-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
2x4's or steel tube for gong rack?
- Thread starter AK4900PA
- Start date
One problem with wood is that all the splash from the targets ends up embedded in the wood and they are really sharp and jagged. Wood will take more direct impacts than steel in many cases.
I’ve used both. I don’t really prefer one over the other, but if you get the ones that work with pipe, I’d use steel pipe or conduit. The PVC pipe will split or shatter, especially in cold weather, if it’s struck by a round or lead spatter.
Home depot.
About $20 in parts. The cross bar comes out and the 2 ends fold up.
1/2" conduit is cheap.
About $20 in parts. The cross bar comes out and the 2 ends fold up.
1/2" conduit is cheap.
When we head to the range we set up several different targets of all shapes & sizes. Wood & steel both have their pros & cons.
If you’re using wood to put your frames & supports together it can swell a bit at times. I recommend a set of quality leather gloves whenever moving your wood pieces around. Last fall I got a nasty cut on my hand from a large piece of copper jacket stuck in a 2X4 while loading the truck. If & when your wood gets hit it’s cheap & easy to replace.
Steel will also develop jagged edges when hit. T-posts are cheap to replace. Get a T-post driver & a bunch of T-posts. They’ll need replacing from time to time if you’re planting & pulling them each time out.
If you’re using wood to put your frames & supports together it can swell a bit at times. I recommend a set of quality leather gloves whenever moving your wood pieces around. Last fall I got a nasty cut on my hand from a large piece of copper jacket stuck in a 2X4 while loading the truck. If & when your wood gets hit it’s cheap & easy to replace.
Steel will also develop jagged edges when hit. T-posts are cheap to replace. Get a T-post driver & a bunch of T-posts. They’ll need replacing from time to time if you’re planting & pulling them each time out.
I got some cheap brackets on amazon, the bracket arms are thin enough to accept 1/2” emt which holds 66% ipsc sized down just fine, larger you can use 3/4” for the cross bar, and the legs spread apart like a wide saddle horse so no issue there wish splash and if you do hit then you really suck and the target angles forward connected by the chain so it doesn’t hit the top bar.
Edit:
Edit:
Last edited:
Went with the 2x4 brackets. I ordered an assortment of 1/2" AR500 gongs. I think I'm going to build one with 2"/4"/6" gongs for rifle and one with 3"/5"/8" for pistol. I want to take my 7yo shooting, but with his limited attention span shooting paper targets will get boring quickly. This should be easy enough to store in the shed and toss in the truck for range days.
got to love the less expensive dyi solutions they let you get creative and learn nothing like walking or driving out 600 yards setting up your pvp target holder getting back shoot it , on the first shot on the steel target and watching the whole thing fall to the ground in pieces on the first shot yea . liked the metal pipe target stand pics they look way better and more steady than my pvc one.
I am using 2x4’s and cheap prefab folding sawhorse brackets. It works, but the 2x4’s do indeed get shredded so a regular replacement schedule is a given, frequency dictated by how often you’re using it. It’s no big cost either way, might as well just go steel from the start. I think rebar and the bracket/rubber hanger kit from JC is what I’ll get next.
Home depot.
About $20 in parts. The cross bar comes out and the 2 ends fold up.
1/2" conduit is cheap.
I do the exact same thing except I use rebar instead of Conduit. I find it more durable and easier to place on hillsides/odd angles as you can easily pound the rebar into the ground
I’ve got one of these rebar setups & it works really well. I’ve not had any issues w/ it falling over, tipping, etc. I hang a 25% IPSC from mine. I don’t pound the legs into the dirt. I just set it up & forget about it.
It is way easier to haul and set up a bunch of targets with rebar or pipe, 2 or 4x4"s get to be a PIA. Plus, buying tubing to hold either accounts for a good share of the stand material.
The PVC pipe as posted earlier will shatter when hit.
We shoot at 2000 yards so hitting our gong stands is much more common than it is at shorter ranges.
I use steel fenceposts or T posts driven into the ground as my uprights and rebar as my crossbar. I use good wire as a loop for holding the crossbar.
It is actually kind of tough to drill a T post so do it ahead of time.
We have used the pipe ends with black pipe as well.
