since lapua doesn't make brass for my 260 am i better to neck down some 308 casings or go with rem-nos-norma. right now i am using remington but with competition season approching i might need better brass. i have no exceriance changing neck sizes on brass but do have a die to change 308 to 260
260 brass question
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Re: 260 brass question
The way I did mine was to first FL size the 308 case WITH NO EXPANDER, then FL size in 7/08 NO EXPANDER and finally to 260.
Stress relieve the necks with candle or alcohol lamp to get them soft/workable. You want to stress relieve, NOT ANNEAL.
Use Imperial size die lube on all three operations.
Ease case in slowly. You will collapse about three in a hundred on Winchester brass.
PM me with email address and I will send you details on stress relieving written by metallurgist.
The way I did mine was to first FL size the 308 case WITH NO EXPANDER, then FL size in 7/08 NO EXPANDER and finally to 260.
Stress relieve the necks with candle or alcohol lamp to get them soft/workable. You want to stress relieve, NOT ANNEAL.
Use Imperial size die lube on all three operations.
Ease case in slowly. You will collapse about three in a hundred on Winchester brass.
PM me with email address and I will send you details on stress relieving written by metallurgist.
Re: 260 brass question
If you have a .260 F/L die with a neck expander ball, you can make your .260 brass from Win or Lapua .243 brass by simply running it through that .260 F/L die and expander. I use the Win. Easy, no issues.
Greg
If you have a .260 F/L die with a neck expander ball, you can make your .260 brass from Win or Lapua .243 brass by simply running it through that .260 F/L die and expander. I use the Win. Easy, no issues.
Greg
Re: 260 brass question
I was using the Remington brass, but have had trouble with the primer pockets loosening up. I am going to try Nosler brass and see how that works. Hopefully I can get it to last longer. There was a thread here a while back from Terry Cross where he said he used Win 7mm-08 brass and explained how he resized it.
I was using the Remington brass, but have had trouble with the primer pockets loosening up. I am going to try Nosler brass and see how that works. Hopefully I can get it to last longer. There was a thread here a while back from Terry Cross where he said he used Win 7mm-08 brass and explained how he resized it.
Re: 260 brass question
i have the forester fl benchrest die.
so i can buy 243 lapua brass and just run them through that?
i have the forester fl benchrest die.
so i can buy 243 lapua brass and just run them through that?
Re: 260 brass question
Don't overlook DWM brass.It is expensive but It is the finest I ever loaded and primer pockets are TIGHT ! ! ! ! A friend had a couple boxes and it was tighter than LC match.
IMI is good as well.
Greg has best idea, go up instead of down.
If you can get some LC Match brass, it will take lots of reloads. I have loaded it 75 times easily.
Regardless of whose brass you take down from 308 check case neck dimension to make sure you are not too big. You will probably be OK if you neck turn it to .012" before you start to take it down.
PRIV PARTIZAN appears to be good but I don't know if it is made in 243??? Graf's in Mexico, MO. is the importer I think.
If you go up stress relieve it after first firing as you just made a big material move which will harden neck very quickly and split quickly.
Don't overlook DWM brass.It is expensive but It is the finest I ever loaded and primer pockets are TIGHT ! ! ! ! A friend had a couple boxes and it was tighter than LC match.
IMI is good as well.
Greg has best idea, go up instead of down.
If you can get some LC Match brass, it will take lots of reloads. I have loaded it 75 times easily.
Regardless of whose brass you take down from 308 check case neck dimension to make sure you are not too big. You will probably be OK if you neck turn it to .012" before you start to take it down.
PRIV PARTIZAN appears to be good but I don't know if it is made in 243??? Graf's in Mexico, MO. is the importer I think.
If you go up stress relieve it after first firing as you just made a big material move which will harden neck very quickly and split quickly.
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you have a .260 F/L die with a neck expanderr ball, you can make your .260 brass from Win or Lapua .243 brass by simply running it through that .260 F/L die and expander. I use the Win. Easy, no issues.
Greg </div></div>
I use much the same method. After my wife went from a 243 to 260 l had a bunch of brass so I simply ran it through the 260 die. I had thought about using 308 brass, but after doing some research it seemed guys were doing alot of neck trimming so I just necked up instead of down. I am using Win brass, run it through the die, true up the primer pockets, trim/ chamfer and load. I've had good results with 4064 and nosler BTs.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you have a .260 F/L die with a neck expanderr ball, you can make your .260 brass from Win or Lapua .243 brass by simply running it through that .260 F/L die and expander. I use the Win. Easy, no issues.
