.22lr zero ???

Buzzbee

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Minuteman
Aug 15, 2018
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thanks to all who posted .22lr trajectory charts. they will give me a great starting point.
question, what range do you zero? the matches i shoot in are from 25 yards - 225 yards
my scope will focus to 25 yards

Meopta6, 4.5-27x50, MOA, SECOND FOCAL PLANE
 
You’ll get a bunch of different answers, but generally speaking, anytime you are zero’ing a rifle (doesn’t matter Rimfire or centerfire) the goals are:

Distance in which the environment has as little effect as possible

Distance within the capability (basically parallax) of your equipment

Allows for easy adjustments (typically all up)

So, always make sure your Rimfire zero range is further than your minimum parallax error (if optic is 25m or 25yds, don’t zero any closer).

Decide if you want all your adjustments to be “up.” If so, 30 or 35yds is a good zero. If you don’t care, 25yds or in a pinch, 50yds. I would never advise further than 50 yds.

Personally, I use whatever is available and plug that into my kestrel. If it’s 25, 30, 35, or 50, I don’t care. I will lase it with rangefinder and input it into kestrel where I have trued my data. I have won a match before with a 53yd zero because that’s what the zero target available at the match was according to my laser.
 
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50 yards. With mill reticle it works great.

Screenshot_20191207-085221.png
 
All mine are zeroed at 50 and most have 50 moa mounts to dial out thru 500.

I think 25 is too close even though it is only usually 1/2 moa down to center hit from a 50 zero. At 25 you can be a couple clicks off and still look centered which will mess with you as you progress farther out

I made a new target rack this year for my matches for the 37 yard line. That's a weird distance that nearly everyone hits high on, if they don't pay attention and study the trajectory they will miss them. They are intentionally small and the hanger comes in from the side so they can't hit the hanger bar.

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I like to use a 50 yard zero. 20 and 50 are just about identical for me. I sometimes fire a few rounds in my back yard, which is about 20 yards. It makes it nice and simple to get a rough 50 yard zero before I head out somewhere.
 
All mine are zeroed at 50 and most have 50 moa mounts to dial out thru 500.

I think 25 is too close even though it is only usually 1/2 moa down to center hit from a 50 zero. At 25 you can be a couple clicks off and still look centered which will mess with you as you progress farther out

I made a new target rack this year for my matches for the 37 yard line. That's a weird distance that nearly everyone hits high on, if they don't pay attention and study the trajectory they will miss them. They are intentionally small and the hanger comes in from the side so they can't hit the hanger bar.

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Any way to get a pic of that rack, sounds interesting....
 
25 for me. Then again 25 and 50 are within .1 mil of each other. I feel like 25 gives a better zero without environmental changes pushing things around. At 50 yards 3 mph is .1 wind and 5 mph is .2 so if you zero into the wind your zero will be off for the rest of the day. I have seen it happen at multiple NRL22 events.
 
25 for me. Then again 25 and 50 are within .1 mil of each other. I feel like 25 gives a better zero without environmental changes pushing things around. At 50 yards 3 mph is .1 wind and 5 mph is .2 so if you zero into the wind your zero will be off for the rest of the day. I have seen it happen at multiple NRL22 events.

I don't really compete, and I only shoot .22's at 100+ yards (at my home range I can shoot up to 250) so I zero at 100. Then I have room to dial up to the 200-250 ranges. I have zero'd a couple .22's to 50 but that's not my norm. I always try make sure my windage is zero'd with little or no wind. Dialing windage for a .22 is a sure path to disaster.
 
Sounds like a nice range. I am envious. Utilizing a 25 yard zero I can still dial put to 350 or so before my dial tops out. I still have 10 mil or so of hold over after that also. I have made 4 in a row at 400 yards on a 66% IPSC in the past. I am running a 20 moa rail and a 20 moa scope mount on my rifle.
 
40m for me, the max the bullet will go high is under 1/4" and that's at 30m. I don't want to holder under on close targets if I can help it.

60m used to suit better for hunting situations.
 
Any way to get a pic of that rack, sounds interesting....

20190911_194229.jpg


37 yards is a weird distance for 22 rimfires with a 50 yard zero. Some of my racks have a smaller gamble target they can shoot for more points but is usually smaller instead of the regular target and are usually added at the end of a rack to let you get zeroed in as you progress across.

This rack will have the gamble target first and they can't be off with their elevation hoping to hit the hanger bar.

Should be interesting till they get it right. Gamble is 1/2" others are 1" which sounds easy enough but might surprise you at that particular distance.

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37 yards is a weird distance for 22 rimfires with a 50 yard zero. Some of my racks have a smaller gamble target they can shoot for more points but is usually smaller instead of the regular target and are usually added at the end of a rack to let you get zeroed in as you progress across.

This rack will have the gamble target first and they can't be off with their elevation hoping to hit the hanger bar.

Should be interesting till they get it right. Gamble is 1/2" others are 1" which sounds easy enough but might surprise you at that particular distance.

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No practicing Bill !!!!!!!!!

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That’s why I choose 35yds

everything is up, from 10-400 it’s always dial up. It’s the same with centerfire, 100yd zero and everything is up. Dial for 25yds is close to .2 up, same for 50yds.

I really like those targets, that’s a neat idea. The 1/4” from the NRL gives you a lot of leeway on elevation, but only 1/4” of windage.