It all works and it will all get hit directly or with fragmented bullet.
We shoot at 2000 yards so hitting our gong stands is much more common than it is at shorter ranges.
I use steel fenceposts or T posts driven into the ground as my uprights and rebar as my crossbar. I use good wire as a loop for holding the crossbar.
It is actually kind of tough to drill a T post so do it ahead of time.
We have used the pipe ends with black pipe as well.
It all works and it will all get hit directly or with fragmented bullet.
Attachments
I had brought some thinking the same but the conduit was easy to push into the ground.
Conduit is like $3.00 for 10'
If I was going larger like above I could get some rigid pipe.
what ever you decide to use keep a couple of spare parts with you...a broke stand will ruin your day
I have these . just add rebar from home depot . https://laststands.com/product-category/target-stand-kits/
Lol, putting a bullet through the collar with pipe or rebar in it will ruin your takedown too.
I use several different set ups, I’m not really partial to one over the other. One thing is for sure though, whatever you use keep extra parts with you when you go to the range as mentioned above. I also keep a bag of extra nuts and bolts for hanging the actual target, most of that stuff can endure lots of splashes but not very many direct hits if at all
Here is a picture of the back of one of our long-range gongs.
It has two welded on handles because it weighs 118 pounds.
We use Roberts Tactical lights so a stand was welded on to hold the motion detector. We put a foam strip between the motion detector and the steel mount because the vibration will rattle the detector apart.
If you use the velcro light detector T1000 it is a good idea to weld a retaining strap on as well.
The vibration will shake the velcro and dislodge the light after multiple hits.
If you can weld all your hardware to the back of the gong that is a huge plus in my opinion
Bolt heads on the front of the gong will get shot or the bullet splash will cut them off eventually.
So far none of the gong straps has ever been hit but everything else has.
It has two welded on handles because it weighs 118 pounds.
We use Roberts Tactical lights so a stand was welded on to hold the motion detector. We put a foam strip between the motion detector and the steel mount because the vibration will rattle the detector apart.
If you use the velcro light detector T1000 it is a good idea to weld a retaining strap on as well.
The vibration will shake the velcro and dislodge the light after multiple hits.
If you can weld all your hardware to the back of the gong that is a huge plus in my opinion
Bolt heads on the front of the gong will get shot or the bullet splash will cut them off eventually.
So far none of the gong straps has ever been hit but everything else has.
Attachments
My brother uses Conduit. It hasn't lasted as long as my rebar. The rebar takes the random hit better
I made this hangers up for my edge of field/ bordering the woods permanent
target spots.
Stopped by a metal shop, bought some pipe with an internal ID that was
just large enough to slip over a T post
Note.. ( not all T posts are thr same size .. verify before selecting your pipe)
I also purchased some 2x4" square tubing.. 1/4" wall ( inside D of 1.5x3.5")
As pictured, i used small sections of the 2x4 tube, welded to the pipe, with
a pine 2x4 as replaceable cross board.. my intent was to use a longer board
to hold multiple sets of chain hung steel.. the target pictured is a solo target
because the ground is steep at that location.. not conducive to long span (unlevel)
The other target is simply pipe with a bolt through to hold the chain and provide
T post stop.. the washers are there to prevent pipe crush
I used 12" section of pipe, but even 4" pieces would be sufficient to easily
hold.. as the plate weight itself would keep the pipe on the T post.
They work great, and are inexpensive to set up
target spots.
Stopped by a metal shop, bought some pipe with an internal ID that was
just large enough to slip over a T post
Note.. ( not all T posts are thr same size .. verify before selecting your pipe)
I also purchased some 2x4" square tubing.. 1/4" wall ( inside D of 1.5x3.5")
As pictured, i used small sections of the 2x4 tube, welded to the pipe, with
a pine 2x4 as replaceable cross board.. my intent was to use a longer board
to hold multiple sets of chain hung steel.. the target pictured is a solo target
because the ground is steep at that location.. not conducive to long span (unlevel)
The other target is simply pipe with a bolt through to hold the chain and provide
T post stop.. the washers are there to prevent pipe crush
I used 12" section of pipe, but even 4" pieces would be sufficient to easily
hold.. as the plate weight itself would keep the pipe on the T post.