Greg </div></div>
I use much the same method. After my wife went from a 243 to 260 l had a bunch of brass so I simply ran it through the 260 die. I had thought about using 308 brass, but after doing some research it seemed guys were doing alot of neck trimming so I just necked up instead of down. I am using Win brass, run it through the die, true up the primer pockets, trim/ chamfer and load. I've had good results with 4064 and nosler BTs.
Re: 260 brass question
I have had good luck with the Nosler 260 brass. I tried some Nosler Custom factory ammo that performed extremely well. Reloaded the once fired brass and have now purchased additional brass. It has been consistant across the board.
I have had good luck with the Nosler 260 brass. I tried some Nosler Custom factory ammo that performed extremely well. Reloaded the once fired brass and have now purchased additional brass. It has been consistant across the board.
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D Baker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have had good luck with the Nosler 260 brass. I tried some Nosler Custom factory ammo that performed extremely well. Reloaded the once fired brass and have now purchased additional brass. It has been consistant across the board. </div></div>
Good to know... you're the first person I've come across with first hand experience with the Nosler 260 brass.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D Baker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have had good luck with the Nosler 260 brass. I tried some Nosler Custom factory ammo that performed extremely well. Reloaded the once fired brass and have now purchased additional brass. It has been consistant across the board. </div></div>
Good to know... you're the first person I've come across with first hand experience with the Nosler 260 brass.
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nhm16</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D Baker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have had good luck with the Nosler 260 brass. I tried some Nosler Custom factory ammo that performed extremely well. Reloaded the once fired brass and have now purchased additional brass. It has been consistant across the board. </div></div>
Good to know... you're the first person I've come across with first hand experience with the Nosler 260 brass. </div></div>
what do you just and what do you think
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nhm16</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D Baker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have had good luck with the Nosler 260 brass. I tried some Nosler Custom factory ammo that performed extremely well. Reloaded the once fired brass and have now purchased additional brass. It has been consistant across the board. </div></div>
Good to know... you're the first person I've come across with first hand experience with the Nosler 260 brass. </div></div>
what do you just and what do you think
Re: 260 brass question
Norma makes 260 brass. I have not tried it but Norma makes good brass. I have been using Remm. Brass and have great luck with it. I bought Nos.brass and will see if it makes any diffence. My question would be Is that much of difference in accurency between the brass?
Norma makes 260 brass. I have not tried it but Norma makes good brass. I have been using Remm. Brass and have great luck with it. I bought Nos.brass and will see if it makes any diffence. My question would be Is that much of difference in accurency between the brass?
Re: 260 brass question
i use rem brass now and when i primed them after the first firing i really didn't like the way they felt going in. it seamed to easy. my load is no where near max. its alot closer to the min but thats what the gun likes. ive read alot pf folks complaining about loose pockets on the rem brass wich is what got me thinking about this thread.
as far as accuracy im not really looking for any big gains in that department although i wouldn't complain if i got them. im looking for less brass prep and less worry about a loose pocket.
i use rem brass now and when i primed them after the first firing i really didn't like the way they felt going in. it seamed to easy. my load is no where near max. its alot closer to the min but thats what the gun likes. ive read alot pf folks complaining about loose pockets on the rem brass wich is what got me thinking about this thread.
as far as accuracy im not really looking for any big gains in that department although i wouldn't complain if i got them. im looking for less brass prep and less worry about a loose pocket.
Re: 260 brass question
if you dont wont loose pockets after a couple or even one firing dont use Rem Brass ! I am necking up Normas as I thought id give this brass a go but to be truthful inserting the primers is even a little loose to say the least after 2-3 firings .I will neck up Lapua brass next time cause I know it will last longer .I tried different brass because I wanted to see if a less expensive brass might be ok for several fireings -Rem wasnt -so far I have done 3-4 with the norma-no gas signs but soft insertion of primer.I know some of the guys here use Rem but I personally wont .
if you dont wont loose pockets after a couple or even one firing dont use Rem Brass ! I am necking up Normas as I thought id give this brass a go but to be truthful inserting the primers is even a little loose to say the least after 2-3 firings .I will neck up Lapua brass next time cause I know it will last longer .I tried different brass because I wanted to see if a less expensive brass might be ok for several fireings -Rem wasnt -so far I have done 3-4 with the norma-no gas signs but soft insertion of primer.I know some of the guys here use Rem but I personally wont .
