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300 rum reloading

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Minuteman
Feb 24, 2013
31
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I just acquired a 300 rum and would like to reload for it. Would like to be able to mess with loads, and maybe save a little money. But from what im calculating i will be using 180$ worth of retumbo for only 40 rounds, and factoring in bullets, brass, etc. this is going to be wayyy more expensive than just buying the ammo. I want to reload, but if it is going to be twice the price of factory then I am very hesitant. Am i correct in what I am thinking? Thanks
 
Incorrect!
$180 worth of retumbo? Assuming that is 8# of Retumbo, and the actual grains used per round you'll be getting approx 80 rounds per pound.
Finding the components will be a big concern.
Secondly, without sounding like a A** your question leads me to believe you should spend some time reviewing actual reloading techniques and requirements before jumping in, so that you at least have a thorough understanding. Perhaps look for a local reloader to advise or help you. This forum will allow you to read read and read about the how too's. Good luck!
 
Yeah I would be hesitant to start reloading with this cartridge. 92 grains is a lot of pow pow . I've been reloading 20 years and was pretty nervous when I recently started reloading 375CT. BEFORE THAT 300 RUM was my biggest cartridge
 
If you do your job, you can expect this. 91 grains loaded to the lands in a match chamber is my max, and where it shoots best.

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I have been reloading 300 Remington Ultra Magnum since 2002. I have a Mcmillan built rifle and I use 92 grains of Reloader 25 with 180 and 208 grain projectiles. I would start there if you want to use a different powder than Retumbo. I use Retumbo for 375 Cheytac. Good luck.
 
Something else to consider after looking above....START AT MINUMUM LOADS and work up from there. I currently have a RUM that hits serious pressure barely oveer min. loads and eats brass like candy if you try to get to max loads....granted it's a tight chamber tight bore Hart rifle... Also, don't bother going light on the bullet wt., the whole point of burning around 90gr. of powder is to push BIG HEAVY bullets FAST!
 
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Huge advantages with loading 300Rum as there are so many good 30cal pills out there. I had best luck when using standard length bottom metal going with 89.5gr of H1000 & 210 VLDs. The problems I have run into with it is that brass is tough to find at times. This round is really awesome with Seekins bottom metal and the bullet run out on top of Retumbo!
 
I have been loading for the 7mm, 300 and 338 RUMs since 2001, and have a few safety tips for you. Number one, always start your loading at published minimums, but not below them. Cartridges this big have a tendency to detonate if loaded with too light a charge due to too much empty space in the case. To go along with that, I never like to use a powder that has less than about an 85-90% load density, and prefer around 95% load density on these cartridges. Second, when adjusting seating depth, approach the lands with caution. These rounds, like the Weatherby's, were designed to operate with a lot of freebore to achieve higher velocities and avoid pressure spikes. Max OAL as listed by SAAMI for the 300 is 3.60". The longest you will be able to load these rounds and function through a factory magazine is right around 3.66-3.68.