They work great, and are inexpensive to set up
I ended up getting the folding 2x4 brackets. They arrived this morning. Went to Home Depot and got all the chain, bolts, washers, nuts, spring clips. I have some leftover 2x4's in the shed from another project so now I'm just waiting on the plates. I ordered 1/2" AR500 plates in 2", 3", 4", 5", 6" and 8". It's heavier duty than I really need since the most powerful gun I own is a 6.5 creedmoor, but they should last awhile.
Will the 1/2" plates still make a decent "ding" when hit with 22lr or do I need to get a couple 1/4" plates? I only shoot suppressed so I'm hoping they're sufficiently loud to entertain the kid.
Will the 1/2" plates still make a decent "ding" when hit with 22lr or do I need to get a couple 1/4" plates? I only shoot suppressed so I'm hoping they're sufficiently loud to entertain the kid.
The 1/2 will ding, just not move. With rimfire, I would run 1/4.
You guys that get to drive out to your target are lucky. I have to walk mine, so I have to keep it light.
#5 rebar in a sawhorse design and 1.5 MOA plates (4" - 12" plates depending on the ranges I want to set) hung on 3" conveyor belt strap or 3.5" fire hose. 1/2" on the 6" and under, 3/8 on all the rest.
3 targets is abut the max I want to schlep out to 800 - the max range I can get.
I need to find a guy who knows a guy with property.
You guys that get to drive out to your target are lucky. I have to walk mine, so I have to keep it light.
#5 rebar in a sawhorse design and 1.5 MOA plates (4" - 12" plates depending on the ranges I want to set) hung on 3" conveyor belt strap or 3.5" fire hose. 1/2" on the 6" and under, 3/8 on all the rest.
3 targets is abut the max I want to schlep out to 800 - the max range I can get.
I need to find a guy who knows a guy with property.
I have a hard time seeing how something like this isn't the best option..... JC Steel Target Stand Kit
rebar is cheap and when everything is collapsed it's a pretty small footprint. the 2x4's I'm using now take up a lot of room in the bed of my truck when traveling, plus all the splinters as mentioned earlier. the conveyor belt strips seem like the best solution for hanging targets too.
rebar is cheap and when everything is collapsed it's a pretty small footprint. the 2x4's I'm using now take up a lot of room in the bed of my truck when traveling, plus all the splinters as mentioned earlier. the conveyor belt strips seem like the best solution for hanging targets too.
T posts 2”x2” angle and conveyor belt
The t post stay where I shoot their only about $3 bucks each...a 20’ stick of 2x2 angle about $30 bucks...conveyor belt cost me a 12 pak for 40pcs...nuts and bolts $20 bucks or so...I have at least 20 of these so they end up about $20ish each set minus the steel
The t post stay where I shoot their only about $3 bucks each...a 20’ stick of 2x2 angle about $30 bucks...conveyor belt cost me a 12 pak for 40pcs...nuts and bolts $20 bucks or so...I have at least 20 of these so they end up about $20ish each set minus the steel
Attachments
By far the best hangers I’ve tried, and I’ve ran quite a few combinations. I can set up 2-4 targets per T post with these, and they’re made out of AR500. They’ve taken quite a few direct impacts without any damage. As far as target setting I’ve got a UTV I can get to almost anywhere I need to set them with. Worst case scenario I have to hump them 100-200 yds. Luckily a T post and driver isn’t very heavy for short hikes. The target is usually the heaviest depending on what size were running.
Attachments
those hangers work well but what i didnt like was that my T posts ended up getting shot and would break...it still happens with my newer hangers but no where near as often
I haven’t ran into that issue yet. Most of my shooting is beyond 1000, and usually with a 6 CM. I’m guessing I just don’t have enough velocity left to damage the t post.