Re: 260 brass question
I wish someone would market a draw collet type rig for reducing head diameter on 5.56 and 7.62. With this you could snug primer pockets on new brass and be ahead of the game.
I wish someone would market a draw collet type rig for reducing head diameter on 5.56 and 7.62. With this you could snug primer pockets on new brass and be ahead of the game.
Re: 260 brass question
I haven't found any easier than running Winchester 7-08 brass through my 260 die and loading. I'm on my 7th firing with mod-stout loads and the primer pockets are still quite snug.
I haven't found any easier than running Winchester 7-08 brass through my 260 die and loading. I'm on my 7th firing with mod-stout loads and the primer pockets are still quite snug.
Re: 260 brass question
If you want to purchase factory brass, Norma, Rem, and Nosler make it. It you want to form it, you can neck down 7mm-08 Win brass with a 260 die. This works well. You can also neck up any 243 brass. I would not recommend necking down 308 brass, since the necks will become very thick (unless you plan to use a custom bushing size to account for this)I personally use Rem factory brass, and it shoots great. If you plan on using it for match shooting, you have to remember you will only be able to retreive about half to maybe 75% of your cases. I don't want to waste the money and time when I will lose the expensive high-end cases and/or size formed cases. I don't think your rifle will be able to tell the difference from the high-end brass to the Rem factory brass when a proper load is worked up. I know mine doesn't. My $.02.
If you want to purchase factory brass, Norma, Rem, and Nosler make it. It you want to form it, you can neck down 7mm-08 Win brass with a 260 die. This works well. You can also neck up any 243 brass. I would not recommend necking down 308 brass, since the necks will become very thick (unless you plan to use a custom bushing size to account for this)I personally use Rem factory brass, and it shoots great. If you plan on using it for match shooting, you have to remember you will only be able to retreive about half to maybe 75% of your cases. I don't want to waste the money and time when I will lose the expensive high-end cases and/or size formed cases. I don't think your rifle will be able to tell the difference from the high-end brass to the Rem factory brass when a proper load is worked up. I know mine doesn't. My $.02.
Re: 260 brass question
The Rem brass will not take the hotter loads like some other brass will. The primer pockets do loosen up some. The 7mm-08 would be a good choice.
The Rem brass will not take the hotter loads like some other brass will. The primer pockets do loosen up some. The 7mm-08 would be a good choice.
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sleeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It would be nice if Lapua would just make .260 brass
</div></div>
it would make my search easier
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sleeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It would be nice if Lapua would just make .260 brass
it would make my search easier
Re: 260 brass question
I think its an important point about loosing brass and why chadtrg42 chooses Rem brass -it is not that you cant shoot accuratly with it it is that it wont last as long if your a reloader that keeps the stuff like me .I shoot f class at the range and then go to a local farm where I have set different steel targets up out to 700 yards and prone shoot then move to next target always keeping track of my brass.I paid $113 dollars for 100 243 norma cases - Rem is a little cheaper and lapua is around the norma price .For me the wear I hope to get from necking up the lapua 243 should make this brass the cheapest to buy in the long run .
I think its an important point about loosing brass and why chadtrg42 chooses Rem brass -it is not that you cant shoot accuratly with it it is that it wont last as long if your a reloader that keeps the stuff like me .I shoot f class at the range and then go to a local farm where I have set different steel targets up out to 700 yards and prone shoot then move to next target always keeping track of my brass.I paid $113 dollars for 100 243 norma cases - Rem is a little cheaper and lapua is around the norma price .For me the wear I hope to get from necking up the lapua 243 should make this brass the cheapest to buy in the long run .
Re: 260 brass question
I was planning to ask this same question in the future when it's closer to re-barreling my 308.
I have read Zak Smith's article and on this page he describes necking up 243 brass and removing the "donut".
What exactly is he doing and what are the tools he is using? None of the above posts mention this procedure. Why is it or isn't it necessary?
I was planning to ask this same question in the future when it's closer to re-barreling my 308.
I have read Zak Smith's article and on this page he describes necking up 243 brass and removing the "donut".
What exactly is he doing and what are the tools he is using? None of the above posts mention this procedure. Why is it or isn't it necessary?
