vs F-class benchrest.
That higher power always equal a darker image because of a narrower FOV is a given. What we see is light reflected off the objects in our FOV. Wider equals more light, narrower equals less light. It's not something limited to optics, it's how our eyes work. Effect would be the same if you were standing on deck vs looking out the porthole. With scopes the effect is mitigated by the size of the objective lens, and the quality of the lens & coatings. 40 vs 50 or 56mm lens. $500 scope vs $1500. All are going to have it to one extent or another.
The real questions limiting magnification are how much we perceive and how much we care. I shoot in a Long range rimfire match {2MOA targets out to 300m}. I'm just scraping paint on steel, Detail is not important. Finding the rabbit in the tall grass at 50 yard it matters.
Playing with the variables is what makes shooting so interesting for me. And as they say" your mileage may vary"
Yup milage will vary but you get it all with a good variable. With a high power variable you can dial down to take offhand shots and up when prone. Versatility. Heartbeat isn't a given. Not always seen. Same with wobble. Comes down to position.
The extent is so small it's not even noticed by most and in good scopes you won't see it. Hell my $499 Venom is still plenty bright at 25x. You are vastly exaggerating the effects and "darker" image. Guess those BR guys using 60x scopes must use flashlights to brighten their sight picture. LOL And when you get into higher end optic they are as bight and clear at max as at lowest power. Just less FOV.
And on FOV it is what it is. You need more dial down, less then dial up. Again the versatility of a high powered variable. Same with shooting a match vs a rabbit. Dial down if you need to find the rabbit in the high grass. If you need higher power to hit a 1/2" KYL at 100 then dial up.
No, you can turn the power down, but can't turn it up, if you don't have it.
Mark