I am currently using these target hangers for 2x4
mgmtargets.com
I have been thinking about switching to these at some point, rebar hangers. Like some pointed out i sliced my hand a couple times on the copper jackets that were stuck in the 2x4’s
mgmtargets.com
Sportsman 2X4 Leg Brackets (Set of Two) - MGM Targets
The Sportsman 2X4 Leg Brackets are that same leg brackets used in our Sportsman Steel Challenge Plate Rack! Now sold as a set to be used with your MGM Gong!
mgmtargets.com
I have been thinking about switching to these at some point, rebar hangers. Like some pointed out i sliced my hand a couple times on the copper jackets that were stuck in the 2x4’s
Steel Rebar Leg Bracket set - MGM Targets
The Steel Rebar Leg Bracket set is the perfect solution for an affordable and stable target set no matter what you're shooting at it.
mgmtargets.com
I use a bunch of different set ups. My input is based on the fact that we move our range locations all the time. Even if we shoot in the same area the plates are seldom in the same exact location. Usually we have 4-8 target distances set at the same time. I also want it easy for 1 person to set the targets.
T-post are my favorite for speed of setup in most locations -not all. They only cost a couple bucks more than a 4x4. But anytime you drive them in to deep they can become almost permanent. In hard rock areas you need “stands”.
With single T-posts you have two basic off the shelf attachment types; semi-ridge and reactive. Both have their place. With reactive targets, you “need” semi-rigid, but for the most part I prefer reactive mounts.
1- Non-reactive, the standard attachments like Jake’s V at JC Steel, are fast and do not use a chain. See the first few min of the video below with the reactive 45%, I think the flapper is 6" but the target must remain relatively level for it to work.
bracket link: http://www.jcsteeltargets.com
2- Reactive Hangers like Hangfast. These allow the targets to move when hit and will ring much loader, the angle makes for better frag signature as well as let’s the plates take a much higher caliber hit, closer without damage and lastly the plates move more, so it is easier to see when far away.. These easily hold my 24” AR500 1/4” plate. Scrub, thru the video below to see how much a full sized plate moves compared to a rigid mount even when closer and much smaller. The left image, right target is a 24" plate easily controlled by the hangfast setup
bracket link: https://hangfasttargets.com
This video shows both types of hangers in 1 and 2. The first is a small 45% at 400y, up close. You can see why you want to control the angle of the target so that the reactive of the target works well. Fast forward a bit and the next is at 900 more than 2x the distance and a heavy full sized silhouette. Both are being shot by a small 123gr projectile, one target directly after the other.
NOTE HOW THE STUPID Robert’s TARGET LIGHT IS - 2 flashes then it is NOT RECHARGING!! Those things are so problematic - get the Magnetospeed if you need lights ~ used in matches all over - they recharge fast and work... just say’n.
Light Link: https://magnetospeed.com/collections/target-hit-indicator
For hard ground or I use the same mounts shown in @Lynn Jr ‘s middle image, with the red target brackets is actually in So cal used by Oscar. He asked me about how mine were holding when they first started the URSA. They where in service years before and are still going strong. These are nice because they are solid and use 3/4” ridged pipe. Again, I use lighter 1/4” AR500 for even the bigger guns @ 2000+. Same idea as #2, I want the most reactive plate so yes I use high quality chain. This lets the plate ring so that if the wind is blowing at you you can actually hear the plate with electronic ear pro well over a mile away. Below you can see it reacts well even at ELR distances.
bracket link: http://www.gongshot.com/target-stand-target-bracket/
FWIW I’ve used the rebar hangers and with the 24” plates even the light AR500, I’ve had the legs bend and collapse.
As a general rule for longer distance targets, if hearing the “impact” or getting a better visual of frag signatures or even getting a tiny movement of a plate is key to you, harder, thinner and more reactive hung targets are key. I am not saying a particular brand of hangers are the best, trying to give feedback on the "type" of hanger system you might want to consider --
There is no one right solution as we can see from the thread. Like a lot in here, I have seen all kinds of hanging systems traveling to matches including targets sitting on the dirt and leaning solidly up against a support (BTW that the worst ever)... truth be told, my favorite target hangers are the ones bought, stored and hung by someone else
Anyway that’s my take - it all depends on what you are doing and what you like.
T-post are my favorite for speed of setup in most locations -not all. They only cost a couple bucks more than a 4x4. But anytime you drive them in to deep they can become almost permanent. In hard rock areas you need “stands”.
With single T-posts you have two basic off the shelf attachment types; semi-ridge and reactive. Both have their place. With reactive targets, you “need” semi-rigid, but for the most part I prefer reactive mounts.