Re: 260 brass question
I would like to help with this but havent done donut removal.I havent noticed donuts when necking up norma 243 brass but that may just be ignorance! this is an article with photos which may help .
http://www.6mmbr.com/260AIforming.html
I would like to help with this but havent done donut removal.I havent noticed donuts when necking up norma 243 brass but that may just be ignorance! this is an article with photos which may help .
http://www.6mmbr.com/260AIforming.html
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sleeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It would be nice if Lapua would just make .260 brass
</div></div>
it would make my search easier </div></div>
Lapua won't. It would cannibalize on their 6.5x47 round that already competes with the 260 Rem.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sleeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It would be nice if Lapua would just make .260 brass
it would make my search easier </div></div>
Lapua won't. It would cannibalize on their 6.5x47 round that already competes with the 260 Rem.
Re: 260 brass question
When I first got my .260 upper I used Rem brass. Groups were nice on the target at 600yds but my load I was using for XTC 38.5gr of N150 with 123gr was deforming primer pockets after about 2 loads. I tried the brass with N150 and 142's and they were deforming real early. While it shoots nice I think I got a soft batch of brass 3 years ago now.
I necked up Winchester .243 for my 142 load now using H4831SC. Works fine although it's a 1K load so do loose the primers after awhile.
My brother had me neckdown some RA60 brass and it seems to be better. Alot harder and the primer pockets hold alot better with the same load. I've been replacing my Rem brass with my 123 load with my surplus RA60 and it shoots well. For my LR loads I've been using 118LR once fired brass that I neck down. It seems to hold up better than the Win .243 brass.
So looking back on it I think if I had to start over again I'd just use LC, or milsurplus .308 brass that is uniform, neck down, and then turn it. Lapua .308 would probably be just as good, but since I'm swimming in LC .308 brass I've never bought any of it.
When I first got my .260 upper I used Rem brass. Groups were nice on the target at 600yds but my load I was using for XTC 38.5gr of N150 with 123gr was deforming primer pockets after about 2 loads. I tried the brass with N150 and 142's and they were deforming real early. While it shoots nice I think I got a soft batch of brass 3 years ago now.
I necked up Winchester .243 for my 142 load now using H4831SC. Works fine although it's a 1K load so do loose the primers after awhile.
My brother had me neckdown some RA60 brass and it seems to be better. Alot harder and the primer pockets hold alot better with the same load. I've been replacing my Rem brass with my 123 load with my surplus RA60 and it shoots well. For my LR loads I've been using 118LR once fired brass that I neck down. It seems to hold up better than the Win .243 brass.
So looking back on it I think if I had to start over again I'd just use LC, or milsurplus .308 brass that is uniform, neck down, and then turn it. Lapua .308 would probably be just as good, but since I'm swimming in LC .308 brass I've never bought any of it.
Re: 260 brass question
I've been shooting Nosler .260 brass for almost 2 years.....I'm very impressed with it. Highly recommended.
I've been shooting Nosler .260 brass for almost 2 years.....I'm very impressed with it. Highly recommended.
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Will Fennell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been shooting Nosler .260 brass for almost 2 years.....I'm very impressed with it. Highly recommended. </div></div>
Will ,what kind of loads are you using and how many firings are you getting before having to change the brass-any noticeable pocket give after {how many } firings.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Will Fennell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been shooting Nosler .260 brass for almost 2 years.....I'm very impressed with it. Highly recommended. </div></div>
Will ,what kind of loads are you using and how many firings are you getting before having to change the brass-any noticeable pocket give after {how many } firings.
Re: 260 brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Heman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I first got my .260 upper I used Rem brass. Groups were nice on the target at 600yds but my load I was using for XTC 38.5gr of N150 with 123gr was deforming primer pockets after about 2 loads. I tried the brass with N150 and 142's and they were deforming real early. While it shoots nice I think I got a soft batch of brass 3 years ago now.
</div></div>
i use 36.5 gr of n-150 and am still getting loose pockets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Heman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I first got my .260 upper I used Rem brass. Groups were nice on the target at 600yds but my load I was using for XTC 38.5gr of N150 with 123gr was deforming primer pockets after about 2 loads. I tried the brass with N150 and 142's and they were deforming real early. While it shoots nice I think I got a soft batch of brass 3 years ago now.
</div></div>
i use 36.5 gr of n-150 and am still getting loose pockets