1- Non-reactive, the standard attachments like Jake’s V at JC Steel, are fast and do not use a chain. See the first few min of the video below with the reactive 45%, I think the flapper is 6" but the target must remain relatively level for it to work.
bracket link: http://www.jcsteeltargets.com
2- Reactive Hangers like Hangfast. These allow the targets to move when hit and will ring much loader, the angle makes for better frag signature as well as let’s the plates take a much higher caliber hit, closer without damage and lastly the plates move more, so it is easier to see when far away.. These easily hold my 24” AR500 1/4” plate. Scrub, thru the video below to see how much a full sized plate moves compared to a rigid mount even when closer and much smaller. The left image, right target is a 24" plate easily controlled by the hangfast setup
bracket link: https://hangfasttargets.com
This video shows both types of hangers in 1 and 2. The first is a small 45% at 400y, up close. You can see why you want to control the angle of the target so that the reactive of the target works well. Fast forward a bit and the next is at 900 more than 2x the distance and a heavy full sized silhouette. Both are being shot by a small 123gr projectile, one target directly after the other.
NOTE HOW THE STUPID Robert’s TARGET LIGHT IS - 2 flashes then it is NOT RECHARGING!! Those things are so problematic - get the Magnetospeed if you need lights ~ used in matches all over - they recharge fast and work... just say’n.
Light Link: https://magnetospeed.com/collections/target-hit-indicator
For hard ground or I use the same mounts shown in @Lynn Jr ‘s middle image, with the red target brackets is actually in So cal used by Oscar. He asked me about how mine were holding when they first started the URSA. They where in service years before and are still going strong. These are nice because they are solid and use 3/4” ridged pipe. Again, I use lighter 1/4” AR500 for even the bigger guns @ 2000+. Same idea as #2, I want the most reactive plate so yes I use high quality chain. This lets the plate ring so that if the wind is blowing at you you can actually hear the plate with electronic ear pro well over a mile away. Below you can see it reacts well even at ELR distances.
bracket link: http://www.gongshot.com/target-stand-target-bracket/
FWIW I’ve used the rebar hangers and with the 24” plates even the light AR500, I’ve had the legs bend and collapse.
As a general rule for longer distance targets, if hearing the “impact” or getting a better visual of frag signatures or even getting a tiny movement of a plate is key to you, harder, thinner and more reactive hung targets are key. I am not saying a particular brand of hangers are the best, trying to give feedback on the "type" of hanger system you might want to consider --
There is no one right solution as we can see from the thread. Like a lot in here, I have seen all kinds of hanging systems traveling to matches including targets sitting on the dirt and leaning solidly up against a support (BTW that the worst ever)... truth be told, my favorite target hangers are the ones bought, stored and hung by someone else
Anyway that’s my take - it all depends on what you are doing and what you like.
Last edited:
Thats the idea. Chain can get broke off with one perfectly bad shot, the rubber can absorb many more before getting cut off.
At most matches use fire hose, conveyor belting etc.. for just the reason you mentioned or but most targets are close enough and small enough like a 6" diamond at 400 or ipsc silhouette at 1000+; so they tend to be light enough to react.
I use chain protected behind the target with the Hangfast or hardened chain for ELR without incidence. Again, because they help the targets really ring and move freely. ELR for instance, a High BC bullet like a Warner FL 338 has only a hair < 1/6th it's energy left by 2k, so the hardened chains hold up well even if exposed.
If you guys are hanging targets and have an industrial bolt or tractor supply/dealer in your area you use plow bolts. 1/2 plow bolts are fairly inexpensive and the head is as hard as the AR500 plate. No more shot out carriage bolts. I have friends who only load chain and bolt seeking bullets... I use a jam nut and belting loop about 4" wide, 2 tee posts and simply hang the belt on the post by the loop. the sharp edges on the end of the post keep it on by friction pretty well through the worst of our AZ T- storms. If that helps.
Got everything set up yesterday and took my 7yo old this morning to shoot for the first time ever. He had a blast.
I have those from shooting targets 7 too. They work well. I also have stuff from: MKmachining https://mkmachining.com/product-category/ar500-targets-mounts/ Hangfast: https://hangfasttargets.com/ and shootsteel: https://www.shootsteel.com/
